Turf Care Supply - TurfReport Blog

Turf Care Supply, LLC is excited to join the Spring Valley USA team, an affiliate of Interoceanic Corporation (IOC), strengthening our organization and enhancing our ability to serve our customers.

Fri, 30 Jan 2026 15:15:16 GMT

White Plains, NY – January 30, 2026 – Interoceanic Corporation (“IOC”) announced today that its affiliate Spring Valley USA (Spring Valley) , has acquired the blending and packaging assets and business of Turf Care Supply, LLC, a leading manufacturer and blender of turf and ornamental fertilizers as well as ice melt. The combination of Spring Valley and Turf Care Supply’s blending business, forms one of the largest independent lawn and garden fertilizer platforms in North America. The integrated business will have approximately 250 employees and will operate eight manufacturing and blending facilities across seven states, enabling coast-to-coast coverage of customers. By uniting two highly complementary companies, this acquisition creates a world-class turf & ornamental supply company positioned to deliver enhanced value to both professional and retail customers.

“This acquisition is a transformative step for our organization,” said Elio Mazzella , President of IOC and Spring Valley. “By bringing Turf Care Supply into the IOC family, we are significantly expanding our reach and capabilities in serving the lawn and garden industry. The combined company will have an unrivaled production footprint and product portfolio, which means we can offer our customers faster service, greater efficiency, and innovative solutions on a national scale. Our goal is to build a world-class platform that blends the strengths of both businesses – the supply chain efficiencies of the combined business and the family-business values – will drive growth for our customers and vendor partners.”

With the closing of the transaction, Turf Care Supply, LLC will be renamed Allied Nutrients and continue to manufacture leading enhanced efficiency fertilizers (“EEF”) out of its Martins Ferry, Ohio facility. Mark Mangan, President of Allied Nutrients, commented, “we want to thank our long-time employees that will be joining the IOC family and wish them well. We have known the IOC team for many years and believe this will be a great home. At the same time, we are excited for our remaining employees as we focus our resources and efforts on providing the best EEF solutions to the turf and ornamental market.”

With this acquisition, the combined company now operates manufacturing facilities in Wisconsin, Ohio, Texas, Florida, Massachusetts, Tennessee, and Oklahoma, giving it the ability to blend and package fertilizer products and ice melt closer to customers in every major region. Turf Care Supply’s sites in Hatfield (MA), Sebring (FL), Cleveland (TN), and Catoosa (OK) will join Spring Valley’s existing plants in Jackson (WI), Fostoria (OH), Greenville (TX), and Longwood (FL). This expanded footprint significantly reduces transit times and enhances supply reliability for our customers. Maintaining strong customer relationships during and after the integration is a top priority. “All of our customers will continue to receive the outstanding service and product quality they expect, now with the added benefit of a truly national production network,” Mazzella added. Each major customer will be supported by an expanded team dedicated to ensuring a seamless transition and ongoing success.

Strategically, the merger of Spring Valley and Turf Care Supply unlocks significant commercial synergies that will benefit both our customers and vendor partners. Together, the company will offer the most comprehensive product portfolio in the industry. “This combination is about building a platform that is perfectly suited to support our customers growth,” said Mazzella. “By combining our R&D and product development efforts, we intend to bring new, high-value solutions to market that neither company could have achieved alone.”

The integration of the two businesses is already underway, with a focus on maintaining operational continuity and exceptional customer service throughout the spring season. The company also emphasized that all Turf Care Supply employees are being welcomed into the organization, and that the combined workforce will play a crucial role in driving the business forward. “This is an exciting moment for all of us. By uniting two great teams, we’re creating a stronger company with a shared commitment to our customers’ and vendors success, ” Mazzella noted.

About Interoceanic Corporation (IOC): Based in White Plains, NY, IOC is a diversified family-owned company specializing in the production, marketing, and distribution of fertilizer and industrial chemical products. Other notable affiliates of IOC are PCI Nitrogen, Columbia River Nitrogen and EM² Enterprises. With this transaction, the group of businesses consist of over 600 employees. IOC’s family values, entrepreneurial spirit, and supply chain expertise have driven its growth from a regional fertilizer distributor into an international platform that provides reliable, high-quality products.

About Allied Nutrients: Based in Brunswick, OH, Allied Nutrients specializes in providing enhanced efficiency fertilizers that support turfgrass and ornamental plant health. Through world-class manufacturing and research and development, the company offers a comprehensive portfolio of products, including SCU, PCU, PCSCU, reacted slow-release nitrogen, and urease inhibitors. These solutions are marketed under leading brands, such as XCU, TTRU, UFLEXX, UMAXX, Nutralene, and Nitroform.

We are excited to share that Spring Valley USA, an affiliate of Interoceanic Corporation (IOC) has acquired the blending and packaging assets of Turf Care Supply, LLC. This exciting union brings together two industry leaders and their outstanding teams to form one of the largest independent lawn and garden fertilizer platforms in North America. This transformative step strengthens our people, expands our coast-to-coast reach, and empowers us to deliver even greater innovation, value, and service to our customers and partners. Read the full press release below.

The Hidden Cost of Filler: How to Maximize ROI with Zero-Filler Fertilizers

Thu, 22 Jan 2026 13:00:03 GMT

Many granular fertilizer blends contain at least some filler. A filler is any raw material that doesn’t carry any nutrient or soil amending value. In most cases, screened limestone is used as filler due to its relatively low cost. Filler is typically used to keep the unit price of a fertilizer down while also helping to spread low analysis blends more evenly across an application area, however a simple cost-analysis reveals that filler is not your friend when it comes to providing ROI or agronomic value.

If you typically use fertilizers that contain a lot of filler, consider switching to zero filler blends. Why? Zero-filler blends (or full-blends) max out their analysis by using more nutrients, soil amendments, or both. Zero-filler blends ensure that every component in the blend brings value and increased performance to your lawn and landscape applications. It also increases ROI on material cost and labor. If your blends contain filler, try these 3 ingredient alternatives: 1. Increase your nitrogen analysis by adding a higher % of enhanced efficiency fertilizers such as slow or controlled release urea, or stabilized nitrogen products. 2. Consider adding a micro-pack. Micronutrients are a great way to help turf and ornamental plants avoid deficiencies and can help make your plants more vibrant, especially in summer when abiotic stresses can take their toll. 3. Consider swapping out limestone filler for other soil amendments such as gypsum, calcitic lime, humic or biochar. 4. Replace filler with organic material like compost or manures that can often add both a nutrient value and soil amending benefit. In addition, many of these filler alternatives create a 2-in-1 product that can provide a dual revenue source or operational efficiency to the applicator.

Unfortunately, many buyers focus on the cost per bag rather than the overall value of the fertilizer blend. While zero-filler products may carry a slightly higher price tag per bag, they typically contain more nutrients—especially nitrogen—resulting in a lower cost per unit of nutrient applied. This means fewer bags are needed to achieve the same agronomic outcome, reducing total application costs. The same principle applies to liquid fertilizers: low-analysis liquids may seem less expensive, but you’re often paying a premium for water, which acts as the filler in liquid formulations.

To maximize your ROI on material cost and labor, reach out to your Turf Care Supply Sales Representative to learn more about the ZERO filler products available at Turf Care Supply.

For green industry professionals, or others, interested in ordering Turf Care Supply products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Turf Care and Beaty Fertilizer Unite for Growth, Innovation, and Increased Value to Customers

Fri, 18 Apr 2025 19:15:00 GMT

Turf Care Supply, LLC, a portfolio company of Platte River Equity, has officially acquired Beaty Fertilizer, the industry respected Tennessee-based manufacturer and blender of custom granular and liquid fertilizers, as well as combination products. This strategic move expands Turf Care’s manufacturing footprint, adds new product capabilities, and enhances overall production capacity.

“The partnership with Beaty Fertilizer marks a major milestone in our journey and an important step forward in our mission to grow, innovate and lead in our industry,” said Mark Mangan, President of Turf Care. “This acquisition is more than just expansion; it’s a powerful opportunity to strengthen our product offerings, broaden our market reach and provide greater value to our customers. By welcoming Beaty into the Turf Care family, we are reinforcing our commitment to excellence and positioning ourselves for an even brighter future.”

“We are excited about this next step in the Beaty Fertilizer story. For almost 50 years, our family and our employees have worked hard to serve customers and communities with pride and heart,” said John Beaty, President of Beaty. “Now, we are embracing an opportunity for growth with Turf Care. With our combined know-how and resources, we’ll keep building on what we’ve worked so hard to create and bring even more value to our customers, employees and partners. We truly believe this partnership will keep the Beaty legacy going strong while opening up new doors for growth and innovation.”

Tarun Kanthety, Vice President at Platte River, added, “We believe the acquisition of Beaty Fertilizer represents a strategic step in expanding Turf Care’s footprint and product breadth... as it scales and enhances its value proposition to customers.”

Grub Management: Understanding Life Cycles and Optimal Treatment Timing

Fri, 18 Apr 2025 19:06:00 GMT

Root out Grubs, Before they Attack Yours!

White grubs, the immature stage of several scarab beetles—including Japanese beetles, masked chafers, May and June beetles, and green June beetles—are a major threat to turfgrass across the Southeast. These beetles follow a complete metamorphosis (egg, grub, pupa, adult), with most species completing their cycle in one year. Eggs are laid in early summer, grubs hatch within two weeks, and begin feeding on turfgrass roots through the late summer and fall. May and June beetles differ slightly, with a two- to three-year life cycle and prolonged feeding as third-instar grubs.

Grubs damage turf by severing roots, causing grass to yellow, wilt, or lift easily from the soil. Feeding is typically concentrated in patches and worsens during hot, dry weather. Wildlife digging for grubs can create further turf destruction. Healthy turf may tolerate 5–10 grubs per square foot, but damage becomes evident as populations rise or turf is under stress. Early detection and timing are essential.

Scouting begins in late June, shortly after adult beetle activity peaks. Monitoring plants favored by beetles can signal egg-laying is underway. Treatment is most effective when small grubs are active—typically from mid-July through early August.

For professional turfgrass managers, insecticides containing imidacloprid (Merit®), chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn®), or trichlorfon (Dylox®) are the most effective tools. The primary months of preventative application of Acelepryn® is from April to end of May and Merit® from April into July - targeting grubs before they hatch. Curative treatments with Dylox® or similar products are applied July through the fall, when young grubs are feeding and most vulnerable. Always follow label directions for optimal application and safety. Timing may vary slightly by regional seasonal needs.

Turf Care Supply has a variety of professional TCS Growstar insecticide fertilizers available to protect your turf and prevent grub damage, before it starts. Click on the button below to view products, contact your sales rep for additional TCS Growstar products available.

Platte River Equity - Press Release: Turf Care Supply, LLC Acquires Agri-Nutrients, Inc.

Wed, 09 Oct 2024 13:20:00 GMT

Platte River Equity Portfolio Company Turf Care Supply, LLC Acquires Agri-Nutrients, Inc.

Brunswick, OH , October 9, 2024 – Platte River Equity (“Platte River”) portfolio company Turf Care Supply, LLC (“Turf Care”) is pleased to announce its acquisition of Agri-Nutrients, Inc. (“Agri-Nutrients”), a manufacturer and blender of custom granular fertilizers for the turf & ornamental (“T&O”) industry. This strategic acquisition provides Turf Care with an established presence in the south-central United States, an enhanced product portfolio and additional manufacturing capacity.

“This acquisition represents much more than a business transaction; it is a strategic step forward in expanding our reach and enhancing our customers’ growth. By bringing Agri-Nutrients into the Turf Care family, we are broadening our product portfolio, expanding our market presence and further positioning ourselves as a leader in providing innovative solutions for our customers,” said Mark Mangan, President of Turf Care.

“We are excited about joining the Turf Care team,” said Jim Montgomery, President of Agri-Nutrients. “At Agri-Nutrients, our core values center around customer service and product innovation, and we are confident that this combination will allow us to better serve the needs of our customers.”

“Platte River welcomes the Agri-Nutrients team to Turf Care. This transaction underscores our long-term commitment to fostering growth through both organic and inorganic initiatives across the Turf Care platform,” said Tarun Kanthety, Vice President of Platte River. “The partnership with Agri-Nutrients strengthens Turf Care’s value-added offering, creating additional growth opportunities across the combined customer base.”

B&A Corporate Advisors served as the exclusive financial advisor to Agri-Nutrients.

About Agri-Nutrients

Founded in 1992 and based in Catoosa, OK, Agri-Nutrients is a manufacturer and blender of custom granular fertilizers for the T&O industry, predominantly selling into the lawn care, sports turf and golf course end markets.

About Turf Care Supply

Established in 1974, Turf Care Supply is one of the largest formulators and blenders of urea products to the T&O market. Turf Care has a comprehensive product portfolio of fertilizers, combination products (herbicide/insecticide), soil amendments and enhanced efficiency fertilizer ingredients. Turf Care's products are sold to distributors and blenders serving the commercial, residential and golf end markets. Turf Care operates four manufacturing facilities strategically located throughout the eastern U.S.

About Platte River Equity

Founded in 2006 and based in Denver, CO, Platte River Equity is a private equity firm focused on investments in established lower middle market operating companies within targeted industrial sectors where it has substantial operating and investing experience. Platte River utilizes prudent capital structures in order to invest in future growth opportunities and withstand changing economic environments. The firm also provides significant ongoing support to its portfolio companies through dedicated resources across functional areas.

The firm has raised funds with committed capital in excess of $1.6 billion and is currently investing out of its fifth fund. The Platte River team is the largest collective investor across its funds, deeply aligning the firm with its investors and portfolio company management teams.

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply, LLC Acquires Agri-Nutrients, Inc.

Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:41:00 GMT

Dear Valued Industry Partners and Customers,

We are pleased to announce that Turf Care Supply, LLC has acquired Agri-Nutrients, Inc. (October 1, 2024) a respected manufacturer in the turf and ornamental fertilizer industry. This acquisition marks a significant step forward in our commitment to providing you with an expanded range of innovative products, services, and industry expertise, all designed to support your business’s continued growth and success.

As a valued partner or customer, you will benefit from enhanced service capabilities and an extended geographic reach, thanks to Agri-Nutrients, Inc.’s strategic facility located in the Port of Catoosa, Oklahoma. With this established presence in the Southwest and Western markets, Turf Care Supply, LLC’s expanded operational footprint will allow us to serve a broader region with greater efficiency, delivering even stronger support to help drive your business forward.

We are dedicated to ensuring a seamless transition while maintaining the high standards of service you expect. If you have any questions or would like to explore how this new location can enhance your operations, please feel free to contact your account manager or our customer service team.

Thank you for your continued trust in Turf Care Supply, LLC . We look forward to partnering with you as we grow together and continue supporting your success.

Sincerely,
Mark ManganPresidentTurf Care Supply, LLC

Turf Care Supply Goes Electric

Thu, 28 Sep 2023 18:59:00 GMT

With a focus on providing sustainable manufacturing and reducing carbon emissions, Turf Care Supply has embraced the electric power market with the latest mobile equipment upgrades. Completed in June 2023, TCS received all deliveries of electric forklifts to all three manufacturing facilities, including Hatfield, MA, Martins Ferry, OH and Sebring, FL.

Even though electric powered equipment is not new to the industry, technological advances have made them more accessible and manageable to manufacturing facilities. Including, great improvements when it comes to the task of maintaining and operating electric equipment. The equipment charging is opportunity based, allowing support to multiple production shifts per day. With the increasing cost of fuel, reducing the amount of labor costs to maintain electric equipment (compared to internal combustion equipment) and a reduced CO2 footprint creates a good economical and sustainable solution.

At Turf Care Supply, electric forklifts now make up 75% of the total fleet. The team quickly noticed another added feature, the electric forklifts made significantly less noise, which can be beneficial to the operator. However, the louder forklifts did help identify where the equipment was even if not visible, like when they are in a row picking pallets. So, the crew members now rely more on the blue safety floor lights that TCS has always assured were on the forklifts to identify the advance of the equipment’s directional movement.

Additionally, it is much easier and safer to plug in an electrical unit to charge than to change a propane tank. Even though the team experienced a slight learning curve in the beginning, after training and equipment classes, it did not take long before the team was back to efficient operations.

Turf Care Supply will continue to focus on sustainable and efficient updates to best support our environment, our employees, and the needs of our very valued customers.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit Turf Care’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turf Care products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Tips for Safely Handling, Mixing and Storing Fertilizers & Pesticides

Wed, 19 Jul 2023 21:05:00 GMT

When handling fertilizers and pesticide it is important to follow suggested guidelines and prioritize safety to protect yourself, others, and reduce environmental impact. Here are some general measures to follow:

1. Read and Follow Instructions:

Carefully read and understand the product labels, safety data sheets (SDS), and any accompanying instructions provided by the manufacturer. Follow all recommended guidelines, precautions, and application rates.

2. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

Wear appropriate PPE as specified on the product labels and SDS. This may include gloves, goggles or face shield, respirator, long-sleeved clothing, and closed-toe shoes to protect against potential exposure.

3. Mixing and Dilution:

When preparing or diluting products, always follow the recommended mixing instructions. Add the product to water rather than vice versa to prevent excessive splashing or releases of dust or vapors. Mix in well-ventilated areas or use mechanical mixing systems, if available.

4. Avoid Contamination:

Prevent cross-contamination of products by using separate equipment and containers for different chemicals. Clean and rinse equipment thoroughly after each use to avoid unintended chemical reactions or adverse effects.

5. Storage:

Store fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides in their original containers with tightly closed lids in a cool, dry, and secure area. Keep them away from children, pets, food, and feed products. Follow local regulations for storage and disposal.

6. Spills and Leaks:

In case of spills or leaks, contain the material and prevent it from spreading. Use appropriate absorbent materials to clean up small spills. For large spills or emergencies, follow the procedures outlined in the SDS and contact the relevant authorities.

7. Handling and Application:

Follow proper handling techniques when applying fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides. Avoid direct contact with the product and minimize drift or overspray onto non-target areas. Take precautions to protect water bodies, sensitive ecosystems, and neighboring properties.

8. Disposal:

Dispose of empty containers, unused product, and waste materials following local regulations. Do not burn or dispose of them in water sources, drainage systems, or household waste.

9. Emergency Preparedness:

Be familiar with emergency procedures, including first aid measures, in case of accidental exposure or injury. Keep emergency contact numbers readily available.

10. Training and Education:

Stay updated on safe handling practices through training and education programs related to the specific products you are working with. This will help you understand the potential hazards and appropriate safety measures.

Remember, the specific handling measures may vary depending on the type and formulation of the product. Always refer to the product labels and SDS for detailed instructions and consult with local disposal facilities or experts for specific guidance in your region.

For professional fertilizers, control fertilizers with insecticide or herbicide, and soil amendments , please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Don’t Get ‘Burned’ by Poor Fertilizer Application Timing This Summer

Thu, 22 Jun 2023 15:29:00 GMT

Introduction

It’s common knowledge that applying too much fertilizer containing high percentages of readily available nitrogen and water soluble nutrients can result in burn damage to plants, but did you know that damage can still occur even if your application rate is correct? Applying the right product at the right rate, but at the WRONG time can have disastrous consequences. Now that summer has arrived, soaring temperatures and mild to severe drought conditions are on everyone’s mind . Situational awareness of your climate, current weather conditions, and region’s extended forecast, coupled with a little chemistry knowledge regarding the nature of ‘fertilizer salts’ will give your turf and ornamentals the best possible chance of flourishing during the summer months!

Turf experiencing drought stress.

What are ‘fertilizer salts’ and how do they affect plants?

Most of the raw materials found in a balanced fertilizer blend exist in salt form. A salt is an ionic compound, which means it is comprised of smaller molecules with different charges. If you remember your days of high school chemistry, opposites attract, so cations (ions with a positive charge) will bond to anions (ions with a negative charge). If the charges are equal on both sides, they will cancel each other out to form a stable compound. For example, muriate of potash, otherwise known as potassium chloride, has the formula KCl. K ⁺ has a charge of +1 and Cl ^- has a charge of -1. Since the charges are equal and opposite, the final product is a stable salt that is commonly used as a fertilizing compound.
One of the properties of many salts is their ability to be dissolved in water. This property is critical for plant nutrient uptake. However, many salts are also hygroscopic, which means they readily absorb and hold water in their dry forms. In biology, salts can draw water out of cells. The more salt there is in the vicinity of water, the stronger the pull. In the presence of excessive fertilizer salts, severe plant cell damage and death can occur. We commonly refer to this as ‘plant burn.’ This is the same burn that happens when fertilizer blends containing 100% readily available nutrients are overapplied.

Plant burn due to over-applied fertilizer with 100% readily available nutrients.

Image Source: TheSpruce/ K. Dave

As a side note, many liquid fertilizer ingredients, as well as countless pesticide active ingredients also exist in salt form, and they too can cause the same kind of plant burn damage when misapplied.

What ingredients in a fertilizer blend are considered salts?

Again, many of the most common ingredients in fertilizer blends exist as salts. These include:

All macro, secondary, and micronutrient sulfates
Phosphates
Nitrates
Chlorides (i.e. ammonium nitrate, calcium sulfate, diammonium phosphate, etc )

Of note, urea is not considered a salt because it does not readily disassociate into cations and anions in solution, however urea can still damage plant cells because it is extremely hygroscopic.

What environmental conditions increase the risk of plant burn?

Prolonged heat and drought can create environments where fertilizer salts can be particularly damaging. In general, the higher the concentration of fertilizer salts dissolved in water, the greater the burn hazard to both above and below ground tissues. Above the ground, high concentrations of fertilizer salts that contact foliar tissues can lead to yellowing, browning, curling, and necrosis (this is true of both granular and liquid fertilizers). Below the ground, when soils dry out, reconstituted salts tend to concentrate in pockets. When roots encounter these pockets, the high concentration of salts in these pockets can damage localized root tissue and be transported through the roots and the vascular system to other plant tissues, causing additional damage along the way. When soils remain moist and plants are well hydrated, fertilizer salts pose no threat when applied at the correct rate using proper application practices.

How to Avoid Fertilizer Salt Burn

Summer Application Tips:

Read the entire fertilizer label and pay special attention to the application instructions section.
Delay applications of fertilizers containing high percentages of salts and 100% readily available nutrients under extreme heat and drought conditions.
Do not apply fertilizer to cool season grasses that have gone dormant under extreme heat and drought conditions. Wait for temperatures to cool and regular rain to return to the forecast.
Only apply fertilizer to treatment areas that can be readily irrigated. For treatment areas dependent on natural irrigation, ensure a moderate rain event is likely within 48-72 hours of application.
Use products with higher percentages of coated controlled release nutrients (i.e. polymer or sulfur coated products). The coatings around these granules will help shield sensitive plant tissues from the hydroscopic nutrient cores.
Use products supplemented in part or in whole with nutrients complexed with organic (carbon-based) sources to reduce exposure to fertilizer salts during times of extreme abiotic stress. Examples include biosolids, composts, and various ‘meals’ (i.e. feather meal, soybean meal, etc).
Incorporate specialty biologically-derived products such as humic substances, kelp extracts, and microbial metabolites in conjunction with a moderate reduction (10-20%) in the application rate of 100% readily available nutrients. These technologies are non-burning and gentler on plants during times of extreme abiotic stress and can assist with stress tolerance and recovery.

For biologicals or fertilizers enhanced with biologicals including humic and AMP-XC™ products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Photos:

https://www.thespruce.com/what-are-dead-spots-on-lawn-2152737

How To Protect and Restore your Turfgrass from Summer Stress

Mon, 01 Aug 2022 12:34:00 GMT

Introduction

When summer temperatures rise and drought conditions set in, turf quality can suffer, even in healthy turf. Turf that was green and lush during the spring can be at risk for turning brown and going dormant during the summer months. This can lead to insect and weed infestations as well as other diseases that can result in additional turf damage. Being aware of these abiotic stresses can help lawn care operators, turf managers, and homeowners take steps to mitigate the damage from these stressors.

What is Summer Stress?

Comparison of wilt stress after 3 days of high heat and drought conditions.

Summer stress is primarily driven by a combination of two abiotic stress factors: heat stress and drought stress. Both stress factors create a decline in the overall quality of the plant’s health. Summer stress is more common with cool season turfgrasses (Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue, and tall fescue). However, warm-season turfgrasses as well as other drought-tolerant turf species are also susceptible to injury, especially if the turf is located on southern slopes, in shallow / compacted soils, or in soils deficient in water. Summer stress can often be a trigger that causes turf to enter dormancy. While dormancy isn’t necessarily bad, it isn’t desirable, especially when healthy turf is critical for athletic fields and other recreational activities. While in dormancy, turf is also more susceptible to weeds, pests (such as insect infestations), and various diseases. "A combination of mechanical stress, heat stress, and heavy rain can also push turf over the edge, possibly culminating in damage ranging from thin turf to rapid decline,” writes Elliot Dowling and Blake Meentemeyer of USGA. Allowing your turf to enter dormancy is contingent on your lawn’s ability to develop deep, healthy roots during periods of active growth. Without a well-developed root system, your turf may end up dying during dormancy.

Drought vs. Heat Stress:

Heat Stress

When temperatures exceed 60-75°F (the ideal range for cool-season turfgrasses) turf metabolic rate and health begin to decline. Turf may become susceptible to tire track burn (also known as heat tracking) leading to the creation brown spots in specific areas. After some time, turf grass may enter dormancy to conserve energy. When cool-season turf enters dormancy during heat stress, it consumes less water and can stay in this state for up to 4 weeks before the risk of tissue death becomes problematic. Dormant turf is not dead, although it can be hard to tell the difference once dormancy has taken full effect. When dormant, turf can turn brown. It will come out of dormancy and green up with regular watering once temperatures begin to drop.

(Left) Tire track burns left on turf experiencing heat stress.

(Right) Cool-season turf has entered dormancy while a patch of warm-season turf stays green.

High air temperature is not the only factor that contributes to heat stress. Heightened soil temperatures can also be detrimental to turf health. "In a controlled study at Rutgers University, the researchers exposed creeping bentgrass plants to increasing soil temperatures while holding the air temperature constant at 68 °F. Above 70 °F, they observed a decline in root mass, length, and activity, which continued to decline with increasing soil temperature" writes Dr. T. K. Danneberger and Dr. J. R. Street & P. J. Sherratt . When soil temperatures exceed a daily average of 70°F, cool-season turf root mass can be negatively impacted by more than 50%. Cool-season and warm-season turfgrasses perform best at specific temperatures. The key is making sure the soil moisture is adequate. Without moisture in the soil, turf risks drought stress and plant death.

Drought Stress

Drought stress is another major problem for turfgrass varieties. Although warm-season grasses can withstand the heat of summer in most areas when compared to cool-season grasses, both are subject to drought stress and risk going dormant without water. Turf will begin to show signs of drought stress when the amount of water lost in transpiration is greater than the amount of water available. Drought stress is most noticeable on slopes as well as turf that is established in shallow or poor soil. The quality of the soil is key to the quality of the turf. Lack of water (rainfall or irrigation) can lead to a decrease in growth due to a decrease in photosynthesis and plant respiration and an increase in plant temperature. Put together with the already high summer temperatures, turf that undergoes drought stress is at risk of death. Knowing how to spot the beginning stages of drought stress is important to keep your turf healthy.

A loss in elasticity in the plant walls of turf during drought will result in footprints lasting several minutes to hours on turf before bouncing back up.

Symptoms of drought stress can vary depending on the turfgrass species and the severity of water limitation. Some turf goes through discoloration during the initial signs of drought stress. An example would be Kentucky bluegrass going to a deeper blue color. Another symptom is the leaf blades of most turfgrasses folding lengthwise, giving the appearance of thinner turf. As turf becomes dehydrated, the plant walls begin to lose elasticity, which results in "foot printing." Foot printing is when footprints on turf last several minutes to hours before bouncing back up. Healthy turf will spring back up without resistance. You can also check for moisture by pushing a screwdriver into the soil. If any resistance is given, the soil most likely requires additional water.

Prevention

Summer stress can cause your turf to change from green to brown in a matter of days or weeks. Having a deep, healthy root system is key to ensuring much of the moisture in the soil is being taken up with maximum absorption. Biological products such as AMP-XC™ can help your turf grow stronger and deeper roots while improving the quality of the soil. AMP-XC™ is a rich source of proteins, amino acids, organic acids, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), fulvic acids and natural bacteria that results in optimal plant performance, improved plant health, strengthens turf against abiotic and biotic stresses (including heat and drought) and triggers the development of deep root growth. It is also important to reduce soil compaction to promote healthy root development during the spring. Aerating or adding organic material to the soil like humic can help soften the soil. This allows for an increase in moisture storage and nutrient uptake. Creating a fertilization plan with metered nutrition and soil enrichment products will increase turf's ability to tolerate various summer stresses. Soil amendments such as Hi-Calcium Lime or Gypsum can also be used to improve soil health, create a neutral soil pH and developing an ideal environment for root growth. Other tips to reduce turf stress include raising your mower height at the beginning of summer. This allows turf to provide more shade to the soil, thus reducing evaporation and conserving moisture. Don’t forget to properly irrigate. Assure that water is being evenly distributed and that there are no areas of poor soil drainage. In addition, increasing the use (percent in the bag) of slow or controlled-release fertilizer technology like XCU™ or TTRU™ prior to summer will provide reliable and extended nutrition, feeding your during times of stress.

Recovery

If your lawn is already experiencing heat stress, make sure your soil is adequately watered. Keep up with the best watering practices for your turf species and location to reduce the risk of disease and other issues. If your lawn has already gone dormant, breaking dormancy may drain the reserves within the turf, and if summer stress conditions continue, the plant may not fully recover. It is important to water as efficiently as possible to promote dense, healthy turf. During a drought, watering deeply but infrequently will help your turf recover. Keeping note of the problem areas within your turf is also key. Be sure to take note of any pest issues as well as weeds. Once turf has woken from summer dormancy, it is important to apply a post-emergent herbicide to control any weeds that may have appeared when the turf was dormant. Turf that experienced damage or death from summer stress should be reseeded or sodded during the fall.

In Summary

Prevention is key! Identify the issues your turf typically faces in summer and make sure you prepare your turf in spring. Apply fertilizers with extended nutrition to feed your turf in times of stress. Include biologicals and soil amendments in your turf management program to strengthen the roots and optimize nutrient and moisture uptake. Irrigate or efficiently water to avoid dormancy or damage.

For professional fertilizers, soil amendments or biologicals like AMP-XC , humic or sea kelp products, visit Turf Care Supply’s online Product Catalog .

References:

https://journals.ashs.org/hortsci/view/journals/hortsci/48/12/article-p1562.xml https://sturf.lib.msu.edu/article/2014jun12.pdf https://u.osu.edu/athleticfieldmanagement/2016/07/20/managing-sports-fields-during-summer-heat-drought-stress/ https://www.gcmonline.com/tags/summer-turf-stress https://sportsfieldmanagementonline.com/2014/07/01/beating-summer-stress-for-cool-season-sports-turf/4935/ https://turf.unl.edu/turfinfo/managing_your_lawn_in_summer_heat.v2.pdf https://turf.purdue.edu/summer-stress-4/ https://www.jclandscapingllc.com/lawn/heat-stress-and-how-to-treat-it/ https://turf.purdue.edu/summer-stress-3/ https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/solutions/lawn-care-tips-for-summer/ https://web.extension.illinois.edu/lawntalk/weeds/managing_lawns_during_drought.cfm https://extension.unl.edu/statewide/douglas-sarpy/pdfs/ce/resources/ce-g2191-water-wise-drought-effects-on-turf-in-the-landscape.pdf https://www.purdue.edu/newsroom/outreach/2012/120628PattonLawn.html

Photos:

https://turfblog.rutgers.edu/?p=825 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/allow-some-browning-lawns-conserve-water https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/water-saving-strategies-home-lawns https://turf.purdue.edu/time-to-water/

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply, LLC Announces New Chief Financial Officer

Thu, 28 Jul 2022 12:59:00 GMT

Brunswick, OH. (April 25, 2022) – Turf Care Supply, LLC (“Turf Care” or the “Company”), the leading formulator and blender of coated nitrogen and other fertilizer products to the turf & ornamental market, is excited to announce Michael Randall as the new Chief Financial Officer (CFO).

Mike Randall has previously served as the CFO for both Anchor Manufacturing and for a private investment group, The Misfud Group, LLC. Mike has also held a variety of financial positions with Shiloh Industries in Valley City, Ohio and Eaton Corporation in Cleveland. Mike received his Accounting degree from Ohio Wesleyan University.

“We are very excited to have Mike join the Turf Care team. Mike’s frontline leadership and successful C level experience make him an incredible addition to our company,” said Mark Mangan, President of Turf Care.

Established in 1974, Turf Care Supply is one of the largest formulators and blenders of urea products to the turf & ornamental market. Turf Care has a comprehensive product portfolio of fertilizers, combination products (herbicide/insecticide), soil amendments and enhanced efficiency fertilizer ingredients. Turf Care's products are sold to distributors and blenders serving the commercial, residential and golf end markets.

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply Promotes Mark Mangan to President

Wed, 26 Jan 2022 20:58:00 GMT

Brunswick, OH. (January 1, 2022) – Turf Care Supply, LLC (“Turf Care” or the “Company”), the leading formulator and blender of coated nitrogen and other fertilizer produ cts to the turf & ornamental market, announced today that it has promoted Mark Mangan to President.

Mark has over 35 years of industry experience and has played an important role in growing the value of the Turf Care business. Mr. Mangan has served as Chief Operating Officer of the Company since 2015, prior to which he has held multiple leadership positions at Turf Care. He has played a pivotal role in expanding commercial relationships, entering new markets, and developing strategic partnerships.

William Milowitz, the Company’s Chief Executive Officer, will continue to operate in his current role as CEO. “Mark has been an invaluable member of the Turf Care team and has played an essential role in the growth and success achieved over the last few years. I am excited for Mark’s continued development in this new leadership role,” Mr. Milowitz said.

Enhanced Efficiency Fertilizers (EEFs): The Key to Maximizing Turf Health, Sustainability, and Your Return on Investment (ROI)

Sun, 16 Jan 2022 09:42:00 GMT

Enhanced efficiency fertilizers (EEFs), just what are they?

You may have heard the term thrown around, or you may have seen a product labeled as EEF, but do you know the potential benefits of using EEFs for your turfgrass needs? In this presentation, we will be discussing a few key topics around the subject of EEFs. First, we will discuss what defines a fertilizer to be an EEF, as well as discussing several different types of EEFs that are readily available. Next, we will be moving on to the discussion of how EEFs are beneficial for turfgrass. This will lead us into our third topic of how EEFs are environmentally responsible. Our final topic will be how using EEFs can protect your return on your fertilizer investment. All the topics that will be presented today, will help you to maximize turf health.

What are EEFs and what types are available?

The official definition of enhanced efficiency fertilizers defined by the Association of American Plant Food Control Officials (AAPFCO) is, fertilizer products with characteristics that allow increased plant uptake and reduce the potential of nutrient losses to the environment (i.e. gaseous losses, leaching or runoff) when compared to an appropriate reference product. To simplify the definition, EEFs are fertilizers that increase nutrient availability and decrease the loss of those nutrients to the environment by maintaining the nutrients within the root zone of the turfgrass. The initial response for EEFs can range from just a few days to a few weeks but the longevity of the EEF can be several months, sometimes even up to 12. EEFs can have different release mechanisms involved ranging from temperature-controlled diffusion, microbial, solubility, and hydrolysis, just to list a few. The initial response, longevity, and release mechanisms all depend on what type of EEF is used. Although there are several classes of EEFs, we will only be discussing three types. These types are controlled-release, slow-release, and nitrification inhibitors.

Controlled-release fertilizers use coatings, such as advanced polymer-coated urea, to delay or extend the nutrient availability of nitrogen to the turfgrass that it is applied to. They release the nutrients based on osmosis and diffusion through the coating. Water passes through the polymer layer and dissolves the nutrients inside. Those nutrients then slowly release from the coating and into the soil. The release rate and longevity depend on the coating thickness and soil temperature.

Slow-release fertilizers use coatings, such as sulfur and wax, to react urea with other ingredients that slowly decompose and break down by chemical and/or biological processes in the soil, thus delaying nitrogen release. Cracks in the coating allow water to move in and dissolve, then release the urea. If the coating is intact then water movement through the coating results in internal osmotic pressure that cracks the coating and releases the nutrients. This process is called catastrophic release. Microbial degradation of the coating also allows water to reach the urea, dissolving and releasing it.

Nitrification inhibitors work in the soil by slowing the microbial conversion of ammonium to nitrate. They are antibiotics that may be effective at reducing nitrogen loss for several weeks depending on conditions. They only function in a limited area around the granule. These chemical compounds temporarily reduce populations of certain bacteria that are responsible for converting ammonium to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate in the soil. Depending on soil temperature and pH, efficacy can range from two to several weeks.

The Benefits of Using EEFs on Turfgrass

Now that you understand a little more about what exactly enhanced eficiency fertilizers are, let’s dive into the benefits of using EEFs on your turfgrass. EEFs control the nutrient intake of the fertilizer into the turfgrass. Traditional soluble fertilizers quickly dissolve into the soil. When fertilizer is quickly dissolved, the turfgrass can’t readily absorb all the nutrients. This gives a potential increase for them to be lost to the soil and possibly into surface and groundwater. Since slow- and controlled-release fertilizers gradually deliver nitrogen and other nutrients to match the turfgrass uptake needs, EEFs can virtually eliminate nutrient loss due to leaching and denitrification. With this steady feeding to the turfgrass, surge growth is minimized, and the number of fertilizer applications are reduced. With traditional fertilizers, multiple applications are common to keep the turfgrass green and healthy. However, only a limited amount of applications is needed with EEFs. EEFs also have high carbon to nitrogen ratios which provide increased microbial activity, thus fortifying soils and reducing thatch buildup. The compounds found in nitrification inhibitors protect against both denitrification and leaching by retaining fertilizer nitrogen in the ammonium form.

Environmentally Responsible

Using enhanced efficiency fertilizers is not only beneficial to the turfgrass you are applying it to, but it is also beneficial for the environment. EEFs benefit the environment both directly and indirectly. Since EEFs increase nutrient availability and decrease the loss of those nutrients to the environment, this reduces the greenhouse gas emissions and water contamination that happens when using traditional fertilizers. Traditional fertilizers are also subject to loss by leaching through the soil or volatilizing (escaping into the atmosphere), which harms the environment. A nutrient that leaves its intended application site is considered a pollutant. Leaching is when a nutrient moves beyond the turfgrass root system and is no longer available for the turfgrass to absorb. With leaching and runoff, there is the risk of contamination of ground water which can lead to health hazards. If the nutrients get into water bodies or wetlands there is an increased risk of algae blooms and other plant growth that reduces the water’s ability to support life. By using EEFs, you reduce the risk of losing valuable nutrients and therefore reduce the environmental impact.

Protect Your Return on Your Fertilizer Investment

Using enhanced efficiency fertilizers allows you to do more with less. This is not only beneficial and economical but is also great business. If you get paid per application or visit, you can easily switch that over to having the customer pay you for the results and not the trips you take. If you use cheaper products or eliminate needed applications to cut costs, it will only backfire in terms of reduced lawn quality and dissatisfied customers. Using EEFs effectively delivers more nutrients to the turfgrass while reducing nutrient losses. This cuts down the cost of supplies needed. Therefore, you are not losing out on wasted product and it gives you a chance to save on your fertilizer budget and increased profits. EEFs are also environmentally responsible with low risks of nutrient leaching, denitrification, runoff, and volatilization, so you can use that as a selling point. With fewer fertilizer applications, this allows for optimized labor allocation. You also save money on fuel and equipment upkeep. So, if you decide to use EEFs, your return on fertilizer investment is protected.

Conclusion

So now you know a little more information on enhanced efficiency fertilizers. EEFs are fertilizers that increase nutrient availability and decrease the loss of those nutrients to the environment by maintaining the nutrients within the root zone of the turfgrass. There are several classes of EEFs but the ones that were discussed in this blog were controlled-release, slow-release, and nitrification inhibitors. All three of these EEFs help to prevent nitrogen loss into the environment. There are numerous benefits to using EEFs, but the main benefit is the turfgrass that the EEFs are applied to will stay healthy and green longer with less applications. EEFs are very beneficial for the environment and help to prevent leaching, volatilization, runoff, and greenhouse gas emissions are decreased. You will protect your return on fertilizer investment if you switch to using EEFs by delivering more nutrients to the turfgrass while reducing nutrient loss. You avoid wasting product and can allocate the extra time needed for other jobs. Overall, enhanced efficiency fertilizers are the key to maximizing turf health, sustainability, and your return on investment.

Sources: https://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/wetrt/page/2009apr31-40.pdf https://landresources.montana.edu/soilfertility/documents/PDF/pub/EEFEB0188.pdf https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1247 http://nmsp.cals.cornell.edu/publications/factsheets/factsheet45.pdf https://cropwatch.unl.edu/2019/nitrogen-inhibitors-improved-fertilizer-use-efficiency https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb1046139.pdf https://partnershipfarm.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/EEF-Draft_Final-012418MA-1.pdf

Biologicals and their Benefits to Turf and Soil Health

Tue, 24 Aug 2021 13:37:00 GMT

WHAT ARE BIOLOGICALS?

Biologicals are products that contain components from living or once living organisms. Biologicals offer many significant benefits to turf and soil health and can be applied to plants, flowers, vegetables, and trees. Some of these positive benefits include improved root growth, stress tolerance, increased microbial activity, improved nutrient availability and soil water holding capacity. With a variety of biological products available it can be overwhelming to know which one to choose. To assist, we have categorized them into several groups so you can better understand their differences and unique roles they play in promoting turf and soil health. Most of these products can be applied alone or can be be blended/coated on fertilizer.

BIOLOGICAL CATEGORIES

Listed below are the major categories of biologicals and their key benefits to turf and soil health.

1. Beneficial Microbes

Organisms found in soil where food sources are plentiful. Beneficial microbes used in biologicals are:

Bacteria
Fungi (mycorrhizae)

Benefits:

Bacteria

Fix nitrogen gas from the air into usable forms for plants
Convert urea into inorganic nitrogen for plant use
Share metabolites with plants

Fungi (Mycorrhizae)

Act as an extension of plant root systems
Defend plants against pathogenic bacteria

2. Plant Growth Regulators (PGRs)

Chemical substances that are used to regulate the growth of plants.

Benefits:

PGR's regulate the rate of various plant processes including growth, homeostasis, reproduction, pathogen defense, and abiotic stress tolerance.

3. Humic Substances occur naturally in soils as a result of the breakdown of organic matter. Humic substances in biologicals are:

Fulvic Acid
Humic Acid
Humins

Benefits (Humic):

Stimulate root growth
Chelate and complex macro and micronutrients
Increase the soil’s Cation Exchange Capacity (C.E.C.)
Reduce soil compaction
Retain moisture in soils
Enhance the soil quality for beneficial microbes

4. Kelp (Seaweed) Extracts

Marine-based species of plants and algae.

Benefits:

Kelp helps plants adapt their physiology to abiotic stressors such as heat, cold, drought, and salt.

5. Metabolites

Microbial metabolites are a byproduct of beneficial soil bacteria (microbes), which are a natural, rich source of protein hydrolysates, organic acids, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and fulvic acids. There are two types of metabolites, primary and secondary. Both of which are highly beneficial to plant and soil health.

Benefits:

Providing organic compounds essential for plant growth and development
Driving the plants biochemistry including respiration, cell division, energy production and reproduction
Helping plants cope with many biotic and abiotic stresses
Improving plants survivability by boosting disease resistance and discouraging herbivory (insect damage)

6. Enzymes

Protein molecules in cells.

Benefits:

Accelerate metabolic and catabolic reactions associated with the plant’s metabolism.

For biologicals or fertilizers enhanced with biologicals including humic and AMP-XC™ products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://ag.umass.edu/greenhouse-floriculture/fact-sheets/what-are-biostimulants https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5266735/ https://www.extension.iastate.edu/turfgrass/blog/biostimulant-use-turf-industry https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/organic-biostimulants.html https://blog-crop-news.extension.umn.edu/2018/12/biostimulants-what-are-they-and-do-they.html http://livingturf.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Prof-Schmidt-on-Biostimulants.pdf https://www.ausgap.com.au/benefits-of-organic-biostimulants-for-turf/ https://www.lebturfblog.com/biostimulants-in-the-turf-world/ https://www.gcmonline.com/course/environment/news/nachurs-turf-ornamental-turfgrass-stress

Photos:

https://www.wsl.ch/en/publicationssearch/diagonal-the-wsl-magazine/key-topics/biodiversity/soil-microbes-under-climate-change.html https://www.abc.net.au/science/articles/2010/03/25/2854893.htm https://draxe.com/nutrition/fulvic-acid/

Prostrate Knotweed - How to control this invasive turfgrass predator

Wed, 04 Nov 2020 21:50:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION

Prostrate knotweed (Polygonum Aviculare), also known as wiregrass, knotgrass, yard knotweed, and doorweed, is a low-growing summer annual/occasional perennial weed. Prostrate knotweed is a weed that is related to buckwheat and dock. Found in all 50 states, prostrate knotweed is a very widespread and invasive weed that will overtake and destroy your turf and release toxins into your soil if not properly managed.

Prostrate knotweed has multiple slender and wiry stems that grow slowly and upright before becoming prostrate and forming mats that can reach 4 to 48 inches in diameter. It has stalkless leaves that alternate along the stem, ranging in size from 1/5 to 4/5 of an inch and are generally ovular in shape. Along the stem, there are nodes encircled by paper-thin leaf stipules which are usually swollen and therefore give this weed the common name of knotweed. Coloring of this weed can be green or blue-green with the possibility of a whitish powdery mildew. The root system of the prostrate knotweed is a long, thin taproot, which has been reported to reach up to 30 inches given the proper conditions. The prostrate knotweed produces small flowers that can range from a white to green coloring with a pinkish tinge. Prostrate knotweed can be confused with spotted spurge but can be distinguished by the milky white sap that exudes from the spurge when its stem is broken.

Prostrate knotweed starts to appear long before any other weeds and will start showing up in the spring as soon as the snow melts. Emerging seedlings are often mistaken for grasses in the very early stage of development. Flowering of the prostrate knotweed may occur from March to November but usually averages from June to October. It germinates from early to mid-April and throughout the spring. A single plant can produce 125 to 6,400 seeds, which can remain dormant for years given the proper conditions. These seeds also serve as forage for songbirds and other small animals.

This weed grows well in compacted soils with poor aeration. These soils can be poor or rich in nutrients and of all types of textures. Prostrate knotweed prefers areas of heavy traffic and can often be found in roadsides, fields, agronomic croplands, vineyards, orchards, residential and commercial turf, gardens, landscaped areas, pathways, walkways, and disturbed unmanaged areas. It readily invades areas where other weeds may struggle to grow.

DAMAGE

Prostrate knotweed can be very damaging to turf due to the giant mats that are formed by the plant. This weed can quickly spread and become very dense, preventing other grasses from even having a chance to grow. The knotweed’s roots and leaves also produce toxins that can alter the composition of the soil, therefore making it unsuitable for certain native species. Prostrate knotweed is killed by the first few frosts of the fall, however, the dead branches will remain even after the winter. These dead branches and clusters are not only ugly but can become a fire hazard.

Although prostrate knotweed itself is not hazardous to humans, the plant can host parasitic weed dodder, viruses, nematodes, and fungi such as powdery mildew fungi. Predatory insects may also use the flowers as a food source.

MANAGEMENT

Controlling prostrate knotweed in late spring to early summer is encouraged. Turf will have a higher chance of recovering the damaged areas. Prostrate knotweed is considered an indicator plant for compacted soil. Aeration is a common management method which can be done by loosening the soil to provide better drainage and an environment for more desirable species. Overseeding with a locally adapted grass seed is highly suggested.

Mechanical control methods alone will not properly control the infestation of prostrate knotweed in turfgrass. However, frequent manual removal using common weeding tools, combined with mulching, can effectively manage this weed in home gardens. Prostrate knotweed and its seeds can also survive mowing. It is suggested to avoid mowing areas infested with this weed to stop the seeds from spreading.

Chemical control is the most effective route to take when managing prostrate knotweed. For best results, a preemergent herbicide should be applied prior to seed germination. There are many herbicides that can control prostrate knotweed. Preemergent active ingredients labeled to control prostrate knotweed include atrazine, dithiopyr, oxadiazon, pendimethalin, prodiamine and trifluralin. Be sure to read label completely for proper application.

For postemergence control, herbicides that contain dicamba, glyphosate, and pelargonic acid have proven to be effective. In early stages of growth, when the weed is less than 3 inches in diameter, 2,4-D can also successfully be applied.

PREVENTION

Keep your turf thick and lush by adopting a seasonal fertilizer program that will ensure your turf can fend off weeds AND disease pressure. Avoid wearing and tearing up turf by avoiding walking the same pathway, which will reduce the likelihood of compaction. Soil aeration and overseeding is also essential to preventing your turf from becoming an environment where prostrate knotweed can grow. With the use of pre- and postemergent herbicides, proper management techniques suggested, prostrate knotweed and additional weeds can be easily prevented resulting in beautiful healthy turf.

For professional fertilizers with herbicides to prevent and control weeds, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.invasive.org/browse/subinfo.cfm?sub=6210 http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/common_knotweed.html http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7484.html https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/broadleaf/creeping/pknotweed.html https://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/forb/polavi/all.html#32 https://wiki.bugwood.org/HPIPM:Common_knotweed https://accs.uaa.alaska.edu/wp-content/uploads/Polygonum_aviculare_BIO_POAV.pdf https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/prostrate-knotweed https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/42685#topreventionAndControl

Photos:

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/prostrate-knotweed https://daysingarden.com/2019/02/12/ugly-weeds-of-summer-prostrate-knotweed/ https://turf.purdue.edu/prostrate-knotweed/

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply Corp. is Granted Exclusive Licensing Agreement

Thu, 13 Aug 2020 12:41:00 GMT

Koch Turf And Ornamental and Turf Care Supply Corp. Reach Exclusive Licensing Agreement

WICHITA, Kan. – Koch Agronomic Services, LLC, operating under its corporate brand Koch Turf and Ornamental (Koch), and Turf Care Supply Corporation (TCSC), reached a definitive agreement to grant TCSC an exclusive license to market and distribute the following Koch turf and ornamental enhanced efficiency fertilizers in North America for turf and ornamental applications –DURATION®, HYDREXX®, NITROFORM®, NUTRALENE®, UFLEXX®, UMAXX®and XCU®. The agreement will also provide TCSC an opportunity to purchase and resell NITAMIN® fertilizer to turf and ornamental professionals.

TCSC – one of the nation’s largest blenders and packagers of fertilizer products as well as the largest producer of coated nitrogen products for the turf & ornamental industry –has formed a new entity, Allied Nutrients, to market and distribute these technologies. Allied Nutrients believes the agreement will provide a science-based, expansive platform of products as they launch this new business unit.

As part of this agreement, members of the Koch team will transition to Allied Nutrients, including agronomy, customer service and sales, bringing more than 100 years of collective industry experience.

“Through this exclusive license, we are able to greatly expand our technology portfolio,” said Bill Milowitz, chief executive officer and president of TCSC. “We are excited to welcome the Koch team into the Allied Nutrient family, and we are certain that their expertise and knowledge will allow us to better serve our customers in the future.”

The combination of Koch’s strong portfolio of controlled-release, slow-release, and stabilized nitrogen fertilizers with TCSC’s robust production and Allied Nutrient’s distribution and sales capability provides a clear opportunity to accelerate adoption of these technologies by a wider audience of turf professionals. These technologies allow for optimized nutrient uptake, fewer fertilizer applications and minimized impact to the environment.

“TCSC has been manufacturing XCU for years so we are familiar with their high-quality standards, dedication to customer service and state-of-the-art facilities,” said Steve Coulter, senior vice president of Koch Agronomic Services. “With TCSC’s production assets and Allied Nutrient’s sole focus on the turf and ornamental industry combined with the broader product offering and the experienced Koch team, we believe Allied Nutrients will be very well positioned to serve Koch’s current turf customers and the industry as a whole.

”Koch will retain rights to offer their turf and ornamental products and brands to customers outside of North America. The transaction is expected to close August 31.

###

About Koch Agronomic Services, LLC

Koch Agronomic Services, LLC and its affiliates produce and market a proven and expanding global portfolio of plant performance technologies for agriculture producers and turf and ornamental professionals. With a commitment to creating real, sustainable, long-term value for customers and society, Koch Agronomic Services, LLC focuses on developing customer-driven solutions to maximize plant performance and minimize environmental impact. Koch Agronomic Services, LLC is a subsidiary of Koch Ag & Energy Solutions, LLC. www.kochagronomicservices.com.

About Turf Care Supply Corporation

Turf Care Supply Corp. has been the leader in American manufacturing and product innovations for the professional green industry for over 45 years. TCSC formulates many of the top performing professional and retail fertilizer brands integrating only the highest quality raw materials and the most effective technologies. In addition, Turf Care Supply Corp. operates the largest Nitrogen coating facility, focused on the Turf and Ornamental Industries. In 2015, TCSC was acquired from Platinum Equity, LLC by senior management.

How to Restore and Prevent Soil Compaction

Tue, 04 Aug 2020 19:51:00 GMT

Soil compaction is caused by the lack of pore space in the soil, which leads to a reduction in oxygen, water infiltration and nutrient availability. As the pore space decreases the soil density increases, starving the turfgrass and the microbes in the soil from the necessities needed for healthy survival.

LEADING CAUSES OF SOIL COMPACTION
There are many factors that can lead to compaction but the leading issues are poor soil composition and environmental stressors. To produce an ideal soil composition the right combination of inorganic and organic matter is necessary. Low levels of organic matter make the soil more susceptible to soil compaction and an unbalanced soil composition of inorganic matter including sand, silt and clay can become prone to damage. Sports turf is often subjected to excessive vehicle and foot traffic caused by golf carts or athletes that lead to compaction and bare spots. Commercial and residential turf can also develop compacted soil and thatch layers due to increased traffic, especially more damaging when wet or in the peak of summer when turf is less resilient. Poor drainage and irrigation can also be a factor and can be identified by puddling on turf, which slowly dissipates after a rain.

HOW TO TREAT AND RECOVER THE SOIL

Although very damaging to your turf, soil compaction can be corrected. First, you must increase the flow of oxygen, water and nutrients that have been deprived from the soil by aerating. Core aerate the soil as deep as the compaction occurs, use a tine diameter from ¼ to ¾ inches and 2-6 inches apart is recommended. It is important to remove any thatch layers first and avoid cultivating when compacted soils are too dry to prevent adding additional stress. Turfgrass with excessive traffic like sports fields or golf greens should aerate 4-6 times a year and general turf should aerate at least 1-2 times annually. The plugs should be broken up immediately, removed from the turf or scattered to act as a topdressing material to manage thatch. Next, you need to improve the soil composition by adding the inorganic and organic material that is needed. Apply a thin finely granulated layer of soil and organic material (and inorganic if needed) to topdress your turf and amend the soil composition. Organic material will loosen up the soil increasing pore space and strengthen your soil against compaction. Then follow with over seeding, fertilizer and lime as needed. If aerating 1-2 times a year, follow this procedure in early spring and/or early fall for best results.

HOW TO PREVENT AND AVOID SOIL COMPACTION

Like many turfgrass issues that arise, prevention is key to avoiding compaction. Correcting your soil composition and assuring it has the correct balance of inorganic and organic materials can avoid the need to manage damage. (To learn more about ideal soil composition, watch the TurfLab Ch:4 webinar: Soil Amendments and Ideal Soil for a comprehensive explanation.) Since compaction from vehicle or foot traffic can worsen when turf is wet of dried out, try to keep traffic limited in these conditions. For sports turf, it is recommended to move tee markers, flag sticks or rotate practice fields to avoid excessive wear. The most important prevention is to follow best practices for managing turfgrass including, regular aeration, soil amending , adding organic material , proper irrigation/drainage, over seeding (when needed) and fertilization .

For professional fertilizers, soil amendments and organic material including AMP-XC™ and humic enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog . For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

#TurfKiller - Ticks

Mon, 20 Jul 2020 21:04:00 GMT

Learn the Dangers of Ticks and How to Protect your TURF

As many know, ticks can transmit a variety of diseases that can be a threat to human and animal health. According to the CDC, “Ticks and tickborne diseases are increasingly problematic today, the threat posed by human-biting ticks is more widespread across the eastern United States, increasingly complex (multiple tick species and >10 notable tickborne pathogens), and, across tick species, more spatially diffuse (including backyards, neighborhood green spaces, and public recreation areas). To mitigate tick-associated negative societal effects, we must consider shifting the responsibility for tick control to include both individual persons and professionally staffed tick-management programs.”

So how can we combat the dangers of ticks and protect people, pets and turf? In this article we will discuss the precautions and products necessary to prevent ticks on turf, landscapes and around commercial properties or homes.

DESCRIPTION

Close relatives of mites, spiders and scorpions, ticks pass through four stages in their life; egg, larva, nymph and adult. With the exception of the egg, all other stages are blood-sucking parasites. After hatching from the egg, the tick must feed to complete each stage in its lifecycle. Ticks are active mostly in the spring, summer and fall, but some species are active in the winter. When they are ready to feed, ticks will locate a host by ‘questing’. Questing is when a tick climbs up to the tips of turfgrass blades or vegetation, extends their front legs out away from their bodies and waits for a host to latch on to.

This process can dry the pest out, so they usually return to the base of vegetation several times a day to stay hydrated. Ticks mouths are barbed, similar to a fish hook, making removal from skin very difficult.

While there are dozens of tick species throughout the United States, the three species that are the most likely ticks to be encountered by people or pets are the Eastern Blacklegged Tick, the American Dog Tick and the Lone Star Tick.

DAMAGE

Tickborne disease pathogens, which include viruses, bacteria, rickettsiae, and protozoa, increasingly threaten the health of pets and people in the United States annually. New diseases have been discovered in the past two decades linking several of them to these tickborne illnesses. In addition, the number of counties in the northeastern and upper midwestern United States that are considered high-risk for Lyme disease have increased more than 300% between 1993 and 2012. Between 2004 and 2016, more than 640,000 cases of vector-borne diseases like dengue, Zika, Lyme or plague were reported.

A tick burrowed in human skin.

MANAGEMENT

It is important to mow lawn frequently, reducing overgrowth will cut down on tick 'questing' sites and discourage rodents and other possible hosts from becoming established. If you have wood logs outside, consider stacking the wood neatly in a dry area, this will discourage rodents as well. Keep playground equipment, decks and patios away from yard edges and trees where ticks may reside. If woods are near your property, placing a 3-foot-wide barrier of wood chips or gravel between turfgrass and wooded areas will help restrict tick migration into lawns. Discourage unwelcome potential tick hosts such as deer, raccoons, and stray dogs by constructing a fence around your yard. Along with discouraging entry into the yard, reducing shade can reduce the amount of suitable habitat for deer, rodents and ticks.

Tick removal: If you have already been bitten by a tick, removal of the ticks, promptly, will greatly reduce the likelihood of infection. Disease transmission mostly occurs after ticks have been attached for longer than 24 hours. The appropriate way to remove a tick is a strong set of tweezers. Grab the tick at the front of the body, as close to the surface of the skin as possible. Slowly pull the tick straight from the body and allow elasticity of skin to provide pressure to remove the tick. DO NOT grasp or squeeze the rear portion of the tick. Any gut content from the tick that makes contact with your skin tissue can increase the likelihood of disease transmission, if the tick is infected with disease-causing organisms.

PREVENTION

Some think that ticks are only present in deep wooded areas but "An estimated three quarters of all Lyme disease cases are acquired from ticks picked up during activities around the home" says Dr. Stafford the Chief Entomologist at Connecticut Agricultural. Which is why it is important to protect residential and commercial turf, landscaping and the perimeter of buildings. The CDC recommends the use of insecticides to reduce the number of ticks around locations frequented by people and pets. Bifenthrin is one of the most widely used professional insecticides because of it's highly effective results. It has been shown to successfully prevent and control ticks (plus fleas, ants and more) and is safe to apply to turfgrass, ornamentals and flowerbeds for total protection. You can pour it in your spreader and apply to lawn and distribute around the perimeter of buildings. Be sure to follow the label instructions and cautions before you apply.

For professional control fertilizers with insecticide, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References: https://www.esu.edu/dna/tick-diagnostics/identification.cfm https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/ticks-and-tick-borne-diseases https://extension2.missouri.edu/g7382 http://npic.orst.edu/pest/tick/index.html https://www.cdc.gov/media/dpk/diseases-and-conditions/lyme-disease/index.html https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/diseases/index.html https://www.cdc.gov/vitalsigns/vector-borne/index.html https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/eid/article/26/4/19-1629_article
Photos: http://npic.orst.edu/pest/tick/index.html https://www.prevention.com/health/a27392774/tick-bite-pictures/ https://www.wired.com/story/we-have-no-idea-how-bad-the-us-tick-problem-is/

How to Read and Interpret a Soil Test

Thu, 02 Jul 2020 13:04:00 GMT

How to Read and Interpret A Soil Test: A Field Service Manual for Growing Healthy, Vibrant Turfgrass (Volume 1)

By Joe Marchinchin, M.S. Corporate Agronomist, Turf Care Supply Corp.

SUMMARY

Introducing the green industry's most comprehensive guide to understanding and analyzing a soil test. Learn step by step as the author, agronomist, Joe Marchinchin reviews and explains each test result and how to adjust your soil for optimal turf health.

INTRODUCTION

Whether participating in a turf/agronomic conference or watching an informative video online, we’ve all heard that infamous suggestion prior to fertilization, “First, make sure to perform a soil test.” If you’re a superintendent of a golf course, there’s a good chance that regular soil tests are an important component of your turf maintenance program. If you’re a landscape professional (or LCO), you might only conduct a soil test if your client’s turf health is struggling, or the client agrees to pay for it. If you’re a typical D.I.Y./homeowner who just wants to get his/her fertilizer down, odds are you’re going to skip it.

Realistically, if you want vibrant, healthy, lush green turf, you should perform a soil test and condition the soil at least once per year.

Why perform a soil test?

A soil test helps agronomists, greenskeepers, lawn care operators and property owners determine which soil amendments and nutrients to add to the soil, and how much. Without soil test data, applicators can only guess what to apply (or not to apply) based on visual cues from the soil and overall plant vigor.

What questions are commonly addressed by a standard soil test?

What is the macro and micronutrient content of my soil?What is the pH of my soil?

What is the organic matter content of my soil?

What is the cation exchange capacity (CEC) of my soil?

What is my soil’s texture?Does my soil suffer from heavy metal contamination?

What data is typically shown on a soil test?

A complete panel of standardized tests typically includes all of the following data:

Macronutrient content (N, P, K, S) (often with fertilizer recommendations)
Micronutrient content (Ca, Mg, Mn, Fe, Zn, Cu, B) (often with fertilizer recommendations)
Other element/ion content (Na, Cl)Heavy metal content (Cd, Ni, Pb, Cr, Hg, As, Ba) (this is usually a separate add-on test)
pH
Cation exchange capacity (CEC) (with computed percent cation saturation)
Excess lime ratingSoluble salts
Particle size analysis (with soil texture interpretation)
Organic & Inorganic matter content (the ratio)

Now that we know which tests are typically conducted in a standard full soil analysis, let’s go through each test one by one. In this handbook, we’ll cover pertinent background information related to each test and explain how to interpret your test results. It is our hope that the knowledge you gain here will help you make decisions so that you can positively influence soil to maximize the health and appearance of turf.

What's the Damage: Pythium Root Rot

Mon, 29 Jun 2020 15:09:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION

Many species of the Pythium genus cause turfgrass disease to the roots and crowns, including Pythium blight and Pythium root rot. While Pythium blight affects the foliar leaves of turfgrass, Pythium root rot attacks the roots. Pythium root rot reduces root growth, which eventually causes the turfgrass to wilt, stop growing and even collapse and die, typically leaving circular spots (2-5cm, upto 15 cm). Pythium root rot can develop anytime of the year and can affect even highly maintained turfgrass when the soil is overly-saturated for several days or weeks. In the cooler/mild weather, Pythium Root Rot typically occurs during air temperatures of 55° to 70°F and is generally slow-moving, causing slow-growing, off-color, thinned areas of turf. In warmer weather, Pythium disease can become more problematic, typically active at temps above 86°F and can cause rapid growth overnight, resulting in large wilted, brown areas of dead turfgrass.

Golf putting greens affected by Pythium Root Rot.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

A Pythium root rot outbreak can affect all species of turfgrass and is usually the result of poor surface or subsurface drainage, over-irrigation, heavy rainfalls, excessive thatch and organic matter accumulation. At first, the disease appears as a small, irregularly shaped spot with a greasy, water-soaked appearance. Once it dries, it becomes an orange and yellow areas that resembles drought stress. On the individual plants, the stolons, rhizomes and roots become dark brown, necrotic, wet and greasy. The density of turfgrass roots is also drastically reduced.

THREAT

The pathogens that are responsible for Pythium root rot are present in almost all cultivated soils and attack plant roots, under wet conditions. Therefore, cool-season and warm-season grasses, even highly maintained turfgrasses such as on golf courses, are all susceptible to the unsightly Pythium root rot disease. Symptoms of Pythium root rot can be non-distinctive, which means it can often be confused with other diseases. To prevent misdiagnosis, a professional sportsturf manager, superintendent or landscaper should be employed to appropriately assess and properly treat the damage.

HOW TO MANAGE

In order to avoid or control this disease, an emphasis on providing good drainage and irrigation management is key. Avoid establishing turf in areas that are poorly drained or that remain saturated for extended periods of time. If turfgrass is already established, take the following steps to improve its growing environment.

Proper fertilization is important for prevention and recovery on all types of turfgrass or ornamentals. Avoid over application of nitrogen and quick release nitrogen products because they may make turf less tolerant to Pythium root rot growth. Slow-release nitrogen fertilizers with balanced/equal amounts of potassium are suggested. For areas that are routinely affected by Pythium root rot, extra potassium may be useful in the late summer and early fall months. Proper amounts of quality nutrients and ideal soil health will help prevent turf disease from growing and damaging turfgrass. A soil test should always be performed to accurately determine turfgrass's nutrient requirements.

To prevent Pythium root rot on putting greens, it is recommended to reduce organic matter accumulation and thatch, then aerate and top dressed regularly. At Least 15-20% of the putting green surface should be aerated annually, and 5,000 lbs. of topdressing should be applied per 1,000 sq. ft. each year. Pruning or removing trees surrounding putting greens will increase sunlight penetration and air circulation, which will reduce the activity of Pythium root rot substantially. In some cases, installation of high-powered fans will assist in turf recovery by helping improve air movement where it is typically restricted. In rare cases for some putting greens with poor internal drainage, reconstruction may be the only practical long-term solution for Pythium root rot elimination.

For residential or commercial turfgrass, avoid over-fertilization with quick-release nitrogen and use slow release nitrogen instead. Avoid excessive thatch that exceeds ½ inch. Promote vigorous root growth by raising mowing height and reducing mowing frequency to reduce plant stress. Do not mow when the grass is wet or the foliar mycelium is present. Be sure to avoid late night irrigations that could leave turfgrass wet for long periods of time, which makes it susceptible to disease.

For gardens and potted plants, remove and discard Pythium root rot diseased plants. Incorporate a compost of 20% pine bark in potting mixture, as it’s shown success at providing some control of Pythium root rot. For flowers, specifically, solarization has seen success of control of dampening of the soil to help control Pythium root rot.

For fungicide applications for warm-season Pythium diseases, fungicide applications should be made preventively or at the very first onset of disease symptoms. For the cool-season, fungicide applications should be made when symptoms of Pythium disease develop. Resistance to certain chemistries, like mefenoxam, can develop, so it’s important to practice resistance management by alternating use of fungicides from different chemical classes.

For professional fertilizers, slow-release fertilizers and soil amendments, including AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/pythium-root-rot-in-turf/https://www2.ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/turfgrass/Pythium-Root-Rot/

https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/pythium-diseases-of-turf

https://plantpath.psu.edu/pythium/module-1/disease

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/tag/pythium-root-rot/

https://www.uaex.edu/publications/pdf/fsa-7565.pdf

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r280100211.html

http://ccenassau.org/resources/-turfgrass-pythium-blight-and-root-rot

https://www.greencast.com.au/disease-foliage-andor-roots/pythium-root-rot

Photos:

https://www.greencast.com.au/disease-foliage-andor-roots/pythium-root-rot

https://www.environmentalscience.bayer.us/turf-and-ornamentals-management/golf-course-management/talking-turf/fall-winter-pythium-root-rot-in-bermudagrass-greens

https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/tag/root-rot/

#TurfKiller - Wild Parsnips

Thu, 18 Jun 2020 12:35:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION

Wild parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) is a biennial/perennial weed. When left unmanaged, it can reach 4 to 6 feet tall. The plant bears clusters of large flowers called umbels that spout from a hallowed and grooved thick stem. The umbels are typically 2-6 inches wide and contain many small, 5-petaled yellow-green flowers that bloom from June to late August. The rosette leaves alternate along the stem, are pinnately compound, and are distinct by egg-shaped leaflets with saw-tooth edges that are arranged in pairs along the stalk. These leaves get increasingly smaller near the top of the stem.

This weed is considered a biennial/perennial weed since it forms a rosette of basal leaves the first year, lives through winter, and then flowers the second year. Occasionally remaining in that rosette stage for more than a year like a perennial.

This plant will form a long thick taproot that is similar in appearance and smell to cultivated parsnips, hence the name. The roots are commonly smooth and cylindrical, but sometimes lateral roots will grow out from central taproot. Wild Parsnip can be confused with other similar-looking species like Golden alexander (Zizia aurea; native) or Prairie parsley (Polytaenia nuttallii; native).

Wild Parsnip’s method of spreading is through distributing seeds. it’s seeds’ can remain viable for several years. If this highly invasive weed is ignored, it can spread rapidly and develop into large monocultures that replace native animal and plant habitat entirely.

DAMAGE

Even well-established turf can be invaded-by-proxy as this weed can become established in landscapes or along wooded lots and distribute seeds in turfgrass areas. Once that infestation begins, it can form dense weeds in turf, fairways, fields or meadows and be very difficult to control without extensive mechanical or chemical control and appropriate PPE equipment to prevent injury from contact with plant.
Human health can also be impacted as this plant produces a compound in its leaves that when contacted with human skin in presence of sunlight will cause a rash that often leads to blisters and discoloration of the skin, known as phytophotodermatitus. If sap comes in contact with skin, avoid exposure to sunlight and immediately wash skin with soap and water. Seek medical attention, if required.

MANAGEMENT

Wild parsnip is found in open places with reduced shade. Eliminating the seed production is going to be key in controlling the Wild Parsnip. Despite it being very labor-intensive, mechanical removal can be an effective control method, but only with appropriate PPE to prevent contact damage to skin or eyes.

If mechanical control is preferred, please take note that Wild Parsnip does not flower all at once, the affected area must be monitored closely for several weeks to prevent seed distribution. Mowing or cutting stands before flowering in June will eliminate the majority of the mature plants and drastically reduce seed production. Make sure to wash equipment after words to prevent movement of seeds to new areas. The rosettes and recently bolted stems that haven’t seed-set yet, may be controlled by severing the tap root 1-2 inches below the soil surface. Careful monitoring required to remove re-sprouts and recently germinated seedlings and rosettes.

PREVENTION

Management plans that combine early spring and late fall applications of a foliar herbicide with the active ingredients, metsulfuron, 2,4-D or Dicamba have been effective at managing this weed and any newly germinating plants. Complete eradication may take a few years as Wild Parsnip seeds are very viable. Any regrowth to affected lawn area will also help prevent another infestation as more vegetation grows to compete for nutrients and reduces where the weed can reestablish itself.

Essentially, the less space there is for Wild Parsnips to grow, the less likely they are to reestablish in your turf. Healthy, full turf will help prevent the growth of this weed and many others. To stave off disease and weeds, you should adopt a seasonal fertilizer program to ensure your turf has the nutrients required to stay dense and strong. For professional fertilizers with herbicides to prevent and control weeds, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog . For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References: https://www.cleveland19.com/2019/06/26/types-invasive-weeds-that-can-kill-you-are-growing-ohio-this-season-osu-warns-graphic-photo/ http://nyis.info/invasive_species/wild-parsnip/ https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/wild-parsnip/ https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/pestmanagement/weedcontrol/noxiouslist/wildparsnip https://lcinvasives.org/invasives/target-invasives/wild-parsnip/ https://www.10tv.com/article/warning-issued-poisonous-deadly-plants-popping-ohio-2019-jul https://www.extension.iastate.edu/smallfarms/wild-parsnip-weed-watch https://ipcm.wisc.edu/blog/2016/07/wild-parsnip-an-expanding-problem-along-roadsides-in-wisconsin/

Photos: https://crops.extension.iastate.edu/ http://nyis.info/invasive_species/wild-parsnip/ https://ipcm.wisc.edu/blog/2016/07/wild-parsnip-an-expanding-problem-along-roadsides-in-wisconsin/ https://crops.extension.iastate.edu/blog/bob-hartzler/mowing-requires-management-be-effective

What's the Damage? Dollar Spot

Thu, 28 May 2020 21:14:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION

Dollar Spot is caused by the fungus sclerotinia homoeocarpa, which typically thrives in temperatures between 59˚- 85˚ Fahrenheit during long periods of wetness. It affects all species of warm- and cool-season turfgrasses. The turf disease gets its name from the silver dollar-sized, tan colored spots it typically leaves on a golf course’s putting greens. This persistent disease has the potential to be active from mid-May through October, optimal temperatures varying among biotypes of the fungus.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

This disease is characterized by sunken and round, circular patches that measure up to 2 inches on putting greens mowed under ½ inch. However, at mowing heights above ½ inch, Dollar Spot may expand up to above 6 inches. The first symptoms of Dollar Spot appear as small yellow spots on individual grass blades. This spot then expands to a straw-like yellow or tan band with dark-red or dark-brown borders, sometimes resembling an hourglass shape. The entire blade soon becomes bleached, and the infected areas enlarge. If left untreated, the spots may merge and form irregular shaped areas that are much larger than the typical 2 inches.

THREAT

The roots and lateral stems are not directly harmed by the fungus. However, the roots of affected turfgrass can be damaged from the toxins created by the mycelium that the fungus can produce. These toxins affect the uptake of water and nutrients , which causes the roots to enlarge, halt growth, and turn dark brown. While the grass can shed infected roots, the nutrients they contained are lost as well. As a result of those toxins still present, any replacement roots will likely also be affected.

NOTE: Dollar Spot patches are more prevalent in areas where air circulation and soil drainage are inadequate. If left untreated, the patches will merge and continue to grow and damage/kill turf.

HOW TO MANAGE

The disease may occur even if you have practiced proper turf management, but it is usually the most severe/prevalent when turfgrass is deficient in nitrogen . Using adequate levels of nitrogen in your turf fertilizer program , especially during the spring and early summer will help discourage disease growth.

Applying biostimulants like humic , seaweed extract and beneficial bacteria’s can be effective in preventing Dollar Spot since they have proven to improve a plants’ own defensive system to many stresses, including disease. Biostimulants trigger chemical messengers, plant hormones that tell plants when stressful environmental conditions exist and to prepare the plant accordingly. Research shows that materials like humic substances will stimulate the production of antioxidants and enhance photosynthetic activity in plants. This results in turfgrass’s improved tolerance of abiotic and biotic stresses like disease infection.

Cultural management is usually the first choice in managing Dollar Spot, but in some instances, fungicide can also be an effective treatment. Unfortunately, this disease has a resistance to some fungicides (benzimidazole and DMI fungicides). Be sure to choose a fungicide labeled for dollar spot treatment. Lawn diseases will usually require multiple applications of fungicide and timing of those applications must be precise for maximum efficacy. For best results, apply at first appearance of Dollar Spot. Due to how it flourishes in humidity and leaf wetness, flexible irrigation practices should be considered. Turf irrigation should be based on the moisture status of the soil, as opposed to scheduling. If watering is required, watering should take place around 6AM to keep leaf wetness periods short.

Proper mowing practices should be adopted by mowing grass and removing subsequent thatch at regular intervals. This should allow more airflow and sunlight for turfgrass to discourage prolonged wetness. Golf course putting greens should be a erated routinely along with topdressing with sand to help reduce buildup of thatch . Washing equipment after mows and limiting foot traffic through infected areas will help manage the spread of the disease.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.syngentacropprotection.com/assets/assetlibrary/syngenta_diseaseid_guide.pdf

https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/dollar-spot

https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/lawn-diseases.html

https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-3075https://extension2.missouri.edu/ipm1029?p=8

https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/dollar-spot-in-turf/

http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/ppa/ppa1/ppa1.pdf

https://ugaurbanag.com/methods-to-maximize-efficacy-of-turfgrass-fungicides/

https://extension.msstate.edu/sites/default/files/publications/publications/p2455.pdf

Photos:

https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-3075

Calibrate Your Spreader

Mon, 11 May 2020 14:33:00 GMT

By the end of this publication, you will have learned how to check the distribution pattern of your spreader, determine the spreader’s effective spread width, and calculate the best application rate to most effectively apply your fertilizer.

DETERMINE AND ADJUST DISTRIBUTION PATTERN: CREATE SPREADER CALIBRATION KIT

It is very important that the spinner plate distributes the fertilizer product evenly right to left because if one side gets more than the other, over application and turf banding/striping will occur. To determine the pattern of the spreader and get the most uniform application for your granular fertilizer, we must first create some pans for catching your fertilizer and determining the distribution pattern.

Collect 11-15 boxes or pans - 1 X 3 ft in size, 2 inches deep. (11 boxes if your granules are small; SGN > 150, 15 boxes if your granules are large; SGN < 150).
Create paper baffles to prevent fertilizer from bouncing out of your box – for each box, cut 30 12 in x 2 in strips of paper, cut slits at 2 inch intervals (each strip should have 5 slits) fit 5 strips across 5 other strips together using the slits, 3 sets of 10 strips should fit in each box.
Gather 11-15 (11 for small granules, 15 for large granules) clear containers to be used to measure each box’s contents, clear tubes are recommended, but clear cups can be used, please ensure each container can hold 1 to 4 fluid ounces.
An optional rack/display is recommended to display your containers to assess the pattern efficiently.

DETERMINE AND ADJUST DISTRIBUTION PATTERN: PREPARE AND EXECUTE

Follow these steps to determine and adjust the pattern of your spreader, you will be taking notes of your spreader settings, so have a notepad handy.

Place boxes side-by-side in a line perpendicular to the spreader’s path. With one box in the middle for the spreader to pass over, there should be sufficient space on either side of the box for the spreader wheels to pass. One box in the middle and then equal number of boxes on both sides evenly spaced apart. Space the boxes up to 12 inches apart depending on the granule size and impeller speed.
Choose a starting point for your application rate that is similar to your final rate setting, the fertilizer bag should have a suggested setting for your spreader.
Set an estimate pattern adjustment, (ex. opening size of third hold adjustment, adjusting the sliding gate, or rotating the conical distribution device, depending on model/type of spreader). Initial adjustment is a starting point, further adjustments will be made until fertilizer distribution is uniform.
Fill hopper at least halfway with fertilizer. Pass over the boxes several times. Note the spreader’s speed, gear, and RPM and any other control so you can maintain it consistently later during applications.
Time to measure what we’ve collected in the boxes. After you pour the contents of each box into its corresponding container, make sure to leave the boxes in their original places, we will need to measure them later. Arrange the containers in the same pattern as their corresponding boxes, side-by-side, optionally on a tube rack, with the center box’s container also in the center. With all of the containers next to each other, it is easy to see the patterns of your fertilizer distribution and whether it needs adjusting.
If necessary, adjust the spreader pattern adjustment setting and then repeat steps 4 and 5.

DETERMINE YOUR SPREADER’S EFFECTIVE SPREAD WIDTH

Now that you’ve adjusted the spreader to get equal amounts of fertilizer to the right and left sides of the spreader, it’s time to determine the effective spread width. Use this to determine what width your spreader is effective and how to use it in efficient coverage.

First, of the collected product in containers, find the two containers on either side of the center container that have about half the product of the center container.
Then, go to the box on the left side that corresponds to the container that collected half the product.
Measure the distance between this box and the corresponding box on the right and mark it, that is your effective spread width.

 CALCULATE AND APPLY THE PROPER APPLICATION RATE

Determine the rate in which you want to apply your fertilizer per 1,000 sq. ft. How much nitrogen you need to apply per 1,000 square feet is your rate. For example, a 20-0-0 bag contains 20 percent of Nitrogen per pound. Divide the desired Nitrogen rate by the percentage of Nitrogen the product contains to get the amount of fertilizer to apply. (Ex. 1 lb / 0.20 = 5 lbs of fertilizer).
Set the length of the calibration course by taking 1000 and divide by effective spread width (measured earlier) (Ex. 1000 ft2 / 11 ft = 91 ft. This means calibration course is 11 ft wide by 91 feet long), place markers at start and finish of calibration course.
Set a gate opening, based on the fertilizer bag, manufacturer recommendations, etc. This is a starting point for rate calibration.
Pour the whole bag of fertilizer into the hopper, or a measured amount, the important point is that the amount is exact.
Apply the product over the calibration course, then use a clean and empty vacuum to vacuum the remaining fertilizer from the hopper and weight the amount. Subtract the empty weight of the bucket, and then how much fertilizer was left in hopper after course run. The total fertilizer amount should be subtracted by what was left in hopper, the remaining lbs is the rate of application. (ex: 25 lbs (total) – 20 lbs (in hopper) = 5 lbs per 1,000 square feet).
Adjust spreader, if necessary. Repeat step 4 to 5 (to avoid lawn burning, don’t reapply to same calibration course).
Record the speed, gear, RPM, impeller speed setting (if applicable) and gate opening for future reference.

To learn how to calibrate additional spreaders and sprayers visit: https://ppp.purdue.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/PPP-104.pdf

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://ppp.purdue.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/PPP-104.pdf

https://www.siteone.com/medias/sys_master/root/h4c/h77/8919303094302/Lesco-SpreaderDropCalibration.pdf

#TurfKiller - Mole Cricket

Mon, 11 May 2020 13:38:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION

Mole crickets are an unusual family of crickets that live underground. They have distinct front legs that assist them in tunneling through soil, hence how they get their name, "Mole" crickets. They are a common pest that can be found around the world and throughout the United States but are most know to be an issue in the south, damaging crops and turfgrass alike.

There are actually several different species of mole crickets: the tawny (Neoscapteriscus vicinus), southern (Neoscapteriscus borellii), and short-winged (Neoscapteriscus abbreviates) mole crickets. The northern mole cricket (Neocurtilla hexadactyla) is the only species not considered a pest.

DAMAGE

Mole cricket damage is characterized by small networks of underground paths with elevated and bulged-up soil. The crickets damage grass seedings, foliage and stem tissue above ground and while below ground, (roughly 20 cm from the surface) they feed on roots and tubers. They tunnel below soil surface up to 20 feet per night dislodging plants and exposing the grass roots to desiccation, which causes them to dry out from reduced ability for water intake. They can lay 25 to 60 eggs beneath the soil, upon hatching, they burrow to the soil surface to feed (typically during the evening hours). The damage these ‘nymphs’ cause increases as they disperse and grow to adulthood.

The presence of theses creatures are not only damaging on their own, but they also attract larger turf-destroying predators such as raccoons, moles, skunks and voles.

The mole crickets are active year-around in southern states, but do most of their damage in spring from March until June, or in the fall from late August to early October.

MANAGEMENT

Before you even begin a control program, you need to determine you actually have a mole cricket infestation. First, mix 3 tablespoons of dish soap with 2 gallons of water, pour solution over suspected infested area. If you’re infested, the mole crickets will emerge from their burrows rather quickly, if present. It is then you can catch and neutralize them.

Cultural controls include not mowing your turf shorter than recommended and being sure to use a sharp blade when you mow. Proper irrigation practices as well as maintaining a neutral soil pH can also help to reduce the chance of Mole Cricket infestations.

Biological controls such as the Larra Wasp (larra bicolor), which is a natural enemy of each of the invasive mole cricket species, exist and require the planting of favored flowering plants to attract them to the area.

Another beneficial organism that will swim through soil and attack adult mole crickets are the parasitic nematodes, or microscopic round worms found in the mole cricket’s native South America. Once the nematode has entered the mole cricket’s body, a bacterium is released, killing the cricket and allowing the nematode to reproduce several hundred more to continue searching the soil for more hosts.

Granular fertilizer plus an insecticide is recommended to control these pests and repair the damage to the roots and stems of the turfgrass affected. Insecticides (Active Ingredients, AI's) such as bifenthrin and imidacloprid ( found in brands like Allectus, Merit and Talstar) have proven to be effective methods of control. These technologies have sufficient residual activity so that applications for control of subsurface feeders, such as mole crickets, can be made preceding the egg-laying activity. It is recommended that you follow application with sufficient irrigation or rainfall to move the active ingredient into the soil.

PREVENTION

If you are in an area, which is prone to mole cricket damage or if you have had an infestation in the past, prevention is key. Typically, once an infestation is discovered the damage may be to grave repair. Annual applications of control products (example: Allectus, Merit and Talstar) are often recommended because an area that has been infested by mole crickets are likely to be re-infested. It would be wise to keep a record of these preferred mole cricket habitats for future application.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1021

https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/mole-crickets/

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/ORN/TURF/pest_mole_crickets.htm

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/mole-cricket-in-turf

https://stoppestinfo.com/263-how-to-get-rid-of-mole-crickets.html

http://media.clemson.edu/public/turfgrass/2018%20Pesticide%20RECS/2018%20Pest%20Control%20Recommendations.pdf

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/mole-cricket-management-in-turfgrass/

https://www.turfcaresupply.com/upload/documents/label/903064.pdf

Photos:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LyraEDISServlet?command=getImageDetail&image_soid=FIGURE%202&document_soid=IN1021&document_version=84502

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LyraEDISServlet?command=getImageDetail&image_soid=FIGURE%203&document_soid=IN1021&document_version=84502

https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/mole-crickets/

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LyraEDISServlet?command=getImageDetail&image_soid=FIGURE%2013&document_soid=IN1021&document_version=84502

#TurfTech - What are the benefits of Nitrogen Inhibitors?

Tue, 03 Mar 2020 14:34:00 GMT

WHAT IS A NITROGEN INHIBITOR? A nitrogen inhibitor is a substance used to inhibit the biological oxidation of ammonium nitrogen (NH4-N) to nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N) in soil (this biological oxidation process is known as Nitrification) as well as help manage the conversion of urea to ammonia and carbon dioxide until adequate rain or irrigation can occur. To put it more simply, this just means it slows down nitrogen from being lost to the atmosphere through volatilization prior to water being applied to the fertilizer as well as working to slow soil bacteria from converting ammonium into nitrate, which is highly subject to denitrification and leaching.

WHY IS THIS TECHNOLOGY IMPORTANT?

Nitrogen inhibitors are an important technology added to fertilizer because it allows the nitrogen in the NH4-N to be held tightly within the soil particles, ultimately letting nitrogen to be available longer for plants, increasing overall health of the plant. This technology helps manage the three main reasons for nitrogen loss to your grass: denitrification, volatilization and leaching.

INHIBITOR TECHNOLOGY

To provide the most efficient use of nitrogen for your plants, three different technologies are commonly used to help create nitrogen inhibitors. Here is the breakdown of the technology:

Urease Inhibitor: NBPT (n-butyl thiophosphoric triamide)

NBPT helps inhibit the conversion of urea to ammonia and carbon dioxide until adequate rain or irrigation can occur. This is done with a urease enzyme, which inhibits hydrolytic action on urea. When applied to soil it blocks the conversion of urea nitrogen lost by ammonia volatilization from a period of 1-2 weeks. Specifically helps manage volatilization (works above the ground).

Nitrification Inhibitor: DCD (dicyandiamide)

DCD is a substance used to help to inhibit the biological oxidation of ammonium nitrogen (NH4-N) to nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N). DCD specifically inhibits leaching and decertification (works in soil). No harm is done to microbes when DCD is applied to a lawn. In Allen Sutton’s presentation from The Fertilizer Institute, Urease and Nitrification Inhibitors he says:

In the soil DCD has a bacteriostatic effect on Nitrosomonas bacteria, i.e. the bacteria are not killed, but only depressed or inhibited in their activities for a certain period of time. Even several applications have only led to a depressive effect on Nitrosomonas bacteria (Sturm et al; 1944).

WHY USE NITROGEN INHIBITOR TECHNOLOGY?

Using fertilizer with nitrogen inhibitor technology can actively slow the rate at which the ammonia is converted to nitrate. By slowing the conversion process ammonia to nitrate, you are keeping that nitrogen in a more stable form that is not as vulnerable to losses, creating more efficient use of nitrogen for plants as well as reducing the emission of ammonia and greenhouse gases.

NOTE: Nitrogen inhibitor technology is not a “cure-all” to nitrification. It is just one of many technologies used to manage nitrogen loss. Mother Nature, soil texture, weather, soil pH and the timing of a nitrogen application can affect your plants nitrogen uptake. These factors are always trying to undermine nitrogen availability to your plants through leaching, denitrification and volatilization.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Ammonia: a nutrient that contains nitrogen and hydrogen; preferred nitrogen-containing nutrient for plant growth. Can be converted to nitrite (NO2 ) and nitrate (NO3) by bacteria, and then used by plants.
Nitrate: the form of nitrogen that the plants can use that is taken up by the roots.
Urease: An enzyme that catalyzes the hydrolysis of urea, forming ammonia and carbon dioxide; present throughout soil and becomes active when Urea comes in contact with the soil.
Urea: a chemical compound; a colorless, crystalline substance that is an inexpensive compound incorporated in mixed fertilizers to manage nitrogen release.
Hydrolysis: The chemical breakdown of a compound due to water.
Leaching: this is caused when nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N) in soil is moved below that plant’s rooting zone. This can be cause by environmental concern if the problem persists.
Denitrification: this is caused when nitrate nitrogen(NO3-N) in soil is converted togas.
Volatilization: When nitrogen(N) changes into ammonia (NH3) and escapes into the atmosphere.

Check out our infographic showing the Inefficient vs. Efficient Nutrient Uptake Cycle of Plants .

References:

http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/agr/agr185/agr185.pdf

http://www.firt.org/sites/default/files/Sutton_Inhibitors%26Stabilizers_presentation.pdf

http://www.isafarmnet.com/Advance/AdvanceMarch24_2016_4.pdf

https://www.britannica.com/science/urease

http://www.waterboards.ca.gov/water_issues/programs/swamp/docs/cwt/guidance/3310en.pdf

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weeds - Cogongrass

Thu, 05 Dec 2019 13:33:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION

Perennial grass that varies greatly in appearance. The seeds are cylindrical in shape, 2-8 inches in length, are silvery white in color and resemble light fluffy dandelion-like seeds. However, the seeds are briefly visible as cogongrass flowers for only a short time. It can be identified by bright green leaves that grow from 4 inches to up to 6 feet in height. The leaves have sharp serrated margins and a distinctive white midrib. Though another distinctive feature is that cogongrass lacks above-ground stems, as leaves arise directly from the this weed's rhizomes.

HOW TO MANAGE

If cogongrass has invaded your turf, then you need to take aggressive action before it spreads. Tiling or digging out the grassy weed can be an option; however, you can run the additional risk of spreading the rhizomes and increasing the invasion. Multiple treatments of a non-selective herbicide are recommended to control and completely eradicate the weed. The best way to avoid this weed is prevention. Regular nutrient treatments and applying a pre-emergent herbicide will keep your turfgrass healthy and dense, reducing the chance of a weed infestation and assuring you maintain your beautiful turf.

For more information on our Combo Herbicides , Click Here .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov/profile/cogongrass#cit

http://southernforesthealth.net/plants/cogongrass/cogongrass-biology-and-management-in-the-southeastern-u.s

https://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/plant-directory/imperata-cylindrica/

https://www.cogongrass.org/identification/

Photos:

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/cogongrass/

https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/forestry-wildlife/stop-cogongrass-hitchhikers/

WHERE IT GROWS

It is found on every continent, although it does not tolerate cool temperatures. In US, cogongrass extends as far west as Texas and as north as South Carolina. It infests turf, ditch banks, pastures, golf courses, and along forest tree lines. It thrives on low-fertility soils from fine sand to heavy clay.

IMPACT

This weed has two methods of spreading: the dispersing of its 3000 seeds per plant by way of wind currents, but the main way it spreads is through a network of rhizomes. When established, this perennial weed is very difficult to get rid of. In areas with killing frosts, the leaves will turn light brown during winter months and present a serious fire hazard. 60 percent of its growth is below the surface in a dense web of sprawling, dirt-hugging roots. This allows the plant’s rhizomes to cause physical injury to other plants by penetrating roots with its sharp rhizome tips. Like many other weeds, it is highly competitive for water and nutrients.

2019 GIE EXPO - TurfCare Event Schedule - Booth #21104

Tue, 08 Oct 2019 04:00:00 GMT

JOIN TURFCARE AT THE LARGEST GREEN INDUSTRY EVENT OF THE YEAR, THE GIE EXPO! STOP BY OUR BOOTH FOR NEW AND EXCITING EVENTS YOU WON'T WANT TO MISS... PLUS FREE COFFEE*!

Not attending the GIE EXPO? Follow us @turfcaresupply for event updates and live coverage... so you won't miss a thing!

*Free coffee 10/17-10/18 at our booth from 9am-11!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Behind the Scenes Interview with Nicole Gerome

Fri, 04 Oct 2019 04:00:00 GMT

In 2018, TurfCare met professional female golfer Nicole Gerome. Nicole first caught our attention because of her extraordinary talent, hard work and passion for the sport but it was her story that stole our heart. Still early in her career, Nicole has courageously faced and overcome serious hurdles that have already made her an inspiration to many. Which is why TurfCare felt inspired to sponsor the talent and dreams of Nicole as she plays her way to the LPGA! Learn more about Nicole in this behind the scenes interview and meet her at our booth #21104 at the upcoming #GIEEXPO in Louisville, KY 10/16-10/18. Come challenge her to putt-putt, take pictures and get an autographed golf ball! Follow @turfcaresupply to get GIE EXPO event updates and schedule.

Q: "Nicole, why did you first choose to play golf?"

Nicole Gerome: "I started playing golf when I was six years old. I really didn’t choose golf. Golf choose me. I absolutely love the game."

Q: "What makes you want to continue to play golf?"

Nicole Gerome: "I continue to play golf because it’s my passion and I absolutely love the game. It’s a sport you can play for a lifetime. Also I love being outdoors and the scenery is absolutely breathtaking on a golf course."

Q: "If you could achieve anything in golf right now, what would it be?"

Nicole Gerome: "My dream is to make it to the LPGA (Ladies Professional Golf Association)"

Q: "How are you preparing to reach this goal in your career?"

Nicole Gerome: "I play and practice a lot. I have the best swing coaches. I also have a physical trainer and a mental coach that I work with. I also read mental/religious books to keep believing in myself."

Q: "What is the biggest hurdle you have had to face in your life and golf thus far?"

Nicole Gerome: "My biggest hurdle was when I found out that I have a rare heart condition. The doctors explained to me that my heart continually stops and they had no idea why. It’s a rare case, there are only four others in the world they know have it. With surgery and medicine I am blessed to say it’s under control.. but I still struggle on some days. My medication sometimes makes me dizzy which is not good for golf, especially when you are trying to putt haha."

Q: "What is your favorite part about playing professional golf?"

Nicole Gerome: "My favorite part about playing professional golf is the thrill of competing with women all over the world. I also love traveling and meeting lots of new people on the way."

Q: "What do you dislike the most about playing professional golf?"

Nicole Gerome: "My least favorite thing about playing professional golf is leaving my family. I’m very close with my family and leaving them is very hard for me."

Q: "Do you have any superstitious things you do before a tournament?"

Nicole Gerome: "Before a tournament I have to read my daily readings and listen to my worship music. Oh, and my socks must match every game... and i'm not sure if i would call it a superstition, but when i'd be having an off day, when i was young my dad would draw a smily face on my ball (which he still does when he comes to tournaments) and I sometimes do the same to cheer myself up and get my head back in the game. "

Q: "What is your favorite golf course you’ve played on?"

Nicole Gerome: "My favorite course that I’ve played on so far is Nemacolin in PA."

Q: "Who is your biggest inspiration in golf and/or life?"

N icole Gerome: "My biggest inspiration in golf is Annika Sörenstam. In life my biggest inspiration is Bethany Hamilton."

Q: "What keeps you motivated after a bad day or defeat?"

Nicole Gerome: "After a defeat I always go over my shots and how I can improve for the next tournament. My faith always keeps me motivated. I also have the best support system around me that helps me to be the best version of myself and motivates me to do better as well."

Q: "How do you prepare for a tournament mentally and physically?"

Nicole Gerome: "I read religious/mental books to help me prepare for a tournament. I also study the course and take a lot of notes during practice. Also I have a golf coach to help me get ready mentally for a tournament as well. I also get on a good sleep schedule because sleep and resting is so important. I do a lot of stretching, cardio, and lift for endurance. Day of tournament I stretch and hydrate well."

Q: "What would you tell a young girl inspiring to be a golf pro?"

Nicole Gerome: "Being a professional athlete is a lifestyle that consumes every aspect of your life-- your free time, your body, and social life. You have to make a lot of sacrifices. It’s not easy but if you want it bad enough. Go for it! There are not too many people that are courageous enough to fight for what they really want in life. Don’t let anyone or anything stop you chasing your dreams. Always do what makes you happy, because you will never know unless you try."

Q: "What would you like to give back to your sport or community?"

Nicole Gerome: "I want to bring back fun in women’s golf and encourage more people to watch. I would also want to represent my community and volunteer on school golf teams. Most importantly, to get more girls to play golf.

To follow Nicole and cheer her on as she plays her way to the LPGA, check her out @nicolegerome

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weeds - Bindweed

Tue, 24 Sep 2019 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

A broadleaf perennial that is one of the most difficult to control and persistent weeds in landscapes and crops. Its strong root and rhizome system prevents the possibility of removing the weed through cultivation, and in most cases, it actually makes the infestation worse. Its seeds have can be viable for up to 60 years. It’s important to control this weed early, because its roots can reach up to 20 feet. It is considered to be one of the most noxious weeds because of it’s yield-robbing practices in crops and landscapes.

HOW TO IDENTIFY This weed has winding and twining stems that grow along the ground up to 6.5 in length and often get wrapped up in other plants and structures. The flowers are bell-shaped, with white to pinkish petals. Leaves grow alternate and are arrow-head in shape.

WHERE IT GROWS

This plant can flourish in sun or shade and is extremely drought-tolerant. It’s found in fields, turf, farmland and residential areas.

HOW TO MANAGE

It’s recommended to use herbicides technologies like Lazer® to help prevent the weed from growing before it emerges. Herbicides can also be used after the weed has been established, but it’s more difficult. It’s especially difficult if herbicides are not used, as pulling the weed will only result in regrowth, as the roots are left in the soil and the plant regenerates within 2 weeks.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7462.html

https://www.kingcounty.gov/services/environment/animals-and-plants/noxious-weeds/weed-identification/field-bindweed.aspx

https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/bidding-farewell-dreaded-bindweed

Photographs:

https://www.nwcb.wa.gov/weeds/field-bindweed

What's the Damage? - Chinch Bugs

Sat, 29 Jun 2019 04:00:00 GMT

CHINCH BUG LAWN DAMAGE

When this pest gets hungry, it uses its tube-like mouth to pierce into a plant’s tissue and sucks out the nutrients. It then secretes an anticoagulant that clogs the vascular tissues within the turf causing it to turn a purplish tint. Without the ability to absorb water, the leaves wither from drought and none of the nourishment gets to the roots, resulting in plant death. This is why Chinch Bug damage often gets mixed up with drought damage.

WHERE TO FIND

These insects are frequent to home lawns and can often be found during times of drought. These pests can be found in open, sunny areas. Chinch Bugs favorite flavors of grass include, but aren’t limited to: Kentucky Bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, bent grass, and red fescues.

HOW TO IDENTIFY THESE PESTS The adults are 3.5 mm long and 0.75 mm wide. Males are typically smaller than females. The abdomen, pronotum and head vary from gray to black and are covered in fine hairs. Wings are white with a black spot located in the middle of the front-wing edge. The legs are often burnt orange. Nymphs (immature Chinch Bugs) take on the same shape but are about half the size of an adult. Nymphs can often be found with orange or red markings and have yet to develop wings.

INFESTATION SEASON

Normally occurs in July and mid-late August. Chinch Bugs do not become active until temperatures reach 50°F and above. Once temperatures reach 50°F or higher, adults become active, mate and lay eggs. A single female Chinch Bug can produce an average of 300 eggs over the course of 40-50 days. The eggs will hatch 1-2 weeks after to begin the new generation of Chinch Bugs (it takes 4-6 weeks for the new generation to become mature to start the breeding process over again).

HOW TO MANAGE

Chinch Bug has been a problem since the 1780s when they were known to destroy large crops of grain. They are relatively easy to control if caught early, before they mature. The best way to get rid of them is to treat your lawn with an insecticide labeled for Chinch Bugs like Talstar . If you are unsure of whether or not you have Chinch Bugs, take an empty coffee can and remove the bottom and top. Pour some water over the edge of the affected area to soften the ground, if necessary. The pests can usually be found on the edges of the affected area as they consume more and more nutrients from grass blades. Push the coffee can 4 inches or so into the soil and pour water until ¾ of the can are filled. Agitate or stir the water inside, refill as necessary. In several minutes Chinch Bugs will float to the surface (be careful not to mistake them for big-eyed bugs).

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-2503-11

https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/chinch_bug_turf_tips_for_the_homeowner

https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/chinch-bugs

http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/chinch-bugs-in-home-lawns

http://dufferinlawnlife.com/allaboutbugs/

https://ag.umass.edu/turf/insect-management/turf-insects-damage-scouting

Pictures:

https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-2503-11

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weed - Spotted Spurge

Mon, 13 May 2019 04:00:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION AND WHERE TO FIND

Spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculate) is a summer annual weed with a taproot that is native to the Eastern United States. It’s often found to invade crops, gardens, trees, citrus, turf, ornamental beds, fields in sidewalk cracks and thin lawns. It thrives in poor, compacted soil and generally in unshaded areas and grows in mats which will choke out turfgrasses. It grows close to the ground and easily survives short mowing because of its ability to for its branches to grow freely from the base. When the stems are broken, they emit a poisonous milk-like secretion. Although this secretion is currently being studied for various skin cancers cures, it is still an eye and skin irritant and should be avoided, unless proper PPE is worn.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

These weeds produce tiny pink flowers that, along with the fruit, stems and leaves, are hairy. The flowers will be followed by small fruits whose seeds are distinctly hairy and stick easily to animal fur and human shoes when wet. It has dark green leaves with red leaf spots which grow in pairs, are roughly 1/8 to 1/2 inch long and 1/8 inch wide. The red spot is typically found halfway down the center vein, though only 95% of the time. If conditions are right, a single plant can grow three feet across from the central taproot. The stems will branch out from a central point and will not root at the nodes.

THREAT TO ANIMALS AND HUMANS

The sap that is secreted from the stems is a skin irritant to both humans and animals, especially dogs, as they are particularly prone to itching because they are closer to ground and more likely to come into contact. Is very toxic to animals if certain percentage of body weight were ingested, especially amongst grazing animals such as horses, cattle and sheep. The seeds of the plant attract ants and other pests and one plant can emit thousands of seeds in one season whose seeds can germinate immediately or remain dormant for years. The plant has also been known to be a host for fungal diseases that can damage turf.

HOW TO MANAGE

The most effective method is prevention, since after it’s established, this weed is very difficult to get rid of. Maintaining a dense and actively growing turf though appropriate mowing, fertilizing and watering practices can prevent the growth of this weed. Reducing compaction in the soil can also assist in prevention. Small infestations on lawns can be maintained by hand removal, but PPE should be worn to prevent irritation, especially if seeds have already grown. For more extensive infestations, an herbicide would be more practical. If pulled out, because of its long taproot, if any part of the weed’s roots are left behind, it will begin to grow again.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7445.html

https://wimastergardener.org/article/spotted-spurge-chamaesyce-euphorbia-maculata/

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/spotted-spurge

Photographs:

https://wimastergardener.org/article/spotted-spurge-chamaesyce-euphorbia-maculata/

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weed - Puncture Vine

Thu, 02 May 2019 04:00:00 GMT

DESCRIPTION AND WHERE TO FIND

Puncture Vine (Tribulus terrestris) appropriately named, is a summer annual broadleaf weed that’s mostly found in dry climates throughout the United States. It is native to southern Europe and grows in a number of different conditions, but it flourishes in hot and dry conditions where many plants cannot survive. It is a noxious weed that can wreak havoc on orchards, pastures, turf and along roadsides, where conditions are ideal. Although the plant does not look threatening, it can be toxic to sheep and cattle, and to the human touch with its incredibly spiky seedpods. The seedpods look very similar to caltrops, which are metal, spiked devices historically used to slow troops or puncture vehicle tires. These seedpods have the same capability, with a hard spiked casing they can injure livestock, people, pets and even bicycle and ATV tires.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

The puncture vine grows low to the ground and usually forms very thick growths 2 to 5 feet in diameter. The reddish-brown stems grow radially from a woody taproot and doesn’t root from the stems. Flowers are yellow and small that grow on short stalks at the leaf nodes. Flowers grow solitary and have 5 petals, 5 sepals and 10 stamens that develop into burs with stout spines. The leaves grow opposite of each other, have short stalks and are about 1 to 3 inches long. It grows numerous and dense stems that grow up to 6 feet long. The fruit are caltrop-like, with sharp rigid spines.

THREAT TO ANIMALS AND HUMANS

It is a huge nuisance to humans and threateningly toxic to livestock. During the 1900s, puncturevine was a big problem on roadsides as it’s burs easily punctured tires of vehicles. The weed has the ability to produce 200 to up to 5,000 seeds in one growing season, and the buried seed usually can remain viable for 3 to 6 years. This can cause a real danger to livestock and pets as it can injure the mouth and digestive tract, if ingested. The hard-cased burrs have the potential to pierce hooves, shoes, paws and even bicycle and ATV tires. Due to its very deep taproot, puncturevine aggressively contends for water and nutrients from crops, trees and turf.

HOW TO MANAGE

Mowing will be ineffective due to the low growth form of the plant. Hand-pulling can be effective, if the population is low, but should be done before any spiny fruit develop. Burrs should be collected and removed by sweeping or raking the ground. Patting the ground with a piece of carpet has also proven to work well. Herbicide should be applied to ensure regrowth is subsided, but burrs will still need to be removed by hand. After control is managed, plant with area suitable plants to provide contention for nutrients and reduce further invasion.

For more information on our Combo Herbicides, Click Here .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74128.html

https://www.nwcb.wa.gov/weeds/puncturevine

https://wric.ucdavis.edu/information/crop/natural%20areas/wr_T/Tribulus

https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=24478

Photographs:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/californianativeplants/6196644063

JOE KNOWS! Cation Exchange Capacity - What Is CEC and How Does It Impact Soil Fertility?

Tue, 19 Mar 2019 04:00:00 GMT

CATION EXCHANGE CAPACITY - WHAT IS CEC & HOW DOES IT IMPACT SOIL FERTILITY?

Why is it that turf doesn’t grow well on a sandy beach? Why do some soils leach nutrients more so than others? What are the characteristics of a ‘fertile’ soil versus a ‘nutrient-deficient’ soil? These questions are directly related to a term that is often mentioned in the turf and soil sciences, but not well understood by many in the industry. In this feature, we’ll examine what cation exchange capacity is, and the direct impact is has on soil fertility and overall plant health. With a greater understanding of CEC, you’ll be able to understand what’s going on in your soils and how to fix or enhance them should they need adjusting.

CEC 4 – It’s no secret that turfgrass doesn’t grow well in sand. Why is this? What characteristics of sand make plant growth difficult? What effect does sand have on CEC?

WHAT IS CATION EXCHANGE CAPACITY?

Strictly by definition, CEC is a measure of how many cations can be retained on soil particle surfaces. In other words, some soils are good at holding water and nutrients in place, while others are poor. In order to understand how CEC works, we need to go back in time and briefly review some basic high school chemistry concepts.

In nature, many elements and ions have either a positive or negative charge. Just as with electromagnets, opposites attract. Take for example table salt (sodium chloride, or NaCl). In nature, a sodium (Na) atom has a positive charge of +1, and a chlorine (Cl) atom has a negative charge of -1. When the two elements interact, they form an ionic bond and the two charges neutralize each other, meaning the net charge of NaCl is 0. This is important because most macro and micronutrients plant's needs aren’t delivered in their pure elemental form; they are delivered in ion form and are derived from ionic compounds. For example, plants need potassium (K), but we don’t spread pure potassium on the ground because pure potassium is highly reactive in its elemental form. Instead, we spread muriate of potash (MOP) which has a chemical formula of KCl (otherwise written K+ Cl-). Much in the way table salt dissolves in water into Na+ and Cl- ions, when MOP is spread onto turf, water eventually splits up the K+ and Cl- ions. Once the K+ ions are dissolved, they quickly find negatively charged soil particles and temporarily stick to them until plant roots find and take up the K+ ions. While there are many other factors at work (presence of other ions in the soil, soil pH, etc.), this is the basis for how plant nutrient uptake works.

CEC 5 – The diagram above shows how sodium and chlorine ions (NaCl, table salt) are normally bound together tightly into a crystal, however when water is added, the Na+1 and Cl-1 ions split apart. A similar reaction takes place in the soil with macro and micronutrient raw ingredients in the presence of water. Once ionic compounds split apart into ions with positive and negative charges, they can find soil particles and ‘stick’ to them while maintaining their ion forms.

Most fertilizer micronutrients, as well as a few macronutrients, have a positive charge of +1 or +2. An ion that has a positive charge is called a ‘cation.’ Conversely, an ion that has a negative charge called an ‘anion.’ When fertilizer cations fail to stick to negatively charged soil particles and wash out of the root zone, it’s called ‘leaching.’ When this happens, fertilizer inputs are unfortunately wasted.

HOW ARE CATIONS QUANTIFIED IN SOIL SAMPLES?

Now that we understand that all nutrients are taken up by plants in ion form (and not pure elemental form), we can better understand the concept behind CEC. Remember, CEC is the measure of how many cations can be retained on soil particle surfaces. Naturally, in order to determine the CEC of a soil, we would collect a soil sample and then use a laboratory method for precipitating (or ‘shaking loose and collecting’) all the cations that are stuck to the soil. Remember, nature tries to create stable systems, meaning nature doesn’t prefer ions with positive or negative charges lingering in a high energy state. This means, in order to shake the cations out of a soil sample, we must displace (or replace) our nutrient cations with different cations. Four commonly used laboratory reagents capable of performing this ‘cation exchange’ reaction are ammonium chloride, sodium acetate, ammonium acetate and barium chloride. (When you read a soil test report, it may indicate which testing reagent (or method) was used to determine the CEC.) Soil pH is the primary factor for determining which reagent is used. Once the reagent is selected, the solution is reacted with the soil sample. The amount of known testing reagent absorbed by the soil is calculated. This value can then be used to calculate the total amount of cations exchanged (or precipitated) by the soil.

Chart 1- The chart above shows a listing of the most common macro and micro nutrients and associated nutrient ions forms that exist in the soil (that plants can actually absorb). The presence of all cations in the soil (even ones not listed in this chart) can be used to help determine the total CEC value of a soil. Also note that many ions have a negative charge (-1, -2 or -3). These ‘anion’ nutrients cannot be detected using a cation exchange capacity test. Instead, one would have to perform an ‘anion exchange capacity’ test (AEC), which most laboratories do not perform (this is because most macro and micronutrient ions are cations).

WHAT IS A “CEC VALUE” AND WHAT DOES THAT NUMBER ACTUALLY MEAN?

CEC is measured in “millequivalents per 100 grams of soil” (units reported as = meq/100g). This value represents the number of cations the soil can hold in terms of the total number of electrical charges the soil can hold. For example, a single hydrogen ion (also called a ‘proton’) has a charge of +1 (H+1), but a single calcium ion has a charge of +2 (Ca+2). Let’s say we have a negatively charged soil particle that can only hold 2 positive charges (remember, opposites attract). That means our soil particle can either hold one calcium ion with a +2 charge, or two hydrogen ions (each with a +1 charge). Either way, the total CEC value of the soil will be the same because the soil only has room to hold two positive charges.

In summary, the higher the CEC value, the more positive charges the soil can hold. In other words, soils with higher CEC values can hold more cation nutrients, therefore higher CEC values are generally more desirable.

WHAT ARE TYPICAL CEC VALUES FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF SOILS?

CEC values of soils and soil components can range anywhere from virtually 0 to above 400, however most soils capable of supporting turfgrass and/or agronomic crops will fall somewhere between 5 and 50.

Soil CEC is greatly influenced by 3 factors:

1. Soil particle type (inorganic vs. organic matter)

Soils with lots of organic matter generally hold significantly more cations than soils with mostly inorganic matter. More organic matter generally leads to higher CEC values.

2. Particle size (i.e. sand vs. silt vs. clay)

‘More’ smaller particles per unit area generally hold more cations than ‘fewer’ larger particles per the same unit area. For example, sand, silt and clay are all made of the same material. Sand particles are the largest, followed by silt particles, and then clay. Clay particles are microscopic and can generally hold significantly more cations than silt or sand, therefore sandy soils generally have low CEC values, and clay soils generally have much higher CEC values.

3. Soil pH

More acidic soils tend to have lower CEC values. Soils that are close to neutral generally have higher CEC values. (Note: Soils that have high CEC values generally do not need a liming adjustment.)

Chart 2 - The chart above shows the typical range of CEC values for various soil types under neutral pH.

CEC1 – (above) – Remember, nutrients exist in the soil as cations and anions. Some soils do a much better job retaining nutrient cations than others. In general, clay can hold more cation nutrients per unit area than a sandy loam.

CEC 3 - (above) - Smaller soil particles (such as clay) generally adsorb more cation nutrients than larger particles (such as sand) because the total surface area of smaller particles is greater than the total surface area of larger particles when two samples of the same mass are packed into the same volume.

WHAT CEC VALUES ARE IDEAL FOR GROWING TURFGRASS? There are many varieties of turfgrasses, all of which have adapted to survive and thrive in a variety of soil types and climates. The one thing all turfgrasses have in common is the physiological need to absorb macro and micronutrients from the soil.

While there is no ‘perfect’ CEC value that fits every turfgrass variety, climate, and soil type, soil CEC values typically range between 12-25 for most well-performing turfgrasses.

Soils with CEC values below 12 are generally considered to be poor at holding cation nutrients. Soils with CEC values of less than 5 are considered extremely poor; these soils will struggle to support turfgrass, let alone other plant life. Soils with CEC values below 5 also struggle to hold water, leading to drought stress in plants that attempt to grow under such harsh conditions. Soils with CEC values above 25 are generally considered “excellent’ at holding nutrients in place; these soils do not usually require a liming application.

REAL CEC SCENARIOS:

I performed a soil test and I now know my soil’s CEC value. What are your recommendations for growing healthy, vibrant turfgrass based on my results?

IF YOUR CEC VALUE IS ABOVE 25…

Congratulations, it looks like you have excellent soil! This result suggests your soil is loaded with a healthy mix of organic matter. Your soil probably has a high clay content with very little silt or sand. Given these factors, your soil does an excellent job retaining fertilizer when you spread or spray it, meaning you probably don’t have much nutrient leaching going on under normal soil conditions. You still may want to aerate your soil at least once per year to reduce clay compaction. Your soil pH is likely near neutral, so it probably doesn’t need a lime adjustment (still check the pH to be sure). If your CEC is much higher than 25, you might be able to reduce your fertilizer application rate because your soil is very good at retaining nutrients. (For example, you might consider putting down .9 lbs of nitrogen instead of 1.0lbs N per 1000 sqft. NOTE: always perform a complete soil test with nutrient analysis, and consult with an agronomist before reducing or increasing your nutrient application rate.)

IF YOUR CEC VALUE IS BETWEEN 12 AND 25…

Overall, it looks like your soil is in pretty good shape. CEC values in this range are typical of most soils that support turfgrass growth. If your CEC values are in the bottom half of this range, you may want to consider supplementing organic matter into your soils. Lower CEC values generally indicate higher silt and sand content. Lower CEC values may also suggest your pH may need a minor adjustment, so a lime application might be recommended (if the soil is slightly acidic). Soils with lower CEC values usually benefit from more frequent fertilizer applications (this is because fertilizer doesn’t hold in the soil as efficiently as soils with higher CEC values). Be sure to have a soil test done with a complete nutrient analysis for further recommendations.

IF YOUR CEC VALUE IS BELOW 12…

Most soils with a CEC value below 12 need some help, either through soil enrichment using a variety of soil amendments, or increased applications of fertilizer, or both. These soils are typically high in sand and silt, and/or suffering from a deficiency in organic matter. Low CEC soils suffer from significant nutrient leaching in the presence of significant rain events or high water tables. Unfortunately, lower CEC values translate into wasted fertilizer inputs. For example, a sandy beach might have a CEC value of 3 or 4, meaning virtually no fertilizer will adsorb to sand granules in the root zone; nearly all of it will dissolve and wash away.

Practical Example: When new homes and buildings are constructed, organically poor soil is often brought to the surface. Attempting to seed or sod lawns atop poor soil is often met with disastrous results. If encountering this situation, make sure to top dress ‘construction zone’ soil with at least 6 inches of organically rich topsoil before seeding or sodding. This will significantly raise the soil’s CEC value and lead to faster rooting and better turf establishment.

WHAT ORGANIC COMPONENTS CAN I ADD TO THE SOIL TO RAISE MY CEC VALUE?

Organic materials have an incredible capacity to bind cation nutrients, as well as anion nutrients. If your soil consists mostly of sand or silt with very little organic matter (less than 2%), consider adding these components to the soil.

Humic Substances (also great for water retention and drought mitigation)
Humic acid
Fulvic acid
Processed/Purified Organic Waste Products (also a great source of macro and micronutrients)
Manure
Biosolids
Compost
Peat Moss

If possible, till these components into the top 6 inches of soil. Before adding these substances, make sure to perform a soil test to assess the pH. Ensure that any soil amendments added don’t shift the pH too radically such that the soil is no longer compatible with the variety of turfgrass you wish to grow. Once additional organic material has been added, perform one last soil test to recheck the pH. You can always raise the pH with gypsum / lime, or lower the pH with sulfur as needed.

CEC2 – (above) Humic and fulvic acids are forms of highly biodegraded organic matter that do an excellent job chelating (grabbing and temporarily holding) micronutrients in the soil. These organic substances have extremely high CEC values and can be used to enhance the water and nutrient holding capacity of soils with low CEC values.

FINAL THOUGHTS Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a powerful datapoint on a soil test. This single number tells us a lot about a soil’s ability to hold water and nutrients. It’s also a good indicator of what to expect in terms of a soil’s structure. A full soil test breaks down nutrient deficiencies one nutrient at a time and typically gives nutrient application recommendations. Understanding what CEC is and why it is important is the foundation for being able to read and interpret the results of a full soil test.

In a future installment of Turf Report, we’ll dive into how to read and interpret the results from a full soil test. Meanwhile, let’s get our soils conditioned so that they hold fertilizer more effectively and maximize turf health!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Sources:

http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1040&title=Cation%20Exchange%20Capacity%20and%20Base%20Saturation

https://labmodules.soilweb.ca/nutrients-cec/

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay.ay-238.html

http://nmsp.cals.cornell.edu/publications/factsheets/factsheet22.pdf

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/what_is_your_soil_cation_exchange_capacity

http://ocj.com/2013/01/fertilizer-soil-ph-and-cation-exchange-capacity/

Pictures:

CEC 1 – soil particles - http://www.ex-m.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Cation-Exchange-Capacity.jpg

CEC 2 – fulvic acid chelation - http://home.fulvicforce.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Minerals-in-fulvic-acid-1024x266.png

CEC 3 – soil particle size - http://portal.chmi.cz/files/portal/docs/poboc/CB/runoff_cz/media/graphics/soil_particle_diameter.jpg

CEC 4- grass and sand - https://images-bcp6wb47klufe0kzg.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/image02-4.jpg

CEC 5- table salt dissolving - http://www.wou.edu/chemistry/files/2017/05/dissolving-salt.png

2018 GIE EXPO - Recapping the Green Industry's Largest Show of the Year!

Thu, 08 Nov 2018 05:00:00 GMT

PLAY RECAP VIDEO!

With thousands of green industry attendees and over 800 exhibitors, you can see why the GIE EXPO is one of the largest shows of its kind in America. Located at the Kentucky Exposition Center in the lively Louisville, KY, the GIE is not only large, it is also one heck of a good time! From Hardscapes to PermaGreens, everything you need to get the job done is for all to see at the GIE. Contests, giveaways, bratwurst and polka bands scattered the booths while new product spotlights stir attendee’s excitement. Feeling adventurous? You could head to the outdoor exhibit and tear up some turf with this year’s toughest equipment. Have green industry questions? Head to the booth of your choice to talk straight to the experts. Looking to let loose? Check out the evening concert series on 4thstreet downtown. If you attended or not, we are about to give you the dirt on what you missed, fun event highlights and booth adventures as we recap the GIE with the TurfCare™ Road Crew!

OPENING NIGHT EXCITEMENT

On Wednesday at 3pm, hundreds of attendees lined up as they eagerly awaited the opening night of the GIE EXPO. Typically, the first night has been reserved for dealers only, but this year all could attend. With a larger attendance, opening night had more energy and excitement then all years before. With live music, games, free food and cold beverages it was a great kickoff to the GIE and a great chance to mingle with industry professionals and exhibitors.

DAY 2, TURFCARE BOOTH HIGHLIGHTS AND GIVE-AWAYS

Thursday the energy continued. A highlight of the event and interest to many attendees was the Product Spotlight. Here, new products were showcased that released this year. TurfCare’s AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate was one of the new products to launch this 2018. Highlighted at their booth, all who stopped by received AMP-XC™ swag and 8oz liquid samples. But the fun didn’t stop there! TurfCare’s booth was a hot spot the entire time of the GIE. Really hot, literally, because they were handing out FREE coffee every morning to all the valued attendees. Also, you could enter to win an AMP-XC™ prize pack which contained a LESCO® backpack sprayer and 2 gallons of the star of the show, the NEW AMP-XC™ Liquid soil amending technology. Only of its kind on the market to feature microbial metabolite technology, since its release, AMP-XC™ LC has been revolutionizing the industry!

FINAL DAY, EVENTS AND APPRECIATION

Friday, it was time to feel like a V.I.P.! At 10am, TurfCare™ held an appreciation event at their booth. Invited were tons of well-respected industry influencers, passionate green industry supporter and landscape professionals. Also, in attendance was a group from TurfCare’s corporate office who want to check out the event and get to know their customers. Coffee and donuts abound around great conversations filled with plant science, turf health and product innovations. Special guest, Joe Marchichin, Turf Care Supply Corp’s Agronomist stopped by to answer questions, talk science and discuss the future of green industry research and development.

As the event came to a close, all who attended seemed well pleased. One of the best shows in the industry, the GIE EXPO rarely disappoints. Thank you to all who stopped by the TurfCare™ booth. We enjoyed meeting you and appreciate your continued support for TurfCare™ and our products which we take pride in manufacturing and developing to the highest of quality. If you didn’t make it, we recommend you check it out next year and look forward to seeing you then!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Turf[TECH]Report: CRN: Controlled Release Nitrogen - What you don't know could BURN your turf!

Wed, 07 Nov 2018 05:00:00 GMT

WHAT IS CONTROLLED RELEASE NITROGEN?

Controlled Release Nitrogen (CRN) consists of uniform granules (usually urea-based) designed to release nitrogen into the soil over an extended time period. This is as opposed to straight urea, which is considered to be ‘immediately available nitrogen.’ The mechanism for controlling the release of nitrogen is a physical barrier. Controlled release nitrogen is typically encapsulated by a combination one or more layers of polymer, sulfur and wax. These layers work in tandem to control the rate that water enters the granule, then control the rate at which dissolved urea nitrogen leaves the granule.

WHAT COATING TECHNOLOGIES ARE AVAILABLE AND HOW DO THEY COMPARE?

Sulfur Coated Urea (SCU) was the first type of CRN to hit the market nearly 50 years ago. Sulfur is very effective at repelling water, however sulfur coatings are extremely brittle. The Sulfur coating fractures allowing water to find its way inside, the granule expands, further fracturing the sulfur coating. Once this occurs, dissolved urea flows out quickly. SCU works on the premise that some granules will take longer to fracture and release their nutrients than others. Over the course of time, this “mix” of release times results in continuous nitrogen feeding until the last granules have fractured. Most products have a wax that is applied atop the sulfur layer to slow the rate of nitrogen release by protecting the Sulfur layer.

Temperature can also affect CRN granules coated with wax because waxes are slowly broken down by soil microbes (microbes are more active in warmer soil temperatures). In recent years, SCU has been enhanced by hardeners and or polymers that further protect the inner brittle sulfur layer or protect the water from reaching the inner granular, effectively stabilizing the release curves of SCUs. These enhanced SCU base products which combine polymers are often referred to as Polymer coated sulfur coated ureas. XCU® is an example of an advanced SCU or PCSCU.

Polymer (or Plastic) Coated Urea (PCU) generally has longer and more stable release properties vs most SCU based products. PCU granules can consist of one or more polymer layers allowing for greater extended release times. Polymer coatings are less susceptible to fracturing (abrasion) during transport than sulfur coatings thus their release times are more consistent. Through osmosis, water diffuses through the polymer layer and slowly dissolves the urea core. Over the course of many weeks or months, urea slowly dissolves through the polymer layer providing an even, controlled distribution of nitrogen over a large portion of the growing season. Once the urea has been depleted, the thin polymer shell is biodegraded naturally by soil microbes, making PCU technology very efficient and environmentally friendly. DURATION® is an example of an advanced PCU.

HOW TO READ A CRN LABEL

Every fertilizer label contains an N-P-K analysis and a derived-from statement. The analysis shows the percent by weight of each element inside a fertilizer bag. The derived-from statement shows what raw ingredients those elements are derived from. In addition to an analysis and a derived-from statement, every label must also show the guaranteed percent of “slowly available nitrogen,” and the source of that nitrogen.

Take for example TCS Growstar’s 29-0-4 Professional Lawn Fertilizer + Iron. This blend contains both Urea and Polymer Sulfur-Coated Urea (PSCU). 29% of the entire bag by weight is nitrogen. 9.1% of the entire bag by weight is nitrogen derived from PSCU. That means that 31.3% of the total nitrogen is CRN (from PSCU) and 68.7% of the total nitrogen is urea.

WHAT IS A DISSOLUTION RATE?

Every controlled-release fertilizer has a dissolution rate associated with it. The dissolution rate refers to how much dissolved urea has been depleted (or released) over a time period. In general, the industry goal is to manufacture CRNs with minimal to no release in the first 3 days, because urea is providing the Nitrogen during the first 3 days. Then from day 4 to the desired days of release (typically 45,90,120,180) a consistent release on nitrogen each week (see chart 1) is optimal, however in reality most dissolution rate curves varying by CRN type. CRN products can last anywhere from 30 days to up to 180 days. In general, 30-day products have thinner coatings, so they deplete their nitrogen faster. 180-day products have thicker and multiple coatings, often consisting mainly of polymer. More coatings and or thicker coatings translate to products with longer dissolution rates. Not surprisingly, these products take more time to manufacture and use more coating components, hence they drive a premium price point.

Urea vs. GOAL CRN (chart 1): Note that in this chart, urea is depleted within the first 3 days of being applied to the ground. This is why manufacturers strive to create CRN products that don’t release any nitrogen until shortly after straight urea has been depleted.

1stGeneration SCU vs. Improved SCU (chart 2): Note that 1stGeneration SCU products typically release up to 30% of their nitrogen within the first few days; this is undesirable as most fertilizer blends already have straight urea in them. Improved SCU products demonstrate a nearly 20% reduction in nitrogen release in the first few days; this is desirable. Why pay a premium for CRNs that behave like straight urea within the first few days of their application?

Basic PCU vs. Improved PCU (chart 3): Note that with improved PCU, nitrogen release is delayed within the first week (this is desirable), and that the overall release curve is much straighter than that of basic PCU. Many improved PCU products now last well beyond 90 days with consistent and predictable nitrogen release week to week.

THE EVOLUTION OF CRNS OVER TIME Take a look at the dissolution rate curves in the graph above. These curves do not represent specific CRN products, but rather demonstrate the evolution of classes of CRN products over time. First, note that straight urea (46-0-0) releases nearly all of its nitrogen within 3 days under normal conditions (chart 1). Urea is the best source of nitrogen on a cost per ton basis, hence urea is the base raw ingredient for nearly all CRN products.

Next, look at (chart 2) basic SCU (invented in the late 1960s). Note that basic SCU releases nearly 30% of its nitrogen within the first day or two. Its release curve mimics a standard logarithmic curve, meaning compared to other CRNs, it releases more of its nitrogen earlier in the curve. Given this challenge (too much nitrogen release within the first few days), manufacturers and agronomists were determined to reduce this initial nitrogen load into the ground. This led to the development of polymer coated urea (PCU) several decades later. In addition to quelling the early nitrogen release problem associated with first generation SCU, PCU also brought straighter, more consistent release curves to the industry (chart 3). Today’s improved PCU products have release curves that mimic a shape of a hockey stick, resulting in more gentle transitional nitrogen feeding for turf. Improved PCU products have also been engineered to reduce lock-off issues, and last longer in the field.

Last, the higher costs associated with components and manufacturing improved PCU products has led to the development of improved or “enhanced” SCU products. Improved SCU uses hardeners and or polymers and or waxes to mitigate the early nitrogen release issues associated with 1stgeneration SCU products. Improved SCU products are also more resistant to abrasion and have longer release windows. Some improved SCU products now last as long as 90 days in the field.

HOW DO I CHOSE THE RIGHT CRN FOR ME?

Choosing the right CRN comes from an understanding the dissolution rate (or release curve profile) of each CRN, and then deciding which CRN gives you the nitrogen you need when you need it. For example, an applicator who only likes to drop fertilizer in the spring may want to pay a premium for a 180-day CRN, that way he or she only has to fertilizer once per year. In most cool season grass climates, a 180-day product will make it through most of the growing season (year to year variations in weather will affect the performance of a 180-day product). Conversely, a lawn care business might prefer a 45-day product such as XCU, due to sporadic weather conditions, financial factors, specific agronomic / control programs, etc. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing for lawn health either; more nitrogen is making into soil and being taken up by the plant per year than dropping a 180-day product only once per year. You should pick your CRN product based on how it fits into your turf maintenance program. For example, if you only fertilizer twice per year, two 90-day products might be right for your situation. If you’re a golf course superintendent, you might prefer to “spoon-feed” your turf, which means you might want to use 30-day products 5-8 times per year. It all depends on your climate and the nature of your turf maintenance program.

WHAT ARE THE EFFECTS OF APPLYING LOW-QUALITY CRN PRODUCTS TO TURF?

The whole concept behind CRN products is that they release nitrogen slowly and evenly over time. Low quality coatings are more susceptible to fracturing through abrasion (the colliding of CRN granules against each other during storage and transport). This is why most CRN products guarantee up to about 90% of their slow-release integrity on the bag. (What this means is, if you had a 50 LB bag of pure 39-0-0 SCU, about 10% of the bag would be considered ‘immediate release’ due to the fracturing of about 10% of the SCU granules during storage and transport. Fractured coatings are considered ‘compromised’ and are treated the same as straight urea from a labeling standpoint.) Low-quality CRN products run the risk of behaving like straight urea, which means they have the potential to burn or even kill a lawn. Before purchasing any CRN, ask for dissolution rate data and don’t hesitate to dig into that product’s industry reputation.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Solubility – The Key to Plant Nutrition

Mon, 24 Sep 2018 04:00:00 GMT

SOLUBILITY PROPERTIES OF COMMON NUTRIENTS

As referenced earlier in this feature, solubility of nutrients can vary significantly by nutrient source, as well as temperature. Take a look at the chart below which reports the solubility of some of the more common nutrient sources in the industry. Note that in every case, as temperature increases, so does solubility.

SOLUBILITY OF NITROGEN

Most plants need more nitrogen than any other primary or secondary nutrient. Nitrogen comes in numerous forms, including but not limited to: urea (all sub-forms), ammonium (all salt forms), nitrate (all salt forms) and numerous organic sources (such as biosolids and composts). Each of these N-sources has a different degree of solubility. For example, urea is extremely soluble, which means if you drop urea granules into a beaker of water, the urea will readily dissolve. The extreme solubility of urea is beneficial because an abundant supply of nitrogen is easily delivered to plant roots in the presence of water. Unfortunately, urea’s extreme solubility can also be detrimental in situations where nitrogen is accidently over applied (which leads to burning). It is important to note that the release rate of urea (or other forms of controlled release nitrogen) in granular form can be altered by coating it with polymer, sulfur or both, HOWEVER this is a physical method of slowing down the release of nitrogen. The solubility of the urea nitrogen contained within the polymer/sulfur coating remains unchanged.

Some fertilizer labels contain a section called: “WIN” or “Water Insoluble Nitrogen.” This refers to any nitrogen in a compound that is not readily dissolvable in water and immediately available to a plant. Over time, this nitrogen slowly becomes available raw ingredient the compound breaks down.

SOLUBILITY OF HUMIC SUBSTANCES

Humic Substances are highly valuable soil amendments because they chelate micronutrients, retain soil moisture, and create an ideal living environment for beneficial soil microbes. It is important to note that not all humic substances are alike. Humic substances range from highly soluble fulvic acids and moderately soluble humic acids, all the way down to completely insoluble humin substances. Humins are dark and tar-like in appearance and have no beneficial properties in plant-soil systems. Make sure that if you add humic substances to your soil, you are adding mostly fulvic and humic acids. For those applying liquid products through traditional spraying and fertigation, make sure your humic substances consist of mostly fulvics and lower molecular weight humic acids. Other humic substances may not dissolve in water, which could clog spray systems.

SOLUBILITY OF IRON SUBSTANCES

Iron is an important micronutrient commonly used to give turf a dark, lush green appearance. Iron typically comes in two forms in the earth’s crust: Fe+2 (ferrous iron) and Fe+3(ferric iron). Plants prefer the ferrous form for uptake, however the ferric form is more abundant in the soil. Have you ever tried to dissolve iron oxide (rust) in water? Nothing happens- that’s because iron oxide is completely insoluble in water. Ferrous iron is quite soluble in water (hence its ability to be transported in xylem tissue), however ferrous iron is easily oxidized into the ferric form. For these reasons, iron sulfate and iron sucrate are popular forms of iron in granular fertilizer mixes. When iron is bound to a sulfate or sucrate, it becomes harder for the environment to convert it into an oxide. In order to maximize the solubility of iron in liquid fertilizers, iron-chelates are used. Chelates are extremely soluble in water; they surround the metal ion and protect it from the oxidative environment of pure water. The most common forms of chelated iron are Fe-EDTA, Fe-EDDHA, and Fe-DTPA. If you’ve ever used a liquid iron nutrient product, it more than likely contained one of the three aforementioned chelated iron complexes.

SOLUBILITY OF LIME

Lime is primarily used to balance the pH of acidic soils. Compared to the solubility of most nutrients, lime’s solubility is relatively low. Interestingly, as opposed to most nutrients, the solubility of lime decreases as temperature increases. Solubility is also affected by particle size; the finer the particle, the more soluble lime becomes. Lime typically comes in two forms: CaC03 (calcium hydroxide lime) and Ca(OH)2·Mg(OH)2 (dolomitic lime). It is important to note that in the fertilizer industry, when we say “lime,” we are actually referring to ground-up “limestone.” Pure “lime” has the chemical formulas CaO or Ca(OH)2; both of which are purified in thermolytic reactions. Pure lime is extremely soluble, hence it forms the basis of concrete products. Before applying lime to your soil, perform a soil pH test first. When applying lime, make sure to water it thoroughly into the soil, as again, limestone is not very soluble.

TANK MIXING, BROADCAST SPRAYING, & FERTIGATION: WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT NUTRIENT CROSS-REACTIONS

For those who prefer liquid fertilizers and soil amendments , it is important to note that regardless of the relative solubility of the ingredients you use, some ingredients simply don’t mix well with others (this is chemistry 101). When ionic compounds dissolve in water, the ions disassociate. For example, when table salt (NaCl) dissolves in water, the Na+ and Cl- ions split apart from each other. In nature, pure sodium is highly reactive, and pure chlorine gas is deadly, however when dissolved in water, they are quite safe. When two different kinds of salts are dissolved in water, it is possible for the ions to perform a double replacement reaction, meaning two entirely new compounds are created. Sometimes these new compounds are insoluble, and they immediately precipitate in solution.

Many liquid products will instruct the user to perform a small scale “jar test” when mixing with other liquid products. This is to ensure that precipitates do not form, but also to ensure there are no dangerous cross-reactions. The chart below compares the compatibility of different combinations of chemistries in solution. While most chemistries are compatible, there are three distinct patterns become apparent:

Most nitrates are not compatible with elemental sulfur
Calcium nitrate is only moderately soluble with most compounds
Straight urea doesn’t mix well with some nitrates

Whether mixing nutrients, soil amendments, or pesticides, ALWAYS read and understand the label AND perform a small-scale jar test with new combinations of ingredients before large scale tank mixing. If you have any questions or concerns, contact the product’s manufacturer before proceeding.

Solubility & Compatibility – master these two concepts and your fertilizer programs is sure to give you fantastic results whether your growing turf, ornamentals, trees, or vegetables!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/MAINTAIN/winamt.html

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF00011851

https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/iron

https://www.lime.org/documents/lime_basics/lime-physcial-chemcial.pdf

https://www.growcom.com.au/_uploads/LWR/Fertigatoin Compatability and Solubility.pdf

Ecofarmingdaily.com/fertilizer-solubility

http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/agr/agr5/agr5.pdf

http://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_dos_donts_tankmixing/

Pictures:

Solubility 01 (solution in beakers) - http://www.chemistryland.com/CHM130FieldLab/Lab5/PourWaterIntoFlask.jpg

Solubility 02 (salt ions in water) - http://www.discoveryexpresskids.com/uploads/2/5/6/9/25695369/3159547_orig.jpg

Solubility 03 (evaoptranspiration) - https://classconnection.s3.amazonaws.com/283/flashcards/723283/jpg/transpiration-21323269065290.jpg

Solubility 04 (xylem & phloem travel) - https://image.slidesharecdn.com/planttransport-120920020944-phpapp01/95/plant-transport-6-728.jpg?cb=1348107136

Solubility 05 (granular fertilizer) - http://okfert.com/wp-content/uploads/granular-fertilizer.jpg

Solubility 06 (liquid fertilizer) - http://www.spraytech.uk.com/ekmps/shops/spraytechuk/images/team-scout-60l-296-p.jpg

Solubility 07 (urea prills) - http://www.etherenterprise.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/canstockphoto6814252.jpg

Solubility 08 (humic substances chart) - http://home.fulvicforce.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Humic-substances-classification-1024x770.png

Solubility 09 (EDTA iron) - http://en3img.allhaving.comhttps://www.turfcaresupply.com/upload/3755/o/2a-ferric-sodium_01.jpg

Solubility 010 (liming application) - http://www.dragtimes.com/img-videos/Liquid-Lime-Application-Terra-Gator-8103-Gromes-Plender-drone-only--v-SGzTSBeUMWs.jpg

Solubility 011 (tank mixing) - https://stowacres.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/img_0525.jpg

Solubility 012 (compatibility chart) - http://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=uMGE5AUC&id=0DBABA8CEB6E9169FFD194B7450AA92F455A231B&thid=OIP.uMGE5AUCVHH4xVrltZ6vAQHaEl&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fgrowmo.com%2fwp-content%2fuploads%2f2017%2f03%2fYara-fertilizer-compatibility-chart.png&exph=498&expw=803&q=fertilizer+compatability&simid=608013294072172315&selectedIndex=1&ajaxhist=0

One of the most important concepts in fertilizer chemistry and plant nutrition is “solubility.” In the plant sciences, solubility is defined as how readily nutrients are dissolved in water and can be taken up by plants. There are many factors that can affect the solubility of a nutrient, including but not limited to chemical structure, ion charge, temperature, and pressure. pH can also have a profound impact on the solubility of nutrients; this is because different types of nutrients in a solution/soil colloid will tend to attract or repel each other based on their chemical properties. Sometimes it is beneficial to fertilize plants with highly soluble nutrients; sometimes it’s detrimental. In this feature, well examine the topic of solubility in greater detail so that you have a better grasp as to how the nutrients you choose to fertilizer with will 1.) react with the environment and 2.) affect plant health.

Before we learn more about the solubility of common fertilizer chemistries, let’s take a moment to review basic plant physiology. As we will see, if nutrients were not capable of being dissolved in water, plant life would not be possible.

PHLOEM, XYLEM AND EVAPOTRANSPIRATION – THE PLANT’S NUTRIENT TRANSPORT SYSTEM

All higher plants (including grasses, vegetables, and trees) have a vascular system which is analogous to an animal’s circulatory system. The plant vascular system consists of two primary types of tissues that are typically bundled together: xylem and phloem. Phloemtubules carry sugar, other organic compounds and minerals around the plant. Typically, sugar is transported down to plant roots as an energy source for root growth. Xylemtubules transport water and are responsible for keeping the plant hydrated. Water is drawn from the ground into the roots where it is pulled upward through the stem, all the way to the leaf or blade, where it eventually exists through stomata. (Stomata are tiny pores on leaf blades that open and close to control the rates of water loss and gas exchange). The entire process of water being drawn through the plant is called evapotranspiration. Because water has cohesive and adhesive properties (meaning water likes to “stick” to surfaces, as well as itself), when water evaporates out through a stomate, another water molecule gets pulled into the stomate to take its place. Essentially, xylem tubes facilitate an unbroken chain of water molecules that are constantly being pulled upward through the plant. This is critical because this is how nutrients from the ground are transported to all parts of the plant; they are dissolved in the water located inside xylem tissues. In other words, nutrients that are not soluble cannot be used by plants.

STATE OF SOLUBILITY AT DELIVERY – WHICH FERTILIZERS PERFORM BETTER: GRANULAR OR LIQUID PRODUCTS?

Much study has gone in to determining if granular or liquid fertilizers are more effective at delivering nutrients to the plant. As it turns out, as long as the nutrient source, environmental conditions and application rate are the same, both are equally effective. When nutrients are already dissolved in water, they are immediately absorbed into the ground. In the case of granular fertilizers, if the ground is sufficiently saturated due to heavy irrigation or adequate rainfall, the same nutrients will readily dissolve at disperse into the soil in the same manner as if they were delivered in liquid form. In the case of turf, two benefits that come from liquid fertilizer applications are the immediate penetration of nutrients into the soil, as well as a more even distribution of nutrients across the soil surface. But remember, given adequate ground saturation, nutrients delivered from granules will disperse just as easily given enough time.

The Glyphosate Debate

Fri, 14 Sep 2018 04:00:00 GMT

THE CASE

If you’ve been watching the news as of late, you probably heard about a record lawsuit in California. A state court recently ordered Monsanto to pay $289 million in damages to a groundskeeper who developed non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma (a form of cancer). In the landmark case, the plaintiff argued that decades of exposure to RoundUp™ (the trade name for Monsanto’s glyphosate chemistry) led to his medical condition. After listening to arguments from both sides, a jury of 12 sided with the plaintiff. Monsanto has already stated multiple times that it will 1.) appeal the decision and 2.) continue to defend the position that glyphosate is a safe chemistry that has been used for decades. As of September 5, 2018, over 8700 lawsuits have been filed against Monsanto. Regardless of anyone’s opinion on the verdict, there can be no doubt the floodgates have been opened to many more impending lawsuits. Right now, glyphosate is in the hot seat, but one has to wonder if other pesticides will be next.

Even though Turf Care Supply Corp. does not, and has never offered glyphosate in any of its products, this trending topic has led to a significant increase in customer questions. Many customers have also inquired whether or not glyphosate is safe to use. Since there are multiple opinions on the topic, we decided to only provide the facts. This way you can decide whether you think it’s safe after we reveal the details of the Glyphosate Debate.

In this feature, we’ll learn how glyphosate works and why it’s been a frequently used tool in ag for many years. Most importantly, we’ll examine what authoritative bodies have to say regarding whether or not glyphosate is safe. We’ll also review the precautions consumers should take should they decide to use this herbicide.

THE FACTS

What is glyphosate?

Glyphosate is a non-selective, broad spectrum, systemic herbicide designed to kill most plants. Glyphosate is an organophosphonate that inhibits an enzyme found only in plants called 5-enolpyruvylshikijmate-3-phosphate synthase. Essentially, glyphosate prevents plants from being able to synthesize three key aromatic amino acids. Since amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and proteins are what catalyze metabolic reactions in all organisms, once plants can no longer synthesize these amino acids, they starve and eventually die. Glyphosate is applied foliarly and translocated to mitotic sites in the plant. Glyphosate begins to desiccate many plants within 6-12 hours and can kill smaller weeds in only a few days.

How Did Glyphosate Impact the Ag Industry?

Glyphosate was introduced to the market in 1974 as a means of killing weeds in farm fields. A few decades later, Monsanto came out with Round-Up™ Readycrops. These genetically modified crops were given genes that essentially made them resistant to the effects of glyphosate. The release of RoundUp™ Readycrops was a monumental game changer in ag worldwide; farmers could now spray their fields with glyphosate and effectively kill all the weeds that were competing for space and nutrients without harming the crops. As a result, crop yields increased significantly. RoundUp™ Ready crops are used all over the world today, and are a key component to helping farmers deliver consistently high yields.

The success of this technology has also brought about a few challenges. As is with any population within species, genetic variation exists from one organism to another. Applying this principal on a large scale, it is expected that some weeds are naturally more resistant to glyphosate than others. For example, in a field of millions of weeds (assuming all of the same species), if a few hundred weeds are glyphosate-resistant, these weeds will breed and produce an entire generation of glyphosate-resistant weeds; hence the problem of herbicide resistance. When this occurs, glyphosate’s efficacy becomes markedly reduced or completely inhibited. Agronomists, geneticists, molecular biologists, and chemists are constantly trying to stay ahead of the resistance curve, as this problem extends to all classes of pesticides (including insecticides and fungicides). Many are concerned about proliferation of “super-weeds” (or super-resistant weeds) in the ecosystem, making the use of glyphosate on a large scale a topic of controversy. Although this concern merits discussion, glyphosate is currently in the hot seat because of the accusation that it causes cancer, not that it results in the release of super weeds into the environment.

RESEARCH & RESULTS

Is Glyphosate DANGEROUS or Safe? Learn what authoritative bodies have to say about it...

Given the recent news, the one lingering question on everyone’s mind is: “Is glyphosate safe?” In other words, “Does short or long term exposure to glyphosate cause cancer or other adverse effects?” You be the judge! Review the results and responses of authoritative bodies below on the amount of risk they have found glyphosate has to human health (when used as directed).

CONCLUSION

No Matter the Level of Risk you Decide, Taking Proper Precautions is Best

As is with any pesticide, if you chose to use it, make sure you follow the instructions on the label precisely to ensure maximum efficacy and safety. If you have any questions, contact the manufacturer. Most glyphosate labels will contain the following language:

Avoid contact with eyes or clothing.
Wear personal protective clothing (wear long-sleeve shirts, pants, socks and shoes).
Wash hands thoroughly before eating or drinking
Pets: glyphosate is generally non-toxic to dogs, cats, and most domestic animals, however ingestion may lead to mild gastrointestinal irritation. If swallowed provide animal with adequate drinking water and consult a veterinarian if symptoms persist more than 24 hours
Keep container stored away from water, food, feed, or seed. Avoid spills and surface contamination.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

https://www.epa.gov/pesticides/epa-releases-draft-risk-assessments-glyphosate

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/glyphogen.html#cancer

https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/reports-publications/pesticides-pest-management/decisions-updates/registration-decision/2017/glyphosate-rvd-2017-01.html#a1

https://geneticliteracyproject.org/2015/03/24/german-agency-says-iarc-glyphosate-decision-based-on-poor-evidence/

http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/water-quality/guidelines/chemicals/glyphosate-fs-2017.pdf?ua=1

https://monographs.iarc.fr/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/mono112-10.pdf

https://echa.europa.eu/-/glyphosate-not-classified-as-a-carcinogen-by-echa

Pictures:

Glyphosate 01 (RoundUp) - https://cbsla.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/gettyimages-994997314.jpg

Glyphosate 02 (U.S. weed resistance) - http://i.pinimg.com/736x/0d/da/e0/0ddae08cb282b3d4cf0042069b3add5f.jpg

Glyphosate 03 (mode of action) - https://www.cell.com/cms/attachment/2007962229/2030677672/gr1.jpg?code=cell-site

Glyphosate 04 (RoundUp Ready Crops) - https://detoxproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/eat-gm-crops-eat-roundup.jpg

Glyphosate 05 (Glyphosate Ruling) - https://ecowatchroar-img.rbl.ms/simage/https%3A%2F%2Fassets.rbl.ms%2F9685886%2F1200x600.jpg/2000%2C2000/N8308fFc97JviZ%2FW/img.jpg

Glyphosate 06 (how glyphosate resistant crops are made) - https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/oww-files-public/2/23/Fig_6_10.jpg

EPA logo - https://sites.lafayette.edu/egrs251-fa11-greywater/files/2011/11/epa-logo-11.jpg

NPIC logo - https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/styles/medium/public/2015-04/npic.jpg?itok=63kt0H7q

CPMA logo - http://pestworldcanada.net/PCA_Canada/cache/file/D8938540-E3BE-5D24-BA00BDF56ACF89FF_opengraphsharingimage.jpg

German Federal Institute For Risk Assessment logo - https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6c/BfR-Logo.svg/300px-BfR-Logo.svg.png

WHO Cancer Research logo - http://www.asbestosdiseaseawareness.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/IARC.WHO-Logo-High-Res.png

European Chemicals Agenecy logo -https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/sr/7/7a/European_chemicals_agency_logo.jpg

Turf Repair Guide

Tue, 07 Aug 2018 04:00:00 GMT

LEARN HOW TO RESTORE 5 COMMON TYPES OF LAWN DAMAGE

There’s nothing more frustrating than having a beautiful lawn ruined by a dead spot or divot. From fertilizer spills to mechanical damage, consider this feature your ‘pocket book’ guide to quick lawn repair. No messing around…let’s get your turf back in top shape!

1. FERTILIZER SPILL

It happens. Whether you’re filling up your spreader with a bag of granular fertilizer or filling your spray tank up with liquid, a fertilizer spill (especially those high in nitrogen) usually ends up leaving your turf with a dead patch. When fertilizer spills, nitrogen-containing salts draw water out of the soil as well as plant tissues, leaving turf to desiccate (dry out). Too much nitrogen also shifts the soil pH more acidic which creates a challenging growing environment. The good news is, if you act quickly, you might be able to save your turf from almost certain devastation.

Fig. 1. Fertilizer Spill

In the event of a granular fertilizer spill…

If practical, and depending on the severity of the spill, sweep the fertilizer granules up as best you can by any means (shovel, broom, vacuum, etc.)
Immediately soak the spill area with water and dilute/distribute the fertilizer granules as much as possible. Continue to drench the surrounding area to distribute the fertilizer over as much surface area as possible.
Continue to water the spill area and surroundings thoroughly over the next few days

Apply a modest dusting of lime over the primary spill area and a light dusting of lime over the surrounding area. Water in gently.

In the event of a liquid fertilizer spill…

Immediately soak the spill area with water and dilute the fertilizer as much as possible.Continue to drench the surrounding area to distribute the fertilizer over as much surface area as possible.
Continue to water the spill area and surroundings thoroughly over the next few days
Apply a modest dusting of lime over the primary spill area and a light dusting of lime over the surrounding area. Water in gently.

In the event a fertilizer spill has already left a dead patch…

Use shovel to dig up the entire dead patch.Make sure to dig at least 4 inches down. Discard or compost the dead patch.

Fill in the void with good quality top soil.
Spread new grass seed across the topsoil surface.Gently work the seed into the soil with a dirt rake (about 0.5”-1” down). Tamp lightly. Cover with straw.
Thoroughly water the seeds through the germination process. Continue to water once a day until the patch has filled in.

2. ANIMAL URINE

Fido may be ‘man’s best friend’, but he’s certainly not ‘lawns best friend!´ Dog and cat urine on the lawn is almost exactly like having a fertilizer spill. One of the largest components of animal urine is urea, the same exact urea from which most nitrogen fertilizers are made. Ideally, if you see your dog or cat urinating on the lawn, you should immediately treat it as a liquid fertilizer spill and dilute it with water to avoid ending up with a dead patch. With that said, we fully understand that most people aren’t going to do that. In the event you do end up with a dead spot and the culprit is animal urine, follow the steps in the previous example to repair your turf.

Fig. 2. Animal Damage to Lawn

3. SALT DAMAGE

Turf Care is headquartered in Brunswick, OH, a suburb of Cleveland. And if there’s one thing the midwest knows about, it’s salt damage. Ohio and many northern states are no stranger to receiving significant amounts of snow, and salt is the best way to keep the roads clear in the winter. Unfortunately, with the spring melt comes copious damage to tree lawns from salt accumulation. Road salt dries out plant tissues, leaving behind a mess of dead turf and stained soils. If your lawn is suffering from the effects of ice melt, try these steps:

Fig. 3. Salt Damage to Lawn

Apply pelletized gypsum to the affected area and water in gently. Gypsum will help reduce compaction as well flush out the excess road salt.
Apply a thin layer of organic material to the affected area (top soil, potting soil, or humic acid all work).
Cover the affected area with straw and thoroughly water for several weeks.
Reseed if necessary (follow reseeding steps in first example).

4. MECHANICAL/PEST DAMAGE

Whether the dog was digging in the dirt or the kids tore up the turf playing soccer in the back yard, mechanical damage can be a visual eyesore. Mechanical damage can also come from burrowing creatures such as voles. These animals can do just as much damage as root feeding insects such as grubs. Before spending time and resources on turf repair, first make sure you have established the cause.

In the event of grub damage…

As redundant as this sounds, make sure the cause really is grub damage. Root-feeding grubs and insects don’t always kill turf, but their underground presence can usually be verified by tugging gently upward on a patch of turf. If the turf easily comes up (like pulling a flat blanket straight upward off a bed), you probably have grub damage. If the turf doesn’t budge, something else may be the cause.
Dethatch and aerate the target area as thorough as possible.
Treat the affected area with a traditional insecticide (such as imidacloprid) or a bioinsecticide (such as nematodes).
After an insecticide application, the grubs should begin to die in a few weeks
Be careful not to over water recovering turf as excess water creates a friendly environment for feeding grubs.
If dead patches develop, follow the ‘dead patch’ replacement procedure in the fertilizer spill section.

Fig. 4. Grubs in Soil

In the event of mole/vole damage…

Place mole baits as deep as possible in the tunnel entrances. Use gloves and other protective gear when applying these baits as they are poisonous.
Fill in any entrances and/or dirt mounds created by the moles.
Use a castor-based mole repellent near the collapsed tunnel entrances. Water in thoroughly so that the castor oil penetrates the soil as much as possible.
Use a yard roller to flatten your lawn in a effort to compress any additional tunnels that lie near the surface. Tip: soak the lawn in water first, as this will help make the soil more pliable.
Moles can be difficult to eliminate; this process may take several weeks or months, and the above outlined steps may need to be repeated before being effective.
If dead patches develop, follow the ‘dead patch’ replacement procedure in the fertilizer spill section.

Fig. 5. Vole Damage to Lawn

In the event of above ground mechanical damage from high foot traffic…

High foot traffic is one of the most difficult problems to repair because it leads to severe compaction. Compaction can stress both root and shoot tissue and severely hinders water penetration and oxygen exchange.
First, thoroughly aerate the compacted zone using a mechanical aerator. If the ground is very hard and virtually barren of turf, consider using a rototiller to turn over the soil. If tilling is necessary, use this opportunity to add organic material (such as a light layer of compost or humic acid) to the soil. Consider adding lime if a soil test warrants it.
Spread new grass seed across the topsoil surface. Gently work the seed into the soil with a dirt rake (about 0.5”-1” down). Tamp lightly. Cover with straw. DO NOT LET PEOPLE WALK ON THE NEWLY SEEDED TURF.
Thoroughly water the seeds through the germination process. Continue to water once a day until the patch has filled in.
To give turf the best possible chance of surviving future high foot traffic, water turf thoroughly and aerate once or twice a year to reduce compaction.

Fig. 6. Mechanical Damage from High Foot Traffic

5. GASOLINE/OIL SPILL

Again, it happens. You’re filling up your mower with gasoline or changing out the oil. Either way, the reservoir overflows and petroleum product ends up on the lawn. We all know what happens to turf when gas or oil hits the ground; a few days later you’re going to end up with a dead spot.

In the event of a small spill…

Immediately break out the hose and attempt to dilute the spill as much as possible. Some species of soil bacteria can naturally breakdown hydrocarbons up to a certain concentration.
Consider sprinkling activated charcoal across the soil surface as this material is extremely effective at soaking up hydrocarbons, heavy metals, and other toxic compounds.

In the event of a large spill (about 5 fl. oz or more)…

Do not dilute the spill as this will only spread a significant problem over a larger area.
Wait and observe. The affected turf will likely die within a few days.
Once you are satisfied the dead patch perimeter has been established, grab a shovel and remove the entire dead patch as well as a few inches of healthy turf around the perimeter of the dead patch. Dig down at least 1 foot, as it is imperative to remove as much petroleum contamination as possible.
Dispose of the dead patch in an environmentally appropriate manner.
Fill in the void with fresh top soil. Add organic components (such as humic acid). Add lime if warranted by a soil test.
Spread new grass seed across the topsoil surface.Gently work the seed into the soil with a dirt rake (about 0.5”-1” down). Tamp lightly. Cover with straw.
Thoroughly water the seeds through the germination process. Continue to water once a day until the patch has filled in.

Bonus Tips!

Remember, turf establishes best in the spring and fall months. In the event you need to reseed for whatever reason, consider reseeding in the spring or fall as this will greatly enhance the success rate of your newly establishing turf.
Preventative lawn maintenance will reduce the chances of many of these common problems from occurring. The old cliché is true… the best defense is a good offense. Lawns that are adequately fertilized, watered, and aerated develop more robust root systems that are better to defend against abiotic and biotic stresses. Consider following a yearly turf maintenance plan or hiring a lawn care professional. Many state university ag extension offices post free maintenance calendars on their websites which are specialized for turf in your region and climate.
If a pest problem doesn’t seem to be resolving itself, more aggressive strategies may need to be employed. Don’t hesitate to use the services of a licensed professional should more robust traps and pesticides be needed.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-dead-grass-fertilizer-50401.html

https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/lawn-dog-damage.html

https://www.thegrassmaster.com/how-to-avoid-salt-damage

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/treat-repair-moledamaged-lawn-75987.html

http://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/current-insecticide-approaches-for-white-grub-control

http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/agr/agr55/agr55.pdf(Turf Maintenance Calendar – cool season grasses)

https://www.qbdfl.com/docs/manuals/YearlyCalendarFloratam.pdf(Turf Maintenance Calendar - warm season grasses)

Pictures:

Fertilizer Spill 01 https://www.plantopedia.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/blaukorn-n8.jpg

Digging Dead Dirt 02 https://www.blackanddecker.com/en-us/~/media/blackanddecker/images/ideas-and-inspiration/projects/repairing-bare-spots/repairing_bare_spots_10.jpg

Animal Urine Dead Spot 03 http://www.handyman.net.au/sites/default/files/g-lawns-late-autumn-yard-dog-spot-on-grass-MAIN.jpg

Ice Melt Damage 04 http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cCwbehAHC58/UtgV_Vot3rI/AAAAAAAAAp8/Z8tmgN4A0gc/s1600/snow+14'+013.JPG

Mechanical Damage 05 http://ecomaids.ca/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/HowToRemoveGrassStains.jpg

Grubs in Soil 06 https://www.amdro.com/-/media/images/amdro-na/us/blog/getting-rid-of-lawn-grubs-hr/getting-rid-of-lawn-grubs-header.jpg

Vole Damage 07 https://themossytree.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/voledamage.jpg

Gasoline Spill 08 https://cleanairyardcare.ca/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/newgascan.jpg

Raking in Grass Seed 09 http://image1.gardenersworld.com/image.jpg?tag=caacd8d9-932b-4b8b-95da-c98201d5b620&width=1024&quality=80

Blackouts & Fertilizer Restrictions

Mon, 06 Aug 2018 04:00:00 GMT

WHY THEY EXIST AND WHAT YOU CAN DO TO KEEP YOUR LAWN HEALTHY

Depending on where you live, you may or may not be familiar with fertilizer application restriction periods, commonly referred to as “blackout periods.” While some see blackout periods as an inconvenience, the majority has come to accept them as an important step in protecting our waterways and the environment. In this article, we’ll learn the science behind why blackout periods exist. We’ll also help you comply with local and state ordinances by giving you tips that will help you keep your lawn a vibrant green during these blackout periods.

WHAT ARE BLACKOUT PERIODS?

Blackout periods are a time frame when fertilizers containing nitrogen and/or phosphorus are not permitted to be applied to turf, ornamentals, or a variety of other plants. Most blackout periods run from early June though late September and are located in tropical/subtropical climates. In the United States, the majority of blackout period laws are enforced on a county to county basis within the state of Florida. Florida blackout periods tend to correlate with the rainy season in this region. In the northeast/mid-Atlantic region, Maryland and New Jersey have their own set of blackout restrictions which run from Nov 15, through March 1. These blackout periods also correlate with this region’s rainy season.

Fig. 1. Florida Blackout Map

Fig. 2. Golf Course Flooding

THE SCIENCE BEHIND BLACKOUT PERIODS

Water is the world’s most precious resource; without it, animal life suffers, and human civilization would not be possible. Blackout periods serve to protect our waterways for the greater good of our environment. In order to understand why blackout periods exist, let’s briefly brush up on our plant biology and ecology.

All plants require primary nutrients for growth and reproduction. In most cases, nitrogen and phosphorous have the greatest impact on plant growth. If either of these nutrients are lacking in the soil, plants tend to suffer. In most soils, phosphorus is already abundant, however adequate nitrogen is lacking; that’s why most fertilizers contain high concentrations of nitrogen. Using turfgrass as an example, when turf is fed an ideal amount of nitrogen under ideal conditions (perfect temperature, adequate water, adequate sunlight), turf maintains a deep green vibrancy and healthy growth rate.

The problem begins when freshly applied fertilizer encounters a multi-day rain event. Much of this water eventually ends up in lakes or bays, and with this water comes excessive amounts of wasted fertilizer that never had a chance of being taken up by lawns and target plants. Eventually, large quantities of dissolved nitrogen and phosphorus collect in shallow lakes and bays, setting the scene for an environmental disaster caused by freshwater algae.

Fig. 3. Freshwater Algal

Fresh water algae are a broad range of photosynthetic organisms. Some are single cellular; some are multi-cellular. Some are more like bacteria, and some are more like plants. Algae are typically divided into two large groups: blue-green algae and brown algae. No matter their classification, most algae tend to be planktonic (free-floating) and require the same primary nutrients as plants (N-P-K.)

When algae, shallow water, sunlight, heat, and excessive fertilizer (mainly nitrogen and phosphorus) are all present, algae grow and multiply at an exponential rate, resulting in an algal bloom . This process is called eutrophication , and the effects are devastating. As the water fills with algae, animal life (such as fish, frogs, mussels, etc.) suffocate. Bottom dwelling fresh water plants die off because the sunlight becomes blocked. This results in a large body of water being depleted of oxygen. Once the algae run out of nutrients, they die off in mass quantities and sink to the bottom. This results in a population spike of bacteria, and the bacteria begin to feed on the algal remains. These same bacteria also consume large quantities of oxygen, further depleting fresh-water bodies of already scare oxygen. Once the bacteria die off, dead zones may form in lakes and bays. Dead zones are regions of water with very little oxygen that can support almost no aquatic life. Dead zones can take years, if not decades to recover from impacts of excessive fertilizer run off.

Fig. 4. Eutrophication & Dead Zones

Fig. 5. Algal Bloom

THE DEADLY EFFECTS OF CYANOTOXINS ON HUMAN AND ANIMAL LIFE

One of the most serious ramifications of fertilizer runoff is cyanobacteria (blue-green algae) blooms. Cyanobacteria produce highly potent toxins called cyanotoxins. This large range of compounds has been shown to harm the liver, kidneys, reproductive system, and nervous system. Some cyanotoxins are believed to be carcinogenic (numerous studies are currently under way to validate these claims). When the concentration of cyanotoxins becomes excessive in drinking water, filtering these toxins out becomes challenging. In extreme situations, municipalities will warn residents not to drink from city water supplies due to the treatment plant’s inability to filter cyanotoxins down to safe levels.

ALTHOUGH INCONVENIENT, SMART FERTILIZER MANAGEMENT PRACTICES BENEFIT US ALL Whether or not an individual chooses to use fertilizer, the choices societies make regarding fertilizer use directly affect human health and the health of the environment. For all these reasons, many states have adopted regulations regarding the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus that can be applied to turf, AND when these nutrients may be applied. (For example, in Maryland, no more than 0.9 lbs N per 1000 sq ft. may be applied at any given application, and no more than 0.7 lbs N per 1000 sq ft. may be readily available nitrogen). These rules exist year-round, in addition to blackout periods. Naturally, many disagree regarding the specifics of some of these rules, but in general, as our knowledge of the science behind fertilizer run-off and eutrophication improves, regulations are re-examined and revised accordingly.

WHAT CAN I DO TO KEEP MY LAWN HEALTHY DURING BLACKOUT PERIODS?

Because blackout periods typically last 3-4 months, it is imperative to make your last fertilizer application prior to the blackout period as effective as possible.

Suggestion: Before applying any fertilizers or soil amendments, check with your local, county, and state governments for ordinances regarding when and how much fertilizer you can put down in a calendar year.

There are many techniques you can use to keep your lawn green until the blackout period ends. Give these tips a try:

1. Use more slow/controlled release nitrogen.

Polymer Coated Sulfur Coated urea (PCSCU, XCU, SCU, etc.) is designed to release nitrogen slowly and continuously throughout a designated time frame. Some slow/controlled release nitrogen products last 30 days; others- 90 days or more. Consider using a fertilizer blend where 75%+ of the total nitrogen in the bag is slow release. This may get you through most or all the blackout period.

2. Deepen your lawn’s green color by supplementing it with an iron product.

Iron sulfate– this is the most common source of iron; it provides a quick greenup and is relatively inexpensive.Be careful around concrete driveways and sidewalks as this product can stain once it dissolves in water.
Iron sucrate– although a little more expensive than iron sulfate, this product also provides a quick greenup that can last several months. Iron sucrate is safer around concrete as it does not stain upon accidental contact.

3. Add a soil amendment that conditions the soil to retain moisture and nutrients (which reduces leaching and volatilization). AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate was specially formulated for blackout periods and is designed to take advantage of reduced fertilizer inputs to keep your lawn healthy and green all year long. AMP-XC (L) contains the following:

Humic Substances – humic and fulvic acid condition the soil to 1.) retain soil moisture 2.) chelate micronutrients in the soil and 3.) stimulate root growth so that root systems can find more nutrients in the root zone and access more water
Microbial Metabolites – these amino acids, organic acids, protein hydrolysates and other organic compounds provide turf all the building blocks it needs to accelerate its growth and metabolism
Chelated Iron – 100% soluble EDTA iron gets into plant roots more efficiently than any other form of iron; great for maximum greening during blackout periods

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

http://mda.maryland.gov/SiteAssets/Pages/fertilizer/TT119.pdf

https://www.epa.gov/nutrient-policy-data/cyanobacteriacyanotoxins

https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/eutrophication.html

https://www.nj.gov/dep/healthylawnshealthywater/

https://www.cga.ct.gov/2012/rpt/2012-R-0076.htm

http://mda.maryland.gov/Pages/fertilizer.aspx

https://www.volusia.org/services/community-services/extension/horticulture/fertilizer-faqs.stml

Pictures:

Blackout Periods 01 - Eutrophication & Dead Zones http://slideplayer.com/slide/1660466/7/images/25/Eutrophication+and+Dead+Zones.jpg

Blackout Periods 02 - Algal Bloom http://www.miseagrant.umich.edu/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/hab/hab-dsc_5400.jpg

Blackout Periods 03 - Florida Blackout Map gcmonline.com/news/adopting-seasonal-fertilizer-blackout-periods (note, this link is dead)

Blackout Periods 04 – Eutrophication in Lake Erie http://ecofore.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/lake-erie-is-dead.jpg

Blackout Periods 05 – Algal Bloom 2 http://blogs.edf.org/growingreturns/files/2015/10/Ohio-Wetlands-Association.jpg

Blackout Periods 06 – Algal Bloom 3 https://toxics.usgs.gov/photo_gallery/photos/emer_cont/cyanobac/AlgaeBloomSign_MarionReservoirKS_003_l.jpg

Blackout Periods 07 - Impact of Cyanotoxins http://www.cleanwateraction.org/sites/default/files/The%20Health%20Impacts%20of%20Cyanotoxins.jpg

Blackout Periods 08 - Golf Course Flooding http://www.calgaryherald.com/news/alberta/cms/binary/10042271.jpg?size=640x420

Blackout Periods 09 - Freshwater Algae http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lGEkrjygcpM/VRM-QOVz3gI/AAAAAAAADZ8/VDu3oGr9kbk/s1600/freshwater-algae.jpg

What's that Weed? Dollarweed!

Thu, 05 Jul 2018 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Dollarweed, also commonly known as Pennywort, is a summer perennial broadlead weed. Dollarweed is a member of the parsley family, housing numerous different species including: marsh pennywort, coastal plain pennywort, many-flowered pennywort, whorled pennywort to name a few. This weed reproduces from rhizomes (a continuously growing horizontal underground stem that puts off lateral shoots and adventitious roots at intervals), seeds, as well as has tuber plant parts that aid in dollarweed's propagation.

WHERE IT GROWS Dollarweed can infest many species of turf grass native to North America, particularly in southern regions. Dollarweed thrives in warm, humid climates. Dollarweed is resilient in areas in the southern United States, particularly raging in southern Florida where it can take over St. Augustine lawns. Dollarweed thrives in turf that is weak and thin, especially in: home lawns with poor turf maintenance, golf fairways and roughs, sports and playing fields, as well as industrial grounds. Often, this weed is found in wet to moist areas of turf or anywhere where moisture is in excess.

NOTE: Plant size can adapt to frequent mowing, reducing leaves to 1cm in diameter and expanding to 6-10 cm when un-mowed. This can be commonly seen in fairway management on golf courses.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Dollarweed grows low to the ground and has green, glossy leaves that are round with scalloped edges (imagine a lily pad). Some leaves can grow up to the size of a silver dollar—hence the name! The petiole or the stalk that joins a leaf to a stem is long and slender and is attached to the center of the leaf, forming an umbrella-like appearance. During the summer months, clusters of white flowers appear, arranging as elongated spikes or as rounded umbels at the top of a long stalk. The fruit appears greenish in color, rounded and somewhat flattened.

NOTE: Dollarweed can be confused with dichondra. Understand that dicondra's petiole is attached to the edge of a kidney shaped leaf.

GROWING SEASON

Dollarweed tends to emerge in early summer and can live up to two years!

HOW TO MANAGE

Because dollarweed reproduces from rhizomes, it's difficult to kill once it takes hold in the soil. The best method for removing dollarweed is to follow these good cultural methods.. First try to minimize irrigation since dollarweed is a water-loving species. Most turf grass can survive with less moisture than dollarweed can. Second is to maintain a healthy, dense turf with a strong root system and a good lawn fertility/care routine to prevent dollarweed from spreading by rhizomes. Next, ensure the correct mowing height for your turf species and avoid lawn scalping. Finally, establish proper aeration and thatch management practices so dollarweed cannot move into lawns.

For intense dollorweed infestations, use a post-emergent herbicide that contains the active ingredient (AI) Penoxsulam, a proven herbicide control technology that targets dollarweed (among other weeds as well). Apply the post-emergent in spring (NOTE: Avoid the use of herbicides in the heat of summer, as they will cause more stress to turf). Once applied, DO NOT mow or cut back the dollarweed in any way; allow the herbicide to absorb into the shoot tissue so that it may be transported down to the roots. Because dollarweed is an invasive, tough weed to control throughout the growing season, repeat applications of post-emergent herbicides can be done in both spring and fall. Continue as necessary and follow all label application instructions.

NOTE: Be sure to know your grass type prior to applying any herbicide control product on turf! Certain AI's will have adverse effects to certain lawn types. Read the full product label to make sure the product can be used for the turf grass species needed to be treated. Contact a local lawn care expert to help identify turf species in your region.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

3 Summer Turf Diseases …and How to SOLVE THEM ALL!

Thu, 05 Jul 2018 04:00:00 GMT

Each season comes with its own set of stresses and challenges for turf grass. While it’s true that in general, more heat and moisture will increase the growth rate of common turf grasses, too much of either of these elements can add significant stress to turf. Extreme conditions sometimes foster an environment that encourages turf pathogens to take hold. Now that summer is in full swing, let’s look at three common summer turf diseases Brown Patch, Pythium Blight and Summer Patch. Spotting these diseases in the early stages will help you mitigate damage from these diseases before it becomes all encompassing.

BROWN PATCH

What to look for

Also known as “Rhizoctonia blight,” brown patch is caused by Rhizoctonia fungi. Brown patch becomes problematic during periods of high heat and humidity. It is most pervasive when low temperatures bottom out near 70F and day temperatures routinely exceed 85F. While warm season grasses are not immune, Brown Patch typically affects cool season grasses more severely.

Rhizoctonia fungi pathogens begin by infecting the leaf blade. A brownish-purple band borders the lesions in the infected blade region. Sometimes turf can withstand blade infections, but should the fungus work its way into the crown (the actively growing region of the turf at ground level), most turf cannot survive. Brown patch starts as a small circle, then quickly expands in all directions, often leaving an affected patch more than 3 ft in diameter. A ‘smoke-ring’ with a blue or white appearance can often be seen on the leading edge of the patch as the fungal pathogen expands into healthy turf. ‘Cobweb-like’ structures can sometimes be seen when sunlight hits early morning dew in affected patches. These structures are the mycelium of the fungus; they are essentially filament-like extensions that help the fungus spread into new territory.

What to do

The rate of brown patch infection is completely dependent on various environmental factors. Unfortunately, a large patch can develop from perfectly healthy turf in under 24 hours, making this one of the more aggressive turf pathogens. Fungicides may be applied, however once the problem is spotted, most of the damage has probably already been done. In the event of an infection, curtail the use of nitrogen fertilizers. If possible, ensure the affected soil has adequate drainage. Once the patch has stopped expanding, begin the remediation process by sparingly using slow-release fertilizer (less than .25lbs/1000sqft). To accelerate recovery, adjust your mower height to a slightly higher setting and allow the turf to fill back in.

PYTHIUM BLIGHT

What to look for

Also known as “grease spot” or “cottony blight,” Pythium blight can be problematic for a variety of ryegrasses and bentgrasses. Pythium blight is typically identified as a smattering of irregularly shaped spots ranging from .5 to 4 inches in diameter. Affected areas turn brown quickly. Similar to that of Brown patch, the mycelium of the Pythium fungus can sometimes be seen on dew-soaked turf in the early morning. Pythium is an extremely hardy fungus, often overwintering in spore form inside grass clipping and other biodegrading plant material in the thatch layer. When temperatures exceed 85F, Pythium is particularly destructive.

What to do

Once identified, first cease the use of all fertilizers. The application of a fungicide is highly recommended the moment this fungus becomes problematic. On turf that has a history of Pythium blight, preventative fungicide applications are recommended. Ensure that the turf has adequate drainage. Once the disease appears to have halted its expansion, begin applying low doses of slow release fertilizer. Do not water lawns in the evening or at night. To prevent Pythium outbreaks in subsequent years, consider proper dethatching and aeration techniques in early fall and early spring (before rapid turf growth).

SUMMER PATCH

What to look for

Caused by the fungal pathogen Magnaporthe poae, summer patch (sometimes called ‘Poa patch’) primarily affects Kentucky bluegrass and other smaller fescues. It is particularly aggressive in high-maintenance lawns such as fairways. Summer patch is most commonly observed in areas of high foot traffic, poor drainage, and thatch build-up. The fungal pathogen begins by infecting root systems early in the spring, long before symptoms become visible. Eventually, stressed root systems under high soil temperatures (65F+) succumb to rapid pathogen expansion across the plant. Small circular patches appear in clusters overnight. Within a day or two, patches can expand to more than 12 inches in diameter.

What to do

In the event of a summer patch outbreak, penetrant fungicides are recommended because they are better able to move into the root zone (the primary area of infection), however they are rather expensive, and only recommended in the event of a severe outbreak. The fungicide will be most effective when the pathogen is most active, therefore it is recommended that soil temperatures achieve a maximum of 65F+ for 3 consecutive days before application.

There are many preventive measures that may be employed to reduce the chances of an outbreak. Core aeration/deep tine aeration in the fall and spring assist turf rooting by breaking up the thatch layer and increasing air exchange with the soil. Prolonged, but infrequent irrigation helps to prevent the kind of environmental conditions that encourage the Magnaporthe poae pathogen from establishing. Ensure that turf has an adequate supply nitrogen to reduce plant stress (always follow the recommended application rate of any fertilizer based on the climate and grass species). In the hot summer months, it is recommended that bluegrass and other smaller fescues receive no more than 0.1-0.2 lbs N per 1000sqft. Cutting the turf height to 2.5-3 inches will also reduce turf stress, making it less susceptible to fungal pathogens. Once the pathogen has run its course, new bluegrass blades may begin to fill in from the center outward, however in the more severe cases, topdressing and reseeding may be necessary.

FINAL THOUGHTS Turf diseases caused by fungal pathogens are very difficult to prevent outright because they spread very quickly. Good lawn maintenance practices in conjunction with knowing what symptoms to look for can mean the difference between having to remediate a few small affected patches of turf OR having a full-blown fungal outbreak across your yard. Keep your lawn green and health this summer; when the weather turns hot and humid, stay vigilant!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

https://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/managing-diseases/pythium

https://siteone.com/home/resources-services/technical-support/pythium-blight.aspx

https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/lawn-diseases.html

https://www.trugreen.com/blog/lawn-disease/what-is-brown-patch-lawn-disease

https://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/managing-diseases/summer-patch

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r785100611.html

http://www.msuturfdiseases.net/details/_/summer_patch_18/

Pictures:

http://www.centralsodil.com/media/wysiwyg/brown_patch.jpg (Brown patch 01)

http://www.msuturfdiseases.net/images/galleries/brown-patch/1.jpg(Brown patch 02)

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/e2/b1/bf/e2b1bfd012f17da4017155f47f79e0dc.jpg(Brown patch 03)

http://www.turfdiseases.org/turfdisewp/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Dollar-spot-81.jpg(Brown patch 04)

http://www.turfdiseases.org/turfdisewp/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Pythium-blight-51.jpg (Pythium blight 01)

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_sy6qQG9pOaw/TFrqTk6DLwI/AAAAAAAAA8M/HNgfEKz-eGA/s1600/Pythium+2.JPG(Pythium blight 02)

http://www.turfdiseases.org/turfdisewp/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Pythium-blight-21.jpg(Pythium blight 03)

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f8/Pythium_%28257_23%29.jpg/1200px-Pythium_%28257_23%29.jpg(Pythium blight – fungi – 04)

http://www.turfdiseases.org/turfdisewp/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/summer-patch-31.jpg

http://simplygreenlawncare.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/core.jpg

http://www.turfdiseases.org/turfdisewp/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/summer-patch-21.jpg

READY, SET, SOD!

Tue, 03 Jul 2018 04:00:00 GMT

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT INSTALLING AND MAINTAINING SOD

Whether you’re a professional landscaper looking to improve your customers greenspace, or you’re a homeowner looking to completely remake your bumpy, weed-infested lawn, establishing new turf from sod is a quick way to enhance the curb appeal of any property. In this feature, we’ll walk through the sod installation and maintenance processes. We’ll also explore which fertilizers and soil amendments you should use to help your sod quickly adapt to its new home. Let’s get started!

WHY CHOOSE SOD OVER SEED?

There are advantages and disadvantages to establishing a lawn from either seed or sod. Typically, establishing a lawn from seed is less expensive, however it can take several months for grass seed to germinate and bulk up, leaving your yard covered in straw. Sod can be installed almost any time of year because its complex root systems are better able to withstand abiotic stresses (such as heat and mild drought). The most significant advantage is the look and feel of a finished lawn within a day or two.

CHOOSING YOUR SOD VARIETY

Most grass varieties that are available for seeding are also available in sod form. It is important to choose a variety that is well adapted for your climate and local environment (sun vs. shade levels on property). One of the more popular cool season grasses used in the northern United States is Kentucky Bluegrass, however it should be noted that this variety does not perform well in extreme heat and drought. If selecting Kentucky Bluegrass, it is highly recommended to keep this variety adequately irrigated.

See the lawn grass comparison chart to assist in choosing the right Sod for you!

GROUND PREPARATION

No matter the reason(s) for beginning a new lawn from sod, it is imperative that the ground be properly conditioned to give the sod the best chance for thriving. The best times of year to sod are spring, later summer, and fall.

If removing an old lawn, first use a wide-spectrum all purpose herbicide (such as glyphosate). This will kill all pre-existing grass and weeds. This step typically takes a few weeks to complete. Once you are certain the lawn and weeds are dead, you can use a gas-powered sod cutter to undercut the grass and weeds, freeing them from the topsoil below. Dispose of appropriately.

Next, performs a soil test to determine the pH level of the soil. If the soil is acidic, adjust with a lime product accordingly (example: Hi-Calcium Lime powered by TCS AMP-XC™ #902560 )

If the soil is alkaline, adjust with peat, compost, aluminum sulfate, elemental sulfur, or iron sulfate. When adjusting the pH, these soil amendments should be tilled into the top 2-3 inches of the top soil. If the soil is also heavy in clay or suffering from compaction, consider adding gypsum (example: TCS Gypsum #902817 , #902816 ) to increase porosity.

NOTE: even sandy soils are susceptible to compaction, so avoid compacting soils with heavy equipment as much as possible.

Next, make sure the top soil has been leveled and smoothed; this will ensure the underside of the sod has maximum contact with the top soil. During this process (once again), avoid compacting the soil as much as possible. The last step in ground preparation is to spread a starter fertilizer across the top soil. There is no need to rake it in, as the sod will be placed directly atop the fertilizer. Consult the grower for sod-specific fertilizer recommendations.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT DEPLOY ANY FERTILIZERS WITH PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDES, AS THESE MAY HINDER ROOT DEVELOPMENT IN ESTABLISHING SOD.

SOD INSTALLATION

Once the ground has been adequately prepared, it’s time to take delivery of your sod. Sod is typically harvested within 24-48 hours of being installed. Most sod comes in the form of large rectangular sheets. These sheets are rolled or stacked, then transported direct to the installation site. It is critical that the sod be installed within 48 hours of harvest. Beyond 48 hours, sod starts to desiccate, as well as suffer from lack of sunlight.

Before starting, make sure the soil is either dry or slightly moist.

IMPORTANT: Never lay new sod down on saturated soil; this can lead to compaction, drainage issues, and the potential for fungal outbreaks under warm conditions.

When installing sod, orient the sheets in a staggered formation, just as if you were laying bricks. Make sure sod edges are tightly pressed against each other. As sod begins to dry out, each sheet will shrink leaving gaps between sheets. These gaps are unsightly and create the perfect environment for weeds to grow. This can be avoided by molding the edges of adjoining sod pieces together, much like molding two pieces of clay into each other.

Once the sod has been deployed, use a roller to press the sod firmly against the top soil. This will accelerate root growth by eliminating air pockets and create a smoother, more level lawn.

The last step is absolutely the most important: water well! New sod need lots of water, more so than lawns starting from seed. In general, sod should be watered 3 times a day during the first week, twice a day during the 2nd week, once a day during the 3rd week, and then as needed beyond week 3. Failing to provide sod with adequate water during rooting could causing yellowing, and in some cases, the death of an entire sod sheet. You’ll know the sod has rooted well once the sheet resists any attempt to lift it off the ground.

IMPORTANT: DON’T FORGET THESE GREAT FOLLOW UP TIPS TO KEEP YOUR NEW SOD IN TOP SHAPE! Keep foot traffic to a minimum until sod is well rooted (usually a few months).
After the sod is well rooted, Aerate in early to mid-fall, and then once more in the spring if necessary
Use a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring to keep your lawn weed free through the year (don’t miss this step!).
Use good lawn keeping practices through the remainder of the year.

GIVE YOUR NEW SOD THE EDGE WITH THESE FERTILIZER AND SOIL AMENDMENT RECOMMENDATIONS FROM TURF CARE SUPPLY!

Once your sod is set, apply AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate after the first watering. Apply 2oz per 1000 sq. ft. on the first application, then 1oz per 1000 sq. ft. once a month through the fall. AMP-XC (L) has the following ingredients to accelerate the transplanting and rooting processes:

Microbial metabolites – beneficial organic compounds that provide growing turf all the build blocks they need to accelerate their metabolism and growth rate
Chelated iron – 100% soluble iron to help keep sod a deep green during the rooting process
7% Humic Substances – loaded with microbially derived humic and fulvic acids, these compounds help reduce soil compaction, chelated micronutrients, create an idea environment for beneficial soil microbes, and help retain water in the root zone (critically important for establishing sod)

Use a starter fertilizer that contains phosphorus at a rate of 1.0 to 1.5 lbs P per 1000 sq. ft. about 4-6 weeks after setting sod (Example: TCS GrowStar Starter Fertilizers )

Apply nitrogen at a rate of 0.5 lbs N per 1000 sq. ft. about 4-6 weeks after setting sod. Using a fertilizer with at least 30% slow release nitrogen will assist in more evening feeding and less of a pH shift in the soil.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

https://turf.unl.edu/NebGuides/Establishingturffromsod2012m.pdf

https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-lay-sod-to-start-new-lawns-2132203

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/how-to-lay-sod

http://www.turfgrasssod.org/pages/consumer-resources/types-of-grasses/

Pictures:

Sod 01 (new backyard) - http://www.assiniboine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Sod_3-1024x670.jpg

Sod 02 (laying sod) - http://challengerirrigation.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/August-Challenger-Planting-New-Sod.jpg

Sod 03 (installing sod) - https://kglandscape.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/sod-install-minneapolis-mn.jpg

Sod 04 (sod sheets) - https://kglandscape.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/sod-install-minneapolis-mn.jpg

Sod 05 (rolling new sod) - https://kglandscape.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/sod-install-minneapolis-mn.jpg

Sod 06 (tilling dirt) - https://kglandscape.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/sod-install-minneapolis-mn.jpg

Sod 07 (spreading lime) - https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/fertilizer-spreader.jpeg

Sod 08 (fertilizer on dirt) - https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/fertilizer-spreader.jpeg

Sod 09 (harvesting sod) - https://www.agsod.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/big-roll.jpg

Sod 010 (brick pattern) - https://www.agsod.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/big-roll.jpg

Sod 011 (watering sod) - https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/lawn-watering-tips-5.jpg

Sod 012 (aerification) - https://www.turfmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/AEside.jpg

TurfCare™ Academy: The Science Behind Humic Substances

Fri, 15 Jun 2018 04:00:00 GMT

THE SCIENCE BEHIND HUMIC SUBSTANCES

Did you know not all humic substances are alike? The category of “humic substances” represents a large variety of humic compounds with very different properties. Some humics are beneficial; others have little or no benefit to plants. Did you know that most states don’t require manufactures of fertilizers and soil amendments to tell you which kinds of humic substances are inside their products? Don’t be fooled into purchasing humic-based products that don’t work! Learning the basic science behind humic substances will give you the tools you need to understand which humic-based products have the most value.

WHAT ARE HUMIC SUBSTANCES?

Humic substances are the organic components of soils. Humics are comprised of phenols, lignins, lipids, sugars, esters, quinones and other mild organic acids. They are essentially the biodegraded remains of plant matter due to microbial activity. Humic substances represent the furthest state of decomposition of organic material in the soil.

WHERE DO HUMIC SUBSTANCES COME FROM?

Humic substances come from composting vegetation, peat bogs, manure, and sapropels (organically rich sediments found at the bottom of a river, lake, or marine water body). These humics are considered “short-term processed humics” because the amount of time it takes to biodegrade vegetative tissues in these environments is relatively short (only a few months to a few thousand years). Humic substances can also be found in much higher concentrations in lignite, leondardite, and brown coal. These humics are considered “long term processed humics” because the biodegradation process typically takes place over millions of years. Long term processing of humic substances is enhanced by heat and pressure.

HOW ARE HUMIC SUBSTANCES PROCESSED?

Before humic substances can be applied to the soil, they must first be extracted and purified. Humics may be processed one of two ways: chemically or biologically. Most humic substances are chemically extracted from lignite or leonardite ore via a series of acid and base reactions. The end product is very pure, but the use of caustic chemical reagents makes this process environmentally unfriendly. Chemically processed humics substances typically have a moderately high pH (9-10 avg).

Conversely, biologically processed humic substances are extracted using common soil microbes. With this method, plant material is broken down in a series of biological reactors in a controlled, industrial environment. Biologically processed humic is an environmentally friendly process and has the added benefit of generating a product with a near neutral pH.

WHICH KINDS OF HUMIC SUBSTANCES ARE BENEFICIAL?

When it comes to humic substances, molecule size and solubility are the two largest factors that determine how beneficial humics are to plants. A typical fraction of humic substances found in nature is divided into 3 components: fulvic acids, humic acids, and humins. These compounds are listed in order of molecular size from smallest to largest (see Figure 1). In general, fulvic acids are the most biologically active and beneficial to plants. Smaller size humic substances (such as fulvic acids) tend to be more soluble and lighter in color. Fulvic acids have one more benefit over humic acids and humins; they are soluble in both acidic and alkaline soils. Humic acids are almost as beneficial as fulvic acids except they slightly larger in size, darker in color, and only soluble in alkaline soils. Humins have the largest molecular size of all humic substances. Unfortunately, they provide little value as a soil amendment. Humins are extremely dark, have a thick mud-like texture in water, and are completely insoluble at any pH (see Figure 2).

HOW DO FULVIC ACIDS AND HUMIC ACIDS BENEFIT PLANTS?

Now that we’ve established which humic substances are beneficial (fulvic acid and humic acid) and which have little value (humins), let’s discuss why beneficial humic substances are so valuable to plants. Fulvic acids and humic acids perform three critical functions in plant-soil systems:

Stimulate Root Development
Chelate Metal ions in the Soil
Retain Water in the Soil

1. HUMIC SUBSTANCES STIMULATE ROOT DEVELOPMENT (REFERENCE FIGURE 3)

Studies have shown that when plant roots are in contact with humic substances, those roots grow faster and become more developed. In general, humic substances promote more root cores per plant, and more lateral root hairs per root core. Turf that has a well-developed root system is better able to 1.) Absorb water and nutrients from the soil and 2.) Withstand the stress of root-feeding insects and physical agitation (i.e. foot-traffic).

2. HUMIC SUBSTANCES CHELATE METAL IONS IN THE SOIL

Micronutrient minerals in the soil (such as iron, magnesium, copper, zinc, and manganese) play numerous critical roles in the metabolism of all plants. Without them, plants couldn’t photosynthesize, respire, or produce metabolites necessary for survival. Humic substances can chelate (grab and temporarily hold) metal ions in the soil. When a root encounters a chelated metal ion, the humic substance releases its hold and the ion is absorbed by the root. Some humic substances can hold more metal ions per unit area than others; this means they have a higher cation exchange capacity, or CEC . Sandy soils have very low CEC, which means macro and micronutrients tend to leach quickly from soils. If adding a micronutrient mix to your soil, also consider adding humic substances to reduce leaching potential and increase micronutrient uptake.

Figure 4 is the structure of a typical fulvic acid molecule. Note how fulvic acid works like a “glue” to chelate various kinds of metal ions (micronutrients) in the soil. Most humic substances transfer their metal ions when they adsorb against a root, however some fulvic acids molecules are so small, they can be absorbed by the plant root entirely with the metal ion still chelated.

3. HUMIC SUBSTANCES RETAIN WATER IN THE SOIL Of all the stresses terrestrial plants face in an average year, none is more prevalent that drought stress. Without water, plant life is not possible. Water drives the circulatory system of plants; everything from macro µonutrients to salts, sugars, and metabolites are either dissolved or suspended in water. In times of drought, plants deploy several defensive strategies, however if a plant can’t access enough water to drive its circulatory system, it desiccates and dies. Lower molecular weight humic substances act like a sponge in the soil. Fulvic and humic acids are very soluble; an average size humic acid molecule can hold up to eight times its weight in water! Humic substances help mitigate the effects of drought by retaining more water in the soil. More water means a greener, healthier turf, particularly in the harsh summer months.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Pictures :

http://www.mikkat.com.au/images/Biohumates/OM.jpg

http://www.saosis.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/fulvic_acid_humic_acid.jpg

http://home.fulvicforce.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Humic-substances-classification-1024x770.png

http://www.fulvicforce.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/FA-chelation.jpg

Turf[TECH]Report: Post-Emergent Herbicides

Thu, 14 Jun 2018 04:00:00 GMT

ALL U NEED 2 KNOW - FROM CHEMISTRIES TO MODES-OF-ACTION! Warmer temperatures have finally arrived, and in some parts of the United States it has already had months of consistent sunny heat! Unfortunately, along with the arrival of warmer days typically comes weeds. For a weed free lawn all year long, a timely application of nitrogen coupled with a pre-emergent herbicide is an important first step to take as soon as temperatures climb into the 50s. But due to unpredictable weather or missing the application all together, there is a good possibility that weeds have infested your lawn. And once weeds take hold, they don’t leave willingly. The solution: post-emergent herbicides. In this feature, we will teach you everything you need to know about post-emergent herbicides, from the different classifications of chemistries to the modes-of-action.

WHAT ARE POST-EMERGENT HERBICIDES?

Post-emergent herbicides are designed to kill plants AFTER they have germinated and established in the soil. This is as opposed to pre-emergent herbicides, which are designed to kill newly germinating plants BEFORE they can firmly establish in the soil. Post-emergent herbicides can further be divided into two categories: selective and non-selective. Selective post-emergent herbicides have been engineered to target only weeds (typically broadleaf weeds), sparing most grasses and non-target plants. An example of a selective post-emergent herbicide is atrazine. Non-selective post-emergent herbicides kill all plants, INCLUDING all grass types. Non-selective herbicides are used by farmers to kill all the weeds in a field before planting new crops, as well as by landscapers who are completely reworking the soil to grow new turf. The most common example of a non-selective post-emergent herbicide is glyphosate.

SYSTEMIC VS. CONTACT HERBICIDES

Post-emergent herbicides also vary in their modes-of-action. Some are systemic herbicides, which means the herbicide is typically absorbed through the root system and transported throughout the plant. Systemic herbicides slowly kill all the tissues comprising a plant, both above and below ground. On the other hand, contact herbicides are typically applied foliarly and only kill the vegetative tissue they touch. In most cases, contact herbicides either disrupt photosynthesis or chemically burn the plant (which also indirectly affects photosynthesis). Either way, plants treated with contact herbicides die because plants that can’t make their own food, nor transport their food to critical tissues, starve to death.

WHAT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS COMPRISE MANY COMMON POST-EMERGENT HERBICIDES?

1) Atrazine

Atrazine is a systemic, selective post-emergent herbicide used to control common broadleaf weeds. While used extensively in ag across the eastern United States (especially in corn fields), atrazine is used to control weeds in turf primarily in the south. Atrazine is absorbed by the roots and transported to leaf tissue where it disrupts photosynthesis. Atrazine typically takes 14-21 days to kill weeds from the moment of absorption by roots. Atrazine has been proven to be both safe and reliable, according to decades of research performed by the EPA.

2) 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid(commonly referred to as 2,4-D)

2,4-D is another systemic, selective post-emergent herbicide. In fact, it is one of the oldest and most popular herbicides on the market. To date, over 1500 different herbicides contain 2,4-D as a component of their mixtures. 2,4-D kills broadleaf weeds by mimicking the effect of the plant hormone auxin. After being taken up by the roots, 2,4-D is transported to the growth regions of stems and leaves, where it causes uncontrolled cell division and growth. Ultimately, the accelerated rate of growth outpaces the weed’s food supply, and the weed starves to death.

3) Dicamba

Dicamba is a systematic, selective post-emergent herbicide that has been on the market since 1967. It’s mode-of-action is similar to that of 2,4-D because it accelerates cell division in weeds, thus causing plants to starve themselves. Dicamba is primarily used to control brush and weeds in pastures, range lands, and non-crop grassy areas (such as along fences, roadways, and buildings). In more arid climates, dicamba is used to control grasslands against cacti and legumes. Dicamba is toxic to conifers and certain species of evergreens, so landscapers must know their surroundings and apply with care. Dicamba is also highly soluble in water, therefore it is not recommended to apply it when significant rain is imminent. Dicamba has a very low toxicity and readily biodegrades in the environment due to microbial activity.

4) Methylchlorophenoxypropionic acid (commonly referred to as“Mecoprop-P Acid” or“MCPP”)

Mecoprop-P was first registered in 1964 and has been used extensively in post-emergent control products since its creation. MCPP is popular on many turf types, including athletic fields, golf courses, and sod farms. MCPP provides selective, systematic control of certain annual grasses and broadleaf weeds by disrupting the cell division process. Because of MCPP’s relatively low toxicity, it is a preferred component of many post-emergent herbicide formulations. MCPP residues that don’t penetrate plant tissues quickly biodegrade into safe components in the environment.

5) Penoxsulam

Penoxsulam was developed in the mid-2000s to help control weeds in rice fields and cereal crops. In turf, it is used to control against a variety of broadleaf weeds and a few target grasses (such as centipede grass and some crabgrass varieties). Penoxsulam has a fairly low toxicity, however it takes longer than most post-emergent herbicides to work. Penoxsulam must be in contact with plant tissues for nearly 60 days before most weeds parish. Penoxsulam is found in a wide variety of weed & feed products in retail stores.

6) Glyphosate

Perhaps the most recognizable herbicide in the world, glyphosate is non-selective, systematic post-emergent herbicide. First discovered in 1970, glyphosate hit the market only 4 years later. Glyphosate was as HUGE game changer in ag; farmers could now spray glyphosate in their fields without harming their crops.

Today, glyphosate is the 2nd most-used herbicide in the home sector in terms of volume (the first being 2,4-D). Glyphosate works to prevent plants from being able to synthesize 3 critical amino acids: phenylalanine,tyrosine, and tryptophan. It does this by inhibiting a key enzyme in the metabolic pathway of these amino acids. Without these 3 enzymes, plants cannot produce critical proteins necessary for survival. In essence, the plant starves. Glyphosate is most commonly absorbed through foliar tissue but can also be absorbed in smaller amounts by roots. It is systemically transported throughout the entire plant, affecting all tissue types. Once applied, most weeds take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to die. Significantly larger weeds (such as Canadian thistle) may require multiple applications over a month to be effective.

TIP: HOW TO CONTROL ESTABLISHED CRABGRASS

Crabgrass is one of the most stubborn “weeds” to remove from established turf. Crabgrass has a high resistance threshold to many of the common post-emergent herbicides which is why it is best controlled using pre-emergent herbicides early on in its lifecycle. Metharsenate (MSMA) is one of a few post-emergent herbicides that will help control crabgrass, however it usually takes multiple applications and often causes mild discoloration in the surrounding non-target turf. Dithiopyr has also been reported to have limited post-emergent capabilities against crabgrass, but only in the one to three leaf stage. It should be noted that both MSMA and Dithiopyr have mixed results on well-established crab grass.

For more severe outbreaks, fenoxyprop and quinclorac are typically more effective, these products are usually only available to the professional industry. Application by professional lawn care operator is highly recommended. For those unable to acquire these chemicals, large clumps of crabgrass can also be controlled by carefully spraying the target with glyphosate, and then reseeding after the crabgrass has been eliminated.

IMPORTANT: KEEP ON THE OFFENSIVE!

Remember, the best defense is a good offense. Eliminate weeds this summer with the use of post-emergent herbicides AND keep them from reappearing next spring with a timely pre-emergent application. Executing this strategy will help your turf fill in nicely in areas where weeds once grew. This in turn will make it much harder for weed seeds to establish in the future.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/resources/crabgrass-control-in-home-lawns

https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/atrazine-background-and-updates

https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/24-d

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/24Dgen.html

http://www.panna.org/sites/default/files/dicamba-NCAP.pdf

https://www.beyondpesticides.org/assets/media/documents/pesticides/factsheets/mecoprop.pdf

https://dnr.wi.gov/lakes/plants/factsheets/PenoxsulamFactsheet.pdf

https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/glyphosate

https://www.thespruce.com/best-crabgrass-killers-to-keep-lawn-weed-free-2132459

What's that Weed? Creeping Thistle

Wed, 06 Jun 2018 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Creeping Thistle is an herbaceous perennial weed with sharp, prickly leaves (sometimes with lilac-pink flowers) that emerges in early June and can infest landscapes throughout the U.S. through late October. A member of the Asteraceae family of thistles, this weed can spread rapidly via its highly aggressive spreading root system, or its ability to scatter thousands of seeds in a short time.

WHERE IT GROWS

Native to Europe and Asia, this weed has been widely introduced to most of the globe. In the eastern U.S., it dominates north of the Ohio River and the Mason-Dixson line (with exception to West Virginia, where it is has also become well-established). West of the Mississippi River, Creeping Thistle has spread across most of the United States with exception to the southern Great Plains.

Creeping Thistle is the most common thistle species in the U.S. It prefers recently disturbed/cultivated grounds (such as vegetable gardens), road side and field edges, and other patches of relatively barren soil. Barren patches of turf provide an ideal germinating for wind-dispersed thistle seeds. The best defense against a creeping thistle invasion is a dense, well-established turf.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Creeping Thistle consists of tiny pink/lilac florets which comprise a larger flower head. Each complete head sits atop a spiny bract (a circular arrangement of leaf-like tissues at the apex of the stem). Its slender green stem ranges anywhere from 30 to 150cm tall. Its spiny leaves alternate around the stem, topping out around 20cm in length. Regularly mowed turf is unlikely to see this weed in the flowering stage, however Creeping Thistle is notorious for its spiny leaves which can leave a painful prick.

GROWING SEASON

Creeping Thistle tends to emerge from the soil in early June, with its bright purple flowers dominating roadside landscapes by mid-July. When large stands of this weed begin to seed, the flower heads take on a dense cotton-like appearance. A burst of wind can send thousands of seeds into the air in a matter of seconds. Creeping Thistle continues growing and flowering through October.

HOW TO MANAGE

There are two ways to remove Creeping Thistle, hand removal or herbicide. You can hand remove Creeping Thistle from gardens or lawns using thick gloves to avoid their prickly leaves. However, since Creeping Thistle produces an extensive root network so you need to assure all roots have been successfully removed to avoid re-establishment (even traces of roots can lead to new thistle shoots). Each individual plant can send up multiple shoots, giving the appearance that there are many more individual plants than in reality. In addition, when removing by hand you want to avoid spreading the flower's light fluffy seeds. In order to prevent germination of thistle seeds, make sure any large thistle stands are removed before flowering. Creeping Thistle seeds can quickly be blown to other areas of your landscape and rapidly take over. Once removed, throw the weed away and do not try to compost them because traces of roots or seeds will quickly establish new plants.

If herbicides are the preferred method of removing Creeping Thistle, apply when the weed is actively growing in the spring or early fall. You can use a broad-spectrum herbicide that will not damage trees or other ornamentals in a shared root zone (such as 2,4-D MCPA, Triclopyr or Dicamba) or a non-selective herbicide (glyphosate) when you can safely target the weed directly. In most cases, apply the herbicide in a heavier than normal concentration, as Creeping Thistle has a root network often larger than its above ground shoot mass and multiple treatments may be necessary. Once applied, DO NOT mow or cut back the thistle in any way; allow the herbicide to absorb into the shoot tissue so that it may be transported down to the roots.

PREVENTION

Creeping Thistle typically thrives in low fertility soils so amending the soil and improving the environment for your preferred plants and turf can reduce its appearance. You can also avoid this weed by applying a pre-emergent herbicide/fertilizer application in the early spring that will prevent it, or any thistle species, from taking hold of your lawn throughout the season.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/control-creeping-thistle-24281.html

http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/species/creeping-thistle

https://www.uaf.edu/files/ces/cnipm/k12/webinars/Creeping%20thistle%20management.pd

http://www.organicresearchcentre.com/manage/authincludes/article_uploads/1716-thistle.pdf

https://www.wyevalegardencentres.co.uk/tips-and-advice_how-to-control-creeping-thistle

https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Thistles

Pictures:

http://uk.dowagro.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/creeping-thistles.jpg

http://newfs.s3.amazonaws.com/taxon-images-1000s1000/Asteraceae/cirsium-arvense-fl-ahaines-a.jpg

http://bugwoodcloud.org/maps/eddmapscounty/2792.jpg

http://image2.gardenersworld.com/image.jpg?tag=d0ecc140-f2e7-4812-87f9-c318299e0790

http://wynnstaydairy.uk/get-tough-with-thistles/

JOE KNOWS! Nitrogen Stabilizers

Fri, 04 May 2018 04:00:00 GMT

TURF'S DEFENSE AGAINST ENVIRONMENTAL NITROGEN LOSS

When it comes to nutrition, most plants (including turf grass) require more nitrogen than any other element to maintain a healthy growth rate and vibrant appearance. Unfortunately, nature is quite effective at hindering both natural and synthetic nitrogen-based fertilizers from reaching their intended targets. Over the last half century nitrogen loss to the environment has forced agronomists and engineers to develop innovative fertilizer technologies that combat this problem.

There are many types of nitrogen fertilizers, including but not limited to straight urea (immediately available N), as well as coated urea and reacted urea (otherwise known as slow or controlled release N ). Coated urea uses a physical barrier (usually sulfur, polymer, wax, or any combination thereof) to slow the release of urea into the soil over time. Reacted urea (such as methylene urea) uses chemistry and microbial activity to control the availability of urea in the soil over time. In this feature, we’ll examine another nitrogen technology called “stabilized nitrogen.” As we’ll discover, stabilized nitrogen can also be tied to microbial activity, however the mode-of-action is quite different from that of reacted urea. Before we can explain how stabilized nitrogen works, we must first look at the nitrogen cycle and understand how nitrogen is deposited and converted in the environment.

NITROGEN CYCLE BASICS

The nitrogen that plants use comes from many sources. Interestingly, earth’s atmosphere is composed of 78% nitrogen. Over time, many plants developed symbiotic relationships with nitrogen fixing bacteria such that these bacteria capture nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form that can be absorbed by plant roots. Other sources of nitrogen include decaying plant matter, animal manures, and biosolids . Today, the most common source of nitrogen used for crops and turf grass is synthetic fertilizer, primarily urea and ammonium sulfate. Regardless of the source, once in the ground nitrogen is constantly being converted from one form to another via numerous biological and chemical modes-of-action.

Plants can only use nitrogen in two forms, ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3-). Unfortunately, nature is constantly fighting to convert nitrogen into something that plants can’t use, hence nitrogen stabilizers disrupt the nitrogen cycle in an all-out battle to keep nitrogen in the forms of ammonium and nitrate for as long as possible. When straight urea is distributed onto the ground, it is quickly converted into ammonium, however if this process occurs above ground, urea is quickly converted into ammonia gas (NH3) due to the interference of key soil bacteria. This process is called volatilization. Once this occurs, the nitrogen is permanently lost to the atmosphere. Remember, plants prefer ammonium (NH4+), but nitrogen is often converted out of this form before plants can get to it. Even if this happens, all is not yet lost. The process of ammonium converting into nitrate (NO3-) is called nitrification. This reaction takes place in two steps: ammonium is converted into nitrite (NO2-), and then nitrite is converted into nitrate (NO3-). These two conversion steps take place thanks to the intervention of two key soil bacteria, Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter. This is important because nitrogen stabilizers have an impact on these bacterias’ ability to convert ammonium into nitrate (we’ll come back to this shortly).

The good news is, even if nitrification takes place, plants can still use nitrate as a nutrient source. The bad news is, nitrates are very susceptible to leaching. Leaching occurs when nitrate dissolves in water and is carried out of the root zone, making it no longer accessible to plants. Nitrates are also susceptible to denitrification. This is a process by which nitrate is converted into a nitrogenous gas and becomes lost to the atmosphere via volatilization (N2 or NO2 gas).

While the nitrogen cycle is a bit complicated, the key message is that nitrogen-based fertilizers are constantly under attack by the environment. Nitrogen stabilizers work to hinder the environment from robbing valuable nitrogen away from plants.

WHAT IS DCD AND HOW DOES IT WORK?

DCD, formally known as dicyandiamide, is a type of nitrogen stabilizer; specifically, it is a nitrification inhibitor. Nitrification inhibitors disrupt the conversion of ammonium into nitrate by inhibiting the first step of the nitrification process. Because nitrification is dependent on soil bacteria, DCD specifically inhibits Nitrosomonas bacteria from converting ammonium into nitrate. The result is ammonium staying present in the soil longer and a significant decrease in nitrogen leaching potential. (see diagram below)

Examples of TurfCare™ Products that contain DCD: UMAXX®, UFLEXX®

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Weed of the Week: Crabgrass

Fri, 04 May 2018 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE:

Crabgrass is a common lawn invader that most people are already familiar with. This is a low growing, grassy summer annual weed that's a troublesome pest that lowers turf quality and appearance. Crabgrass is a prolific seed producer; one plant can produce over 150,000 seeds, making it a difficult weed to eliminate once it has started growing in turf.

There are several species of crabgrass that are problematic to lawns. The two closely related species being discussed throughout this article are large or hairy crabgrass and small or smooth crabgrass. These species of crabgrass roots develop at nodes on the prostrate stems.

HOW TO IDENTIFY:

Large (Hairy) Crabgrass - A rapid growing, coarse textured weed that appears as yellowish-green grass. It is particularly easy to spot against turf that is fine textured and dark green. A bunch like type grassy weed, large crabgrass features seed head spikelets in 2-9 fingerlike branches along the stalk. The weed's leaves appear to be rolled in the bud while the collar is broad with long hairs. Large crabgrass has tall, membranous ligules outgrowth from the sheath that are jagged at the edges and have no auricles. If left alone, this species of crabgrass can grow as tall as 2 ft. tall!

Smooth (Small) Crabgrass - This low-growing weed appears as a light green grass. It can be distinguished from large crabgrass for its smooth appearance or absence of hairs on the leaves and sheaths. Smooth crabgrass offers a prostrate growth habit as well as seed heads that feature two-six fingerlike spiked branches. Although both large and smooth crabgrass species can grow under close mowing heights, smooth crabgrass can survive as well as set seed at grass heights as low as 0.25 inches!

NOTE: Crabgrass is often mistaken for goosegrass. Click to learn more about goosegrass to properly identify grassy lawn invaders.

WHERE IT GROWS:

This weed prefers areas of lawns where turf is weak and experiencing bare spots. Crabgrass favors lawns that have been mowed too short, as well. This weed can be spotted in turf, lawns, ornamental landscapes and vegetable gardens.

GROWING SEASON:

Both large and smooth crabgrass species begin to germinate when soil temperatures reach 55°F for at least 3 consecutive days. Growth and germination will continue throughout summer and into fall. After the first heavy frost, crabgrass will die.

HOW TO MANAGE:

Because crabgrass is a prolific seed producer, it's difficult to kill once it takes hold in the soil. The best method for removing crabgrass is to follow these good cultural methods. First, maintain a healthy, dense turf with a strong root system and a good lawn fertility/care routine to prevent bare spots or weak turf that allows for crabgrass to move in. Next, ensure the correct mowing height for your turf species and avoid lawn scalping since this weed can survive in low-mowed turf. Finally, establish proper irrigation, aeration and thatch management practices so crabgrass cannot establish itself into lawns.

For intense crabgrass infestations, use a herbicide that contain season long pre-emergent and post emergent control. Look for products that contain the active ingredient (AI) dithiopyr, a proven herbicide control technology that provides pre- and post-emergent control for crabgrass and other weeds (NOTE: Avoid the use of herbicides in the heat of summer, as they will cause more stress to turf). Apply the herbicide in early spring when soil temperatures reach 55°F. Once applied, DO NOT mow or cut back the crabgrass in any way; allow the herbicide to absorb into the shoot tissue so that it may be transported down to the roots. Because crabgrass is an invasive, tough weed to control throughout the growing season, repeat applications of herbicides may be needed until the infestation is eradicated.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Pictures:

https://extension.umass.edu/landscape/weeds/digitaria-ischaemum

NY State IPM Program at Cornell University | Flickr

Turf[TECH]Report - Controlled/Slow Release Fertilizers [Part 2]

Sat, 14 Apr 2018 04:00:00 GMT

UNDERSTANDING CRN/SRN RELEASE LABEL LANGUAGE AND PRODUCT REVIEW

This segment of Turf[TECH]Report, is the second of a two-part series. Part 1 focused on how controlled/slow release fertilizers work, and how to compare the various technologies. This series, Part 2 takes the time to teach you how to read and understand controlled/slow release label language and review the different kinds of products on the market. This article will supply you with all the important information you need to determine which slow/controlled release fertilizer is best for you.

HOW TO READ AND UNDERSTAND A SLOW RELEASE NITROGEN FERTILIZER LABEL

Every label containing SRN will show the total amount of nitrogen , the form(s) and percentage(s) of nitrogen, the raw ingredient(s) nitrogen is derived from, and the percent of slow release nitrogen in the bag (as well as the source of the SRN). Let’s break down what these numbers mean.

This fertilizer mix contains 8% nitrogen in the bag and contains Polymer Coated Sulfur Coated Urea. 7.2% of the total bag is urea nitrogen. This means that 90% of all the nitrogen in the bag is slow release urea nitrogen (7.2%/8.0% = 90%). This does NOT mean that 90% of the bag is slow release nitrogen, only that 90% of the total nitrogen is slow release. The remaining nitrogen (.8% of the total bag by content) is ammoniacal nitrogen. Understand that the asterisk at the bottom says *7.2% slowly available nitrogen from polymer coated urea. Because this 7.2% value is the same as the 7.2% urea nitrogen value at the top, we can infer that 100% of all the urea in this fertilizer is in the form of slow release. In other words, there is no “straight urea” floating around in this mix. 100% of the urea is coated. Remember, all percentage values on labels are always based on the total amount of that specific ingredient in the entire bag, NOT the percentage of an ingredient within an elemental subsection.

This fertilizer mix contains 20% total nitrogen in the bag. 10% of the entire bag is ammoniacal nitrogen. Only 1% of the bag is straight urea nitrogen. 4.8% of the bag is water insoluble nitrogen (WIN) (from MU). This means that 4.8% of the nitrogen is not readily accessible and cannot be used by plants until is converted into a usable form (such as straight urea). It takes time for WIN to become accessible (hence WIN is a form of slow-release). Also note that 4.2% of the bag is water soluble nitrogen (WSN) (also from MU). This means that while this nitrogen is still not ready for use by plants, 4.2% of nitrogen is readily dissolvable in water and is ready to be acted on by the environment (in this case, microbes) for conversion into straight urea, which can then be converted once more into usable nitrogen for plants. In the case of this example, the WIN and WSN add up to 9%. The statement at the bottom indicates that 9% of the entire content of the bag is slow release nitrogen (sometime called “slowly available nitrogen”) and is derived from methylene urea. (Remember, the release of MU nitrogen is based on the activity of soil microbes). If the total amount of nitrogen in the bag is 20%, and 9% is slow release nitrogen, then 11% must be the total amount of immediate release nitrogen in the bag.

BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER – REVIEWING THE BENEFITS OF SRNS

The math and science behind how the guaranteed analysis of an SRN label is calculated can become confusing, especially when terms such as “controlled release,” “slow release,” “water soluble nitrogen,” and “water insoluble nitrogen” are often used interchangeably and/or misapplied. Regardless of what something is called, all that matters is understanding the mode-of-action behind the type of slow release nitrogen inside your bag of fertilizer. It is also important to remember that some fertilizers contain 100% SRN, while others contain a mix of both slow and immediate release nitrogen. If you are unsure as to exactly what you are purchasing, always ask the manufacturer or retailer questions so that you don’t end up purchasing the wrong product for your situation.

SUMMARY OF SLOW RELEASE NITROGEN SPECS AND BENEFITS:

SRN comes in two forms: “coated” and “reacted”
Coated: encapsulated urea granule; coated with sulfur, polymer, wax, or any combination thereof
Reacted: chemically or biologically converted by microbes; this slow release is highly influenced by temperature and moisture
Each SRN has a different release profile based on the chemistry and physical science of the fertilizer granule
Release curves report the nitrogen release profile of a SRN and can be used to compare different products
SRNs help deter leaching and volatilization
SRNs are safer for plants; they shift the pH of the ground significantly less than IRNs (burning plants is virtually impossible, even if accidentally over applying fertilizer)
SRNs help reduce the number of fertilizer applications in a growing season resulting in significant labor and energy cost savings.
SRNs are biodegradable and environmentally friendly

WHAT SLOW/CONTROLLED RELEASE NITROGEN PRODUCTS DOES TURF CARE OFFER?

TurfCare™ Supply offers a wide variety of premium SRNs with a well-established reputation for quality and reliability in the turf and ornamental industry. All of our products are available in standard size granules, with some offerings in mini (smaller) and elite (smallest) sizes.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/is/ffldrs/pdfs/Ellison_Eric.pdf

http://www.kochturf.com/products/slowrelease/nutralene/

https://extension.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=9131

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/MAINTAIN/winamt.html

Publication: Controlled Release Fertilizers – AgIndustries Research & Consulting

Turf[TECH]Report - Controlled/Slow Release Fertilizers [Part 1]

Wed, 11 Apr 2018 04:00:00 GMT

WHAT ARE CRN/SRN FERTILIZERS AND HOW DO VARIOUS COATING TECHNOLOGIES COMPARE?

Spring has finally arrived! Time to revive your turf and supply it with what it needs to assure a lush green appearance all season long. So, what’s the key to healthy green turf? Fertilizer. But when it comes to selecting the right fertilizer for the job, with so many different technologies and analyses to choose from, making a selection can seem overwhelming. Whether a professional landscaper, golf course superintendent or do-it-yourselfer, controlled/slow release fertilizers are typically the best choice for your turf. And economically, are a better investment than conventional fertilizers.

This Turf[TECH]Report article will be a two-part series. Since there is so much to learn and discuss regarding controlled/slow release fertilizers we have broken it down into two parts to provide a thorough understanding.

Part 1: What are CRN/SRN Fertilizer and How do Various Coating Technologies Compare?
Part 2: Understanding CRN/SRN Release Label Language and Product Review

It is our hope that by the end of this extended feature, you’ll have the information you need to determine which slow/controlled release fertilizer is right for you. Let’s get started!

WHAT ARE CONTROLLED/SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZERS?

Controlled/Slow Release fertilizers are uniform granules that are designed to release their nutrients into the soil over an extended period of time. The terms “controlled release” and “slow release” are often used interchangeably. Although many sources claim that “controlled release” fertilizers are capsule-based technologies, and “slow release” fertilizers are biologically and temperature dependent, there is still significant confusion as to how these terms are properly used and defined. Regardless of the confusion, all controlled/slow release fertilizers work to protect nutrients (usually nitrogen) from being lost to the environment (through volatilization, denitrification and leaching ). For the duration of this feature, we’ll be focusing exclusively on nitrogen-based controlled/slow release fertilizers.

There are two distinct types of controlled/slow release nitrogen technologies (also known as “SRN”): “coated slow release nitrogen” and “reacted slow release nitrogen.”

Coated slow release nitrogen fertilizers work by encapsulating a nutrient core with a semi-permeable membrane (known as a “coating”) which permits nitrogen-based molecules (such as urea) to trickle out at a slow rate after being dissolved by water. The mode-of-action with coated slow release nitrogen fertilizers is “physical.”

Example: XCU® (Polymer-coated Sulfur-coated Urea) , SCU (Sulfur-coated Urea)

Reacted slow release nitrogen fertilizers work differently; their modes-of-action are biological. With reacted slow release nitrogen technology, formaldehyde is reacted with urea granules to produce both methylene urea and urea-formaldehyde molecules. These new molecules form chains of varying lengths which are designed to work harmoniously with the biology of soil microbes. Over time, soil microbes slowly digest these chains, breaking off one urea molecule at a time. This biological regulation of urea release leads to decreased nitrogen leaching* and volatilization**, as well as increased nitrogen availability over time. Reacted slow release nitrogen is highly influenced by soil temperature and moisture content (because these factors influence microbial activity). Because much of the nitrogen in these products is not immediately soluble in water, these fertilizers are considered partly “water insoluble.” The amount of nitrogen in a fertilizer that is not immediately available to be dissolved by water is called “Water Insoluble Nitrogen” or “WIN.”

Example: Nutraline® (Methylene-Urea or “MU”)

WHY WERE SR (SLOW RELEASE) FERTILIZERS INVENTED?

Like all organisms, plants thrive when key macro and micronutrients are in abundance, however they can only take in so much nutrition at a time. Unfortunately, dumping a large quantity of conventional fertilizer into the soil is not only wasteful, it can be detrimental to the soil and the plant. This is because most conventional fertilizers are “immediate release,” which means 100% of the nutrition in the fertilizer granule is readily dissolved into the soil by water and can be immediately taken up by the plant. The application of excessive immediately release nitrogen (or “IRN”, also referred to as “quick release nitrogen”) is problematic for two reasons:

The plant’s inability to assimilate so much nutrition in a short period of time leads to nutrient loss via leaching and volatilization
Many fertilizers are highly acidic or basic; this results in a radical pH shift in the soi l which may end up burning the plant.

For many decades to avoid these two serious problems, agronomists and turf technicians were forced to apply low-doses of nitrogen frequently to optimize plant nutrient uptake without harming the plant or soil. This process is informally referred to as “spoon-feeding.” Because “spoon-feeding” is economically inefficient, scientists were inspired to create the world’s first coated urea granule. Pioneered by the Tennessee Valley Authority in the late 1960s, the first SRN urea granules were coated with sulfur. Since then, chemists have also devised numerous polymers and waxes to control the release of nitrogen. The innovation of the TVA in the late 60s/early 70s completely revolutionized the fertilizer industries in farming, horticulture and turf. Many of the same fundamental technologies invented by the TVA nearly 50 years ago are still in practice today.

COATED SLOW RELEASE NITROGEN FERTILIZERS (COATED SRNS) – HOW DO THEY WORK?

Coated SRN fertilizers use a physical barrier to slow the release of nitrogen into the soil. Most SRNs have urea at their core. SRN granule coatings are typically comprised of the following materials: elemental sulfur, polymer, and wax. Some SRNs are only coated with sulfur; some only with polymer; and some are coated with a combination of both sulfur and polymer, in addition to a wax layer. Different combinations of coatings produce different results (in terms of how fast nitrogen is released.) Economics play a part too; polymer coated urea is generally more expensive than sulfur coated urea.

All coated SRN granules work on the same principle. Water slowly enters the granule and begins to dissolve the urea inside. The granule slowly expands, and the dissolved urea slowly passes back through cracks in the membrane into the soil, where it is ultimately converted into a form of nitrogen that plants can absorb [ammonium (NH4+) or nitrate (NO3-) through biological or chemical means].

This diagram of a basic sulfur coated urea granule shows the movement of water through the sulfur coating and back out again with dissolved urea. (located to right)

WHAT COATING TECHNOLOGIES ARE AVAILABLE AND HOW DO THEY COMPARE?

Sulfur Coated Urea (SCU) is the least expensive coated SRN to manufacture. Sulfur is initially very effective at repelling water, however sulfur coatings are extremely brittle. Once water finds its way inside, the granule expands and the sulfur coating factures. Once this occurs, dissolved urea flows out quickly. SCU works on the premise that some granules will take longer to fracture and release their nutrients than others. Over the course of time, this “mix” of release times results in continuous nitrogen feeding until the last granules have fractured. Sometimes wax is applied atop the sulfur layer to slow the rate of nitrogen release. Temperature can also affect SRN granules coated with wax because waxes are slowly broken down by soil microbes (microbes are more active in warmer soil temperatures).

Polymer (or Plastic) Coated Urea (PCU) is more expensive to manufacture, but generally has longer and more stable release properties. Polymer coatings are less susceptible to fracturing (abrasion) during transport than sulfur coatings thus their release times are more consistent. Through osmosis, water diffuses through the polymer layer and slowly dissolves the urea core. Over the course of many months, urea slowly dissolves through the polymer layer providing an even, controlled distribution of nitrogen over a large portion of the growing season. Once the urea has been depleted, the thin polymer shell is biodegraded naturally by soil microbes, making PCS technology very efficient and environmentally friendly.

Polymer Coated Sulfur Coated Urea (PCSCU) is exactly what it sounds like; urea coated with sulfur and polymer. PCSCU also has an outer wax layer. PCSCU is essentially the “Cadillac” of coated SRN fertilizers; it is the most expensive to manufacture but provides the longest and most steady nitrogen release properties. XCU® is an example of a PCSCU fertilizer (see diagram to the right).

RELEASE CURVES – HOW SRNS ARE ASSESSED AND COMPARED

Whether referencing “coated” or “reacted” SRNs, slow release nitrogen fertilizers are assed by the rate at which straight urea enters the soil and is ready to be converted for plant use. In the case of “coated” SRNs, this is the point at which urea exits the granule. In the case of “reacted” SRNs, this is the point at which microbes digest or “release” single urea molecules from their chain form. In either case, it’s all about documenting when “straight urea” becomes available for conversion.

Some SRNs have short release curves, meaning their nitrogen is depleted rather quickly (for example: 30-45 days). Other SRNs have long release curves; their nitrogen takes a long time to fully deplete into the soil (for example: 120-180 days). Straight urea has no release curve because it is 100% soluble and immediately available for conversion in the soil.

In the graph to the right, look at the release curves for 3 generic PCU (polymer coated urea)products. The thicker the polymer coating, the straighter the release curve (this is preferred). Notice that the 45-Day PCU has released about 80% of its urea in 45 days. Conversel y, the 120-Day PCU has only released about 38% of its urea in 45 days. SRNs with longer and straighter release curves usually have a thicker polymer coating or multiple polymer/sulfur coatings (with or without wax) and are generally more expensive. Note that over time the curves begin to level off. Some coated urea fertilizers are so effective at repelling water that some of the nitrogen remains trapped in the granule indefinitely. This problem is known as “lock-off.” Also note that thicker coatings will translate into slightly diminished guaranteed analyses for nitrogen content.

For further questions about controlled/slow release nitrogen technology, email info@turfcaresupply.com or call TurfCare™ Supply at (877) 220-1014. For technical questions, contact TurfCare’s Agronomist, Joe Marchinchin at jmarchinchin@tcscusa.com

JARGON ALERT

Leaching – this is a process by which water dissolves fertilizer and carriers the nutrients out of the root zone so that they become permanently unavailable to plants. Too much leaching can lead to contaminated water tables and waterways.
Volatilization – this is a natural process by which nutrients (such as nitrogen) are converted from a solid or liquid form into gaseous form via microbial digestion or chemical conversion. This is a major problem with nitrogen rich fertilizers in the presence of excess water and heat. Any nitrogen that volatizes is lost to the atmosphere and is of no use to plants.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.cdfa.ca.gov/is/ffldrs/pdfs/Ellison_Eric.pdf

http://www.kochturf.com/products/slowrelease/nutralene/

https://extension.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=9131

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/MAINTAIN/winamt.html

Publication: Controlled Release Fertilizers – AgIndustries Research & Consulting

Nitrogen's Role In Lawn Health

Thu, 05 Apr 2018 04:00:00 GMT

THE NECESSITY OF NITROGEN IN SUSTAINING YOUR LAWN CARE PROGRAM! All plants require a certain balance of elements for proper growth and appearance. Among these balanced elements are the primary macronutrients, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) , which are needed in the greatest quantities. Fertilizers generally contain a variety of these elements to maintain a healthy lawn, so that it can successfully ward off weeds, insects and disease. In this article we will explore the primary macronutrient, nitrogen (N). Nitrogen is one of only two elements needed in lawns that directly shows a discernible impact in grass ( iron is the other). Discover why nitrogen is such an important component of a lawn care maintenance program:

WHAT IS NITROGEN?

Nitrogen or “N” is a primary plant nutrient that is a major component of various biological molecules, including amino acids, chlorophyll, co-enzymes, nucleic acids, and proteins. N is absorbed from the soil through the plant's root system. N is crucial for plant growth, but if applied incorrectly, it can be problematic (burning of lawn and/or leaching out of the root zone). When applying nitrogen, the goal is to supply plants with the proper amount and in a timely manner.

NITROGEN BENEFITS LAWNS BY:

Stimulating shoot growth that aids in spring green-up; when applied in spring, nitrogen can help turf recover from environmental stresses and injury caused during the cooler season. Shoot growth is stimulated by nitrogen which in turn stimulates root growth. A modest application of N in the spring, and then timely spreading throughout the growing season will help fortify turf to better withstand the stress of summer.
Aiding in the creation of chlorophyll; chlorophyll is responsible for producing the green pigment in grass and is the compound by which plants use sunlight to produce sugars from carbon dioxide and water. N is known to give plants a deep green color following an application.
Sustaining plant health by manufacturing amino acids; amino acids make up the building blocks of proteins. Proteins allow turf to sustain life in two ways: 1) they act as structural units in the plant cell 2) they are the building blocks of enzymes which make biochemical reactions possible.
Assisting in the production of genetic material; nitrogen is a significant component of nucleic acids (DNA), the genetic material that allows plants to grow and reproduce.

HOW TO TELL IF A LAWN HAS A NITROGEN DEFICIENCY

Nitrogen deficiencies can present themselves in a variety of ways. Here are seven signs to help you identify if your turf is nitrogen deficient:

Turf grass appears pale green because photosynthesis capacity has decreased, therefore interrupting food production.
Plant growth rate begins too slow.
Decreased tolerance from foot traffic as well as normal wear and tear, resulting in slower turf grass recovery.
Thinning and weakening of turf that exposes grass to an increased risk of weed invasion.
Decreased tolerance to environmental stresses like high temperatures, drought, and cool temperatures.
Increased susceptibility to lawn diseases such as dollar spot, red thread, crown rust and more.
Lawn density will decrease, causing runoff water to collect and then slowly disappear.

NOTE: An overabundance of nitrogen will stimulate rapid shoot growth and diminished root growth, resulting in more frequent mowing in addition to depleting carbohydrate reserves, causing turf to be less stress tolerant. Excessive levels of N can result in thinner leaf tissue that loses moisture, creating the need for more water. Excessive N also increases the likelihood of tissue damage from an insect invasion or a microbial pathogen. Last, too much N can also lead to excessive thatch .

BEST TIMES TO APPLY NITROGEN

Timing is key when applying N to turf grass. N should be applied to avoid periods of significant plant loss and to provide proper N when turf needs it most. Good times for nitrogen applications include, early spring, late spring, early summer (before the stresses of high heat and drought hit) and early fall.

It is important to conduct a soil test to determine the proper amount of nitrogen a lawn needs. A soil test will report a suggested nitrogen application program based on the results.

Overall, the best method to make nitrogen available for plant uptake is by applying it regularly throughout the season with an effective lawn care routine . This includes proper fertilization , proper soil amendments management, proper mowing and watering , as well as proper aeration and thatch management .

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://blog-yard-garden-news.extension.umn.edu/2011/03/the-good-bad-and-interesting-roles-of.html

http://www.cropnutrition.com/efu-nitrogen

https://forestry.usu.edu/files-ou/HGH04.pdf

https://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/pdf/hgic1201.pdf

https://www.sportsfieldmanagementmagazine.com/columns/turf-health/nitrogen/

http://gsrpdf.lib.msu.edu/ticpdf.py?file=/article/meentemeyer-whitlark-turfgrass-5-6-16.pdf

JOE KNOWS! Biosolids

Mon, 02 Apr 2018 04:00:00 GMT

WHAT ARE BIOSOLIDS?

Biosolids are nutrient-rich organic residues left over from the treatment of animal waste, most commonly harvested from sewage sludge at waste water treatment plants. Much in the way manure is applied to farmland, biosolids are an environmentally friendly solution to the disposal of human and animal waste products. When properly treated and processed, biosolids can enhance the fertility of soils and encourage plant growth.

WHAT FORMS DO BIOSOLIDS COME IN?

Biosolids come in a variety of forms, varying in size, shape, color, odor, and handling. In terms of odor (foremost on most minds), while some biosolids exhibit that classic sulfurous odor, many biosolids have no foul odor at all. Those biosolids, when completely processed, resemble the look and feel of potting soil. Other biosolids come in pelletized or powder form so that they can easily be mixed or coated with/onto fertilizer granules.

BIOSOLID CLASSIFICATION

Biosolids are divided into 3 classes: Class B, Class A, and Class A-EQ (exception quality). Class A Biosolids are held to a much higher standard; they are generally cleaner appearing, more processed, and have little to no odor. Class A vs. Class B biosolids differ in 1.) the way treated sludge is processed and stabilized, 2.) the physical characteristics of the biosolid end products, and 3.) the markets for which each end product is permitted to be sold (without application restrictions). In general, Class B biosolids are limited to agricultural use, disposal in a landfill, or incineration. Unlike most Class B biosolids, Class A biosolids may be used by citrus growers, nurseries, and sod farms, but are more commonly used by golf courses, landscapers, and homeowners on residential turf.

QUALITY CONTROL (ODOR, PATHOGENS, ETC.)

Regardless of their various fates, biosolids are held to certain standards before being released into environment. Because biosolids pose multiple environmental hazards prior to treatment, all biosolids (regardless of class) are purified and monitored for heavy metal and pathogen content. Class B biosolids are restricted to only agricultural and landfill disposal. Because of this, EPA and state regulatory agencies require local waste water treatment plants to take appropriate steps to monitor heavy metal content and significantly reduce levels of key pathogens.

Conversely, because Class A biosolids have unrestricted use (in terms of where they can be used, NOT in terms of application rate), EPA and state regulatory agencies are much stricter regarding quality control. Class A biosolids must meet fecal coliform and salmonella pathogen standards and have regulated time/temp and pH/temp monitoring. With Class A-EQ biosolids, extremely low heavy metal limits are imposed (general Class A standards must also still be met). State and local regulatory departments may also have certain odor and handling standards which must be achieved before these products may be marketed, sold, or disposed of.

HOW BIOSOLIDS ENHANCE TURF AND OTHER PLANTS?

Biosolids are generally an environmental friendly source of N-P-K nutrients (when applied at the recommended application rate), allowing the user to apply less synthetic N-P-K fertilizer to the soil. Biosolids are a safe, excellent source of organic material which can be used to enhance soil structure and increase a soil’s water holding capacity. Biosolids have been proven to increase macro and micronutrient uptake in plants, as well as amend low-fertility soils. Biosolids contain significantly fewer pathogens than straight animal manure so they are generally a healthier organic fertilizer choice for turf, ornamentals, and vegetable gardens. '

  NUTRIENT CLAIMS

From an analysis standpoint, biosolids are relatively low in nutrients compared to synthetic fertilizers, however much of the benefit to plants comes from the infusion of organic material into soils, not just N-P-K counts. Organic matter (partially biodegraded cellular material) can chelate micronutrients in the soil and increase the soil’s water holding capacity. Some biosolids also contain trace micronutrients such as iron, magnesium and manganese. A typical biosolid analysis looks something like this:

5-3-1
4-2-0
3-2-1

APPLICATION RESTRICTIONS (FEDERAL, STATE, AND LOCAL)

Each state and municipality has its own rules and restrictions regarding the application of biosolids on different land types (farmland vs. residential lawn, etc.). Many states also restrict the amount of phosphorus that can be applied due to the risk of waterway contamination (leading to toxic algal blooms). Before purchasing pelletized biosolids or fertilizers mixed with biosolids, check with federal, state and local authorities to ensure that biosolids are permitted for use in your area. When applying, make sure to follow the instructions on the label. Ensure you do not exceed application rate restrictions.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.epa.gov/biosolids

www.oracwa.org/documents/MikeMiller-MovingtoaClassABiosolidsProgram.pdf

https://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyPDF.cgi/200046QX.PDF?Dockey=200046QX.PDF

https://www3.epa.gov/npdes/pubs/land_application.pdf

https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/pnw508_0.pdf

Phosphorus' Role in Lawn Health

Sun, 18 Mar 2018 04:00:00 GMT

THE NECESSITY OF PHOSPHORUS IN SUSTAINING YOUR LAWN'S HEALTH! Healthy lawns depend on a well-balanced fertilizer program that provides the essential elements it needs like: Nitrogen (N) , Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) . A healthy lawn is necessary to successfully ward off weeds, insects and disease. Although most fertilizers contain a variety of elements, in this article we are going to focus on just phosphorus (P)! Phosphorus is a macronutrient (just like nitrogen and potassium), and when needed, is required in larger quantities because it is normally bio-unavailable in the soil. Phosphorus, which is found in every living plant cell is vital in seed germination, establishing root growth and plant development. Without phosphorus, grass would appear stunted, especially in early stages of growth. Discover why phosphorus’ role in turf and soil is important to the overall health of a lawn:

WHAT IS PHOSPHORUS?

Phosphorus or “P” is a primary plant nutrient that is involved in the metabolic processes responsible for transferring energy throughout the plant. It is crucial to introduce phosphorus when first establishing turf grass and remains important as the grass continues to grow. The presences of phosphorus in soil helps turf grow lush and thick because it promotes strong root growth. An abundance of phosphorus allows plants to grow more efficiently.

PHOSPHORUS BENEFITS YOUR LAWN BY:

Enhancing Plant Energy Reactions; phosphorus plays a vital role in the energy transfer of plants. Phosphorus is responsible for the source of energy that drives many chemical reactions within plants: ADP (adenosine diphosphate) and ATP (Adenosine triphosphate), setting the stage for many chemical processes essential to plant health to occur.
Assisting in the Transfer of Genetic Material from One Generation to the Next; this primary nutrient is a vital component to the building blocks of DNA. The building blocks of genes and chromosomes that are transferred from one generation to the next, essentially provide the “blueprint” for plant growth and development.
Optimizing the Transfer of Sugars and Starches within Plants; the most important chemical reaction for plants is photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is the reaction that utilizes the sunlight’s energy to convert carbon dioxide and water, in the presence of chlorophyll, into simple sugars and future energy sources. The sugars are used as future building blocks for the cell structure and storage components. Energy is then stored in the form of Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP), rendering it available as an energy source for other reactions in the plant.

HOW TO TELL IF A LAWN HAS A PHOSPHORUS DEFICIENCY

Phosphorus deficiencies can be difficult to identify because they often mimic other nutrient deficiencies or pest invasions. It’s advised to do a soil test to determine deficiencies prior to applying phosphorus. For example, low “P” in soil can take on the signs of nitrogen deficiency in new growth, appearing yellow and weak. An inadequate amounts of phosphorus in the soil can also represent itself as reduced leaf expansion and surface area, in addition to limited numbers of blades. Both shoot and root growth could also look stunted, leading to less root mass to uptake nutrients and water. Phosphorus deficiencies can result as a buildup of carbohydrates through photosynthesis, resulting in foliar deficiency (this can be seen as an abnormal dark green leaf color). Sugars can accumulate as well, causing anthocyanin pigments (a reddish–purple color) to appear.

NOTE: Carbohydrate buildup and anthocyanin pigments will usually occur at extremely low phosphorus levels in soil. Be careful to check for insect damage as well; pest invasion damage can resemble the look of anthocyanin pigments.

PHOSPHORUS REGULATIONS ON TURF – SOIL TESTING IS KEY FOR APPLYING THIS NUTRIENT

Phosphorus is tightly regulated because this nutrient has been known to cause the degradation of surface water quality. Fortunately, most soil already contains enough phosphorus to sustain root development and growth of established turf. Regulations have been established to allow lawns to have the nutrients they need, when needed (example: early turf development), while keeping the waterways clean. Each state has different phosphorus regulations, so fertilizers should be selected carefully based on turf’s needs and state regulations. Talk with your country extension office for more information about phosphorus regulations in your state. Also, conduct a soil test to determine if phosphorus is lacking within you soil and at what rates it should be applied. If you’re starting a new lawn, plants will benefit from a starter fertilizer that contains phosphorus to help develop healthy root systems, stimulate growth, and assist with energy reactions throughout the plant.

BEST TIMES TO APPLY PHOSPHORUS

Establishing new turf (Starter fertilizer).
Curing a lack of phosphorus necessary for plant root development and growth (determined by a soil test).
Repairing turf – reseeding or sodding damaged areas of the lawn (Starter fertilizer applied to those areas).

PROtip: Overall, the best method to make phosphorus in soil available for plant uptake is by adopting a regular lawn care routine . This includes proper fertilization , proper soil amendments management , proper mowing and watering , as well as proper aeration and thatch management .

Phosphorus is associated with healthy root development and growth, but plants use it for many other processes. Phosphorus is vital, especially when starting a new lawn, repairing a lawn or curing a lack of phosphorus in the soil as well as sustaining the health of established turf and plants all year round.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/phosphorus-plant-growth.htm

https://www.bhg.com/gardening/yard/garden-care/what-do-nitrogen-phosphorus-and-potassium-do/

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/AY/AY-334-W.pdf

https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/lawns/fertilizing-lawns/

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/phosphates-make-grass-grow-faster-efficiently-37265.html

https://www.ipni.net/ppiweb/bcrops.nsf/$webindex/ECBABED567ABDCDD852568EF0063C9F4/$file/99-1p06.pdf

https://passel.unl.edu/pages/informationmodule.php?idinformationmodule=1130447043&topicorder=2

https://www.cga.ct.gov/2012/rpt/2012-R-0076.htm

NEW PRODUCT ALERT: TCS AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate

Tue, 13 Mar 2018 04:00:00 GMT

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog . For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

IT’S FINALLY HERE! LEARN WHY EVERYONE IS “AMP’D UP” FOR THE ARRIVAL OF TCS AMP-XC™ LIQUID CONCENTRATE!

Turf Care Supply Corp. is excited to announce the release of the highly anticipated TCS AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate. TCS AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate [‘AMP-XC™ (L)’] would not have been developed without the insightful feedback of its valued users. Since AMP-XC™ technology on Hi-Calcium Lime, Gypsum and granular fertilizer proved such excellent results and received continued rave reviews a liquid concentrated formula was requested and produced. Now in a liquid concentrate, the AMP-XC™ technology is completely versatile, allowing you to tank mix it with almost anything! AMP-XC™ (L) can be tank mixed with most fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, or applied alone to “AMP Up” the health of your turf or ornamentals; also works great on seed (See Graph s8) !

AMP-XC™ Technology: Consists of Primary and Secondary Metabolites and Protein Hydrolysates.

PRIMARY & SECONDARY METABOLITES

Primary Metabolites are a broad class of organic compounds that are essential for normal plant growth and development. From respiration and cell division to energy production and reproduction, primary metabolites drive the biochemistry of all living things. Secondary Metabolites are organic compounds that help plants cope with many biotic and abiotic stresses. These compounds increase an organism’s survivability by boosting disease resistance and discouraging herbivory (insect damage).

PROTEIN HYDROLYSATES

Protein Hydrolysates are chains of essential amino acids. Plants can metabolize protein hydrolysates to build new proteins. In turn, these proteins play a vital role in plant growth and development. Proteins are essential macromolecules that catalyze numerous biological processes. The amino acids that comprise protein hydrolysates are required at every stage of plant growth and development (ex: photosynthesis, respiration, nutrition acquisition/utilization, stress-tolerance mechanisms, etc.). Lush, green turf comes from foliar tissue packed with chlorophyll, pigmented molecules that allow the plant to convert sunlight into useful energy. Without an abundance of amino acids to build chlorophyll molecules, plants suffer from a condition called chlorosis, most commonly visualized by the yellowing of turf blades (See Graph s5) .

Turf[TECH]Report - Pre-Emergent Herbicides: The Key to Controlling Weeds Before They Start

Sat, 03 Mar 2018 05:00:00 GMT

Spring has finally arrived! Flowers have already started to emerge, and it won’t be long before the leaves really start to fill in the trees. Naturally, with warmer temperatures comes the sound of the lawn mower — the growing season has begun! Unfortunately, grass isn’t the only thing that grows in your yard. Scattered across the soil in and below the thatch layer are countless seeds that secretly landed in your yard last fall, and they’ve been waiting all winter for this opportunity. Fortunately, there is a solution to this problem; one that kills the weeds from the onset but leaves your lawn unharmed: pre-emergent herbicides.

WHAT IS A PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDE AND HOW DOES IT WORK?

Pre-emergent herbicides are designed to target newly germinating weeds before they become problematic. Pre-emergent herbicides vary slightly by chemistry and specific mode-of-action, but in general, they are designed to stop newly germinating seeds from rooting in the soil. Most pre-emergents work to disrupt root systems from developing. When roots are unable to locate water and nutrition, newly germinated seeds desiccate and starve once the endosperm (nutrition source inside the seed coat) has been depleted.

Specifically, many pre-emergent herbicides are members of the Dinitroaniline family of herbicides. These herbicides function as microtubule assembly inhibitors. Dinitroanilines are water-insoluble and do not work with foliar applications; they must be integrated into the soil. One of the more popular members of this family, Prodiamine has low volatility and relatively quick half-life in the soil (the time it takes for this molecule to break down in the environment).

WHEN SHOULD PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDES BE APPLIED?

The vast majority of pre-emergent herbicides are applied in early-mid spring (depending on latitude), right before grasses begin aggressive growth. This strategy is employed to ensure that adequate chemistry is present in the ground right before most weeds begin germinating. The later a pre-emergent is applied in the growing season, the less effective it will be against controlling a large number of weeds. Most pre-emergent herbicides have no effect on weeds that have established a root network, even if the weeds are still relatively small. The map below shows roughly when to consider applying spring pre-emergent herbicides to your lawn.

Many perennial weeds also release seeds in mid-late summer in the hopes that the seeds might germinate and root before the arrival of winter. Additionally, while pre-emergent herbicides may be successful at preventing weeds from growing in your own yard (and producing more seeds…), many seeds are transported into your yard by the wind. For these reasons, a late summer/early fall pre-emergent application should also be considered. Many landscape professionals use a pre-emergent herbicide coated onto a high-nitrogen fertilizer to avoid having to make two separate fall applications (in essence, a fall weed & feed).

WHAT CAN PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDES BE USED ON? Most pre-emergent herbicides are effective against many grasses (monocots) and broadleaf weeds (dicots). Considered to be a one of the most obnoxious lawn invaders, many pre-emergents also control crabgrass, however some products require multiple applications for effective control. If you have a crabgrass infestation, be sure to read the label carefully before purchasing to ensure the product will be effective.

LIST OF THE MOST COMMON WEEDS CONTROLLED BY MOST PRE-EMERGENTS.

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua)
Barnyard grass
Carpetweed-04
Chickweed (common)
Chickweed (mousear)
Crabgrass (large and smooth)
Crowfoot grass
Cup grass (woolly)
Foxtails (annual),
Goosegrass
Henbit
Itchgrass
Johnsongrass (seedling)
Jungle rice
Knotweed
Kochia
Lambs quarters (common)
Lovegrass, Panicum (browntop, fall and Texas)
Pigweed
Purslane (common)
Pusley (Florida)
Rescue grass
Shepherd spurse
Signal grass (Broadleaf)
Speedwell (Persian)
Sprangle top
Spurge (prostate)
Witchgrass
Wood sorrel (yellow, from seed)

WHAT GRASSES ARE SAFE TO USE WITH MOST PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDES?

Bermuda grass
Bahia grass
Centipede grass
Kikuyu grass
Seashore Paspalum
St. Augustine grass
Tall Fescue (including turf-type)
Fine Fescue
Zoysia grass
Buffalo grass
Kentucky Bluegrass
Perennial Ryegrass
Creeping Bentgrass (0.5 inches or more in height)

NOTE: If in doubt on your grass species, refer to the Turf Grass Climate Regions Info Graph and consult with your local lawn care expert to determine the best pre-emergent product to use on your turf grass.

WHAT SHOULD A PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDE NEVER BE USED ON?

Pre-emergent herbicides should NEVER be used on or around newly seeded grass, newly applied sod, or any plants being grown from seed (such as herbs, vegetables, and wild flowers). If you want to grow anything that is being started from seed, don’t use pre-emergent herbicides on or near those plants.

WHAT ARE EXAMPLES OF PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDES AVAILABLE AT TURF CARE?

TurfCare™ Supply has a wide variety of pre-emergent control products. These herbicides can be coated onto fertilizer, soil amendments, or carriers. Such examples include:

Barricade
Dimension
Echelon 4SC
Evade 4FL
Oxadiazon
Pendimethalin
Pre-M
Prodiamine
Ronstar
Spectile
Stonewall

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/weeds/pre-emergent-herbicides.htm

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/resources/crabgrass-control-in-home-lawns

Winter Advisory! How Winterkill Affects Cool & Warm Season Turf

Mon, 05 Feb 2018 05:00:00 GMT

Predicting winterkill is a difficult task because there are a variety of ways it can cause damage to turf grass. No matter the region, winterkill has the ability to attack both cool and warm season grass! Although winterkill can affect both cool and warm season grasses, damage may not be the same. Throughout this article, turf managers will learn what to expect if winterkill happens in regions where as well as what they can do to help cultivate turf that can sustain the harsh conditions of cooler weather.

WHAT IS WINTERKILL?

Winterkill is an all-inclusive term that is used to describe the various causes of turf loss over the cool winter months. Winterkill can happen due to a combination of factors including: low temperature kill, ice sheets, desiccation, crown hydration, and snow mold.

HOW TO AVOID WINTERKILL ON COOL SEASON GRASSES

Identifying the ground conditions that make cool season turf more susceptible to winterkill can greatly assist in prevention. Ground conditions that are more likely to lead to winterkill are identified here and should be managed, monitored and maintained throughout the lawn care season:

Areas that receive heavy traffic throughout winter
Close mowed turf
Exposed areas prone to desiccation
Grass species known to be more susceptible to snow mold (i.e. annual bluegrass and creeping bentgrass)
Immature seedlings that weren’t fully established in late fall (annual ryegrass, perennial ryegrass and tall fescue are especially susceptible)
Low spots with poor drainage
Shaded turf grass
Turf covered with ice sheets for 45 days or longer
Turf grass with an inadequate lawn care routine – malnourished, unbalanced pH, poorly mowed and under watered

WINTERKILL ON WARM SEASON GRASSES

Although warm season grasses are typically less exposed to extreme winter temperatures, they can still fall victim to the effects of winterkill. There are many factors that contribute to winterkill on warm season grasses, some of which are beyond our control (exp. weather conditions). Others can be avoided with proper turf management techniques. Some of the most common ways warm season turf grasses sustain winterkill injury are:

Low Temperature Spikes
Unseasonably warm temperatures followed by quick freezing temperatures (freeze/thaw cycle) in late winter-early spring.
Sustained low temperatures
Disease like snow mold or spring dead spot
Turf grass with an inadequate lawn care routine – malnourished, unbalanced pH, poorly mowed and under watered

HOW TO AVOID WINTERKILL ON WARM SEASON GRASSES

Just as with cool season turf, identifying the ground conditions that make warm season turf more susceptible to winterkill can greatly assist in prevention. Ground conditions that are more likely to lead to winterkill are identified here and should be managed, monitored and maintained throughout the lawn care season:

North facing slopes
Poorly drained areas
Heavily thatched turf
Heavily shaded areas
Areas planted with poorly adapted cultivars or turf grass species
Areas with deficient levels of Potassium(K)
Areas that receive heavy traffic throughout winter
Areas lacking snow cover to insulate soil during low temperatures

PRO TIP: It’s not uncommon for older cultivars (a plant variety selected for a certain area) of Bermuda grass to be more susceptible to winterkill.

WINTERKILL PREVENTION FOR BOTH COOL AND WARM SEASON GRASS SPECIES

Whether you have warm season or cool season grass, foreseeing winterkill damage due to environmental changes is unpredictable prior to entering the winter months. Fortunately, there are still preventative actions you can take. To prevent winterkill you need to maintain a healthy, dense turf with a strong root system. This can be achieved with a regular lawn care routine including the application of fertilizers and soil amendments, proper mowing, and adequate watering. Additionally, aeration and thatch management will help. It is also beneficial to take the necessary steps to “winterize” your turf so that it can survive harsh winter conditions and get a healthy start in spring.

References:

https://www.sportsfieldmanagementmagazine.com/columns/turf-health/protect-turfgrass-winter-damage/

https://www.sportsfieldmanagementmagazine.com/maintenance/winter-weather-forecasting-field-management/

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/cool-season

http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2014/03/cool-season-turf-winterkill-potential.html

https://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/hot_topics/2016/pdf/09%20preparing_managing_warm_season_grasses_during_the_offseason%202%20col.pdf

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/resources/winterkill-of-turfgrass

http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2014/03/warm-season-turf-winterkill-2014-what.html

https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/lawns/snow-molds-in-lawns/

http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1012

http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2014/03/warm-season-turf-winterkill-2014-what.html

http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1012

Turf Grass Climate Regions

Fri, 02 Feb 2018 05:00:00 GMT

When talking turf, a person may hear the phrase, “cool season” or “warm season” grasses. However, this phrase does not actually refer to the season of growth but it describes the region where each species grows best. Both warm and cool season grass species experience the same growing seasons (spring, summer, fall and winter), but the regions overall climate and temperature throughout the year play a huge role in determining which grass species survives most successfully in each area.

Before determining a turf care program, a person must understand their climate region, the turf grass species they want to treat and the best practice for treatment. Gaining an understanding of these factors can help create a turf care program that will ensure a healthy, beautiful lawn year-round.

Please refer to the “Turf Grass Climate Region” info graphic for helpful details. Click image to enlarge:

FERTILIZING TIPS: Wait 5-7 weeks between fertilizer & control product applications to avoid burning your lawn.
Sweep any product that lands in the driveway, sidewalk, or street back into the lawn.
Water in products after application to activate and reduce product loss due to volatilization.
Review all active ingredients on product label to determine if the blend is appropriate for your specific lawn type.

Check with your local distributor for more information on grass type and proper product chemistries to use for your area.

For advice on products best suited for your region, check out these TurfCare™ recommended Regional Lawn Care Programs.

Visit TurfCareSupply.com/blog for more information on building a turf care routine. Check out these important articles to get you started:

The Turf[TECH]Report - Prodiamine: Widely Used & Effective Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Tackling Weeds in The Fall

The Turf[TECH]Report - What's the Buzz on Insecticides?

The Turf[TECH]Report - Getting the Dirt on Soil Amendments

The Turf[TECH]Report - Understanding Herbicides

Why Winterize Your Lawn

Should I Aerate?

Get the Dirt On Thatch

Want to Give Your Lawn a Summer Treatment? Lime It!

References:

https://www.domyown.com/lawn-care-schedule-a-537.html

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/cool-season-turfgrasses-id

http://www.learn2grow.com/gardeningguides/lawns/typesgrasses/WarmSeasonGrasses.aspx

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Gardens/faqs/turfgrassfaq2.html

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/temperatures-grass-seed-germination-61409.html

http://www.ntep.org

http://www.landscape-america.com/grasses/transitional.html

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/when-to-dethatch-a-lawn

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/warm-season-vs-cool-season-grasses

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/lawn-care/lgen/what-is-cool-grass.htm

https://www.naturesfinestseed.com/cool-season-vs-warm-season-grasses-explained

https://www.thespruce.com/what-types-of-lawn-grasses-are-there-2130979

https://www.pnfertilizers.com/whats-the-difference-between-warm-cool-season-grasses/

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/effects-ground-temperature-grass-69755.html

http://lawngrasses.com/info/climate-map.html#.WnIyha2ZP64

The TURF[TECH]REPORT – Iron’s Function in Plant Health

Fri, 02 Feb 2018 05:00:00 GMT

Iron is one of the most recognizable micronutrients in plant science. Although needed in small quantities, its impact on plant health is profound. Iron is a key component of various enzymes involved in the synthesis of chlorophyll (dark green pigmented molecules that drive photosynthesis in plants). Iron transports oxygen, as well as carries electrons throughout the plant. When turf grass is suffering from an iron deficiency, its physical appearance is negatively impacted. Turf grass that exhibits a rich, deep green color can only be achieved when iron is abundant in the soil. Interestingly, iron comes in many forms. In this article, we’ll discuss the various forms of iron available in the market so that you can choose which form is best for your turf.

IRON UPTAKE IN PLANTS

Iron uptake typically occurs under the soil surface at the root tips. Iron is transported in the form of various organic complexes or chemical compounds, but rarely in its pure atomic form. The common forms of iron that plants uptake are the oxidized states, Fe2+ (ferrous form - soluble) and Fe3+ (ferric form –insoluble). Uptake occurs in various ways, including a chelation mechanism whereby plants release siderophores (molecules that bind and transport iron which enhance iron’s solubility.) Iron is most efficiently taken up by new roots or root hairs, so it is important to maintain a healthy and active root system for optimal plant health.

IRON CHELATE (can be a foliar spray)

This is a form of iron that can easily be absorbed by turf, resulting in a quick response when applied to soil. Chelated iron is responsible for the quick green up observed within a few days after application. Since most plants already produce small amounts of chelates, this additional application will allow the plant to obtain iron more efficiently, especially in soils that are experiencing less than optimal pH levels. Iron chelates protect iron from converting into a less available form. There are three forms of chelated iron:

DTPA iron: Largest molecules of the iron chelates. Stable up to a pH of 7.0, can bond with multiple metals and other compounds to help transport iron into the plant easier.
EDDHA iron: Mid-range molecule size of the iron chelates. Most stable of the iron chelates; most resistant to converting into a less available form of iron at almost every pH range.
EDTA iron: Smallest molecules of the iron chelates. Stable up to a pH of 6.5; can bond with multiple metals and other compounds to help iron transport into the plant easier. Will more readily release its iron atom once transported to its destination within the plant.

NATURAL ORGANICS

Natural organics such as biosolids, iron humate and compost contain small amounts of iron. Iron found in natural organic compounds tends to be more available to the plant since it is naturally present in the organic substrate. Larger amounts of organics need to be used due to these compounds typically containing small amounts of iron. Staining still may occur on concreted, but less likely compared to sulfates, sucrates and oxides.

OPTIMAL IRON LEVELS IN SOIL

35-100ppm

Note: mg/kg is equivalent to parts per million (ppm)

IRON IN SOIL – FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE IRON AVAILABILITY

According to the Nutri-Facts facts article, “It’s not Surprising–Iron Is Required by Plants,” most soils contain thousands of pounds of iron but much of it is not readily available for plant uptake; this is why iron deficiencies in turf are so common. As mentioned previously, iron aids in the synthesis of chlorophyll, so it’s no surprise that plants deficient in iron suffer from a condition called “chlorosis.” Chlorosis is commonly diagnosed by a pale green color, yellowing sheathes, sharp distinction between its interveinal issues and its leaf veins. Often these symptom first appear when younger leaves begin to yellow. Severe iron deficiency symptoms can manifest by turning the entire plant white. There are several different soil factors that can influence and lead to iron deficiencies, such as:

SOIL pH IMBALANCES Iron becomes readily available in a soil where pH is 6.0. Liming acidic soils is a necessity in order to optimize turf health but an overload of applications can cause iron deficiencies.

LOW LEVELS OF ORGANIC MATTER

Many plants are unable to take up nutrients from the soil without the assistance of organic compounds produced by beneficial microbes. These small living organisms consume organic matter (dead plant residues) and through digestion, turn this matter into nutrients a plant can absorb, thus fostering the kind of environment that promotes plant growth and health. Low levels of beneficial soil microbes may indirectly lead to low levels of available iron for plant consumption.

NUTRIENT IMBALANCE

The proper distribution of primary (N, P, K), secondary nutrients (Ca, Mg, S) and micronutrients (Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B, Mo, Cl, N) in the soil (and ultimately in the plant) is fundamental in order to fully reap the benefits of proper turf management practices ( fertilizer , control products and soil amendment applications). A balance between all these nutrients is essential in order to maintain a soil conducive to optimal turf health. For example, excessive phosphorous (P) levels can trigger iron deficiencies. Focusing on feeding the soil can enhance plant/lawn health and nutrient uptake.

Iron deficiencies in turf are sometimes difficult to pin-point because multiple factors (including but not limited to other nutrient deficiencies or imbalances) can overshadow them. The absence of iron may also be mistaken for pest infestations, disease or herbicide damage. If chlorosis-like symptoms occur, test the soil to establish existing soil fertility, pH, and composition.

MANAGING IRON DEFICIENCIES

Iron deficiencies can be managed with a short-term application of an iron-based foliar spray or with nitrogen fertilizers, although the best mode of action is prevention. New roots and root hairs become active during the iron uptake process. When outside factors interfere with root development (such as poorly balanced soils or imbalanced nutrients), iron uptake is disrupted. Identifying the true cause of an iron deficiency with a soil test can create a better understanding of why iron is depleted in turf while preventing the problem from occurring again. Focusing on (1) feeding the soil and (2) maintaining a healthy and active root system are paramount in helping to keep turf free from any potential iron deficiencies.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Resources:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/iron-for-plants.htm

http://www.agrsci.jp/ras/article/view/12/26

http://www.fritind.com/nutri_facts.html

http://www.fritind.com/pdf/IRON_nutri.PDF

http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1019&context=cafes_dean

https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-fertilization-a-basic-guide-for-professional-turfgrass-managers

https://www.incitecpivotfertilisers.com.au/en/Agronomy/~/media/Files/IPF%20Migration/FertFacts/IronFS/IronFSV3IIPLGK14042010.ashx

http://plantprobs.net/plant/nutrientImbalances/iron.html

https://blog.brightagrotech.com/iron-in-aquaponics/

http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1019&context=cafes_dean

http://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/iron

http://slideplayer.com/slide/5924362/

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/SS/SS55500.pdf

https://www.solverchem.com/articles/chemical-fertilizers/how-to-make-edta-chelated-iron-fertilizers/details

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/system/e/2/0/1/e201c02bedabf7de30e2e6e48ce99d0e/pub2895ironingyourturfgrasslowres.pdf

Understanding Lawn Care Product Labels

Tue, 23 Jan 2018 05:00:00 GMT

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Winter Advisory! Understanding Turf Grass Winterkill

Wed, 20 Dec 2017 05:00:00 GMT

A major concern for green industry professionals is damage or loss of turf grass due to colder winter weather. As the temperature outside drops, you may be worried about your turf experiencing harm from these harsher seasonal conditions like winterkill. What’s amazing about turf grass is that it naturally tries to prepare and adapt to winter to prevent damage or death. This preparation for cool weather is called cold acclimation. This term refers to turf grasses' ability to make changes to help it tolerate lower temperatures and prevent ice accumulation in plant cells (ice accumulation can result in cells rupturing which injures the plant). During the cold acclimation process of turf grass, it accumulates certain sugars and proteins to create a cell wall that becomes more fluid and allows for plant cells to dehydrate in order to become hardier over winter. Colder winter weather brings challenges for both cool season and warm season turf grass. Although both species have the ability to prepare themselves for winter, there are still multiple factors that may arise that can cause damage or even death to turf.

WHAT IS WINTERKILL?

Winterkill is an all-inclusive term that is used to describe the various causes of turf loss over the cool winter months. Winterkill can happen due to a combination of factors including low-temperature kill, ice sheets, desiccation, crown hydration, and disease.

LOW-TEMPERATURE KILL

Extreme cold can produce the winterkill problem known as the low-temperature kill. Low-temperature kill can happen on two different levels; on the surface and below the surface. Low temperature kill above the surface is caused by ice crystal formation on plant cells at temperatures below 32˚F. The ice accumulation can result in plant cells rupturing which ultimately can cause injury and even death to the plant. Above the surface, low-temperature kill is more likely to happen prior to below surface low-temperature kill. Soil temperatures fluctuate less than air temperatures, insulating the crown (the growing point) of the plant and its roots from winter temperatures. Unfortunately, soil temperature can still drop to a point where damage is done below the surface parts of the plant.

Another issue that can lead to low-temperature kill and interfere with turf grass winter survival is the freeze/thaw cycle. When freezing and thawing happens rapidly throughout the winter months, damage can increase because there is more stress to the plant.

ICE SHEETS

Ice sheets or ice accumulation on turf grass can result in plant death if left on turf for a sustained period of time. Different turf grass species have different hardiness to ice sheet build up, for example, annual bluegrass experiences damage between 45-90 days of ice accumulation while creeping bentgrass can withstand ice until 90-120 days before plant death occurs. Ice sheets cause death because it prevents gas exchange, increasing carbon dioxide to toxic levels.

DESICCATION

Desiccation, also known as winter drought, is the term used to describe turf grass death due to drying out over the course of winter when the grass is dormant or semi-dormant. Desiccation is more likely to appear in areas where soil was dry prior to entering winter or where there has been little snow precipitation or cover throughout the cool winter months.

NOTE: In regions where drought occurs regularly throughout the season, desiccation is more likely to be prominent (i.e. the Dakotas, Kansas, Nebraska and others).

CROWN HYDRATION

Crown hydration injury occurs during the warmer days of winter when temperatures increase enough that turf grass awakes from dormancy and begins to take up water again. Damage happens when a day or two of warm daytime temperatures arrive, followed by the continuation of freezing temperatures. Damage or death to turf happens because of ice crystallization forming within the plant, causing stress and rupturing to the plant's cells. Crown hydration commonly takes place during late winter/early spring when snow or rain occurs and then freezing temperatures return but the melted snow or rain has not fully drained away.

PRO TIP: Cool season grasses are especially susceptible to crown hydration injury since they’re more likely to awake from winter dormancy at the first break of warmer temperatures.

DISEASE

The most common two diseases caused from winterkill is snow mold ; gray and pink snow mold. Areas of turf grass that appear to be “glued” together, pale yellow in color and have a straw-like quality may be affected by snow mold. Although snow mold doesn’t occur every year, it is not uncommon to find it in turf grass in years when early and deep snow prevented the ground from freezing. The fungal growth from snow mold can cause winterkill injury, causing grass to take a little longer to green up.

Spring dead spot (SDS) is another common winter kill fungal disease in the warm season species, bermudagrass (although less common, spring dead spot can be found in zoysiagrass). This disease can be identified by its well-defined circular patches of bleached out, dead turf. This disease can become evident when turf begins to green-up in spring. This is a destructive, persistent disease that happens when turf is exposed to freezing temperatures for extended periods of time. The fungi of SDS are active in fall and spring when conditions are cool and moist. The fungi don’t actually kill turf directly but instead weakens the turf by feeding on grass roots, rhizomes, and stolons, making it more susceptible to winterkill injury. SDS fungi can infect turf anywhere from temperatures above 50° F to below 70°F.

Spring Dead Spot Fungal Disease

RECOVERING FROM MODERATE - SEVERE WINTERKILL Unfortunately, winterkill damage cannot be fully assessed until turf grass goes through its spring green-up and warmer weather returns. If spring arrives and you notice some damage from winterkill, sodding or seeding may be necessary to help with turf grass recovery. Prior to seeding it is crucial to understand your region and which grasses will thrive.

*IMPORTANT* NEVER USE A PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDE WHILE SEEDING/SODDING. PRE-EMERGENT HERBICIDES WILL KILL GERMINATING GRASS SEEDS.

Predicting winterkill is not something you can always forecast since a variety of winterkill damage is caused by seasonal factors out of our control. By choosing a thriving and adaptable turf grass species and maintaining good turf care practices, turf grass can avoid winterkill and defend itself against the cool, harsher winter weather.

Winterkill prevention on turf can be helped with a healthy, dense turf and a strong root system with a regular lawn care routine including fertilization, soil amendments, proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices. It is also extremely helpful to take the necessary steps to “winterizer” your lawn for a hardier winter lawn and a quick spring green-up".

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.sportsfieldmanagementmagazine.com/columns/turf-health/protect-turfgrass-winter-damage/

https://www.sportsfieldmanagementmagazine.com/maintenance/winter-weather-forecasting-field-management/

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/cool-season

http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2014/03/cool-season-turf-winterkill-potential.html

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/resources/winterkill-of-turfgrass

http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2014/03/warm-season-turf-winterkill-2014-what.html

https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/lawns/snow-molds-in-lawns/

http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1012

https://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/hot_topics/2016/pdf/09%20preparing_managing_warm_season_grasses_during_the_offseason%202%20col.pdf

Photos:

http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1012

JOE KNOWS! Sulfur's Role in Turf & Soil Health

Wed, 20 Dec 2017 05:00:00 GMT

WHY SULFUR'S PRESENCE IN SOIL IS CRUCIAL TO A SUSTAINABLE TURF

Often thought of as the 4th “primary” or “macronutrient,” sulfur plays an essential role in maintaining healthy turf. Two of the twenty amino acids made by plants (methionine and cysteine) contain sulfur, as do countless proteins that catalyze reactions inside plant cells. Sulfur is also a component of many vitamins that helps the plant defend itself against various abiotic stresses. Without sulfur, plant life (and all life), would not be possible.

SULFUR’S ROLE IN SOIL

Sulfur serves as an important soil conditioner. Normally mobile in saturated soils, sulfur helps to reduce sodium uptake in plants. Much like the nitrogen cycle, sulfur follows a similar pathway. Sulfur is only available for plant uptake in its inorganic form, SO4-2 (sulfate sulfur). Accordingly, much as nitrogen fertilizers are subject to volatilization, sulfur can also volatize in the form of H2S (hydrogen sulfide.) Ammonium sulfate [(NH4)2SO4 - the most economically practical sulfur-based fertilizer] is also a great compound for reducing the pH of alkaline soils. Although it is commonly accepted that sulfur lowers soil pH, it’s actually the ammonium component that forms a mild acid after disassociating from a sulfate ion. In the case of adding ammonium sulfate to alkaline soils, the sulfur just comes along for the ride.

WHEN AND HOW TO APPLY SULFUR While elemental sulfur (88% pure) is occasionally used to decrease soil pH, most applicators prefer ammonium sulfate. If using ammonium sulfate or any other sulfur-based fertilizer or soil amendment , perform a soil pH test first, then follow the application instructions on the label. Applying too much ammonium sulfate can burn your lawn. Once applied, wait at least 60 days before performing another soil test to determine if more ammonium sulfate should be added. Ammonium sulfate is most effective and safest on turf when applied in the spring, then summer if conditions warrant an additional application. Avoid fall applications due to increased risk of disease and dead patches. Ammonium sulfate is non-flammable and does not clump under high-humidity, making it easy to store and use across multiple seasons.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Taking a glance inside the 2017 New England GROWS Show with the TurfCare™ Road Crew

Tue, 19 Dec 2017 05:00:00 GMT

At the end of November, the TurfCare™ Road Crew, including members of the Executive Team, Northeast Regional Sales Manager and the Marketing department set out to Boston, Massachusetts to participate in the 2017 New England GROWS show. At the show booth, the TCS Road Crew shared industry knowledge, revealed the new brand and look of GrowStar™ products and launched the exciting new additions to the AMP-XC™ Technology line-up, which now includes fertilizer and a liquid concentrate (available late 2017-early 2018). Upon visiting the booth, guests received a complimentary TurfCare™ notepad, had the opportunity to enter to win a case of AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate as well as walked away with a FREE 8oz sample of the NEW AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate!

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR CASE OF AMP-XC™ LIQUID CONCENTRATE WINNERS: MIKE MORANDI AND RYAN AHO! (NOT PICTURED)

After making a push to expand TurfCare™’s social media presence in 2017, TurfCare™ has enjoyed connecting with and was happy to have been visited, at the show, by one of our lawn care social media friends, Jay Fraser from Fraser Landscape. It was TurfCare™'s pleasure to meet with Jay, learn about his interests and passion for the industry as well as his service to his community. Jay has been in the green industry for 15 years and within the last three he started his own company, Fraser Landscape in Cape Code, MA. He began to gain his expansive green industry knowledge when he ran a lawn health care division for a large landscape company in Cape Cod. Check out Jay on Instagram (@fraserlandscape) for before & after’s, landscaping advice, giveaways, and typical days at Fraser Landscape. We also had a special visit from our good friend, JC the Lawn Care Guy who is a local from around the Boston area. Look for JC the Lawn Care Guy on Instagram (@jc_thelawnacareguy) for tips he shares as well as for his hashtag #LawnSquadNation. You can also subscribe to JC the Lawn Care Guy’s NEW YouTube Channel where he shares his passion, lawn care experiences and tips. You can even see a day in life at our manufacturing plant in Hatfield, MA where JC went on a tour.

The 2017 New England GROWS show was a great event for TurfCare™ to meet with a variety of landscape professionals, explain TurfCare™ services and discuss how TCS can better serve their community. Thanks to the TurfCare™ team for representing their company so well and a special thanks to all the event attendees and landscapers that stopped by the booth and made it a truly enjoyable and successful event! Also, another special shout out to all the partners, clients and friends who stopped by to share updates, ideas and catch up on industry news; it's always so nice to see everyone at this outstanding event.

Huge thanks once again to the New England GROWS staff, sponsors and attendees. It was great to meet all who visited our booth and we hope to see you next year.

Your friend in fertilizer,

Turf Care Supply Corp.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog . For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Snow Shoveling Safety Reminders

Tue, 19 Dec 2017 05:00:00 GMT

8 REMINDERS TO KEEP YOUR CREW & YOURSELF SAFE WHILE SHOVELING SNOW THIS WINTER

Shoveling snow is hard, strenuous and tedious work, especially during a large snow storm. Here are a few shoveling safety reminders to keep your team and you safe while shoveling this winter:

1. WEAR PROPER CLOTHING

Layering during the cold months is typical winter weather advice but try wearing breathable layers that are easy to take off if you begin to overheat. Avoid wearing manmade materials, heavy wools or other clothing that does not allow sweat to evaporate (cotton clothing is best). Look at your feet, are you wearing waterproof shoes with good traction? If not, perhaps consider changing them so your feet stay warm and dry as well as preventing you from slipping.

NOTE: If you’re shoveling near the road, wear bright colors or a yellow safety jacket (or vest) so oncoming traffic can easily spot your team or you.

2. STRETCH AND KEEP A STEADY PACE

Whether you realize it or not, shoveling snow is a work out. Just like any other time you work out, you should stretch to warm up your muscles prior to the activity in order to prevent injury and fatigue. Start shoveling slowly; keep a steady pace, especially during a heavy snow storm where you and your team will be shoveling more frequently. You will want to leave yourself with enough energy.

3. STAY ON TOP OF SHOVELING

No, we’re not saying to literally go outside and stand on the snow, but we are suggesting to stay ahead of a storm, especially during a heavy snow to prevent extreme snow and ice buildup. Try clearing snow every few inches instead of waiting for the storm to end.

4. DON'T USE A SHOVEL THAT IS TOO LARGE

The larger the shovel, the more energy exerted. The excessive effort from pushing and shoveling with a shovel that is too large will tire a person out and put strain on the body.

5. PUSH IT! PUSH IT REAL GOOD!

Whenever you can, try pushing the snow rather than lifting. If you do need to lift the snow, don’t overload your shovel; do smaller more frequent scoops. When lifting, lift with your legs and knees, not your back. Bend with the knees and lift, focus on your legs doing the work.

6. REFUEL YOUR BODY WITH PROPER NUTRITION

That means water, healthy food, electrolytes, etc. Although coffee, hot coco and greasy food may sound great, you shouldn’t fuel your body with that during a long day of shoveling. While those foods may be delicious they will dehydrate and run down your body, causing fatigue.

7. WATCH FOR TRAFFIC

Pay attention to the surroundings, especially when shoveling near the road. Vehicles may not have good traction when there is snow and ice as well as a loss of visibility during a heavy storm.

8. CARRY YOUR PHONE FOR EMERGENCY

It is important to have a means of contact while out shoveling in case of emergency. Be sure that you are able to hear it as well as have easy access to it.

In the end, by keeping these safety tips in mind, you can feel good knowing that your team and yourself will be safe during the long winter months to come as everyone sets out to remove snow. Be cautious, stay warm and be safe!

If not already instated, Turf Care Supply Corp recommends you consider you and your teams' safety goals before adding these safety tips to your snow removal safety rules. These safety tips are guidelines and suggestions, please abide by any safety rules and regulations already set into place by your company currently. Discuss with company owners/managers for approval prior to trying any of these safety tips.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

JOE KNOWS! Micronutrients Effect on Turf

Mon, 20 Nov 2017 05:00:00 GMT

WHY THEY'RE IMPORTANT AND HOW PH AFFECTS THEIR BIOAVAILABILITY IN SOIL

When it comes to making the most of trace elements in the soil, plants are incredibly resourceful! It’s no secret that carbon (C), oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H) are the building blocks of life. Lipids (fats) and sugars are made of C, H & O. These molecules provide energy in different forms; not just for plants, but for all forms of life. All organisms are also made up of cells. Each cell is surrounded by a cell membrane, which is made of lipids. Fortunately, C, H & O are more than abundant in most environments (our atmosphere is loaded with CO2, O2, H2 and H20). In plant science, C, H & O are referred to as Basic Nutrients.

We are all more than familiar with the Primary Nutrients as well; Nitrogen , Phosphorous , and Potassium (N-P-K). Healthy turf metabolism depends on an ample supply of these three elements. When any of these three (particularly nitrogen) are depleted in the soil, plant growth visibly suffers.

Also of great importance is the Secondary Nutrients: Calcium, Magnesium and Sulfur. Calcium plays an important role in cell signaling, cell division mechanisms, and disease resistance. Magnesium is of paramount importance to plants; every single chlorophyll molecule has a magnesium ion located at its center. Without magnesium, photosynthesis could not take place. Sulfur is present in many amino acids and proteins. Even though it is not needed in large quantities in northern regions, sulfur also acts as a soil conditioner by helping to mitigate sodium uptake in plants (sodium is usually in excess in most environments and is considered an abiotic stressor).

MICRONUTRIENT ROLES

Iron (Fe) – Easily the most recognizable micronutrient, iron is commonly associated with giving turf a ‘deep green up.’ Iron is involved in the synthesis of chlorophyll (dark green pigmented molecules that drive photosynthesis in plants), so it’s no surprise that plants deficient in iron suffer from a condition called “chlorosis” (yellowing sheathes). Iron is also used to transport oxygen and carry electrons (a form of energy) throughout the plant.

Manganese (Mn) – Also involved in the synthesis of chlorophyll, manganese plays an important role in nitrogen metabolism. Manganese is also a cofactor for over 35 enzymes in different metabolic pathways. Without it, plants would struggle to produce lignin, a phenolic compound that gives plants structural rigidity and protects against biotic stresses (insect feeding and fungal pathogens).

Zinc (Zn) – This micronutrient is important for the formation of many proteins and enzymes. Zinc deficiencies often result in poorly developed root systems, but also stunted growth and extra sensitivity to high levels of light and heat. Even when present in adequate concentrations in the soil, excessive phosphorus (either native P in the soil, or applied P fertilizers) can lead to zinc deficiencies in plants. Zinc also affects the plant’s ability to take up water from the soil. With so many biological systems dependent on zinc, a zinc deficiency could manifest itself in the form of various symptoms.

Copper (Cu) – Many of the metabolic roles performed by copper are identical to those of zinc. Additionally, copper has a greater role in carbohydrate and protein metabolism. Copper availability is also adversely affected by increasing concentrations of phosphorous and potassium.

Boron (B) – This little discussed micronutrient plays and important role in sugar transport as well as cell wall strength. With the window between boron deficiency and excessiveness in plants being very narrow, plants are completely dependent on uniform distribution of boron in the soil. Boron is usually taken up in the form of boric acid and is transported though xylem (the plant’s vascular system for transporting water). Ideal concentrations of boron also positively influence phosphorus and potassium uptake. Plants deficient in boron usually exhibit stunted growth.

Molybdenum (Mo) – This element has a very specific role in plants - it assists with the conversion of nitrate to nitrite, and then nitrite into ammonia. Ammonia is then subsequently converted into amino acids by plants which are used to make proteins and other macromolecules. Molybdenum deficiencies are rare, but can be brought about by excessive use of nitrate fertilizers. The use of ammoniacal fertilizers (such as UREA, MU, AS, MAP, DAP) slows the depletion rate considerably. Plants deficient in molybdenum commonly exhibit a distinct chlorotic ring around the perimeter of blades and sheathes, sometimes accompanied by chlorotic venation.

Chlorine (Cl) - Often tagging along with a metal ion in the form of a salt, chloride (Cl-) aids in osmosis (the diffusion of water though plant cell membranes), as well as ion channel regulation. Excess chloride becomes very toxic, even at low concentrations. Chloride deficiencies are practically unheard of since salts (NaCl) are usually in abundance in most soils worldwide.

Nickel (N) – Originally thought to have no role in plant nutrition, it is now understood that Nickel plays a critical role in Nitrogen metabolism. Nickel ions are part of the enzyme structure of urease, the enzyme that converts urea into ammonia. Even though Nickel is needed in very low concentrations, without it plants could not metabolize urea, the most abundant form of nitrogen fertilizer. Plant biologists are currently in the process of discovering how Nickel assists with disease tolerance in plants. Plants deficient in nickel show virtually no symptoms since it is almost impossible to have no nickel present in most soils.

MAKING THE CONNECTION – PH AFFECTS PLANT MICRONUTRIENT BIOAVAILABILITY

Now that we have a better understanding of the roles micronutrients play in plant health, it is important to understand how soil pH can radically affect their bioavailability to plants. Bioavailability is a term used to describe elements that are both present in the soil AND in a chemical form where they are ready to be taken into the plant for nutritional use. For example, phosphorous is abundant in many soils, however much of the phosphorus is tightly bound up by metal oxides (AlO, FeO, CaO, etc.). Certain chemical bonds between phosphorous and metal oxides are so tight that those phosphorous molecules cannot be used by the plant, therefore they are “biounavailable.”

JARGON

Chlorotic Venation: just means that all the veins look white/yellowish, but the rest of the leaf looks green. Chlorosis is a generalized term used to describe plant tissue that is not green and healthy due to nutritional deficiencies. Most of the time Chlorosis is a result of plants not being able to make chlorophyll (the dark green pigment).

Necrosis: the death of most or all of the cells in an organ or tissue due to disease, injury, or failure of the blood supply.

Molting: Shedding of Plant Parts focused on the anatomical, physiological, and ecological features of shedding of vegetative and reproductive parts of plants.

Spindly: A type of growth that occurs when plants shade each other, restricting the amount of light each receives, and because seedlings compete for nutrients, growing poorly and developing thin stems and small leaves.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://soils.wisc.edu/facstaff/barak/soilscience326/macronut.htm

http://eldoradochemical.com/fertiliz1.htm

http://www.cropnutrition.com/manganese-in-crop-production

http://www.journalrepository.org/media/journals/AJEA_2/2013/Mar/1363870284-Hafeez322012AJEA2746.pdf

http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/training-center/role-of-copper-in-plant-culture/

http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/training-center/role-of-molybdenum-in-plant-culture/

http://www.hortidaily.com/article/13401/Role-of-nickel-in-plant-culture

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/sulfur-in-plants.html

Liquid vs. Granular Fertilizer

Mon, 20 Nov 2017 05:00:00 GMT

LEARN THE PROS & CONS TO FIND WHICH METHOD IS BETTER FOR YOUR LAWN CARE NEEDS!

When choosing how to fertilize a lawn, you have probably been faced with the dilemma of whether or not to use a liquid or a granular application. When it comes to treating a lawn, plants aren’t capable of telling the difference between the vehicle in which fertilizer or control products are applied, but there are pros and cons to each which are important to understand. It is helpful to review the differences prior to choosing between these types of applications to decide which will work best for you.

LIQUID FERTILIZER

Liquid fertilizers are concentrates of water-soluble synthetic chemicals or powders that contain mixes of N-P-K (Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium) as well as insecticides, fungicides, weed killers, or wetting agents. Commonly used liquid lawn applicators include backpack, push sprayers or spray trucks.

PROS

Even application, identical nutrients or control technology in every drop
Provides a uniform application
Nutrients become readily available to plants
Can be ground applied or foliar applied (taken up by roots or leaves of plants)
Foliar applications allow for fast corrections to mid-season deficiencies
Ease of blending. Mixes well with other lawn care pesticides, other control or soil amendment technologies
Available for both starter and in-season applications
Phosphorus is more mobile in liquid applications
More control over creating your own mix
Easy clean-up
Less chance of drift to nearby flower and shrub beds

CONS

Fast-release technology requires frequent applications to maintain lawn health & color
Improper mixing and application can burn turf
More susceptible to volatilization and product loss
Converting to liquid fertilizer equipment can be expensive
Products can settle out over time and in regions that experiences cold weather, products can salt out (sludge-like matter that develops when the temperature of the water cools, triggering the some of the fertilizer concentrate to revert back to its solid form; causing it to clog your sprayers if not brought back to normal temperature and mixed once warmer weather returns)
Products have a shelf life of roughly 8-10 years

GRANULAR

Granular products, also known as dry fertilizers, are blends that can be created by mixing different nutrient combinations into a desired analysis (example: N-P-K, 12-24-10) as well as be treated with a variety of control technologies for desired results. A rotary or broadcast spreader typically applies granular lawn care products.

PROS

Option of customizing/fine-tuning a lawn care fertility program
Slow release options are more readily available and allow for less applications needed (great for continued feedings during stressful times of heat and drought), allowing results to last much longer
Product analyses can be easily changed or substituted to fit specific needs
More efficient for pre-plant applications
Cheaper when purchased in bulk
Does not “go bad” if stored properly
Easy to store
It can also be seen on the lawn so you can tell where the product has been applied

CONS

Inappropriate application can lead to burning of turf
Applications may require clean-up (sweeping up extra fertilizer off of paved surfaces) and may drift into flowers or shrubs
Individual nutrient components in every granule, can lead to non-uniform amount of nutrients distributed if not applied correctly
Immobile nutrients like phosphorus remained locked up in the soil since they can’t be carried like liquid in water
High salt content that can lead roots to steering away from the nutrients if applied incorrectly

In conclusion, although liquid and granular fertilizer application methods have their differences, you can choose one or the other or find a balance of using both during the growing season to create a program that enhances a lawns health and works best for you.

NOTE: No matter the process of application, read ALL label instructions before applying product to a lawn to prevent inappropriate methods of applying fertilizer that may cause damage or burning of turf.

Turf Care Supply Corp does not recommend one vehicle of application for fertilizer over another. We recommend you consider your lawn care goals and how they correlate to ease and convenience of application, costs, and potential plant response when making fertilizer application choices.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Taking a Glance Inside the 2017 GIE+EXPO with the TurfCare™ Road Crew

Fri, 17 Nov 2017 05:00:00 GMT

Last month, the TurfCare™ Road Crew, including the Executive Team, Sales Managers, the Agronomist and the Marketing department set out to Louisville, Kentucky to participate in the 2017 GIE+EXPO. At the show booth, the TCS Road Crew shared industry knowledge, revealed the new brand and look of GrowStar™ products and launched the exciting new additions to the AMP-XC™ Technology line-up, which now includes fertilizer and a liquid concentrate (available late 2017-early 2018). Upon visiting the booth, guests received complimentary coffee, had the opportunity to enter to win a Lesco® Sprayer or Spreader and walked away with a FREE 8oz sample of the NEW AMP-XC™ liquid concentrate!

Congratulations to our Lesco® Spreader winners: Scott & Shannon Wells and Al Beall!

Congratulations to our Lesco® Sprayer Winners: Larry Atkins and Todd Northcutt (not pictured).

After making a push to expand their social media presence in 2017, TurfCare has enjoyed connecting with and was happy to have been visited by at the show, two lawn care social media stars, JC the Lawn Care Guy and Jake The Lawn Kid . It was TurfCare's pleasure to meet with them both, learn about their interests, passion for the industry and their service to their community. JC received his love for the Lawn Care Industry years ago when his mother encouraged him to help out some people in his neighborhood who were unable to tend to their own yard. From there, he expanded his knowledge of the industry, from perfecting proper application techniques to testing and sharing innovative product results, as well as continuing to assist those in need in his community. Look for JC the Lawn Care Guy on Instagram ( @jc_thelawnacareguy ) for tips he shares as well as for his hashtag #LawnSquadNation . Jake The Lawn Kid who TurfCare was also excited to meet, is a talented young man who was first introduced and found his passion for the industry thanks to his neighbor, the Lawn Care Nut. Hardworking and currently running his own business, he manages and maintains lawns throughout his neighborhood. Check out/subscribe to Jake The Lawn Kid's YouTube channel at youtube.com/c/JakeTheLawnKid where he shares his passion and lawn care experiences.

The 2017 GIE+EXPO was a great event for TurfCare™ to meet with a variety of landscape professionals, explain our services and discuss how we can better serve their community. Thanks to the TurfCare™ team for representing their company so well and a special thanks to all the event attendees and landscapers that stopped by the booth and made it a truly enjoyable and successful event! Also another special shout out to all the partners, clients and friends who stopped by to share updates, ideas and catch up on industry news; it's always so nice to see everyone at this outstanding event.

Huge thanks once again to the GIE+EXPO staff, sponsors and attendees. It was great to meet all who visited our booth and we hope to see you next year.

Your friend in fertilizer,

Turf Care Supply Corp.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog . For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Tackling Weeds in The Fall

Fri, 13 Oct 2017 04:00:00 GMT

WIN THE FIGHT AGAINST LATE SEASON INVADERS!

Did you know that one of the best times to promote a healthy lawn and treat for weeds is the fall? Yes, it’s true! During the summer, the weed lifecycle is dominated by foliar top growth, but as fall approaches, perennial weeds begin to transport energy in the form of sugar down to their roots systems in order to prepare for the impending winter. This is a great time to apply both pre- and post-emergent herbicides. As plants transition from storing energy in their leaves to their roots, post-emergent herbicides will be absorbed foliarly and transported down into the roots resulting in highly effective control. A fall treatment will not only control pervasive fall weeds, but also defend against early spring invaders as well.

WHY ISN’T A SINGLE HERBICIDE APPLICATION IN THE SPRING ENOUGH?

Weeds can invade your turf grass anytime of the year. There are numerous summer annual and biennial weeds that need to be controlled in order to defend against outbreaks. If you have weeds in spring, it’s a safe assumption that many of them were already entrenched in your lawn the previous fall. This is the primary reason you shouldn’t treat for weeds only in the spring. As previously mentioned, perennials that grow in late summer/early fall will begin to store energy in their roots to overwinter, so by treating in the fall, you’re effectively preventing a spring outbreak.

SHOULD I USE A PRE OR POST-EMERGENT HERBICIDE?

For maximum effectiveness, try to find a lawn care product that contains both. The benefit is “two for one” when you treat your lawn for weeds in the fall because you can target both annual and perennial broadleaf invaders with an herbicide that combines pre- and post-emergent control. A post-emergent attacks weeds that are already established while a pre-emergent tackles newly germinated weeds before they can establish and disperse.

Before applying any fall herbicide treatments, closely examine the product’s active ingredients or AI’s. There are a wide variety of pre-emergent herbicides offered in the market. Some of the more prominent technologies include Prodiamine, Dithiopyr (Dimension®), and Specticle®. There are also a wide variety of technologies that provide post-emergent control, many of which stack multiple technologies in one formulation. Common post-emergent chemistries include 2,4-D; MCPP; and dicamba. Combining multiple technologies allows for a wider spectrum of broadleaf weed control.

NOTE: Carefully examine the list of “controlled weeds” (typically labeled on each bag) in order to determine if the control agent is the right one for your situation.
ProTip: Herbicides can be applied in liquid or granular form. Herbicides are often combined with fertilizers so you can kill the weeds and feed your turf in one single application.

TREATMENT TIMING

The best times to apply herbicides in the fall vary with region and climate. For cool season grasses in southern regions (south of the Ohio River), fall treatments may be applied as early as September and as late as November (often in conjunction with fall fertilization). In northern regions, treatments can be applied as early as Labor Day, typically ending by early November. A good rule of thumb is to apply herbicides when air temperatures average at least 50° F or above. To help determine the best timing for herbicide applications in your area, contact your local extension agent.

NOTE: Read and follow all directions of use and application instructions prior to the use any lawn care product.

Get started on the lawn care weed battle for next year by following through with pre and post-emergent treatments this fall. Take down those invaders before they become a nuisance next spring!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

JOE KNOWS! FALL into These Lawn Care Habits

Fri, 13 Oct 2017 04:00:00 GMT

6 EASY STEPS TO “WINTERIZE” YOUR LAWN FOR A SPECTACULAR SPRING

October is my favorite month of the year! Fresh apple cider, carved pumpkins, cool crisp nights, and of course, where I’m at in the mid-west, the spectacular display of vibrant fall colors that compels me to break out my camera. And there’s nothing quite like the sight of a dense, lush green lawn filling in the foreground of a mixed beech-maple forest scene - where the red, orange, and yellow leaves are so intense, they look like they’re on fire.

Have you ever noticed how most lawns just “look” better in the spring, and again in the fall? That’s because most turf grasses are adapted to perform best during the cool/moist growing seasons in their native habitats. Here in the mid-west, those months tend to be May/June and September/October. At lower latitudes, those ideal growing seasons tend to begin earlier and end later respectively. As the days get shorter and temperatures begin to fall, turf grass metabolism slows, along with growth rate. Finally, that “first-frost” makes its appearance, and your lawn knows exactly what’s just around the corner; winter.

To ensure that your turf grass can survive the winter months, there are many steps you can take to “winterize” your lawn so that it has all the growing conditions and nutrients needed to make it through even the harshest conditions. Completing these 6 simple steps in autumn will strengthen your turf grass and give you the kind of lawn you’ve always dreamed about come spring!

1. LAST MOW OF THE YEAR TO PREVENT WHITE MOLD PREVENTION

When your turf visibly stops growing is when you should mow your lawn for the last time of the season. No need to overthink this one! However, one concern that should be on every landscaper’s mind is the threat of snow mold. Coming in two varieties (pink and gray), snow mold is a fungus that outright kills grass in late winter/early spring when the snow starts to melt. Just because your lawn has never had it, doesn’t mean it can’t take hold in the right conditions. The best method of prevention is to lower your cutting blade by about 25% on your final mow of the year. This will reduce your lawns height which will in turn prevent grass blade matting (the perfect growing conditions for white mold). Keeping your thatch layer below ½ inch, as well as leaf-mulching or raking all the leaves away before the first snowfall are two other important steps you can take to prevent a potential outbreak.

NOTE: In warm and arid climates, where the average rainfall is less than 20 inches per year, mowing should continue as normal but only about half as often (skip weeks). Leave the clipping on your yard for this layer will help hold in moisture over the winter while returning Nitrogen , Phosphorus and Potassium back to a lawn. Don’t trim your grass too short but also be wary of leaving it too long ; southern lawns need to be at a good length in order to let it protect itself naturally.

2. AERATION

The process of aeration consists of nothing more than punching small holes in the ground at regular intervals. Aeration is an often-overlooked step that performs three important functions: 1.) It reduces soil compaction 2.) It prevents excess thatch accumulation 3.) It increases the number of channels for oxygen, water, and nutrients to make their way into the root system, resulting in healthier, denser roots and a more stress-resistant turf. This is a simple step everyone should add to his or her lawn care lineup.

3. APPLY NITROGEN FERTILIZER

Did you know that one of the most important times of year to apply nitrogen is in early fall? A supply of nitrogen in the fall will help fortify your turf for better winter survival and provide a reserve that the plant will utilize come spring. This simple step will also help promote a deep green color late into fall when most other grasses are losing their vibrancy.

NOTE: Don’t apply nitrogen fertilizer during the 2nd half of fall; this creates a climate conducive to white mold outbreaks.

4. GOT WEEDS? APPLY POST-EMERGENCE BROADLEAF HERBICIDES

Naturally, the best defense against weeds taking hold is a dense, thick turf with minimal thatch and no bare spots. Sometimes, regardless of turf density, weeds are persistent. As a precaution, the use of a post-emergent broadleaf herbicide is recommended. Applying this in the fall will ensure that any weeds (such as dandelion, clover, and ground ivy) that might secretly be taking hold in your lawn don’t get a chance to blossom in the spring.

5. PERFORM SEEDING / RESEEDING / SODDING

The best time of year to plant cool season grasses from seed is late summer/early fall. Remember, cool season grasses are optimized to grow during the cool-moist season, so if you have any bare patches of land to seed, or any reseeding work to perform, wait until after the height of the summer temperatures. For most of the northern U.S., this means early September. For the southern U.S., late September to early October is the best time to seed. *Important* never use a pre-emergent herbicide while seeding/reseeding. Pre-emergent herbicides will kill germinating grass seeds. For soil that has been thoroughly turned over, make sure to use a starter fertilizer with optimum levels of phosphorous.

If you’ve decided to completely start your lawn over from scratch and have chosen to install sod over dropping seed, early fall is the best time to accomplish this task. Make sure to perform a soil test to check for any nutritional deficiencies. Most of the time, sod has already been adequately fertilized by the sod farm. After installing sod, allow the root system to adapt and anchor into the topsoil BEFORE adding any fertilizer (most sod experts recommend waiting 30-60 days before applying any fertilizer to a newly sodded lawn). During the first 7-10 days, make sure the lawn is adequately watered, then gradually reduce to recommended irrigation levels appropriate for grass type and climate.

6. ADJUST SOIL PH WITH LIME

Last, a simple soil pH test will determine whether or not to add lime to your soil, and if so, how much. It is important to remember that in extremely acidic soils, both turf grass and beneficial bacteria struggle to grow. The addition of fertilizer can have a profound effect on soil pH, therefore lime is the perfect balancing agent. It is important to read all application rate instructions to prevent the deposit of too much lime. Too much lime can lead to alkaline soil, which have been known to accelerate nitrate leaching , as well as decrease phosphorous availability to plant roots.

That’s it! FALL into these 6 simple habits, and your lawn will be more green and lush than it’s ever been when spring rolls in. In the meantime, don’t forget to enjoy this year’s peak fall color; it only lasts for a few short weeks each year!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

The Turf[TECH]Report - Prodiamine: Widely Used & Effective Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Wed, 11 Oct 2017 04:00:00 GMT

DON’T LET WEEDS RUIN YOUR LAWN THIS FALL!

When most of us think about crabgrass and broadleaf weed control, we tend to think about heavy applications of pre-emergent herbicides in the spring. In fact, fall is an equally important time to treat your lawn. All season long, annual grasses, wildflowers, and weeds have been working hard to produce seeds that are feverishly trying to establish themselves on your turf. As established turf begins to slow down its growth rate and enter winter dormancy, weeds will find no refuge in a lawn that has been treated with a pre-emergent herbicide. In this edition of Turf[TECH]Report, we’re taking a closer look at one of the widely used and most cost effective pre-emergent herbicides on the market: Prodiamine .

WHAT DOES PRODIAMINE CONTROL?

Great for control of crabgrass, prodiamine is also effective against summer annual grasses, annual blue grass, goosegrass , spurge , chickweed , and a large number of annual broadleaf weeds. Prodiamine is safe to use on established turf (with exception to golf putting greens) and around ornamentals/established perennials. It is also safe for use on tree farms.

CHEMICAL NATURE

Prodiamine is a member of the Dinitroaniline family of pre-emergent herbicides. It is commonly referred to by its trade name, Barricade. Pre-emergent chemistries similar to Prodiamine include Trifluralin, Pendimethalin, and Benefin. Prodiamine is a popular control agent due to its low volatility and its ability to break down to non-phytotoxic levels in a relatively short time frame. Pure Prodiamine comes in fine granular form and can be dispersed by mixing with water (creating an orange/yellow solution) or tacked onto a granular fertilizer and dispersed with a spreader. Prodiamine has no post-emergent properties.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE BIOLOGICAL MODE OF ACTION FOR PRODIAMINE

All members of the Dinitroaniline family of herbicides function as microtubule assembly inhibitors. It sounds complicated, but it’s not so bad once we brush up on our high school biology! Here’s how Prodiamine works:

Plants, just like all organisms, have cells. All cells must grow and divide (a process called mitosis). Before cells divide, their contents including their chromosomes (DNA) are duplicated.
Microtubules attach to clusters of duplicated chromosomes and help separate them so that when one cell splits into two, both cells have an equal number of chromosomes.
Prodiamine works as a microtubule assembly inhibitor. What this means is, Prodiamine stops plant cells from being able to produce tubulin.
Tubulin is the protein molecule that makes up microtubules.
In summary, if plant cells can’t make tubulin, then they can’t make microtubules. If they can’t make microtubules, they can’t separate their chromosomes during mitosis. And if they can’t separate their chromosomes, the cell fails to divide. If cells can’t divide, the plant stops growing. Ultimately, the plant dies.

THE SIGNS & SYMPTOMS THAT DEMONSTRATE PRODIAMINE IS WORKING Remember, Prodiamine is a pre-emergent herbicide, which means many weeds and grasses treated in the seedling stage will fail to germinate. Those that do germinate usually experience severely stunted growth characterized by short, swollen coleoptiles and hypocotyls (the emergent stem and first leaf). Prodiamine impairs root development; treated plants typically experience short stubby secondary roots and limited root hair development. This results in the plant starving due to its inability to find nutrition in the soil. Thickened short stems and crinkled leaves are another indication of Prodiamine’s effectiveness.

WHEN SHOULD I APPLY PRODIAMINE?

Prodiamine can be applied all by itself, or in conjunction with a fertilizer or liming treatment . For maximum effectiveness, an early spring application is suggested as temperatures begin to climb into the 50 degrees Fahrenheit. An additional application in the fall is also important and will help ensure that weed seeds from the current growing season do not get a chance to establish themselves going into winter and fewer weeds will be present in your turf grass in spring. For lawns with excessive weeds and crabgrass, a mid-summer application may be necessary. It is safe to apply Prodiamine three times in the same growing season (at regular intervals).

WHEN IS IT SAFE TO RESEED?

As is the case with all pre-emergent herbicides, DO NOT APPLY Prodiamine to newly seeded grass, nor newly germinating grass, as this will kill establishing grass in both cases. It is recommended that reseeding take place no earlier than 6-8 weeks after a treatment.

JARGON ALERT

Non-phytotoxic: not poisonous to plants
Microtubules: a hollow cylindrical structure in the cytoplasm of most cells, involved in intracellular shape and transport.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

NEW PRODUCT ALERT! Fertilizer powered by AMP-XC™ with Humic!

Thu, 07 Sep 2017 04:00:00 GMT

View spec sheet of Fertilizer powered by AMP-XC™

IMPROVES PLANT PERFORMANCE TO GET MORE OUT OF YOUR FERTILITY MANAGEMENT PROGRAMS

Due to the success of the AMP-XC™ Enhanced line of soil amendments and starter, incredible field test results and by popular request, Turf Care Supply Corp. has decided to offer this powerful technology on fertilizer! AMP-XC™ is an innovative biocatalyst that increases nutrient availability and improves plant performance to get more out of fertility management programs. To take it one step further, Turf Care Supply Corp. has paired the AMP-XC™ technology with the most concentrated organic substance, Humic, to create an enhanced fertilizer line with superior results and unlike anything else on the market!

TCS GrowStar™ Professional Fertilizers powered by AMP-XC™ are a premium all-encompassing blend of nutrients, protein hydrolysates and humic acids. This revolutionary product line is designed to meet your turf’s nutritional needs and deliver that nutrition to root systems with maximum uptake efficiency. This powerful combination of ingredients activates several beneficial biological and environmental responses in the plant and soil, resulting in a thicker, hardier root system and a dense, lush green turf.

WHY IS THIS ENHANCED LINE MORE BENEFICIAL THAN TRADITIONAL FERTILIZERS?

Traditional fertilizers contain varying amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium, 3 macronutrients essential for overall plant growth and health. Even when abundant in the soil, these nutrients are of no benefit until they are absorbed by the plant’s root system. Over time, many of these nutrients are lost to the environment due to nitrification, volatilization, and leaching . AMP-XC™ and Humic work together to increase overall root length and root hair density, significantly increasing the plant’s ability to access and transport more nutrients bound in the soil before they are lost. TCS GrowStar Professional Fertilizer powered by AMP-XC™ with Humic use macronutrients more efficiently by taking advantage of the plant’s naturally biochemistry. This results in a significant reduction in the amount of fertilizer needed, translating into a significant cost savings.

WHAT IS AMP-XC™?

AMP-XC™ is plant-derived protein hydrolysates made up of essential amino acids, naturally sourced and combined at a specific ratio to ensure excellent nutrient uptake resulting in a healthier, stronger turf. Proteins are essential macromolecules that catalyze numerous biochemical processes; the building blocks of proteins are amino acids. Amino acids are required at every stage of turf growth and are an essential component of plant metabolism (ex: photosynthesis, respiration, nutrition acquisition/ utilization, stress-tolerance mechanisms, etc.). Lush green turf color comes from foliar tissue packed with chlorophyll, pigmented molecules which allow the plant to convert sunlight into useful energy. Without an abundance of amino acids to build chlorophyll molecules, plants suffer from a condition called chlorosis, most commonly visualized by the yellowing of turf blades.

WHAT IS HUMIC ACID?

Humic acids are created by the microbial degradation of biomolecules (lipids, proteins, carbohydrates, lignin) dispersed in the environment after the death of living cells. Humic is an all-natural bio-stimulant that has a “hormone-like effect” on plant growth and metabolism, but without the negative side-effects of actual hormones. In addition to playing other roles in plant nutrition uptake, Humic acids have the remarkable ability to chelate (attach and hold) positively charged ions (Mg, Ca, Fe and other “trace minerals”) in the soil. Humic acids then deliver these essential micronutrients to the plant by adsorbing (attaching) to the root hairs so that they may be transported into the plant for use.

Humic acid is not a fertilizer, however, it greatly improves nutrient uptake and is an excellent complement to fertilizer. Humic can help break up compacted soils when applied to clay soils (aerate the soil from the inside), allowing for enhanced water penetration and improved root growth and development. When applied to sandy soils, humic substances add essential organic material and increase water retention resulting in an increase root growth rate and a decrease nutrient leaching.

BENEFITS OF FERTILIZER POWERED BY AMP-XC™ AND HUMIC

Delivers nutrition to the root systems with maximum uptake efficiency (saving cost on nutrients required!)
Activates biological and environmental responses in the plant and soil, resulting in a thicker, hardier root system and a dense, lush green turf
Deepens the plant’s green color through increased chlorophyll concentration resulting in increased photosynthesis
Enhances the uptake of nutrients (both micro and macro) within the soil
Acts as a natural chelator (which facilitates the uptake of trace minerals and prevents them from leaching out of the root zone in the soil)
Improves the sequestration of iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium and other cations difficult to procure from the soil
Stimulates root growth (longer primary roots and more root hairs) leading to thicker, more stress-tolerant turf
Activates soil microorganisms which more efficiently breakdown organic matter
Supplements organic matter into organically-deficient soils
Improves seed germination
Improves heat and drought hardiness, as well as physical agitation stress (high foot traffic)
Fortifies turf’s ability to survive prolonged winter dormancy
Improves blade mass and vitality

To get beautiful healthy turf, the most out of your fertilizer program and the highest return on your financial nutrient investment, use fertilizer powered by AMP-XC™ . Contact your distributor to order today.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

JOE KNOWS...

Wed, 06 Sep 2017 04:00:00 GMT

MEET TURFCARE'S NEW AGRONOMIST

LOOK FOR JOE'S UPCOMING ADVICE & TIPS ON PLANT HEALTH & LAWN CARE MANAGEMENT!

A native of Cleveland, Ohio, Joe Marchinchin earned his Bachelor of Science in Biology from Baldwin-Wallace College in Berea, OH. He went on to earn his Master of Science in Agronomy, (emphasis: plant molecular biology) in the Crop & Soil Sciences Department of Penn State University in State College, PA. At Penn State, Joe studied the roles CCoAOMT genes play in the regulation of lignin deposition inside the cell walls of corn cobs, and how differences in lignin content confer resistance against key fungal pathogens that might contaminate corn kernels.

Joe is TurfCare™’s new Agronomist. Some of Joe’s responsibilities include fertilizer recipe formulation and label review. Joe has been charged with the task of researching and developing new technologies which will help TurfCare™ maintain its status as an industry leading producer and supplier of turf fertilizers , soil amendments and control products . Two of Joe’s goals are to (1) transition and conduct more of Turfcare™’s R&D ‘in house,’ and (2) provide a strong scientific foundation for all of TurfCare™’s emerging products and technologies. Joe is grateful for the opportunity TurfCare™ has provided him to share his passion for plant biology with all of TurfCare™’s customers.

An avid writer, Joe will also be a regular contributor to our monthly newsletter, The TurfReport. In addition to providing helpful tips for keeping your lawn lush and green throughout the growing season, Joe will also be sharing exciting stories from the plant science research community as well as the turf science arena. From the role macro and micronutrients play in plant metabolism, to controlling those pesky weeds that pop up in the spring, Joe is happy to answer any questions you might have regarding the art and science of maintaining a beautiful lawn.

When Joe is not in the office helping to bring new and exciting lawn care products to market or networking with leaders in the turf sciences, he can usually be found trackside with his camera. Ever since he was a little kid, Joe has a passion for railroad history and modern railroad operations. In his spare time, Joe has authored and reviewed nearly 1000 pages of written material for railroad historical societies and rail preservation groups. He has been published nationally in Trains Magazine, and has had his photographs published in other leading regional rail magazines. Joe also enjoys nature/landscape photography, hiking, and off-the-beaten path traveling. Some of Joe’s favorite artists include Styx, Billy Joel, and Shania Twain. Joe is also fond of classical music; his favorite composer is Maurice Ravel.

Despite all of Joe’s accomplishments throughout his working career and in his hobbies, his single greatest accomplishment in life was marrying his high-school sweetheart, Melissa, in April of 2017, on the exact day of their 13 year anniversary.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Potassium's Role In Lawn Health

Fri, 01 Sep 2017 04:00:00 GMT

THE NECESSITY OF POTASSIUM IN YOUR LAWN CARE PROGRAM Maintaining a lawn with a well-balanced fertilizer program is key to promoting strong, healthy lawn that can withstand weed and insect infestations as well as suppress diseases. There are three key nutrients needed for a lawns’ health, nitrogen (N) , phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Potassium is the nutrient most necessary to improve and protect a plants health against environmental stresses, helping your lawn better resist harsh weather and drought especially during to the winter season. Without potassium, grass would appear to be yellow and stunted in growth with a weak root system and unable to withstand harsh conditions. Discover why potassium’s role in turf and soil is important to the overall health of a lawn:

WHAT IS POTASSIUM?

Potassium or “K” is a primary plant nutrient that regulates important physiological processes that influence a plants overall ability to resist environmental stresses. Plants require K as a cofactor for enzyme activation. Potassium supports the internal process of the plant cells that affects photosynthesis, water absorption, respiration and protein production. A deficiency of potassium weakens a plant and increases its vulnerability to drought, temperature fluctuation injury and disease.

POTASSIUM BENEFITS YOUR LAWN BY

Supporting Root Development; this will help strengthen your lawn by firmly rooting grass into the soil to create a route of nutrient uptake to ensure overall health. This aids in winter survival as well as helping it look great in spring.

Promoting the Stem and Leave Growth of Plants; potassium aids in the photosynthesis process which plants go through to create their main source of energy, glucose.
Activating Plant Enzymes used in Protein, Starches and Sugar Absorption; allows easier absorption of the enzymes needed for plant survival, especially during periods of drought, temperature fluctuations and disease.
Strengthening Plant Cell Walls; a strong cell wall will aid plants in retaining key plant nutrients while allowing them to persist longer through the season. A stronger plant cell wall will increase moisture retention which will help in periods of drought.
Maintaining Turgor Pressure by regulating the amount of water that plants can intake.
Creating Lawn Disease Resistance; potassium is a plant health booster that improves a lawn’s resistance to grass and soil diseases, harsh weather and drought.
Catalyzing Iron Uptake; encourages easier uptake of iron.

HOW TO TELL IF A LAWN HAS A POTASSIUM DEFICIENCY

If a lawn is experiencing a potassium deficiency, it can manifest in different ways. By looking for visuals like yellowing of the edges of leaves, excessive weeds, leaves appearing to be burnt or turf diseases, these are all signs potassium is needed by your plant. One way to be sure of a lawn’s potassium level is to conduct a soil analysis. At home test kits can be found at your local lawn and garden store or kits may be obtained from your local county extension office.

PROTip: Soil with a lower pH will often suffer from potassium deficiencies due to increased soil acidity. Managing your soil by maintaining a neutral soil pH will keep important key nutrients, like potassium, available in the soil for plant uptake. Sandy soils are more likely to experience lower potassium levels due to its soil texture of larger pore spaces that lack the ability to retain key nutrients.

POTASSIUMS IMPORTANCE IN FALL

Although potassium is important throughout the whole lawn care season, it is most crucial during your fall application. You will notice that fertilizers recommend for fall have an increased amount of potassium in the blend. Potassium is very important to apply prior to entering cooler months to protect the roots from frost and strengthen the plants’ cell walls allowing it to better retain nutrients. This will result in strengthening your lawn to withstand the harshness of winter while helping it look great in spring!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/turfgrass-fertilization-professional#pot

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/potassium-grass-85462.html

http://www.lawncare.net/potassium-for-lawns/

https://www.thespruce.com/closer-look-at-potassium-2152969

Landscape Maintenance 101

Tue, 01 Aug 2017 04:00:00 GMT

5 WAYS TO CULTIVATE HEALTHY, BEAUTIFUL PLANTS AND ORNAMENTALS

Landscaping adds to a home’s value, curb appeal and over all aesthetics but beyond installation, plants, ornamentals, trees, and shrubs must be properly maintained to keep up their beautiful appearance. Once you make the investment to install, these landscape additions can be long lasting enjoyments to a home if properly cared for. Many plants aren’t necessarily native to the landscape’s region, so maintenance practices must be done to manage soil quality, nutrient availability and water retention to endure environmental stresses to extend the longevity of life and health of the plant. Follow these 5 tips to manage and maintain your plants and landscapes for years to come:

1. ASSESS SOIL CONDITIONS

Just like prior to treating a lawn with product, one must evaluate the soil around their landscape’s plants, trees, shrubs and ornamentals with a soil test . This will not only provide you with valuable information in regards to soil pH near the plants, but it will pinpoint any nutrient deficiencies in need of correction to maintain optimal soil fertility and lush plant growth. TIP: A soil test kit may be obtained from your local county Extension office.

NOTE: All plants, trees, shrubs and ornamentals require different levels soil pH and key nutrients to sustain healthy growth. Be sure to learn the type of nutrients and soil pH levels the plants in your landscape require to better understand what products will best maintain the health of your plants.

2. FERTILIZE

Adopting a good fertility program will help maintain the health and growth of your plants. Plants, trees, shrubs and ornamentals with strong fertilizing programs are less susceptible to disease and insect infestations. It’s important to understand that each plant group within a landscape requires different levels of nutrients ( nitrogen , phosphorus , potassium , calcium, copper, molybdenum, magnesium, iron , sulfur, manganese and boron) to sustain healthy growth. Be sure to understand and research your plants before applying fertilizer. Allow your plants one year to become established before beginning your fertilizing program.

Although there is no, all-encompassing plant fertility program to cover all landscapes since all landscapers differ, there are a few tips to consider when developing a fertilizer program for your landscape:

Gardens and Flower Beds

Evenly apply product depending on crop and soil analysis. Work into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Once plants are established apply additional fertilizer based on County Extension Service recommendations. Apply fertilizer evenly and do not apply fertilizer directly to plant foliage or stems. Water in after application. Always read and follow all label instructions for rate of application.

WATER! Watering your plants is crucial to the maintenance and sustainability of your landscape, especially right after installation and throughout its first full growing season. Since landscapes differ, there can be many different rules to watering. However, here are some general recommendations and tips to consider:

Plant Watering Recommendations

Check plants weekly from Spring to Fall (March 1st – November 30th) for signs of lack of water. NOTE: Physical signs your plant needs water include: leaves wilting and drooping, slowed growth, reduced plant production (fewer plant buds, sprouts or fruit), as well as plant damage (leaves will die and drop off plant).
Don’t over water. NOTE: Signs of over watering include: wet soil but wilting plant, brown leaves, edema, yellow falling leaves, new growth falling from plants and root rot.
Touch and feel the soil around plants. If the soil is dry to the touch it needs water, if its damp, your plant is okay.
If rainfall is insufficient, supply supplement water.

Trees, Shrubs and Ornamental Watering Recommendations

Check new plants weekly for signs of over or under watering.
After the plants 1st year, established plants should be watered every 3-4 weeks from June-September.
Place hose at the base of plant trunks, allowing for a slow flow of water to saturate the entire root zone.
If rainfall is insufficient, supply supplement water.

MULCH

Mulching around your landscape installations prove to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Mulch around plants helps to:

Aid in Weed Control
Supply nutrients to the soil after it decomposes
Conserve soil moisture
Limit soil temperature fluctuation by insulating the root zone
Allow more water to penetrate soil by preventing run-off

PRUNE

Don’t worry, pruning is not destructive and won’t kill your plants; it’s a necessary part of landscape care that will preserve the health of your plants. When left to their own, overtime, plants will put out too much growth, resulting in dense foliage that doesn’t allow it to dry out, making it more prone to disease. The difficult part is knowing how each of your plants should be pruned.

Pruning Recommendations From Passiglia’s Nursery & Garden Center

Flowering Deciduous Trees and Shrubs should be pruned immediately after flowering.
Non-Flowering Deciduous Trees and Shrubs ideally should be done during the dormant season. However, pruning may be done anytime the wood is not frozen.
Evergreens may be pruned just after new growth is completed, usually in late spring or early summer.
Broadleaf Evergreens (Rhododendrons and Azaleas) need to have faded flowers pinched off (deadheading). Be careful not to pinch off next year’s buds along with faded flowers.
Whenever a stem or branch is dead or damaged.

For more information on our Product Catalog, Click Here .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.passiglia.com/gc_plant_care_tips.htm

http://www.greenviewfertilizer.com/articles/choosing-plant-fertilizer/

http://www.teleflora.com/blog/are-you-sure-that-plant-needs-water-5-signs-of-overwatering/

https://www.miraclegro.com/smg/goART3/Howto/how-to-feed-trees-shrubs-%26-ornamentals-trees-shrubs-landscaping-miracle-gro/29500032/7400004/27000004/

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/signs-lack-water-plants-39198.html

https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/fertilizing-trees-shrubs

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/testing-soil.htm

https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/trees-shrubs/tree-fertilization-guide/

http://www.greenviewfertilizer.com/articles/to-trim-or-not-to-trim/

SOIL MANAGEMENT

Mon, 31 Jul 2017 04:00:00 GMT

WHY THE HEALTH AND LIFE OF YOUR LAWN DEPENDS ON IT

Did you know that the health of your plants and lawn are almost completely dependent on the condition of your soil? The success of your lawn’s health and durability is directly related to the quality of the soil it grows in. If your soil is in poor health, your lawn will suffer as well. Soil quality is vital to the appearance and strength of your lawn, the fight against weeds, and the protection against insects and disease. But in order to improve or optimize the quality of your soil, you must first understand it and then learn how to properly maintain it. No two soils are created the same; environmental factors like precipitation, region and biological activity affect its texture and structure. Gaining an understanding of your soil will help you decide on the best treatment option to take in order to improve its quality, leading to strong, lush, healthy and beautiful green plants and lawns.

SOIL TEXTURE

The texture of the soil plays a crucial role in soil health because its characteristics greatly affect plant and lawn growth. Soil texture indicates the three different sizes of soil particles: sand, silt, or clay, and how fine or coarse they are. Texture influences the way water and air is able to penetrate the soil, the availability of nutrients to the plant, the ease of which soil can be worked or tilled as well as water retention.

TYPES OF SOIL TEXTURES

Sand: Soil with the largest mineral particles. Sand particles create large pore spaces that help improve aeration and water drainage. Soil with a high percentage of sand will generally be well drained but will lack the ability to retain key nutrients, impacting soil fertility.
Silt: Soil with mid-sized soil particles. Silt is an ideal soil type to have for its water retention abilities and soil fertility characteristics.
Clay: Soil with the smallest mineral size. Although it can retain moisture well, clay soil creates very small pore spaces, causing poor water drainage and aeration. Clay also compacts easily, making it difficult for plant roots to grow.

SOIL STRUCTURE Soil structure refers to the arrangement and combination of soil particles (peds) into aggregates, or clusters of various shapes and sizes that are bound together by physical, chemical and biological processes (fungal activity, tilling, freezing, thawing, wetting, drying, and by plant root growth). Aggregates that are naturally formed in soil are known as peds while the clumps formed from tilling and working the soil are called clods. Like soil texture, the structure of soil is important because it affects:

Water and Air Flow through Soil
Nutrient Availability for Plant Uptake
Root growth
Sustaining Biological Diversity, Activity and Productivity
Filtering of Organic and Inorganic Materials
Erosion Prevention
Compaction Prevention
Runoff Prevention of Fertilizers, Pesticides and Other Pollutants into Waterways

The size, shape and strength of aggregates determine the spaces between them (aggregates) called pores. Pore structure affects how easily roots, water and air move through soil. Pore spaces that have a range of sizes, including both large pores between aggregates and small pores within the aggregates, allow for more water, air and nutrient movement, better root growth, water retention as well as passageways for microorganisms. For example, sandy soils have low aggregation so roots and water move readily through soil, while clay soil has high aggregation, making it a little more challenging for water and roots to move through soil.

SOIL QUALITY

Understanding and monitoring soil texture and structure are important steps into managing soil quality. Soils are complex, diverse and have the potential to be greatly altered to improve your plant or lawns growing environment. By focusing on feeding your soil, you can enhance your plant/lawn health and durability. The best way to monitor your soil is to conduct a soil test to determine soil fertility, pH, and composition.

NOTE: You can pick up a soil test kit at your local home and garden store or you can check with your local cooperative extension office to see if they do soil testing.

HOW TO IMPROVE SOIL QUALITY

Once you make an assessment of the lawn’s soil and its conditions, you can decide what efforts you can make to enhance the quality of your lawns growing environment. Beneficial improvements you can add to your lawn care routine to help manage soil quality include:

Aeration: Aeration helps manage soil that can be easily compacted. Compaction inhibits root growth, water availability and air flow. This also allows earthworms and other microorganisms to roam freely, keeping soil healthy and fertile.
Adopt a Lawn Care Program: Add additional nutrients to your soil with fertilizers. Refer to your soil test for appropriate recommendations for your soil. Read all product label instructions for proper rate of application and timing.
Apply a Soil Amendment: Soil amendments have the ability to enhance a soil’s structure, water retention, permeability and drainage properties as well as balancing its chemical properties (pH and nutrient availability status).
Introduce Microbes: Microbes help to improve soil structure by stabilizing soil aggregates as well as turn organic matter into nutrients plants can absorb like nitrogen, phosphorus , potassium, oxygen, hydrogen and other essential minerals needed for plant growth.
Minimizing Lawn Traffic: This includes both foot and vehicle traffic. Heavy foot traffic and vehicles driving or parking on grass (including mowers) can cause compaction. Refrain from allowing vehicles on your lawn and try to use designated walkways when possible. TIP: Although mowers can cause your lawns soil to compact, try to vary your mowing patterns in order to slow compaction.
Till Area: Tilling you soil is great for starting new lawns or lawn renovations because it breaks up hard, dense subsoil, clods, and soil crust. Tilling will also help level your lawn, preventing water from puddling by promoting proper drainage. TIP: Rototillers are great for areas that are too large or hard to dig. Never till when your soil is wet.

For more information on our Soil Amendments, Click Here .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.carlisle.k12.ky.us/userfiles/1044/Classes/6685/040070.pdf

ftp://ftp.fao.org/fi/cdrom/fao_training/fao_training/general/x6706e/x6706e06.htm

http://www.deeproot.com/blog/blog-entries/what-is-soil-structure-and-why-is-it-important

https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_052820.pdf

http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/nvswcd/youyourland/soil.htm

http://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/understanding-your-report/lawn-garden-and-landscape-plants

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/professional-turf

https://www.rodalesorganiclife.com/garden/10-easy-soil-tests

Weed Alert: Don’t Let WILD VIOLETS’ Beauty Fool You; It’s One of the MOST DIFFICULT Weeds to ELIMINATE!

Sat, 29 Jul 2017 04:00:00 GMT

ALERT! Have you been seeing purple pedals appearing around your lawn recently? We’ve all had those weeds that you’re tempted to keep around because of their beauty, but don’t be fooled by the innocent looks of the invasive Wild Violet. If left untreated, the Wild Violet can take root and become one of your turfs biggest predators. Although the Wild Violet wears a mask of beauty, once established, this weed will be invading your lawn for years…and years…and years. Break the cycle and cut your ties with the Wild Violet weed before its too late. Discovering how to identify it, manage it and eliminate it today.

TYPE Wild Violet is a winter annual or perennial broadleaf weed that typically emerges in early spring and persists through the summer. It is particularly hardy, and tends to last an average of two growing seasons. This weed grows in clumps, with unchecked foliar growth topping out around 4-6 inches. Wild violet has a well-developed taproot which makes it more resistant to conventional herbicides than other common turf weeds.

HOW TO IDENTITY

Wild Violet consists of a network of rhizomes (horizontal running stems below the soil surface) that produce small, heart-shaped leaves with a shiny/waxy cuticle. Named after their flower’s intense violet color, its flowers can also be white or yellow. Each flower consists of 5 petals, and when fanned out, is roughly the same size as each leaf. These plants prefer cooler, shady habitats and are commonly found invading turf near forest and garden borders.

WHERE IT GROW

Wild violet is most commonly found on forest floors which receive filtered sunlight, but is well adapted to a variety of turf climates. These plants prefer cooler, shady habitats and usually persist in areas where managed turf meets a forest line, tree line, or garden border.

GROWING SEASON

With leaves emerging as early as March, flowers typically emerge by mid-May and continue blooming throughout the summer. Its well established tap root and waxy cuticle help defend against late spring frosts.

HOW TO MANAGE

Wild violet typically takes several growing seasons to establish, and once it does, it is one of the most difficult weeds to eliminate. While pre-emergent control is effective against germinating seeds, post-emergent control is necessary to eliminate well-established patches of these weeds. Wild violet is particularly resistant to single applications of foliar herbicides due to its thick, waxy cuticle, therefore multiple applications may be necessary to kill it. The use of ‘spreader sticker’ products may enhance the herbicide’s ability to adhere to the leaves. It has been well established that while spring and summer herbicide applications will kill the leaves, the plant will simply grow back again the following spring. Because of its well-established tap root and complex rhizome network, the best time to apply herbicides is late summer/early fall, when the plant is transporting sugars from the leaves to the roots. A number of broad spectrum post-emergent herbicides in conjunction with multiple timely applications are effective against wild violet.

Overall, the best prevention method for wild violet and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization , soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/violet/kill-wild-violets.htm

http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/weeds/wild-violet

http://byf.unl.edu/wild-violet-control

TICK ALERT 3.0: Ticks Bites Happen! Know How to Properly Remove Them

Wed, 19 Jul 2017 04:00:00 GMT

Ticks bites can happen to everyone: animals, landscape professionals, your child and even YOU! Check out University of Manitoba's video on the proper tick removed technique.

After removing a tick, DO NOT DISPOSE of it in case you become sick a few weeks later. This will give your doctors something to test if you do become infected in order to narrow down causes and get you feeling better.

HOW TO SAFELY KEEP A TICK FOR POTENTIAL TESTING LATER

Submerse the tick alcohol to kill it, then place it in a sealed bag/container, wrapping it tightly in tape. Never crush a tick with your fingers to kill it.

HOW TO AVOID TICK BITES

Cover as much of your body as possible when working or playing in grassy or wooded areas. Wear a hat, a long-sleeved shirt, and long pants with the legs tucked into your socks. Keep in mind that it is easier to spot ticks on light-colored clothes
Use insect repellents, such as products with DEET
Protect Your Lawn with proper lawn care techniques

HOW TO CHECK FOR TICKS

After spending time outside near potential tick environments, take a shower and thoroughly inspect yourself, including your groin, head, and underarms. Seek help and have someone check your back and neck. Use a fine- toothed comb in your hair or have someone check your scalp.
If you find or suspect ticks on clothing, put your clothes in a hot dryer or hang them out in the sun on a hot day for at least 15 minutes. The heat can kill the ticks.
NOTE: Inspect for ticks on any lawn care equipment, camping gear or other items you may have used while outdoors because ticks can be on them as well.
If your children like to play outside, check them daily for ticks, especially during the summer months.
NOTE: Ticks are not very large and can sometimes be mistaken for a scab. Be thorough in you tick search.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27McsguL2Og

http://www.webmd.com/first-aid/tc/how-to-remove-a-tick-overview#1

https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/removing_a_tick.html

Photos:

California Department of Public Health

The Turf[TECH]Report - How Gypsum Impacts Soil Chemistry

Thu, 29 Jun 2017 04:00:00 GMT

The use of gypsum as a soil amendment has been around for more than 250 years due to its many characteristics that help soil chemistry. Soil amendments , like gypsum, are undervalued in comparison to fertilizer usage, but the bottom line is it will not matter the amount of fertilizer applied to a lawn, the plants will not be able to access key nutrients essential for growth if the soil is compacted or the chemistry is compromised. But why gypsum? Let’s take a look into what gypsum is and its benefits to soil as well as when and why applying it to your lawn can improve turf health, appearance and the efficiency of nutrient uptake.

BUT WAIT! WHAT IS GYPSUM?

Pelletized Gypsum (calcium sulfate) removes sodium in soil and replaces it with calcium and sulfur, which are essential macronutrients not typically applied during fertilization which help boost plant health. Gypsum works great at loosening compact clay soil by pulling particles together creating porous spaces for air, water and plant roots. Gypsum also increases water storage and reduces erosion. This amendment is great for any soil type since it will improve soil structure while not altering pH. Gypsum is a moderately, soluble source, that performs in all three categories of soil treatment: a conditioner, a nutrient provider and an amendment.

TIP: Gypsum is a perfect soil amendment to use against salt damage from winter.

Conditioner

Gypsum improves compacted soil by breaking it up, increasing water infiltration rates, reducing erosion losses of important plant nutrients as well as soluble phosphorus water run-off.

Nutrient provider

No, gypsum is not a true fertilizer that provides needed N-P-K levels for plants, but rather helps plants by introducing calcium and sulfur, essential macronutrients not typically applied during normal fertilization methods, to help soil perform better by enhancing nutrient availability and improving soil structure. Gypsum also improves utilization of calcium, magnesium, potassium and other cations difficult to consume from the soil.

Amendment

Gypsum amends soil aggregation by preventing dispersion of soil particles, reducing surface crust formation and compaction; promoting deep rooting and seeding emergence as well as amending sodic soil reclamation.

WHY APPLY GYPSUM?

Fertilizing is just not enough when preparing and managing a lawn’s health. Although fertilizer helps put needed macronutrients like Nitrogen , Phosphorus and Potassium back into soil for plant uptake, soil amendments like gypsum are necessary to make the nutrients you apply available to the plant as well as adding critical macronutrients to your soil.

BENEFITS OF GYPSUM

Replenishes calcium and sulfur which are essential macronutrients not typically applied during fertilization
Can be used on all soil types, improves soil structure but will not alter pH
Reduces compacted clay soils allowing nutrients and water to be accessible to the plant
Removes sodium (salt toxicity, great for ice melt damage and coastal areas)
Assists in temperature and drought hardiness
Increases water storage and reduces erosion

HOW DO I KNOW I NEED GYPSUM?

If your soil is compacted, deficient in calcium and sulfur, or suffering from salt toxicity, gypsum is the solution for you. A soil test is recommended in order to better understand macronutrient deficiencies, base saturation levels (percentage of nutrient holding sites occupied by cation ), as well as, soil salt toxicity and overall soil chemistry. Testing the soil is also helpful when applying gypsum applications in order to determine appropriate rates of application. Review all label instruction before applying.

NOTE: When looking at soil test results, you want the soil’s target saturation levels for the macronutrients Calcium to be: 70-80% and for Magnesium to be: 10-13%.

WHEN CAN I APPLY IT?

Since Gypsum can be used on any soil type because it does not alter the soil pH level, you don’t have to balance your pH level before applying. Also, since Gypsum is not a fertilizer, it can be used before or after a fertilizer application, anytime of the season.

WHAT PRODUCT SHOULD I USE?

TurfCare™ has a great gypsum product that gets the results you need and more! They offer an enhanced pelletized Gypsum product powered by AMP-XC™ with Humic and Iron. This enhanced product includes not only Gypsum, but also a protein hydrolysate (AMP-XC™), concentrated organic materials (Humic) and the most important element involved in greening (Iron). This powerful combination of ingredients activates the benefits of gypsum along with several beneficial biological and environmental responses in the plant and soil and greatly improves the health and lush green appearance of turf.

JARGON

Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC): The measurement of the soil’s ability to hold positively charged ions, influencing soil structure stability, nutrient availability, soil pH and reaction to fertilizers as well as other ameliorants.
Sodicity: the amount of sodium held in a soil; sodium is a cation (positive ion) that is held loosely on clay particles in soil. When sodium makes up more than about 5% of all cations bound to clay particles, structural problems begin to occur, and the soil is said to be sodic (Chapter D5. Sodic soil management, nsw.gov)

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.usagypsum.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/AMI-tech-general.pdf

http://www.gypsoil.com/news-and-events/gypsum-and-lime

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/127278/Sodic-soil-management.pdf

https://www.southlandorganics.com/blogs/news/17989176-what-is-soil-conditioner

https://www.fertilesoilsolutions.com/soilwater-science/the-role-of-gypsum-in-agriculture/

http://www.cmtmi.com/gypsum.asp

Chen, Liming, David Kost, and Warren A. Dick. “Gypsum as an Agricultural Amendment.” The Ohio State University Extension Bulletin 945 (2011). pp. 1464-1470.

https://fabe.osu.edu/sites/fabe/files/imce/files/Soybean/Gypsum%20Bulletin.pdf

Sending Our Love to Orlando

Thu, 15 Jun 2017 04:00:00 GMT

LOVE CONQUERS HATE

As today marks the one year anniversary of the tragic Pulse Night Club shooting, members of the Orlando community come together to pay tribute to the 49 victims.

TurfCare™ sends our love to Orlando today as we remember the 49 victims from the tragic shooting one year ago today. Our thoughts & prayers go out to the family and friends of lost loved ones.

For full stories about the vigil and memorial services, check out KTLA or ABC News.

Tick Alert 2.0 - 10 IMPORTANT TIPS to Keep Your Family & Lawn Safe from Ticks this Season!

Fri, 09 Jun 2017 04:00:00 GMT

With rising summer temperatures and mild winters, the dangerous tick is growing in population in many different regions. Although ticks don’t pose a direct threat to the overall health of your turf, it does threaten the potential wellbeing of your family, friends, pets and you as everyone enjoys your lawn this season! These pests hide in lawns and cause potential health risks like skin irritation, fever, aches & pains, rashes and diseases like Lyme disease, southern tick-associated rash illness (STARI), Rocky Mountain spotted fever (RMSF), ehrlichiosis, and tularemia as well as, although rare, the deadly Powassan virus (often carried by blacklegged ticks) or paralysis. It’s important to understand that with ticks’ populations on the rise, there is an increased risk of contracting these diseases. This may seem a little concerning but don’t fret; by following these 10 tips you can keep your family and lawn safe this season.

1. MOW RIGHT!

Mowing your lawn to the correct height will reduce the likeliness of tick infestation since they hide in longer grass. Proper mowing heights will also attract natural tick predators. NOTE: Be sure to research or consult a lawn care expert about the grass species in your area for mowing specifications in the heat of summer.

2. WATER WISELY

Water turf deeply and infrequently. Avoid overwatering. Ticks like moist areas and an overly watered lawn is an open invitation for invasion. For lawns with drainage issues, try aeration. A good rule of thumb is to give your lawn 1-1.5 inches of water a week (1 inch of water = 1 hour of sprinkling). How often you water varies on grass and soil types. If you are in unsure of the grass and soil types in your area, check with the Cooperative Extension or your local water authority office for help determining types and the recommended irrigation schedules for your area.

3. PROTECT YOUR LAWN & HOME WITH A CONTROL PRODUCT

Conventional insecticides can suppress ticks throughout its lifecycle; check the product’s label to ensure that this pest is controlled. The best time to treat your lawn for ticks is during late spring-early summer. A single application of a control product will manage summer tick season. Review all label instructions of the insecticide purchased for proper directions of use.

NOTE: If you didn’t treat for ticks in Spring, an application can be applied in early Fall to control adults. Be aware of the label instructions for duration of control if you plan to apply in Spring.

List of professional insecticides known to control ticks

Allectus® (Imidacloprid and Bifenthrin)
Imi-Lambda® (Imidacloprid and Lambda-cyhalothrin)
NOTE: Listed technologies are proven to work on tick infestation problems. Not all insecticides that target ticks are listed here; there are other options out there, be sure to do your research and read label instructions before using any insecticide.

4. A NEAT YARD IS KEY!

Keeping the yard clean from debris like piles of lumber, brick, stone and wood, brush, excessive leaf litter, and tall weeds throughout the season helps to eliminate potential habitats for ticks to reproduce and hide.

5. REDUCE WILDLIFE

Ticks favor warm-blooded urban wildlife like squirrels, mice, rabbits, feral cats, deer, raccoons and skunks. If you frequently receive visits from wildlife like this, reduce your yard’s appeal by seeking out excessive trash that animals may get into, remove birdfeeders and consider the vegetation in gardens these animals may be feeding on. Never allow wildlife to make a home around decks, sheds, barns, or other potentially welcoming areas around the property.

NOTE: If skunks are seen prowling around your lawn, it may be a sign you have a grub infestation as well.

6. CREATE A SAFE ZONE

If woods are located near your property, create a barrier that limits tick migration by removing leaf litter, weeds and brush.

7. DON’T WELCOME TICKS INSIDE YOUR HOME

Protect ticks from getting into your home by forming roughly a 6-inch wide clean area around your home by picking up brush, leaf litter and eliminating weeds to remove potential hiding places.

8. INSPECT PETS’ HANGOUTS

Ticks enjoy latching onto pets which can cause the pest to hitch a ride indoors. Check and treat pet areas, especially in shady, cool spots for ticks. Consider putting down cedar mulch in these areas because it naturally repels these pests.

9. WELCOME NATURAL PREDATORS AND NATIVE PLANTS!

Mowing your lawn to the correct height and adopting a continuous lawn care program of fertilization, control products and soil amendments, proper irrigation, aeration and thatch management can help attract natural predators to ticks as well as encouraging native plant growth for a healthy and balance lawn that will naturally prevent ticks.

10. WELCOME THE SUNSHINE!

Ticks love shady, moist areas. Introduce more sunshine into a landscape by pruning trees and shrubs.

NOTE: It's important to understand that a tick bite can happen to anyone. By following these steps you will significantly decrease your family's and your chances of receiving a tick bite. If you do discover a tick on yourself or someone else, its important to understand how to properly and safely remove them. CLICK HERE for more tips on how to check for and remove ticks from a body.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/10-easy-ways-to-rid-your-lawn-of-fleas-and-ticks

https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/symptoms.html

http://www.ct.gov/caes/lib/caes/documents/publications/fact_sheets/managingticks05.pdf

Summer Lawn Care Check List

Tue, 06 Jun 2017 04:00:00 GMT

Summer is right around the corner and there are certain lawn care tasks to consider to help manage a summer stressed lawn, the longevity of equipment and abundant wear and tear on turf throughout the season. Check off these easy steps to ensure a healthy & beautiful lawn that is strong enough to beat the toughest summer!

For more information on the check list above, check out these articles:

• How to Mowing In the Heat of Summer

• The Turf[TECH]Report - Understanding Herbicides

• The Turf[TECH]Report - What's the Buzz on Insecticides?

• Fertilization & Irrigation

• Quick-Release VS. Slow Release Nitrogen in Fertilizers

• Lime

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

TICK ALERT: How To Protect Your Lawn & Family from the Dangerous Tick

Tue, 06 Jun 2017 04:00:00 GMT

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Ticks are arthropods, meaning they’re invertebrates that have jointed legs and external skeletons. Depending on a tick’s stage in its lifecycle, it can be seen with having 6 legs (larva) or 8 legs(Nymph-Adult). Often times people confusion ticks with being spiders or insects but the real truth is, they're actually a part of a group called mites. These invasive mites are external parasites that latch onto the skin of their hosts with their mouthparts to feed. Categorizing into two groups, ticks can be either ‘hard’ or ‘soft’, hard ticks have protective plates on their backs while soft ticks do not. Ticks with hard backs are restricted in the amount of blood they can consume in one eating, requiring days of attachment to be fully fed while ‘soft’ ticks have a leathery appearance, lacking the hard shield but giving them the opportunity to engorge quicker (in some cases, soft ticks can be fully fed in a matter of minutes).

On top of the two categories, there are multiple different species of ticks throughout the world that can be identified and classified accordingly; to name some: Blacklegged ticks (deer tick), American dog ticks, Brown dog ticks, Lone Star ticks, Rocky Mountain Wood ticks and more. Although these species are different, they have similarities to watch for. It’s important to understand that location, as well as the time of year will determine which tick species is most common in your area. When identifying an unfed tick, some important characteristics to look for are its shield known as the Scutum. The Scutum is located right behind the mouthparts (can be mistaken as the head) of the tick; female adult ticks have a smaller Scutum than males. Male’s Scutum often cover their entire back. Another characteristic to help identify a tick and the species is to look at the festoons of the insect. According to The University of Rhode Island’s TickEncounter Resource Center, “The festoons are small areas separated by short groves on the back margin of the tick.”

NOTE: Blacklegged ticks are the only species that lack festoons.

INFESTATION SEASON

A tick’s life cycle is key to understanding when they are most active. Ticks persist mainly throughout the growing season and remain active as long as the temperature remains above freezing (the ground temperature needs to be above 45 degrees Fahrenheit for them to become active during winter). During Mid-March to May the ambient temperature is warming, allowing for tick embryos to develop and hatch into the larva stage. During this time, tick larva will seek a host (a small mammal, rodent or bird) to receive its first blood meal to help it develop into a nymph. Once ticks enter into the nymph stage typically starting in April and continuing into September they are the most active and become most troublesome for larger mammals, including humans. This development stage time varies from species to species but once in the nymph stage, ticks will once again need to engorge in a blood meal to begin the transformation to adulthood (different species may have multiple levels of nymph development prior to adulthood but still pose risks to the pets and people around you). From Mid-August to November nymphs are becoming adults. Adult ticks will also have to feed again, targeting large mammals during this time.

Check out The University of Rhode Island’s TickEncounter Resource Center Chart of the Lone Star Tick and Its Stages of Life .

HOW TO MANAGE Conventional insecticides can suppress ticks throughout its lifecycle; check the product’s label to ensure that this pest is controlled. The best time to treat your lawn for ticks is during late spring-early summer. A single application of a control product will manage summer tick season. Review all label instructions of the insecticide purchased for proper directions of use.

NOTE: If you didn’t treat for ticks in spring, an application can be applied in early fall to control adults. Be aware of the label instructions for duration of control if you plan to apply in spring.

List of professional insecticides known to control ticks:

Allectus® (Imidacloprid and Bifenthrin)
Imi-Lambda® (Imidacloprid and Lambda-cyhalothrin)

* Listed technologies are proven to work on tick infestation problems. Not all insecticides that target ticks are listed here; there are other options out there, be sure to do your research and read label instructions before using any insecticide.

HOW TO PREVENT

If you don’t currently have a tick problem, try preventative measures with best management practices including encouraging a healthy lawn by monitoring and maintaining a neutral soil pH , adopting a continuous lawn care program of fertilization and soil amendments to encourage native plants for appropriate ground cover, introduce proper irrigation , as well as mowing turf to healthy lengths .

Check out our Lawn Care Tips for more ways to Keep Your Family & Lawn Safe from Ticks this Season.

DID YOU KNOW?

Ticks can only crawl; they cannot jump or even fly. If you find a tick on your neck, it most likely crawled from a lower part of your body.
Each species of tick begins with the egg that is often deposited on the ground near the nest of its host.
Ticks do not just feed recklessly, they require a single blood meal to grow and transform into the different stages of their life cycle. That means depending on the tick species, a single tick may only feed up to three times during its life that can span from a matter of months or years.
Blacklegged ticks take 2-3 years to fully develop into adulthood but will feed only 3 times before it dies.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.tickencounter.org

https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/symptoms.html

http://www.ct.gov/caes/lib/caes/documents/publications/fact_sheets/managingticks05.pdf

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/10-easy-ways-to-rid-your-lawn-of-fleas-and-ticks

http://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2017/03/11/519518318/beyond-lyme-new-tick-borne-diseases-on-the-rise-in-u-s

http://www.wandtv.com/story/35500268/concern-of-uncommon-virus-rising-with-tick-population

https://identify.us.com/idmybug/ticks/tick-FAQS/what-are-ticks.html

https://www.health.ny.gov/publications/2825/

https://extension.umaine.edu/ipm/tickid/tick-biology/

https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/health-science/2016/07/22/a392067c-4f79-11e6-aa14-e0c1087f7583_story.html?utm_term=.cf8a37e53d61

Photos:

Photo Credit: NIAID | Flickr | Lone Star Tick Engorged

Chart Credit: The University of Rhode Island’s TickEncounter Resource Center

https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/life_cycle_and_hosts.html

Weed of the Week: Yellow Wood Sorrel

Mon, 05 Jun 2017 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Yellow wood sorrel or creeping sorrel is a part of the vast wood sorrel family. This weed is among the largest group of weeds, broadleaf perennials, and can range from 10-35cm high. Yellow wood sorrel’s root system is shallow but fibrous along the length of the pink rhizomes, or a continuously growing horizontal underground stem that puts out lateral shoots and adventitious roots at intervals.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Yellow wood sorrel can be observed when small, yellow flowers form with five petals, reaching 1-1.5 cm wide. The stems can be green to purple and branching form the base are alternating leaves that have long petioles. The leaves resemble three distinctly heart-shaped leaflets. Overtime, seeds form in erect capsules that when ready, explosively eject up to twelve feet away.

NOTE: Yellow wood Sorrel is often mistaken for black medic.

Wood Sorrel - Notice the heart-shaped leaflets

Black Medic

WHERE IT GROWS This weed prefers fertile, warm, moist soil as well as partial shade but are capable of growing under a wide range of conditions. This weed can be spotted in turf, lawns, gardens, fields, nurseries as well as other landscaped areas.

GROWING SEASON

Grows in the month of May-October

HOW TO MANAGE

For cases where a wood sorrel invasion is less severe, pull the weed out by hand. To correct an invasive infestation, use a post-emergence herbicide. Overall, the best prevention method for wood sorrel and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization , soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

DID YOU KNOW?

Wood sorrel’s is an edible weed. Its genus name, Oxalis, is derived from the Greek word meaning acid, because of its acidic taste.
There are roughly 850 wood sorrel species around the world, but about 20 species reside in North America. Among them that can be seen include the yellow wood sorrel, violet wood sorrel and redwood wood sorrel. NOTE: Although a post emergent or the hand pulling method can help conquer a wood sorrel issue, be sure to identify which wood sorrel species is invading your lawn in order to determine the best treatment. Check with your county extension agent to see if a certain wood sorrel species has been spotted in your area.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/lawns/lawn-weed-identification

http://www.ediblewildfood.com/wood-sorrel.aspx

https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/oxalis/corniculata/

https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=OXCO

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/creeping_woodsorrel.html

https://www.britannica.com/plant/Oxalis

Fertilization + Irrigation

Fri, 02 Jun 2017 04:00:00 GMT

HOW BOTH MUST WORK IN HARMONY TO ENSURE A BEAUTIFUL LAWN It’s no secret that irrigation and fertilization need to be paired together in order to maintain a healthy, beautiful lawn. It’s important to understand that these two programs need to work in harmony in order to optimize plant nutrient uptake and help sustain a healthy environment. So before you just go off and water a lawn this season, review these 7 steps to ensure you’re irrigating your turf grass to the fullest:

1. PH TEST SOIL AND WATER!

Soil testing the pH of your lawn is key to understanding the proper amount and type of fertilizer, control product or soil amendment you will need to manage a lush, healthy turf but it’s also crucial to pH test the water you’re applying to turf grass as well. If a lawn is experiencing consistent pH imbalances, even after applications of soil amendments, the pH of the water source being dispersed can be the culprit to the consistent imbalance in soil. If irrigation is too acidic or basic, it will affect the pH balance of the soil so be sure both soil and water pH are aligned.

2. LEARN THE SOIL TYPE OF THE AREA

Knowing whether turf grass soil in an area is clay, sand or silt will not only better your understanding of the amount of fertilizer, control product or soil amendment needed but it will also help you define the soil’s water holding capacity. For example, sandy soil can hold no more than 0.75 inches of water per foot of soil depth; if irrigation is exceeded in a sandy soil then nutrients mobile in the soil like nitrate-nitrogen can leach below the root system.

3. IRRIGATE TO THE SPECIFIC TURF GRASS OF THE AREA

Each species of turf grass has a different root zone (the volume of soil inhabited by the plant’s root system-EDIS, University of Florida IFAS Extension) and varies in water needs. Knowing the depth of the root zone will determine the maximum amount of water that can be applied when irrigating. Learn whether a lawn has cool- or warm-season turf grass to help establish the proper amount of water a plant needs as well as species root zone depth characteristics (the root zone will enlarge as turf grows). Contact your local extension office for help determining grass species.

4. UNDERSTAND YOUR IRRIGATION SYSTEM WATER APPLICATION RATES

Calibrating an irrigation system like a sprinkler, hose, or in-ground system is essential to correctly applying the proper amount of water a lawn needs. To measure the water applied over a set period of time, use uniform catch-cans like coffee or tuna cans, and spread them around the water zone of a lawn, scattering at random within the area (all catch cans need to be the same, if you’re using tuna cans, then all must be tuna cans). Turn on water for 15 minutes. After this time, turn off water, take a ruler and measure water in each catch-can. The more uniform the water, the better water application rate is present. Repeat for each different zone. For more information, check out University of Florida IRAS Extension’s article on How to Calibrate your Sprinkler System by L.E. Trenholm’s, J. Bryan Unruh’s and J.L. Cisar’s .

5. WATER WISELY!

Turf grass irrigation needs to change as seasons change. Summer stress will bring plants to reduced growth; fall and spring will bring heavier growth while winter brings turf dormancy. Just like you adjust a lawn care program around the change of seasons, it’s important to adjust the frequency of irrigation as well. Modifying irrigation will help encourage a deeper and stronger root system, utilize the fertilizer you apply more efficiently and help manage drought-stressed turf.

Try allowing your turf to tell you when it needs water by watching for these signs:

Folding of leaf blades: This is a natural response to a stressed plant from water loss. Watch for the turf leaf blades to begin curling lengthwise.
Mower Tire Tracks & Footprints Remaining Visible: When a lawn is drought-stressed, mowing tire tracks and footprints will remain visible long after they are made.
Blue-Gray color: This coloration is an indication of stressed lawn in need of water.
Plant Wilting: This can be seen in lawns under stress from drought.

6. LIGHTLY WATER FERTILIZER AFTER APPLICATION

The last thing you want is to lose all the hard work and money you put into treating your lawn. The best way to prevent unsightly burning of grass leaves or being washed away from a heavy rain is to lightly water immediately after an application in order to initiate absorption into the soil. Water wisely! This does not mean drenching; water until the fertilizer and soil become moist, roughly ¼ inch of water or 15 minutes.

7. DO NOT OVER WATER!

Over watering can lead to runoff of fertilizer, control products or soil amendments into ground water resources. Established lawns need roughly an inch of water per week throughout the growing season. One inch is equivalent to roughly an hour of watering from a sprinkler. Depending on your region, humidity may affect water supplementation. Southeast and northern regions, frequent to rain, may need less water while southwest regions may require an additional inch of water per week. If rain is forecasted within a 24-hour period, refrain from watering with an irrigation system or sprinkler.

Note: Irrigation systems must be correctly calibrated in order to adhere to the rough guideline of 1 hour = 1 inch. An irrigation system that is not calibrated may be over watering or under watering turf.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2013/07/essential-lawn-care-tips/index.htm

https://www.hunker.com/12507312/how-often-should-grass-be-watered-after-it-is-fertilized

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ss586

http://ufdc.ufl.edu/IR00003389/00001

Weed of the Week: Hairy Bittercress

Wed, 31 May 2017 04:00:00 GMT

GROWING SEASON:

Hairy bittercress prolifically sets seed in early spring when the soil is cool and moist, typically germinating in May through September. It can also withstand frost conditions so if not removed, can survive throughout winter and appear again in the spring.

NOTE: This weed can persists through winter and depending on this weeds life cycle stage, it can be seen to have a dull purplish look (cold, harsh winter) or a more green look (mild winter).

Hairy Bittercress Flowers Beginning to Blooming

HOW TO MANAGE The seeds are located in the flowering portion of the bittercress, so to avoid dispersion and infestation it is best to remove right away before it gets to this growth stage. You can remove by hand or garden tool but because the slightest disturbance can release and spread the seeds it may be best to apply a post-emergence herbicide when the weed is actually growing. It’s important to understand that for optimum post-emergent control, apply product to actively growing, immature weeds; more than one application may be needed. To fight this invasive weed before an infestation, apply a pre-emergent herbicide in late summer/early fall, prior to bittercress germination.

NOTE: If you apply a pre-emergent in fall, you’re unable to plant grass seed since pesticides inhibit seed germination, including new grass seed. For cases where the invasion is less severe, pull weed out by hand since taproots are weak and shallow. Overall, the best prevention method for hairy bittercress and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization , soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/lawns/lawn-weed-identification

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/hairy_bittercress_a_weed_to_watch_out_for

https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=782

http://marinmg.ucanr.edu/Marin_Master_Gardener_Help_Desk/Leaflet/d/

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/weeds/hairy-bittercress-control.htm

http://www.pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Cardamine+hirsuta

http://identifythatplant.com/hairy-bittercress-cardamine-hirsuta/

Photos:

Photo Credits: Andreas Rockstein | Flickr

Regional Lawn Care Programs

Wed, 31 May 2017 04:00:00 GMT

SCROLL DOWN TO SEE REGIONAL LAWN CARE PROGRAMS

Professionally Recommended LAWN CARE PROGRAMS to Help Your Lawn look HEALTHY and BEAUTIFUL All Season Long!

Looking for advice or simply just in need of an update for a TurfCare™ Lawn Care Program? Check out our professionally recommended Regional Lawn Care Programs.

Please note: We service these regions of the US: northeast, midwest and southeast. All Lawn Care Programs are based off a general application schedule in the specified region of US that we service. These suggested programs are for a broad range of states; check with your local distributor for the best products in your area. TurfCare™ products can be found at professional distributors in multiple different regions. Some products may not be available in certain areas due to product state regulations. Talk to your local professional lawn care distributor for further information about a competitive TCS Lawn Care Program in your area based off this chart. If you have an inquiry about a product or different product chemistry, talk to your distribution sales rep.

Click Here for more information on locating your local distributor to purchase/order recommended products.

FERTILIZING TIPS:

Wait 5-7 weeks between fertilizer & control product applications to avoid burning your lawn.
Sweep any product that lands in the driveway, sidewalk, or street back into your lawn.
Water in products after application to activate and reduce product loss due to volatilization.
Review all active ingredients on product label to determine if the blend is appropriate for your specific lawn type. Check with your local distributor for more information on grass type and proper product chemistries to use for your area.

NORTHEAST LAWN CARE PROGRAM

Download for Print: Northeast Lawn Care Program

NORTHERN MIDWEST LAWN CARE PROGRAM

Download for Print: Northern Midwest Lawn Care Program

SOUTHERN MIDWEST LAWN CARE PROGRAM

Download for Print: Southern Midwest Lawn Care Program

SOUTHEAST LAWN CARE PROGRAM

Download for Print: Southeast Lawn Care Program

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Weed of the Week: Common Chickweed

Wed, 24 May 2017 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Common chickweed is an invasive broadleaf winter annual that can produce several generations in a year, each weed flowering after 5 weeks of growth. Chickweed is capable of flowering throughout winter can produces around 2,500 reddish brown seeds. This weed can be seen to grow up to over 3-6 inches in the sun but can reach up to 18 inches in the shade. This weed forms a weak, shallow taproot that is fibrous.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Common chickweed can be identified by its low spreading, dense patches of plants. Stems are forked and have lines of hairs down each side of it. Leaves are roughly egg-shaped with a pointy tip and are mostly hairless. Chickweed leaves are light green in color, spaced evenly along stem and are opposite from one another. Small, flowers with roughly 10 deeply-cut white petals bloom in opens clusters at the end of the weeds stem.

WHERE IT GROWS

Common chickweed favors well-watered areas and thrives in soil with a neutral pH and is high in nitrogen. This weed can grow in a wide variety of soils and environmental conditions. In areas where there is little to no competition from turf grass, the common chickweed can produce roughly 800 seeds per plant. This can result in an infestation for many years to come (after 7-8 years only about 95% of the seed bank will be depleted).

NOTE: The good news is that the presence of this weed is an indication that your soil is rich with nutrients and this weed can be stopped with proper management practices.

 GROWING SEASON

Seeds being to germinate from late summer to early fall and continue to grow throughout winter into early spring.

HOW TO MANAGE

If a lawn is infested with chickweed use a post-emergence herbicide in spring when the weed is actually growing. It’s important to understand that for optimum post-emergent control, apply product to actively growing, immature weeds; more than one application may be needed. To fight this invasive weed before an infestation, apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early September, prior to chickweed germination.

NOTE: If you apply a pre-emergent in fall, you’re unable to plant grass seed since pesticides inhibit seed germination, including new grass seed. For cases where the invasion is less severe, pull weeds out by hand since taproots are weak and shallow. Overall, the best prevention method for chickweed and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization , soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you .

The Vital Role of Microbes

Fri, 05 May 2017 04:00:00 GMT

LEARN WHY YOU & YOUR LAWN'S LIFE DEPEND ON THEM! Beautiful lawns don’t just happen, a lot of support is required to maintain healthy turf. You’re probably thinking that the support comes from fertilizer applications , soil amendments and regular lawn care maintenance , but that’s not what I’m referring to. I’m referring to the tiny, hard working army known as microbes. Now, don’t get me wrong, fertilizing, applying soil amendments and doing regular lawn care maintenance like aeration, mowing and thatch management all help in the support of a healthy lawn, but without microbes assisting, none of those treatments would be as effective.

SO WHAT ARE MICROBES?

Microbes are very small forms of life, often times single celled organisms so tiny that you need a microscope to see them. Microbes include several different species like bacteria, fungi, algae and protozoa that exist in the soil, most abundantly found in the topsoil where food sources are plentiful.

Did you know? One teaspoon of healthy soil can contain more microbes than people on Earth!

WHAT DO MICROBES DO?

These organisms primary decompose organic matter but they also detoxify harmful chemicals, provide nitrogen to help plants grow, suppress disease organisms and produce nutrients that stimulate plant growth.

WHY ARE MICROBES IMPORTANT TO SOIL?

Microbes are important to the soil because they play a vital role in supporting plant and animal survival. The significance of microbes is complex but to put it simply, microbes eat, therefore plants and animals can eat too. You may remember this from your elementary school days, it’s called “The Food Web,” however, a more complex one. Many plants are unable to take up nutrients from the soil without the assistance of microbes. These small living organisms consume organic matter (dead plant residues) and through digestion, turn this matter into nutrients a plant can absorb like nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, oxygen, hydrogen and other essential minerals. Microbes also consume then convert the NPK and minerals applied to soil to make them available to plants. In addition, plants release carbohydrates (sugars) that microbes then “eat” which assists in the recycling of nutrients. Since microbes create the necessary environment to promote plant growth and health, they are essential to animal and human existence.

FIVE WAYS MICROBES IMPROVE YOUR SOIL

1. BREAK DOWN ORGANIC MATTER & NPK

Microbes are responsible for decomposing organic matter (wood chips, leaves, manures and other organic materials) and consuming nutrients like NPK, which through digestion create the necessary form of nutrients that a plant can absorb (nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium cycles).

2. RECYCLE NUTRIENTS

These organisms form a crucial role in mineralization; the process of returning nutrients to their mineral form. This process allows essential plant nutrients to become available in the soil.

3. FIX NITROGEN

Microbes have the ability to convert atmospheric nitrogen into nitrate, the form usable by plants. This process is known as biological nitrogen fixation.

4. RESPONSIBLE FOR CREATING HUMUS/HUMIC

Through microbe digestion of organic materials, they create Humus/Humic. Humus improves soil structure, helps retain soil moisture and is good for root penetration and development. This substance can remain in the soil for potentially a millennium.

5. CREATE SOIL STRUCTURE

Soil structure is important for successful plant growth. The basis of good soil structure incudes gums, polysaccharides and glycoproteins. Microbes secrete these three aggregates which glues soil minerals together.

HOW MICROBES CAN IMPROVE YOUR LAWN

Turf grass supports some of the largest microbial populations. If the population is imbalanced, nutrients would stay unavailable to the plant and lawn health would be compromised. This is because microbes are in charge of maintaining a prosperous environment for soil health and nutrient conversion, which is essential for plant survival.

Understanding microbial environments can unlock beneficial turf grass health. Elevating a harmonious balance of microbes can assist with nitrogen availability, as well as increasing the presence of other nutrients essential to plant growth. The unique interactions between turf plants and microbes collectively benefit a lawn’s nutrient cycle, soil aggregation, carbon-nitrogen levels, organic matter degradation as well as enhance root growth and development. Microbes are essential to turf survival, increasing their presence in the soil is sure to improve the appearance and overall health of your lawn.

Coming Soon! TurfCare™ has been developing an exciting microbial product, AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate that will soon be available to you! Keep your eyes open for the launch of AMP-XC™ Liquid Concentrate, a microbial product that is essential to your soil and plant health.

GLOSSARY

Biological nitrogen fixation (BNF): the term used for a process in which nitrogen gas (N2) from the Atmosphere is incorporated into the tissue of certain plants. Only a select group of plants is able to obtain N this way, with the help of soil microorganisms.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.holganix.com/blog/bid/62700/the-science-behind-holganix-soil-microbes-101

http://sesl.com.au/blog/the-role-of-soil-microorganisms/

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/1936/#b

http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Books/Building-Soils-for-Better-Crops-3rd-Edition/Text-Version/The-Living-Soil/Soil-Microorganisms

http://www.agriinfo.in/?page=topic&superid=5&topicid=136

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0ahUKEwjotPne69HTAhUBVyYKHVW4CbIQFgg7MAM&url=http%3A%2F%2Fanlscape.com.au%2FLiteratureRetrieve.aspx%3FID%3D66570&usg=AFQjCNFf6PAjmY8EqpPhXhODtPVm5Ewigw&sig2=Qx_oPL5Q2bFA1aD3XTwM3A

http://forages.oregonstate.edu/nfgc/eo/onlineforagecurriculum/instructormaterials/availabletopics/nitrogenfixation/definition

http://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/mitgc/article/2001133.pdf

Weed of the Week: Black Medic

Wed, 03 May 2017 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Black medic is a broadleaf annual or short-lived perennial weed that can range from 1-2' tall to 1' wide. Its seeds begin to germinate as soil begins to warm up in early spring and then continues to grow throughout the season. This weed forms a shallow taproot with small nodules.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Black medic is usually first spotted when small, round yellow flowers bloom with clusters clover-like leaves. The flowers eventually form into black seed pods while the stems become dark brown/black and prostrate, or woody. Toothed stipules are found at the petiole base and has alternating compound leaves with three leaflets that resemble a clover.

NOTE: Black medic is often mistaken for Yellow Wood Sorrel.

WHERE IT GROWS This weed grows in areas of poor, dry, compacted soil located in direct sunlight. This weed can often be found in areas of high foot traffic and near roadsides.

GROWING SEASON

In the months of April-October.

HOW TO MANAGE

If a lawn is infested with black medic, then this is a good indication that soil is compacted. To correct this infestation, aerate soil and use a post-emergence herbicide. For cases where the invasion is less severe, pull black medic out by hand but still aerate because odds are the soil is still compacted. Keep soil well-watered to prevent black medic from taking seed. Overall, the best prevention method for black medic and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization , soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

TIP: Mulching can help prevent black medic growth in gardens as well.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/lawns/lawn-weed-identification

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/weeds/black-medic-weed.htm

http://www.brilliantlawns.co.uk/lawn-weeds.html

Photos:

Photo Credit: Simon | Flick

Photo Credit: Wendell Smith | Flickr

A Field Guide for Common Lawn Weeds

Tue, 02 May 2017 04:00:00 GMT

When a lawn is at risk of turf weed invasions, it's important to identify the culprit. This quick chart will provide an overview of common lawn weeds to help determine if one of these pest species are causing damage to turf.

Wonder what's that weed invading your turf/lawn and how to eliminate? Check out this field guide for common lawn invaders and start getting rid of those weeds the professional way.

Download TurfCare™ Field Guide for Common Lawn Weeds HERE .

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Photos:

Black Medic: Simon | Flickr

Broadleaf Plantain: 101422164.jpg.rendition.largest. N.d. Better Homes and Gardens Weed Identification Guide. Web. 15 June 2016.

White Clover: 101422209.jpg.rendition.largest. N.d. Better Homes and Gardens Weed Identification Guide. Web. 1 June 2016.

Creeping Charlie (Ivy): 101422170.jpg.rendition.largest.N.d. Better Homes and Gardens Weed Identification Guide. Web. 15 June 2016.

Dandelion: Neil Turner | Flickr

Hairy Bittercress: Kris Lord | Flickr

Spurge: Forest and Kim Starr | Flickr

Speedwell: Arria Belli | Flickr

Prostrate Knotweed: NY State IPM Program at Cornell University | Flickr

Wild Violet: Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources | Flickr

Yellow Wood Sorrel: Harry Rose | Flickr

Weed of the Week: Goosegrass

Mon, 01 May 2017 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Goosegrass is among the weed group known as grassy summer annual weeds. Goosegrass grows up to 2ft tall when erect and ½-2ft wide when mature. This weed is a widespread species that can tolerate a broad range of environment changes and conditions. The weed forms around one central taproot that has a fibrous root system.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Goosegrass, also known as wiregrass, can be identified by its pale green mat-like clumped stems that appear to be entirely flattened. This weed grows in low rosettes and the stems are fleshy at the base. The weed’s leaves are almost hairless except for long hairs on the bases of the blades, sheaths, and collars. The sheaths, or the area where grass leaves wrap around the stem, are whitish, flattened and open near the base of the collar (the outer side of the leaf where the blade and sheath meet). When goosegrass flowers (July - October) it forms into a seed head with three-seven spikes that produce tiny, reddish brown seeds.

NOTE: A single goosegrass weed can produce 50,000 seeds! Failure to control goosegrass can result in an infestation difficult to manage.

WHERE IT GROWS

This weed is normally located in areas or compact soil or of heavy wear. It can tolerate close mowing heights, as low as 0.125 inches, as well as wet or dry soil. This is a common weed found in cool-season turfs

GROWING SEASON

Mid- spring or when soil temperatures are between 55°- 60°F. Seeds will continue germinating throughout summer. Plants will be killed by first frost.

HOW TO MANAGE

Since goosegrass is a highly invasive weed, it’s better to solve the problem before it gets out of hand with a pre-emergent herbicide . Goosegrass has a centralized root system, and if the infestation is caught in its early stages, hand pulling can be used for management with the use of an appropriate weeding tool. Overall, the best prevention method for goosegrass and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization , soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

DID YOU KNOW?

Even though goosegrass has a similar life cycle to crabgrass, its seeds germinate four to six weeks later than crabgrass, making it more difficult to tame.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/lawns/lawn-weed-identification

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/goosegrass.html

http://caes2.caes.uga.edu/commodities/turfgrass/georgiaturf/Turfgras/1130_DiagramParts.htm

https://www.backedbybayer.com/~/media/BackedByBayer/Resource%20Library/White%20Paper/Bayer%20Solutions%20-%20Crab%20Goosegrass%20-%20Cool.ashx

http://www.tennesseeturfgrassweeds.org/Lists/Fact%20Sheets/Attachments/4/w170updated2015.pdf

Lawn KILLER BUG! - How to CONTROL the HARMFUL European Crane Fly Larvae

Mon, 27 Mar 2017 04:00:00 GMT

HOW TO IDENTIFY European crane flies, or, Tipula paludosa, are insects that are not native to the United States but became invasive in the late 1900’s. They are often mistaken for large mosquitos but they cannot bite or sting. These insects are a threat to turf because the larvae, known as leatherjackets, feed on grass shoots during the evening and the roots during the heat of the day. The European crane fly’s larval stage is the longest life cycle of this pest, lasting approximately 10 months, which means an infestation can greatly affect lawn turf. The larvae (Leatherjackets) have thick, grayish colored skin and a head capsule. They hatch in late summer where they continue to feed on grass roots throughout the winter and into the following spring until they reach full maturity (Leatherjackets can grow to exceed 1 inch in size). Come May-June, the leatherjackets create cocoons and become pupae and will remain in this stage until the months July-August where the pupae emerge as an adult European crane fly. Within 24 hours after growing into adulthood, these pests swarm, breed, and die after laying anywhere between 200-500 eggs in grass.

NOTE: A similar insect, the Native crane fly does not cause damage to turf grass like the European crane fly does. It is not easy to determine the difference between the crane fly species so be sure to check with your county cooperative extension agent in order to establish if European crane flies have been detected in the area.

PREFERRED ENVIRONMENT European crane flies are found in larger numbers in turf that has been poorly established and maintained, especially lawns with excessive thatch buildup since larvae prefer to stay in the turf’s “crown” layer of thatch. European crane flies prefer moist soil and require mild, winter temperatures and cool summers with an average rainfall of at least 24 inches.

INFESTATION SEASON

Although European crane flies have a life cycle of about a year, the main infestation occurs once larva hatches, starting in mid-summer through the winter and then into the following spring.

DAMAGE CAUSED

Damage is really caused by the leatherjackets (European crane fly’s larvae), as they feed on grass shoots and roots. This eventually will turn your lawn yellow or brown and can cause bare spots. The highest observed damage time is in late spring, right before leatherjackets become pupae. If left untreated, turf may eventually die.

ARE EUROPEAN CRANE FLIES THE PROBLEM?

To determine if the number of European crane flies have become invasive, in late March to early April, use a cup cutter or something similar (remove both ends of a one-gallon tin can, like a coffee container) or a sharp spade to dig up roughly 6x6 inch squares that are roughly 1 to 2 inches deep. Repeat this step in 4 to 5 other locations that are scattered throughout the lawn. Place each of these samples into a bucket of mild, soapy water. This will cause leatherjackets to float to the top. Count the number of larvae floating on the surface and multiply it by 4 to give the number of larvae per square foot. If you have a number greater than 25 larvae per square feet, European crane flies are beginning to infest a lawn and some damage can be seen; a control method is recommended. At 45 or more crane fly larvae per square foot, damage to turf can be noticed because the lawn has been fully infested and essential measures need to be taken in order to control the larvae population and restore a lawn.

HOW TO MANAGE

Conventional insecticides can suppress the European crane fly larvae throughout its lifecycle; check the product’s label to ensure this pest is controlled. The best time to treat your lawn with a control product for this pest is during the spring, usually mid-April when the European crane fly larvae are most active. Sample the area to determine the scope of the infestation. Review all label instructions of the insecticide purchased before applying.

List of professional insecticides known to control the European crane fly larvae:

Allectus® (Imidacloprid and Bifenthrin)
Imi-Lambda® (Imidacloprid and Lambda-cyhalothrin)
ACELEPRYN® (Chlorantraniliprole)
Merit® (Imidacloprid)

If you don’t currently have a European crane fly larvae problem, try preventative measures with best management practices including, encouraging a healthy lawn by monitoring and maintaining a neutral soil pH, adopting a continuous lawn care program of fertilization and soil amendments , proper irrigation , aeration and thatch management , as well as mowing turf to healthy lengths.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.fws.gov/alaska/fisheries/contaminants/pdf/cranefly300.PDF

https://blog.nutrilawn.com/getting-rid-of-the-worst-lawn-pests

http://www.northeastipm.org/bmps-for-school-ipm/pests/european-crane-fly/

http://www.lawnfertilizingservice.com/european-crane-fly/

http://www.nyis.info/index.php?action=invasive_detail&id=50

It’s Time for a Spring Clean-Up

Mon, 06 Mar 2017 05:00:00 GMT

HOW TO PROPERLY PREPARE THE LAWN FOR SPRING

When the snow has melted, the birds are chirping and the weather has begun to stay consistently warm, it means that spring is finally here! But even though winter is gone it has most likely left a mess behind on your lawn, meaning it’s time to do some spring yard cleaning. But why is it important to cleanup your yard this spring? Besides just making a house and lawn look more attractive, it’s going to ensure all future lawn treatments are effective and lawn maintenance is obstruction free. So, let’s get started!

WHAT SPRING CLEANING NEEDS TO BE DONE TO A LAWN?

Spring-cleaning a lawn involves more than just beginning to mow again, the actions you take now help strengthen your lawn against environmental stresses, pests, weeds and diseases for the seasons to come. By following these spring-cleaning tips, you can ensure your lawn is ready to efficiently utilize fertilizer applications and is on its way to a healthy and beautiful year.

Clear leaves, branches and other natural debris
Haul and/or compost debris from lawn
Re-edge and cleaning of flower beds and gardens
Redefine lawn borders
Aerate
Mow grass to appropriate grass height
Reseed damaged areas of the lawn (if needed)
Trim/prune trees and shrubs.
Perform irrigation checks for leaks or clogs as well as properly adjust and align sprinkler heads, nozzles and drip irrigation as needed TIP: Lawns generally don’t need supplemental water until the weather warms up (around May).

TIPS TO LANDSCAPE PROFESSIONALS

Even if there is still snow on the ground, it’s time to begin thinking about spring services you can offer customers. It takes more than just one day to get the word out to your customers and train staff for upcoming lawn care additions. When the weather breaks the lawn care crew can hit the ground running, helping customers spring clean their lawns. Some tips to consider when preparing spring clean-up services:

Advertise Early! Get the word out so potential customers know who to call when lawn care tasks need completed. Utilize mailers, social media, pamphlets, posters, e-newsletters, emails and more to help get the word out.
Add Additional Spring Cleaning Services. Offer nontraditional services like window cleaning and clogged gutter maintenance to add to your revenue. NOTE: Be sure that your business's insurance covers workers being on ladders prior to introducing this new feature.
Does your Client need Landscape Edging? Edging creates clean, crisp lines around flower beds, driveways and patios. If you notice that a client may need edging in their landscape, take the opportunity to offer it as a means to add visual interest to a property.
Bring Color! That is right, adding newly planted annual flowers can immediately alter a customer’s curb appeal with a fresh look. Considering offering this as a service to free up your client’s time and to enhance their landscape.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.xtremelawncare.com/how-spring-lawn-prepping-can-provide-year-round-benefits/

http://www.turfmagazine.com/services/spring-cleanup-landscaping-services/

http://www.groundsguys.com/residential-services/lawn-bed-maintenance/spring-clean-up/

http://www.turfmagazine.com/keeping-it-green/opportunities-after-100-days-hell-landscaping/

The Turf[TECH]Report - Getting the Dirt on Soil Amendments

Fri, 03 Mar 2017 05:00:00 GMT

GETTING THE DIRT ON SOIL AMENDMENTS

The success or failure of turf is directly related to the quality of the soil and how it has been treated and/or managed throughout its growth cycle. One way to greatly improve soil quality for turf grass is to apply a soil amendment to condition the soil. Soil amendments are used to enrich the soil and provide a better growing environment for plant roots, which strengthen turf and ensures proper nutrient uptake. But what exactly is a soil amendment, when should you use one and what type should you use? This article will answer these questions and more as we give you the “dirt” on soil amendments.

WHAT EXACTLY IS A SOIL AMENDMENT?

Sportsfield Magazines’, Dr. David Gardner defines soil amendments in his article “The Science of Soil Amendments,” as being:

A soil amendment is anything added to the soil for the purpose of improving either its chemical (pH, nutrient status) or physical (water retention, permeability, drainage) properties. (Gardner, sportsfieldmanagementmagazine.com)

It’s important to understand that a soil amendment is not to be confused with fertilizers because they do not add nutrients to soil for plant growth but rather cultivate a positive growing environment for improved plant growth. Applications of soil amendments should be applied yearly to maintain soil that is loose and healthy allowing proper root growth, nutrient uptake and in some cases a balanced pH level.

WHY APPLY A SOIL AMENDMENT TO A LAWN?

Fertilizing an area is just not enough when preparing and managing a lawn’s health. Although fertilizer can put needed macro nutrients like Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium back into the soil, without additional soil treatments nutrients can be locked up in the soil (due to an unbalanced pH), suffer from improper irrigation (caused by compaction/sandy or clay soil) and micro nutrient deficiency (because of natural or over tilled depletion). In order to achieve and maintain successful plant health and function you need to apply a soil amendment that chosen based on need, can result in the following:

Enhance Nutrient Uptake
Increase Moisture Storage
Promote a Healthy Environment for Root Growth
Assist in Temperature and Drought Hardiness
Improve Tolerance Against Environmental Stresses, Heat, Dry Weather and Foot Traffic
Increase Healthy Green and Lush Appearance
Improve Germination and Seeding Growth
Neutralize Soil pH
Enhance Efficiency of Future Fertilizer Uptake by Plants

It’s imperative to test the soil to better understand pH and macro nutrient deficiencies in order to figure out which soil amendment is best suited for each specific lawn. Identifying soil pH is important prior to soil amendment application because you must determine if the soil is acidic or alkaline before you know which product to use.

WHAT’S THE KEY TO SUCCESS WHEN CHOOSING A SOIL AMENDMENT?

The key to success is properly identifying your soil needs and choosing the best and most effective product. There are a variety of soil amendments on the market that manage different types of soil issues and can be broken down into two different general categories, organic and inorganic:

ORGANIC SOIL AMENDMENTS

Organic Soil Amendments come from something that was once alive. This type of amendment is great for both chemical and physical soil improvements. Organic amendments include peat, compost and wood ash.

Peat is a brown , soil-like material characteristic of boggy, acid ground, consisting of partly decomposed vegetable matter. This is semi-renewable resource and is an excellent amendment for sandy soils since it has high water retention and raises pH levels. This is great for soils that are too alkaline since it is retained from a boggy, acidic ground.
Compost is a broad category that refers to decomposed organic matter that is not regulated and can include a combination of plant-based compost, biosolids, manure-based composts and other agricultural by-products, such as chicken feathers or straw. Compost can improve soil’s structure water management including better drainage or water holding capability depending on soil type (i.e. sand or clay). Use caution when applying manure-based composts or biosolids since these amendments have a higher salt content. Plant-based compost like grass clippings or wood chip compost are more expensive but contain a low salt content (to reduce cost, you can reuse your own grass clippings). NOTE: Amending a soil is not the same as applying mulch to topsoil because to be a true soil amendment it must be thoroughly mixed into the soil. Mulch is left on top of the soil to reduce evaporation and runoff as well as prevent weed growth.
Wood ash is the powder left over after wood has been burned from a fireplace, wood stove or an industrial power plant. Wood ash is high in potassium so when water is added to it, it forms potassium hydroxide, a compound that is highly alkaline. This acts as a natural substitute for lime that will alter the soil’s chemical property by raising the soil pH. Although wood ash amends soil pH, it requires roughly 2-3 times more of the amount of wood ash compared to one application of lime which over time may become costly and time consuming. Other cautions to be aware of is the type of wood being burned for wood ash use because each species of wood contains different percentages of potassium that will affect turf grass. Do NOT use coal, charcoal, lead-painted or chemically treated ashes as they will lead to toxins introduced to plants.

INORGANIC SOIL AMENDMENTS

Inorganic Soil Amendments have been mined or man-made. Depending on the material, this amendment can improve either the physical or chemical properties of soils, but seldom manage both. This includes Lime, Gypsum and Granulated Sulfur.

Lime products include calcitic limestone (containing finely ground pure calcium carbonate) and dolomitic lime. The chemical definition of lime is calcium oxide and is defined as being a calcium or calcium-magnesium containing product used on lawns. Lime’s benefits to turf grass alter its chemical properties which makes it capable to neutralize soil acidity by raising soil pH and reducing harmful effects of an imbalanced soil. There are Enhanced Lime products available which have added ingredients that increase the effects of lime and improve product benefits.
Gypsum , also known as calcium sulfate, modifies chemical properties of soil by lowering salt levels which then helps alter its physical properties over time, resulting in increased soil aeration, structure and permeability. Gypsum also replenishes soil’s essential macro-nutrients, calcium and sulfur, that are not applied during fertilization. This amendment is great for any soil type since it will improve soil structure while not altering pH. TIP: Gypsum is a perfect soil amendment to use against salt damage from winter .
Granulated Sulfur is another key player in neutralizing soil by adding more acidity to it. In soil that is too alkaline, an addition of sulfur will change the chemical properties of soil because microorganisms will begin to oxidize the added amendment into sulfuric acid which in turn brings pH to a more acidic level. This process unlocks iron necessary for plant growth, making it more soluble and easier to absorb by plant roots.

Overall, soil amendments are an important addition to the success of a lawn. Even though there are multiple amendments out there it’s important to understand the pros and cons of each. Although organic amendments are very true to their original form and can alter both chemical and physical soil properties, they can be unpredictable, since mother nature is not regulated, which can cause inconsistent results. Inorganic amendments improve chemical properties rapidly but involve time and an adopted fertilization regime to alter physical properties. Time and consistency will provide desired results. In the end, a regular, healthy turf care routine including proper fertilization, aeration , watering , and mowing is needed in order to help maintain soil amendments properties in soil.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/choosing-a-soil-amendment/

http://extension.illinois.edu/lawntalk/planting/soil_and_site_preparation.cfm

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-the-different-types-of-soil-amendments.htm

http://www.sportsfieldmanagementmagazine.com/columns/turf-health/soil-amendments/

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/state/newsdetail.cfm?NewsID=12505

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/sulfur-work-lawns-85117.html

Seeding in Spring

Fri, 24 Feb 2017 05:00:00 GMT

DISCOVER HOW TO APPLY SEED TO LAWNS IN SPRING

When spring arrives and the turf appears to be patchy or you need to establish a whole new lawn, although best recommended in fall, spring can also provide a good environment for grass seed germination. Even well maintained lawns can become patchy and thin over time for multiple reasons; some factors that can lead to damage include, insects, grass disease, environmental stresses and weather. Spring weather offers frequent rain showers and ideal temperatures that warm the soil to assist with seed germination, allowing new turf to mature before the summer heat hits. There are three different techniques to manage thin or spotty turf, they include: spot seeding, overseeding/ reseeding, or total lawn renovation or installation.

Spot Seeding is the technique that is the quickest and easiest form or repairing spotty lawns because it involves spreading seed to small areas of dead grass (i.e. worn areas from foot traffic or roots from vehicles or heavy objects in the lawn).
Overseeding/Reseeding refers to the technique of spreading new grass seed on top of an already established lawn in order to return a thin or damaged lawn to a healthy looking one.
Lawn Renovation or Installation refers to extreme cases where lawns are experiencing excessive thatch and/or are so thin that they need to be completely replanted or to install/establish a new lawn like in the case of new construction. Renovating a lawn can involve a lot of time and hard work because you need to remove the old lawn (which might include sod cutters or dethatching ) before you are able to prepare the soil and reseed. For new lawn installation, the process is simple, since there is no previous lawn to remove you can just prepare the soil and reseed.

BEST TIME TO PLANT

Although its recommended to seed in fall, its sometimes unavoidable and a lawn will need to be filled in or planted come spring (the second-best time to of the year for planting grass seed). It’s important to understand that the times between March-May are best times to plant grass seed because soil temperature range between 50-60°F, the ideal temperature for grass seed germination.

TIP: When daytime air temperatures are between 60-75°F consistently, then it’s a good indication that soil is at a suitable temperature for new grass.

HOW TO PICK THE RIGHT GRASS SEED

When planting new grass seed it’s important to determine which grasses grow best in your area. Grass types such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescue or perennial ryegrass are most commonly found in northern regions while grass types such as Bermuda, centipede, St. Augustine and zoysia are commonly found in southern regions. Your local lawn care expert will be able to help identify whether cool season grasses or warm season grasses are more common in the area and then can direct you to the proper grass seeded need.

PREPARING SOIL FOR SEED

In order to cultivate a healthy lawn with rapid germination and growth, the proper soil preparations need to be prepared.

STEPS TO PREPARING A BARE SOIL BED

TECHNIQUES FOR LAWN RENOVATION OR INSTALLATION

This process should take place a few weeks prior to new seeding.

Check soil pH to be certain that soil is ready for seed. Seed germinates best in a balance/neutral soil pH . NOTE: Check the recommended pH level on grass species you are planting, some pH levels vary. See step 6 on how to balance pH level.
Till the top 2-3 inches of the soil with a tiller (for cases on a smaller scale, a garden rake can work great too).
Clear debris that has been tilled up, including weeds, rocks and branches.
Rake soil in order to level out as well as breaking up or removing any clumps of soil that are too large.
Allow the soil to settle to prevent dropping later, lightly firm soil down after tilling by treading on it with our feet or using a light roller. NOTE: Allow this to settle for a week or two.
After soil has settle, gently rake soil to loosen the top layer again in order to allow an application of a soil amendment like lime (to increase pH level in acid soil) or sulfur (to reduce pH level in alkaline soil). Review product label instructions for proper application rates. Understand that this should be applied with a spreader and not by hand. TIP: Even if your soil has a balanced pH, an application of a soil amendment will help unlock key nutrients locked up in soil to enhance seed germination.
Apply a starter fertilizer to give the new grass seed the nutrients needed to grow. Follow instructions on the back of the product label for proper application rates.
The night before seeding, water the soil so its damp, not saturated.
Apply grass seed with spreader! Review grass seed label instructions for proper applications.

STEPS TO PREPARING A SEED BED IN AN ESTABLISHED LAWN

TECHNIQUES FOR SPOT SEEDING OR OVERSEEDING

This process should take place a few weeks prior to new seeding.

Check soil pH to be certain that soil is ready for seed. NOTE: During this step, if soil is too acidic or alkaline it’s okay, follow step 5 below prior to addressing soil pH with an application of lime or gypsum.
Aerate the lawn in order to break up compact soil. NOTE: Don’t worry about the soil plugs because they will naturally decompose and be broken up by the mower. If plugs are still excessive, gently break them apart with a rake.
Mow the lawn to its lowest mowing height .
Rake to clear debris including rocks, branches and grass clippings. TIP: Grass clippings are great for putting nutrients back into your lawn, instead of throwing them away to be taken to a landfill, try using them in gardens or around trees for natural fertilization.
Apply a soil amendment like lime (acid soil) or sulfur (alkaline soil). Review product label instructions for proper application rates. Understand that this should be applied with a spreader and not by hand. TIP: Even if your soil has a balanced pH, an application of an enhanced soil amendment like AMP-XC™ will help unlock key nutrients locked up in soil and greatly increase the speed of seed germination, leading to a fuller lawn more quickly.
Apply a fertilizer to give the new grass seed the nutrients needed to grow. Follow instructions on the back of the product label for proper application rates. NOTE: DO NOT APPLY a weed & feed with fertilizer to a lawn that is going to be reseeded. This will prevent new grass seed germination. Post-pone a weed & feed application until turf has been mowed 4-5 times, giving time for a root system to grow
The night before seeding, water the soil so its damp, not saturated.
Apply grass seed with spreader! Review grass seed label instructions for proper applications.

With the proper soil preparations, including applications of soil amendments , fertilization and watering , your grass seed should be on its way to growing into a beautiful lush lawn. Take the proper steps will ensure your seed become strong, healthy turf that will be able to survive against environmental stresses, weeds, pests and disease. A good rule of thumb is to make sure the new grass has plenty of water (not saturated). Please note, a freshly seeded lawn should have limited activity so be sure to refrain from walking on or mowing it. Once it reaches 3 inches it’s okay to mow again; this includes having patience after over seeded or patch/spot seeded lawns because the established lawn will continue to grow. Allow 2-4 weeks until mowing can resume when using these techniques. Follow up with proper lawn care treatments and fertilization and you should have a healthy looking lawn that will last for season to come.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/plant-grass-seed-spring-39233.html

https://www.trugreen.com/blog/overseeding/the-basics-of-overseeding-a-lawn

https://www.trugreen.com/blog/overseeding/overseeding-in-spring-can-i-just-throw-the-seed-on-my-lawn

https://www.spring-green.com/lawn-care-guide/lawn-seeding-tips/

http://fescue.com/info/whentoplant.html#.WLBCtbGZNLw

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-seed-lawn

https://www.trugreen.com/blog/overseeding/own-the-yard-how-to-care-for-your-lawn-after-overseeding

https://theseamanmom.com/how-to-prepare-soil-for-grass-seed/

Spring Lawn Care Check List

Thu, 23 Feb 2017 05:00:00 GMT

Spring is almost here and there are some lawn care tasks to start on in order to prepare your lawn for a quick green up, the fight against weeds and pests, as well as helping turf produce a stronger root system to manage the stresses of summer.

For more information on the check list above, check out these articles:

Yard Clean-Up
Aerate , Dethatch , & Reseed
First Mow of the Season
Weed and Feed
Lime

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

The Turf[TECH]Report - Understanding Herbicides

Mon, 13 Feb 2017 05:00:00 GMT

UNDERSTANDING HERBICIDES

The term herbicide, well known by the turf industry for years, are chemicals that can be applied to fertilizer that can kill or change the normal growth of weeds, but do you know the difference between all the herbicides on the market? Because there are a variety of herbicide options available, it’s important to understand them prior to purchase in order target a particular problem and get the results you'r looking for.

THE BASICS OF HERBICIDES

Herbicides will fall into two categories; pre-emergent or post-emergent . As the name alludes, pre-emergent herbicides should be applied prior to weed germination and/or emerging weeds so that it can form a chemical barrier in the soil to protect the turf from infestation. Post-emergent herbicides are applied after the weeds have already germinated and emerging from the soil. Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied as a liquid, a granular or with a fertilizer (combo) and watered into the soil to activate the weed prevention feature. Post-emergent herbicides are usually foliar applied, meaning the chemical must come in contact with leaf or petal and be absorbed by the weeds in order to kill the weed. Often times this is a less effective method because the chemical can be washed off leaves by rainfall or irrigation before it can be absorbed.

On top of being pre- or post-emergent, herbicides can either be, selective and nonselective. Selective herbicides target particular weeds without damaging surround turf or plants, while, non-selective herbicides kill all plants, including turf grass. Non-selective herbicides should be applied to weeds that are actively growing and excessively invading your lawn. Non-selective herbicides are ideal for spot treatment of existing weeds, but caution must be used as desired turf will also be killed.

TIP: Non-selective herbicides are great to use along an overgrown fence or between the cracks in a driveway and selective herbicides are best to remove weeds within your lawn. A good rule of thumb to remember, if the area is overrun with 50% weeds, a non-selective herbicide may be your best choice, understand though that you will most likely need to reseed.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING

Timing is crucial when applying an herbicide, especially pre-emergents. Pre-emergent need to be applied prior to a weed seed germination; but how does one know when a weed is going to germinate? One must have an understanding of what weed is the persistent issue and learn when and at what temperature it begins to grow in order to prevent the weed from sprouting. Two ways to determine germination is monitoring soil temperatures on site (where you will apply treatment) or with phenology. As SportsField Management Magazine states in their article, “Crabgrass and Goosegrass Control”, phenology is a technique that refers to using temperature as a basis of a predictive method because plant growth and development is based on temperature. This technique can provide useful information to predict weed emergence by monitoring growth patterns in conjunction with calculating degree-day accumulations. It is important to note that when using phenology, the plant does not emerge at a certain degree point but rather at a range of degree-days, for example, crabgrass, a C4 annual grassy weed, germinates in early spring at a temperature around 50-55 degrees. In SportsField Management Magazine’s same article, “Crabgrass and Goosegrass Control”, they bring light to a study done that found that crabgrass germinated within a degree day range of 42-78 degrees. With phenology, one can develop models as a guide to help target pre-emergent herbicide applications in specific region.

NOTE: Pre-emergents applied after initial weed germination can still provide benefits to prevent additional weeds from emerging, however, the current germinated weeds will most likely mature and not provide desired results. Its recommended to address the problem with a specialty herbicide, like Dimension, that combines both pre-emergent with a post-emergent herbicide if weeds have already germinated.

TYPES OF PRE-EMERGENT AND POST- EMERGENT TECHNOLOGIES

There are many different pre- and post- emergent technologies available. The different technologies can affect the window of application as well as effectiveness. It is important to apply them at the right time and identify which weeds you want to target to get the best results.

PRE-EMERGENTS

Dimension - Controls 47 grassy and broadleaf weeds, Longer application window
Atrazine - Recommended for southern regions on St. Augustine Grass and Centipede Grass
Prodiamine - (Barricade equivalent) is known to be the longest-lasting, and most economical due to lowest application rates.

POST-EMERGENTS

Lock-Up - Superior efficacy, can be applied anytime of year, can be applied to warm- & cool-season turf.
Lazer - Contains three key active components, Dicamba, 2-4D, and MCPP. The combination of these three offer effective post control of more than 40 different weeds.

GLOSSARY

C4 plants - Warm-season; tropical plants that reduce carbon dioxide captured during photosynthesis to useable components by first converting carbon dioxide to oxaloatcetate, a 4-carbon acid
C3 Plants - Cool-season; temperate plants that reduce (fix) CO2 directly by the enzyme ribulose bisphosphate carboxylase (RUBPcase) in the chloroplast resulting in a reaction between CO2 and ribulose bisphophate, a phosphorylated 5-carbon sugar, forms two molecules of a 3-carbon acid called 3-phosphoglyceric acid

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/weed-management/chemical-weed-control

http://www.midway.kstate.edu/livestock/docs/What%20is%20the%20difference%20between%20C3%20plants%20and%20C4%20plants.pdf

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/understanding-weed-killers

https://extension.illinois.edu/hortihints/0406d.htm

https://extension.umd.edu/sites/default/files/_images/programs/hgic/Publications/HG101%20Guide%20to%20Controlling%20Weeds%20in%20Cool%20Season%20Turf.pdf

Tis the Season... for Snow Mold!

Fri, 10 Feb 2017 05:00:00 GMT

LEARN HOW TO IDENTIFY & TREAT AFFECTED TURF GRASS

As spring approaches and snow begins to melt, one may notice that areas of turf grass may appear to be “glued” together and pale yellow in color. This problem is sign of a disease know as snow mold. In the University of Minnesota’s article by Cynthia Ash, “Snow molds in lawns,” snow mold is defined as being “a fungal disease that appears in early spring as the snow melts.” No need to panic though, throughout this article we’ll discuss why snow mold has occurred, types of snow mold symptoms to watch out for as well as how to prepare your lawn to defend itself against the snow mold disease.

WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?

A less-tended to lawn can be more susceptible to snow mold but even a well maintained lawn can also fall victim to this disease. Although this disease does not occur every year, it is most common after a winter that had an early and deep snow cover that prevented the ground from properly freezing.

NOTE: A cold winter is less likely to promote snow mold but may still cause winter injury to lawns.
TIP: Any lawn can experience snow mold but with proper fertilization, watering, mowing and aeration you can decrease the likelihood of your lawn being affected by this disease each year.

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE SNOW MOLD TYPES & IDENTIFYING THE SYMPTOMS

There are two types of snow mold that become active under snow cover: gray and pink snow mold. Symptoms can first be noticed when pale yellow, straw like circular patches appear on a lawn after snow melts in the spring. Often, these patchy areas are matted, or seem “glued” together and have colorful fungal growth that cover the entire patch or develop along the edges of the infected area.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND SNOW MOLD ATTACK Snow mold doesn’t happen overnight; the right conditions will lead to this turfgrass disease. In the article, Distribution of Typhula spp. and Typhula ishikariensis Varieties in Wisconsin, Utah, Michigan, and Minnesota, from the Department of Plant Pathology at the University of Wisconsin states:

During winter dormancy, the carbohydrate reserves of the plants are depleted, and the plant becomes less resistant to disease. Weakened plant defenses allow these psychrophilic organisms to take advantage of a host while escaping competition and antagonism from other microorganisms (3,9, 14,23). In intensively managed turfgrasses, particularly creeping bentgrass (Agrostis stolonifera L.) and annual bluegrass (Poa annua L.), symptoms and signs of the disease appear in spring after snow melt as straw-colored circular patches of either dead tissue embedded with sclerotia in the leaves, crowns, or roots of the plant, or sclerotia loosely detached, suspended in mycelium between leaves (32,34).

TREATMENT STRATEGIES

Comes spring and if areas of turf grass appear to be “glued” together and pale yellow in color, then that means snow mold has infected your lawn. Luckily treatment is fairly simple, especially in cases that are not too severe. In the University of Minnesota’s article by Cynthia Ash, “Snow molds in lawns,” its recommended to "gently rake affected areas of the lawn to promote drying and prevent further fungal growth." If snow mold has been a severe, persistent and/or wide-spread issue in past years, a preventative fungicide program can be adopted. Contact the regions Cooperative Extension Office for more information in regard to current registered products available for use in that area.

PREVENTION & MANAGEMENT STRATEGIES

Turf grass is more susceptible to lawn disease during the winter months because of its dormancy. Since plants are not actively growing they are more vulnerable to disease due to the limited reserve of food/nutrients to get them through till spring. However, just because grass is dormant and more susceptible to snow mold disease doesn’t mean that the turf will become infected. It’s important to properly prepare turf grass during late spring/early fall in order to prevent & manage a future infection. Some important strategies to remember are:

Continue to mow turf as long as it continues to grow, this can even mean mowing into months when weather beings to cool. NOTE: Be sure to research or consult a lawn care expert about the grass species in your region for mowing specifications.
When applying winterizer in fall, be sure to follow bag label instructions about application timing as well as proper application rate. Fertilizing too late in the fall will stimulate excessive new growth, which will be vulnerable to infection. TIP: Avoid fertilizers with excessive nitrogen in mid-fall to discourage growth, rather, look for a winterizer that has higher rates of Potassium (the K in N-P-K).
Avoid creating snow banks, or piles of snow from shoveling and plowing on lawns to prevent compacting turf. The longer the snow remains on grass, the more moisture will be trapped, encouraging snow mold growth.
Leaf Mulch or remove leaves from lawn prior to winter weather. Piles of leaves create a favorable environment for snow mold.
Manage thatch and core aeration prior to heading into months of dormancy.
In areas affected by snow mold, lightly rake matted areas to loosen the grass in order to encourage new spring growth.

In the end, a balanced fertilization program that is applied in the correct amounts and at the right time ultimately provide the necessary nutrients needed to encourage a strong grass root system that will help prevent snow mold from occurring in the spring after the snow melts.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/pdf/10.1094/PHYTO-96-0926

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/lawns/snow-molds-in-lawns/

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/pinksnowmold.pdf

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/managing-diseases/pink-snow-mold

http://www.brennanlandscaping.com/home-and-garden-news/ProblemsAfterSnow

https://www.spring-green.com/lawn-care-guide/snow-mold/

http://www.turfmagazine.com/lawn-care/common-turfgrass-diseases/

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/graysnowmold.pdf

Lawn Care Tip: Springs Approaching! When Should You Start Mowing Again?

Thu, 09 Feb 2017 05:00:00 GMT

It’s a nice day but still in the midst of the winter season, leading you to wonder, “is it okay to start mowing again?” The answer depends on a few different factors. Even though grass does not really stop growing in the winter, it slows down significantly, to where it looks like it stopped; mowing during this time is not necessary. A good rule of thumb to remember is that once temperatures fall below 40˚ Fahrenheit, grass grows drastically slower. As spring approaches and temperatures start to warm, your grass will begin to grow again. Since regions and seasons vary, there is no specific date that this occurs so you will need to monitor your lawn until you can tell that it’s begun to actively start growing again. It is recommended to wait for grass to reach between 2-3 inches prior to the first mow in order to prevent grass injury and protect the roots of the grass from being infected with a lawn disease and weeds. Some important tips to remember prior to the first mow:

Make sure that temperatures have reached above 40˚ Fahrenheit consistently to ensure that the grass and soil has completely thawed and dried.
Review mowing height requirements for the specific grass located in a particular region or consult a lawn care expert about your grass species in your area for mowing specifications .
Sharpen mower blades prior to first mow (if haven’t done already).

Also remember, by mowing during winter you could be exposing your lawn to disease and damage so be sure it meets the factors mentioned above prior to first mow.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.tlehcs.com/question%20of%20the%20week/archive%20questions/Lawn%20Care/late%20season%20mowing.htm

https://www.spring-green.com/lawn-care-guide/snow-mold/

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/should-start-mowing-lawn-spring-43334.html

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/gardening-by-region/northeast/lawn-care-calendar-for-the-northeast/

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-store-your-lawn-mower-cold-season

Taking a Glance Inside the 2016 New England GROWS Show with the TurfCare™ Road Crew

Fri, 13 Jan 2017 05:00:00 GMT

Last month, a group of Turf Care Supply Corp’s employees, including the Marketing Design team, C.O.O. Mark Mangan and C.E.O. William Milowitz, traveled to Boston, Massachusetts to participate in the 2016 New England GROWS show. Throughout the show the team conducted product demonstrations, shared product knowledge, discussed catalog items and explained the rigorous steps taken for products to receive the TurfCare™ Premium Quality Mark of Assurance. Also, for filling out a quick survey, attendees where entered to win a YETI Cooler and received complimentary coffee daily for just stopping by! Congratulations to our YETI Cooler winners: John Boyd (pictured below), Rick Young, and Scott Doncaster. The New England GROWS show was a great event for TurfCare™ to meet with a variety of landscape professionals and explain our services and discuss how we can better serve their community. Thanks to the TurfCare™ team for representing our company so well and a special thanks to all the event attendees and landscapers that stopped by our booth and made it a truly enjoyable and successful event! Lastly, a huge thanks to the New England GROWS staff and sponsors for making this event great! It was great to meet all who visited our booth and we hope to see you next year.

Your friend in fertilizer,

Turf Care Supply Corp.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

2017 Upcoming Green Industry Trade Shows

Wed, 11 Jan 2017 05:00:00 GMT

8 EXCELLENT TRADE SHOWS YOU SHOULD WATCH FOR THIS YEAR

It’s a new year with multiple opportunities to learn, network and check out the latest in the green industry. Staying updated on the newest products, industry news and education is important throughout the green industry, so we’ve taken a look into 8 excellent upcoming trade shows and conferences that you should keep an eye out for throughout 2017.

NOTE: Shows are listed from dates closest to today. Some shows are approaching fast but you can still get a ticket!

MIDWEST GREEN INDUSTRY XPERIENCE (MGIX)

ABOUT: Formerly known as CENTS, the MGIX conference includes a trade show education sessions, pre-conference workshops, and special events to provide greater value for green industry professionals, personalized educational experiences through classroom training, seminars, hands-on workshops and speaker sessions as well as provide events packed with networking possibilities to connect with the best in the green industry.
WHERE: Greater Columbus Convention Center, Columbus, Ohio
WHEN: January 16–18, 2017

GREEN & GROWIN ’17

ABOUT: G&G’17 is infused with member feedback with sharper, more dynamic elements to better serve the some 5,000 professionals from all segments of the green industry that travel to Greensboro, NC each year.
WHERE: Greensboro,NC
WHEN: January 16-20, 2017

GREAT LAKES TRADE EXPO (GLTE)

ABOUT: The Great Lakes Trade Exposition, presented by the Michigan Nursery and Landscape Association, is an event that offers educational programming and certification opportunities for all segments of the green industry. The event will attract a large number of green industry professionals from North America. This three-day event will be a perfect place to establish trade links within the green industry.
WHERE: Lansing Center, Lansing, Michigan
WHEN: January 23-25, 2017

PROGREEN EXPO

ABOUT: ProGreen EXPO is the only green industry conference in the Rocky Mountain Region of its kind. More than 6,500 green industry professionals gather every year in Denver, Colorado to gain vital knowledge and skills to improve business, educate employees and discover the latest information for the upcoming season.
WHERE: Denver, Colorado
WHEN: February 7-10, 2017

NALP NATIONAL COLLEGIATE LANDSCAPE COMPETITION

ABOUT: The National Collegiate Landscape Competition is an annual three-day competition and networking event for students enrolled in interior and exterior horticulture programs at two- and four-year colleges and universities from across the country. Each year, a different host location is selected, which gives the participants a chance to see different parts of the country and also increases the level of difficulty for some of the outdoor competitions. More than 750 landscape industry students demonstrate their skills in real-world, competitive events coupled with an outstanding Career Fair. The National Collegiate Landscape Competition provides landscape industry companies with unparalleled opportunities to meet and recruit next-generation landscape industry superstars.
WHERE: Brigham Young University - Provo, Utah Valley
WHEN: March 15-18, 2017

GIE+EXPO

ABOUT: Two tradeshows – GIE+EXPO and Hardscape North America – co-located in one central location, provide your No. 1 opportunity to see what your industry is buzzing about. This Expo includes outdoor demonstrations, new product show cases as well as education & training for all industry segments.
WHERE: Louisville, Kentucky, Kentucky Expo Center
WHEN: October 18-20, 2017

NEW ENGLAND GROWS

ABOUT: The GROWS experience is unlike anything else in the industry today. Its world-class expo and dynamic lineup of learning experiences draw 10,000 professionals from all segments of the green industry to Boston every year.
WHERE: Boston Convention & Exhibition Center
WHEN: November 29 – December 1, 2017

OTF CONFERENCE & SHOW (OHIO TURFGRASS FOUNDATION)

ABOUT: For 50 years, the OTF Conference & Show has offered quality education and opportunities to the green industry. Our partnership with the OSU Green Industry Short Course has strengthened the conference by introducing more opportunities to increase knowledge of trees and ornamentals. Whether you manage turf, trees or anything in between, the education conference is a can't miss event for the serious professional.
WHERE: Greater Columbus Convention Center, Columbus, Ohio
WHEN: TBD-Beginning of December

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

3 Lawn Care Resolutions that will GREEN-UP your Lawn & your Wallet!

Mon, 09 Jan 2017 05:00:00 GMT

Want to improve the look and health of your turf and spend less money doing it? These lawn care resolutions can greatly improve the appearance of your lawn; more efficiently utilize the products you apply and keep/put more money in your pocket.

RESOLUTION #1: TEST THE SOIL

Not all soil types are created equal, so how do you know you are applying the right nutrients to your lawn? If you don’t know the pH level, nitrogen analysis or nutrient deficiencies of your soil you could be wasting your time and money buying and applying the wrong products. Applying the wrong products or nutrient can significantly reduce the health of your turf and inhibit efficient nutrient uptake and potentially waste your money. In order to have a healthy lawn you must have healthy soil. Soil testing is necessary to find out what your soil needs. In Lawn & Landscapes' article, “Know before you grow,” Jeff Carroll, owner of Jefferson Sustainable Landscape Management states, “People will just pump fertilizer and pump fertilizer … and no one really does soil testing… typically, when doing soil testing, I find that the soil has way too much nitrogen as a result of over fertilizing.” The truth of the matter is, flying blind without a soil test can lead to failed plantings (especially with new seedlings) and a costly waste of fertilizer. Making a habit to soil test will benefit the health of your lawn(s) and your finances by reducing over-application, balancing pH levels for efficient nutrient uptake and save you money by only buying and applying the fertilizer/nutrients needed by your soil.

Pro Testing Tips from CLC LABS in Westerville, Ohio:

Sample during the first visit of the season, before you apply any fertilizer. If you've recently applied fertilizer, wait six weeks before taking the sample.
Remove any turf and thatch before sampling. If you're unable to do that, you can include the turf and thatch with the soil.
If you include turf and thatch in your initial test, be sure to continue including them in future tests for consistency.
For turf, use a 3-inch deep sample, but for trees or ornamentals, use a 6-inch sample.
Soil testing requires at least 10 to 12 cores for a typical 6,000 square foot lawn so take enough cores or the sample will be too small to test.
Use a zig-zag pattern to get a sample that represents the entire area.

RESOLUTION #2: ENSURE YOUR SOIL HAS A NEUTRAL (BALANCED) PH LEVEL

A balanced pH level is necessary for your turf to properly and efficiently take-up nutrients and successfully fight off weeds. When your soil pH level is unbalanced, you could be wasting up to 70% of the effectiveness of your lawn fertilizer or control products. A neutral pH level of 6.0-6.8 is recommended for optimal plant health. If your soil is alkaline (7.0 or higher) you should apply Sulfur, if your soil is acidic (6.0 or lower) you should apply Calcium, which is commonly found in Lime . The addition of an annual application of Sulfur or Calcium (Lime) will improve lawn health and it’s ability to take-up nutrients, which will protect the financial investment you make on fertilizer. Applying a soil amendment to your lawn like Lime will also encourage a stronger root system, return depleted nutrients back to the soil (ex: calcium and magnesium), assist with protecting it against environmental stresses and increase water-holding capacity and retention in drought. When you have successfully balanced the soil pH, the fertilizer you apply is utilized to its full potential and so is your financial investment. For optimum effectiveness, the recommended annual application of soil amendments to balance your pH is spring and/or fall, or anytime your turf could use a quick pick me up. It’s recommended to do a soil test prior to application in order to gage a better understanding of soil health.

NOTE: Refer to label instructions of soil amendments to determine, when, how much and how often to apply.

RESOLUTION #3: BUY FERTILIZER BY THE TRUCKLOAD Purchasing fertilizer by the truckload (pick-up truck or 18 wheeler) may be daunting at first but can save you money in the long run. Buying more of the products you need at once can often reduce the total cost per unit, reduce the need to make multiple trips or orders, which can save you on gas, freight and time. Also, you can take the money you save on buying in bulk and upgrade your materials to higher quality products and get more bang for your buck!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.lawnandlandscape.com/article/ll0115-soil-health-prep-testing/

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/uploads/resources/pdfs/Facts_about_Soil_E1566.pdf

http://www.thepennyhoarder.com/how-to-save-money-on-landscaping-costs/

http://www.hgtv.com/design/outdoor-design/landscaping-and-hardscaping/design/14-secret-landscaper-tips-and-tricks-pictures

http://money.usnews.com/money/blogs/my-money/2014/03/18/15-items-always-worth-buying-in-bulk

Want to get the BEST MELT out of your ICE MELT?

Wed, 07 Dec 2016 05:00:00 GMT

IMPORTANT SELECTION & APPLICATION TECHNIQUES

Winter has arrived and if you haven’t already, soon you will be visited by lots of snow. But life can't stop for snow, which is why we count on ice melt. Are you buying and applying your ice melt the most cost efficient and effective? Ice melt is a great tool to help prevent ice/snow build up as well as slips or falls but results vary depending on the ingredients and application method. Follow these four important tips & techniques to ensure you’re getting the BEST MELT out of your ICE MELT.

1. SELECT THE PROPER ICE MELT

With so many ice melt products out in the market today, trying to choose the right product to use may seem overwhelming. There are many performance characteristics to consider prior to choosing an ice melt that may help you narrow down your choices. For instance, what is the coldest temperature your region is likely to experience or how quickly do you want/need your ice melt to work? Review the info below and chart to learn which ingredients will work best to fit all your Ice Melt needs.

Exothermic Ice Melt (Hygroscopic Deicer): This product contains calcium chloride and releases heat when it comes in contact with ice. Ice melts that are exothermic work well in dry, cooler temperatures (down to -25°F) because the material attracts any available moisture from the relatively dry surface of ice as well as the surrounding air to chemically react with the moisture to release heat and begin melting ice. Often these products cost slightly more than other blends but are more effective because they work quicker with less product being used.

Endothermic Ice Melt: This product does not contain calcium chloride. Endothermic ice melt blends require ambient temperature to work. This just means that the product absorbs heat from the atmosphere in order to melt snow/ice. Ice melts that are endothermic work well in mild temperatures (down to 5°F) but will often dissolve snow and ice slower in more dry/cool temperatures. Often these products cost slightly less than other blends but are limited to areas with more mild winters.

NOTE: Once you determine what type of ice melt to use, consider colorant (dye added to help with even coverage), safe-for-use qualities and environmental impact. All these are determined by you and what your preferences are. Refer to label on your product to determine these qualifications.

2. DON’T WAIT UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE

This includes both purchasing and applying your ice melt product. Winter is approaching so instead of waiting until the first snow to purchase ice melt, try making arrangements to have ice melt on hand prior to a storm. If there is an expected storm coming, treat a surface (driveway, sidewalk, outdoor steps, parking lot etc.) ahead of time. A pre-application will prevent snow/ice to bond and build-up on a surface which will ultimately result in less product use in the long run.

TIP: Apply ice melt before, during and at the end of storm for maximum deicing results.

3. DISPERSE PROPERLY

It is possible to have too much of a good thing with ice melt. Applying large amounts of ice melt at once will not affect the speed of snow and ice melting. Also, too much product can result in damaged surfaces, harm to the environment and unnecessarily increased product use and cost. For efficient and accurate coverage results, a mechanical spreader is recommended; the proper coverage is about one cup per square foot. Product will fan out and undercut the ice, making it easier to remove.

4. STORE PROPERLY

In between storms, be sure to store product in a tightly sealed container to protect it from air, sunlight and moisture. Certain chemicals in ice melt products (Magnesium Chloride and Calcium Chloride) will draw moisture out of the air resulting in a clumpy, hard and degraded product. Left over product at the end of the winter season can be stored in the same container it’s been stored it in all season, but wrap the bag in a dark wrap to prevent any extra light from reaching the product.

NOTE: Be sure to always store out of reach of children.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Reference:

http://blog.regdist.com/6-important-tips-to-safely-and-effectively-use-ice-melt

http://blog.hpproducts.com/2013/09/reduce-slips-and-falls-this-winter-with-ice-melt/

https://www.greenviewfertilizer.com/articles/prevent-ice-melt-damage

BEWARE of Ice Melt Damage

Wed, 07 Dec 2016 05:00:00 GMT

IMPORTANT TIPS TO PREVENT & TREAT ICE MELT DAMAGE

Applying Ice Melt to walkways and drives is a necessary and effective way to prevent slips and falls throughout the winter season but it can also cause adverse effects to lawns and landscapes. Following these steps can assist with the prevention and treatment of ice melt damage:

IDENTIFYING ICE MELT THREATS

Ice melt damage occurs when turf and ornamentals become burned by splashed product or when it is dissolved into water runoff and absorbed into the root system. Damaged areas are often located next to the street, sidewalk or driveway where ice melt has been applied regularly throughout the winter season. Continued splashing of ice melt onto turf or ornamentals can increase salt concentration to a toxic level that will result in weaken or dying plants.

NOTE: Some grasses, foliage and ornamentals exhibit a higher tolerance to ice melt while others, like, shallow-rooted species and evergreens, can be injured very easily. Be sure to protect the weaker plants or do not plant them near areas where ice melt will be applied. Call your state extension office for a listing of resistant species in your area. Ice melt damage may not be detected until spring when plants begin to green-up and grow again.

WAYS TO IDENTIFY ICE MELT DAMAGE/SALT TOXICITY IN TURF AND ORNAMENTALS:

Plants are delayed in leaf bud breaking and flowering
The foliage and buds are stunted
Tips of plants are brown
Shoot growth is reduced
Crown thinning and tufting at branch tips
Foliage prematurely changes colors or losses leaves
Twig mortality
In severe cases, invasions by insect borers, crown dieback, weakly pathogenic fungi and plant mortality may occur

THE SCIENCE BEHIND WHAT HAPPENS TO VEGETATION WITH ICE MELT DAMAGE

When ice melt “burns” vegetation and its roots, it disrupts the natural movement of water in plants from an area of low ionic concentration (salt) within the plant cells to that of higher concentration in soil or on foliar surfaces. During dry periods, when the atmospheric humidity and soil moisture is limited, salt injury is more likely since it cannot be leached through the root system. In Ph. D., Plant Pathologist, Bruce R. Fraedrich’s article, Salt Injury to Landscape Plants: Identification and Treatment, he explains the role in which high levels of ice melt concentration play in a plant:

Recent research indicates that sodium and/or chloride ions themselves may be toxic to plants in quantity. The former element particularly is suspect since, unlike chlorides, which are readily translocated to the leaves where they are shed; sodium is extremely static and will accumulate in soil and plant tissue. High sodium concentration in plant tissues may alter a plant’s mineral nutrition balance and inhibit protein syntheses (Fraedrich,bartlett.com).

To prevent this damage from occurring try following these tips this winter to help avoid buildup of high salt concentration levels:

Substitute ice melts with sodium chloride to products with calcium chloride because it is much less toxic to plants and just as effective. NOTE: Calcium chloride deicing agents are not for large scale use due to higher cost and can be difficult to store. Only use this on smaller applications, for instance, on areas near your landscape.
Don’t over salt! Excess product can increase the chance of ice melt bouncing into a lawn. Follow label instructions for proper application.
Remove ice and snow frequently to prevent access buildup of product on driveways, sidewalks, paths, etc. Try not to distribute ice/snow treated with product onto lawns or gardens.
Refrain from planting anything near areas that will be exposed to salt.
Don’t plant plants highly susceptible to salt damage on a downward slope from areas where ice melt is applied.
Create a barrier between spaces where ice melt will be applied and the yard to prevent salt from entering into the landscape. Try using burlap, landscape fabric, wood, polyethylene, etc. to erect this barrier.
If plants are being sprayed, lightly brush off ice melt.
IMPORTANT: Never use ice melt on concrete that is less than 2 years old. Freeze-thaw damage can occur, cause cracks in new driveways, pathway, stairs, etc. Instead try sand or kitty litter; these are less effective but will help prevent slipping.

TREATING SALT INJURED LANDSCAPES

If you recognize salt burn to the lawn and landscape, try these options to treat and correct the damaged area:

Water heavily to leach salt out, especially in dry conditions
Apply Gypsum to counteract salt injury. NOTE: When you apply gypsum, it will react with toxic sodium ions to render them unavailable to plants, causing the negatively charged sulfate ions in gypsum to bond with the positive charged sodium ions forming sodium sulfate. The sodium sulfate is highly soluble and can be easily leached through the soil creating a binding agent by leaving the remaining positive charged calcium ions free to bond with negative charged clay molecules, resulting in increased soil aeration and permeability. Gypsum can be applied with a lawn spreader, just like granular fertilizers.
Reseed grass that is too severely damaged. Water heavily prior to reseeding. NOTE: Tall Fescue is a grass species that is more salt tolerant, check with your local distributor for more details.
Use fertilizer with low salt indices (Low potash/potassium content, the lower the “K” the lower the salt index.)

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Reference:

https://www.bartlett.com/resources/Salt-Injury-to-Landscape-Plants.pdf

https://www.spring-green.com/lawn-care-guide/preventing-salt-damage/

https://www.greenviewfertilizer.com/articles/prevent-ice-melt-damage

Winter Lawn Care Check List

Tue, 01 Nov 2016 04:00:00 GMT

Winter is quickly approaching and there are just a few more things you should do in order to prepare your lawn for the cool months ahead. Make sure you check these 5 items off your list to ensure an easy beginning to your lawn care in the spring.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Taking a Glance Inside the 2016 GIE+EXPO with the TurfCare™ Road Crew

Tue, 01 Nov 2016 04:00:00 GMT

Last month, a group of Turf Care Supply Corp’s employees, including the Executive Team, Regional Sales and select Department Managers traveled to Louisville, Kentucky to participate in the 2016 GIE+EXPO. Throughout the show the team conducted product demonstrations, shared product knowledge, discussed catalog items and explained the rigorous steps taken for products to receive the TurfCare™ Premium Quality Mark of Assurance. Also, for filling out a quick survey, attendees where entered to win a YETI Cooler and received complimentary coffee daily for just stopping by! Congratulations to our YETI Cooler winners: Paul Cieszynski and David Harper (Harper pictured below). The 2016 GIE+EXPO was a great event for TurfCare™ to meet with a variety of landscape professionals and explain our services and discuss how we can better serve their community. Thanks to the TurfCare™ team for representing our company so well and a special thanks to all the event attendees and landscapers that stopped by our booth and made it a truly enjoyable and successful event!

Not only did TurfCare™ participate by having a booth at the GIE+SHOW but we also became a member of N.A.L.P. (National Association of Landscape Professionals). N.A.L.P. is the trade association for the landscape industry, representing the voice of more than 100,000 landscape professionals. We are really excited to offer our services and support to this large community of industry professionals.

Huge thanks once again to the GIE+EXPO staff, sponsors and attendees. It was great to meet all who visited our booth and we hope to see you next year.

Your friend in fertilizer,

Turf Care Supply Corp.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Be the Boss of Lawn Frost: Discover How to Identify, Manage & Prevent Lawn Frost Damage

Tue, 01 Nov 2016 04:00:00 GMT

WHAT CAUSES FROST

Frost typically occurs overnight when warm air rises and cool air near the ground drops below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. During a light frost the ground does not freeze, making it easier for grass and plants to survive.

WHAT HAPPENS TO THE PLANTS DURING A FROST

Grass blades move water throughout the length of the plant for nourishment, but when a frost comes, the moisture freezes inside (This is what causes the frosty look of the grass). When the water freezes it expands, rupturing plant cell walls. A light frost that does not freeze the ground won’t cause severe damage because the grass roots below the soil remain above freezing point. This may result in some blade damage but the roots often have the chance to heal the damage as the grass continues to grow.

FROST DAMAGE OF A LAWN

Visible Damage: After several nights or a light frost, visible damage can be seen during the days. This visible damage looks different depending on your grass type, for example, Bermuda grass can become brown and patchy and will die quickly if warmer temperatures do not return, while St. Augustine becomes yellow, brown and even sometimes purple in hue in frost damaged areas.

Impact Damage: When your lawn has frost covering it, it is susceptible to impact damage. This damage can be caused by walking, driving or leaving heavy objects on your lawn. When impact pressure is applied to a frosted lawn, the expanded water molecules slice through the plant, causing cell damage. You can often determine quickly if your lawn has impact damage because the grass will appear to look white or beige from being crushed.

HOW TO PREVENT/TREAT A FROSTBITTEN LAWN

Prevention:

Wait for the sun to rise to melt the frost from your lawn before stepping, driving or applying impact pressure on your lawn.
Give your grass a deep watering the night before an expected frost. The watering allows moisture to slowly evaporate overnight, causing friction and heat around the grass blades. As the night air drops below freezing, you turf will have a slightly higher temperature from the evaporating heat process, allowing your grass to not reach the freezing temperature that causes plant cell wall damage.
Move the mower blades up .5 inches, allowing longer leaves to help shelter grass crowns from future frosts.
Refrain from mowing right before a frost. Mowing creates a wound on the plant, making it more susceptible to frost damage.
Rake yard of dead grass if the frost/freeze has been particularly hard in your area. Too much dead grass can lead to excessive thatch .

Treatment:

Apply 1 inch (1 hour) of water in the morning to a frostbitten lawn because hydration plummets due to the dew evaporation off the leaves.
Reseed damaged areas once spring arrives.
Mow only after your lawn begins to grow again and not looking discolored. Move the mower blades up .5 inches, allowing longer leaves to help shelter grass crowns from future frosts.
Wait to fertilize for up to a month after damage, extra nitrogen from frost dehydration can cause more damage.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/light-frost-effects-grass-63421.html

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/treat-frostbitten-lawn-25856.html

http://www.thegardenhelper.com/frost.html

http://www.weed-pro.com/blog/bid/132887/Lawn-Care-Alert-Yellow-in-Your-Lawn-Frost-is-Likely-Culprit\

To Rake or not to Rake?

Wed, 12 Oct 2016 04:00:00 GMT

COMMON MYTH EXPOSED

Autumn is quickly approaching, leaves are beginning to change colors and fall; so it’s time to bust out that rake again, right? Maybe not, the practice we know as “raking leaves” to prevent them from smothering and killing our lawns may be actually inhibiting the overall health of your lawn.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Leaves must be raked or mulched off your lawn prior to applying Winterizer fertilizer . Benefits discussed in this article involve leaving leaves on lawn after fertilizer treatment has been completed.

MYTH: LEAVES KILL YOUR LAWN

Even though you have been told that leaving leaves on your lawn can smother and kill your grass, that’s not 100% true. Fall leaves actually are beneficial to your lawn because they provide a natural form of nutrients that can help assist with improving the health of your lawn. Trees draw up nutrients and minerals from your soil converting them to leaves and branches. Once the leaves fall in Autumn and decompose, all the nutrients are then returned back to the soil. When you rake up all the leaves you are missing out on this natural process. Years of this can cause your soil to lose its fertility and ultimately affect the overall health of your lawn.

WHEN ITS TIME TO REMOVE LEAVES

Even though leaves have proved to have healthy benefits to your lawn there is such thing as too much coverage. Generally, you should manage leaf piles when you can’t see the top half of the grass blades or it covers a third of your lawn. If a frost comes and leaves start falling quickly, don’t panic, you can wait until the lawn is nearly covered before taking action. Don’t allow leaves to obscure grass for more than a few days because excessive piles of leaves on your lawn can cause turf diseases, limited circulation, block sunlight, cause roots to rot from excessive moisture.

DITCH THE RAKE AND LEAF-MULCH INSTEAD

Once your lawn has significant leaf coverage, its best to ditch the rake and bags and mow over leaves to make them smaller and easier to decompose. A good rule of thumb is: after mowing your lawn and breaking down fallen leaves, the more grass you see the faster the leaves will break down. The leaf bits that settle between the grass blades will eventually be broken down by microbes, enhancing your soil by putting nitrogen back into your lawn and reintroducing organic matter that will lead to a healthier, thicker lawn in the spring. If you notice that after mowing, these smaller bits are still piled up, take a rake to evenly disperse bits throughout your yard.

NOTE: Act before rain arrives because soaked leaves will clump in your mower

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.farmanddairy.com/top-stories/leave-autumn-leaves-lawn-healthy-yard-clean-water/218689.html

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/7-lawn-care-myths

http://www.treehugger.com/lawn-garden/skip-rake-and-leave-leaves-healthier-greener-yard.html

Fall Lawn Care Check List

Wed, 05 Oct 2016 04:00:00 GMT

Fall is here and it's time to make the final push in order to fully prepare your lawn for winter dormancy. Complete these easy to use fall lawn care tasks to properly equipped your lawn for the cool winter months to come!

For more information on the check list above, check out these articles:

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Why Winterize Your Lawn

Tue, 04 Oct 2016 04:00:00 GMT

THE IMPORTANCE OF A FALL FERTILIZER APPLICATION

Remember all the time you spent on your lawn this spring and summer; weeding , feeding, treating, watering and mowing ? Now that fall is here don’t let all that hard work go to waste. There is one more step to ensure that your lawn is protected throughout the winter and has the nutrients it needs to start off next spring looking great! Although you may be feeling tired of lawn work, as the professional will tell you, fall is one of the most important fertilizer application times of the year.

WHY SHOULD I "WINTERIZE" MY LAWN?

Fall brings back perfect conditions for your lawn; cooler nights, morning dew, sufficient rainfall. These conditions cause your grass to begin to grow again. Your grass begins to store its nutrients in its roots throughout fall in preparation for winter. A fall feeding enables the plant to store more food for winter and is readily available when warmer temperatures arrive in spring, thus producing a quick spring-greening and thicker lawn growth.

HOW TO "WINTERIZE" YOUR LAWN

1. CONDUCT A SOIL TEST

If you’re unsure if you should apply a fall fertilizer, conduct a soil test to check the amount of potassium (an element essential to fall turf health) in your soil.

NOTE: Cool-Season grasses will always benefit from a fall feeding since it is their peak growing season.

2. KNOW WHAT TYPE OF GRASS YOU HAVE AND WHEN TO APPLY A FALL FERTILIZER

Cool-Season Turf

Grass types such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescue or perennial ryegrass which are most commonly found in northern regions. Cool-season grasses experience their peak growth in fall and respond well to fertilizer. Fall fertilizer applications are best utilized by your lawn and soil when applied throughout Mid-September to Early November.

Warm-Season Turf

Grass types such as Bermuda, centipede, St. Augustine and Zoysia. If you’re located in an area where freezes occur and lawns go dormant during the winter, you shouldn’t fertilize after September 1st (so you don’t fuel new growth that will be damaged by winter freeze). If you’re located in an area where warm-season grass stays green during the winter months, an application of fall fertilizer in the early autumn is recommended.

NOTE: If you are unsure of the type of grass you have, consult a lawn care expert to determine which species is in your yard.

3. PURCHASING THE CORRECT TYPE OF FERTILIZER: FALL FERTILIZER OR FERTILIZER WITH WEED & FEED?

When your lawn begins to grow again in fall, along with new grass growth, a few weeds may appear as well. If this happens, use a Fall Fertilizer with Weed and Feed (See Weeds to Tackle Late Summer and Fall article for more information about pesky weeds common in late summer and fall). If your lawn is weed-free, use a fertilizer meant for fall application. When choosing a lawn care product to winterizer your lawn, make sure that it has extra potash (chemical symbol K means potassium, it’s the “K” in N-P-K) in the blend. Potash/Potassium assists with root development that will strengthen your lawn so that it is prepared to survive the winter season and look great in spring.

4. APPLYING

First, you will need to clear the lawn of all leaves, either by leaf-mulching or by raking and bagging. Then use a lawn spreader to apply your fall fertilizer application. Refer to label instructions to determine timing, amount and application rate of the product you purchased.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.groundsguys.com/blog/2014/january/feed-your-lawn-with-proper-fertilization/

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/winterizing-your-lawn

http://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-winterize-the-grass-in-your-lawn/

http://www.hgtv.com/design/outdoor-design/landscaping-and-hardscaping/lawns/how-to-winterize-your-lawn

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/yard/lawn-care/when-should-i-apply-a-winter-fertilizer-to-my-lawn/#page=0

http://awaytogarden.com/weeds-to-target-late-summer-and-fall/

Making a Difference with One Swing at a Time

Thu, 22 Sep 2016 04:00:00 GMT

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016, Turfcare™ sponsored and participated in the 10th Annual Golf Classic and Benefit for Maria Fareri Children’s Hospital at Westchester Medical Center at the Apawamis Club in Rye, New York.

Turfcare™ showed their support for a great cause by making a generous donation and sponsoring a tee at the event. Proudly representing Turfcare™ on the golf course was (left to right in photo) Mark Austin (V.P. of IT), Kevin Maciak (V.P. of HR), Mark Mangan (C.O.O.) and Kelly Reid (Midwest Regional Sales Manager). A special congratulations to our Turfcare™ team for not only showing their support at the event but also for their success on the golf course by receiving the “Winning Foursome” trophy and the “Longest Drive” (won by Kelly Reid).

Maria Fareri Children’s Hospital embodies the vision of hundreds of parents, medical professionals and community leaders who have a passion for creating a ‘family-centered’ children’s hospital, where parents are not just visitors but parents as well. This hospital provides the most advanced care available, including, unique creative surroundings that aid in the healing process, to more than 20,000 critically ill infants and children. Their superior capabilities and facilities enable them to perform complex life-saving procedures that are not available anywhere else in the Hudson Valley region or Southwestern Connecticut.

Want to learn more? Interested in helping the Maria Fareri Children’s Hospital? Visit http://www.westchestermedicalcenter.com/mfch for more information or help your community grow by making a donation.

http://www.westchestermedicalcenter.com/make-a-difference

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Is Your Soil STARVING Your Lawn from Nutrients?

Thu, 01 Sep 2016 04:00:00 GMT

WHY IS SOIL PH IMPORTANT?

If your soil has an imbalanced pH level you could be limiting nutrient uptake, inhibiting the health of your lawn and wasting fertilizer. Soil pH is the measurement of how acidic or alkaline your soil is. It is measured on a scale from 1-14, 6.8-7.2 being neutral. Anything above 7.2 is considered alkaline, anything below 6.8 is considered acidic. The pH level of your soil determines how easily plants can intake nutrients. Your lawn’s root system needs to absorb important nutrients to stay green, strong, weed free and reach and maintain optimal plant health. If your soil pH is too alkaline or acidic, the nutrients will be locked-up and unavailable for root uptake, which will reduce the health of your plant and the efficiency of the fertilizer you apply.

HOW DO I DETERMINE THE PH LEVEL OF MY SOIL?

Home soil test kits are available at your local lawn care center or have your soil analyzed by a lawn service, a private lab, or your local cooperative extension services, whose tests cost as little as $15 a piece.

HOW DO I CORRECT MY SOIL IF IT IS TOO ALKALINE (7.5-14)?

If your soil is too alkaline, you must add a source of acidity to it. The acidic element most commonly used to balance alkaline soils is Sulfur . Follow the application instructions on the Sulfur label to successfully neutralize your soil pH.

HOW DO I CORRECT MY SOIL IF IT IS TOO ACIDIC (1-6.5)?

If your soil is too acidic, you must introduce alkaline material to your soil. The most suggested alkaline material to add to an acidic soil is calcium. The proper amount of calcium that your soil needs can be found in lime. The higher the calcium percentage in your lime the more affective it will be to balance your pH. Lime will reduce the acid in your soil and balance your soil pH. Follow the application instruction on the lime label for optimal results.

IMPORTANT: Different grass types can tolerate a range of pH levels -- see a grass species pH chart below. Note that some grass species such as centipede prefer a more acidic soil with pH levels around 5.0 - 5.5 considered optimum.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Are you Applying the Right Type of Fertilizer to Your Lawn?

Thu, 01 Sep 2016 04:00:00 GMT

LEARN THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN QUICK AND SLOW RELEASE NITROGEN FERTILIZERS

Fertilizers are used to deliver important nutrients like nitrogen to promote the optimal appearance and health of your lawn. Nitrogen is an essential amino acid, building block for plant proteins and vital to the rate at which photosynthesis occurs. A plant with sufficient nitrogen exhibits healthy growth and develops a deep green color. Choosing the correct type of nitrogen in your fertilizer can affect the look and health of your lawn as well as how often you need to apply. There are two types of nitrogen options available in fertilizers, quick- and slow- release nitrogen. Below are the pros and cons of both to help determine which fertilizer is best for you.

QUICK-RELEASE NITROGEN FERTILIZERS

Quick-release nitrogen in fertilizers makes nitrogen immediately available to your lawn.

PROS

Encourages a rapid recovery from nutrient deficiency.
Immediate results in the lawn growth because it stimulates quick shoot growth and greening.
More affordable than slow-release fertilizer.

CONS

Rapidly deteriorates from the soil by washing out of the root zone with too much rain or irrigation.
Can cause excessive amounts of growth that weaken the health of the plant and leave it more susceptible to insects and diseases.
Last only 2-4 weeks, which results in multiple applications needed throughout the season.
Over application can burn your lawn.
TIP: Do not apply to wet grass or foliage. This will cause burn-like damage to the plant because the fertilizer will dissolve on the plant before reaching the soil. Apply prior to rain or irrigation.

SLOW-RELEASE NITROGEN FERTILIZERS (ALSO KNOWN AS CONTROLLED-RELEASE FERTILIZERS)

As the name alludes, slow-release fertilizers release a steady amount of nitrogen to your lawn over a longer period of time.

PROS

Multiple applications are less needed because it releases slow amounts of nitrogen for several weeks after application.
Provides more uniform grass growth.
Less likely to burn your lawn.
Provides a steady rate of nitrogen that will maintain your lawns health throughout the season.

CONS

Does not provide immediate high rates of nitrogen to aid in quick recovery.
More expensive than Quick-release fertilizers (but may be a less expensive option if less applications are required).

When choosing which type of nitrogen fertilizer is best, it is important to evaluate the current needs of your lawn and the nitrogen release time required. If you have more questions please contact your local distributor or lawn care professional.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.thelawninstitute.org/pages/education/lawn-maintenance/fertilizers-quickrelease-and-slowrelease-nitrogen-whats-the-difference/

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/quickrelease-vs-slowrelease-nitrogen-fertilizers-80766.html

http://www.lawncare.net/slow-vs-quick-release-fertilizer/

Inefficient vs. Efficient Nutrient Uptake

Tue, 30 Aug 2016 04:00:00 GMT

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Lawn Care Tip: How to Mow in the Heat of Summer

Tue, 16 Aug 2016 04:00:00 GMT

During the peak of summer your lawn may suffer from stress from the heat and dry weather. There are a few tips and tricks one should follow in order to maintain a healthy lawn in extreme heat:

REFRAIN FROM CUTTING TOO SHORT

This is crucial for maintaining lawn health from the stress of summer. Turfgrass does better in the high heat of summer if you allow it to grown out a bit. By allowing your lawn to grow out a little you are promoting deeper grass roots that can suck up moisture and shade the soil which minimizes evaporation. If you cut your lawn too short you are reducing grass’s ability to produce the energy needed for growth.

TIP: For mowing in the heat of summer, follow the one-third rule but let your grass grow roughly .5 of an inch higher than the recommended cutting height. Never remove more than one-third of your grass height at one time because this will lead to more stress, potential scalping of the lawn and/or disease. Research the type of grass in your region and follow the chart below to help determine when to mow your summer stressed lawn.
Reminder: allow roughly .5 of an inch more growth to the “Mow when Grass Reaches This Height” section for proper mowing techniques for summer stressed lawns. Example: Kentucky Bluegrass max height before mowing is 3¾ inches, allow it to grow to 4-4¼ inches before mowing.

KEEP BLADES SHARP

This cannot be emphasized enough for a stressed or healthy lawn. Sharp mower blades create a clean cut which allows the plant to heal faster, unlike dull blades, that actually tear the plant’s tissue causing the tips to turn brown. This makes your lawn more susceptible to stress and disease. In the heat of summer, the last thing you want to be doing is compromising your lawn’s health with dull mower blades.

LEAVE CLIPPINGS

Clipping are beneficial to your lawn's health, especially on a stressed lawn because the clippings act as slow-release fertilizers that put nutrients back into your lawn. Aim the clippings towards your lawn and not towards bodies of water, storm drains or streets. Check out “ Mowing Tips: To Bag or Not to Bag? ” on our blog to learn more about what to do with your lawn clippings.

WHEN IN DROUGHT, GROW IT OUT!

If you’re experiencing a drought in your area, you should avoid mowing. Lawns under stress from drought have limited ability to recover from mowing. This can actually damage your lawn more. Try mowing after you water or a rainfall.

NOTE: In order to avoid clumping and clogging your mower deck, don’t mow damp grass. Allow the plants to dry a little before you mow.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://yardcare.toro.com/maintain/how-to-maintain-the-grass-in-extreme-heat/

http://www.consumerreports.org/lawn-mowers-tractors/the-secret-to-cutting-grass/?loginMethod=auto

Should I aerate? Everything You Need To Know About When and Why To Aerate Your Lawn

Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:00:00 GMT

WHAT IS AERATION?

Aeration is a lawn care process that involves perforating the soil with small holes in order to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate built-up grass or lawn thatch, allowing grass roots to grow deeper, producing a stronger lawn. Be sure to fertilize directly before or after to ensure nutrients are available.

DO I NEED TO AERATE?

Here are a few signs/issues to watch for:

Water puddling and taking a long time to drain from your lawn after rain.
Vehicles driving or parking on grass (including mowers) often TIP: Although mowers can cause your lawns soil to compact, try to vary your mowing patterns in order to slow compaction.
Thatch layer being thicker than ½ of an inch.
Heavy foot traffic (pets or children playing, entertaining, etc.)
Noticing thick strands of clover and/or your lawn being thin, patchy or bare.
Heavy clay soil.

When in doubt, you can perform an aeration test to assess soil compaction. Take a screwdriver or pencil and push it into the soil. If it is difficult, you may need to aerate your lawn. If you’re still unsure, take a shovel and sink it into the ground. If your shovel easily sinks half the blade deep, you don’t need to aerate but if you have to push and/or jump on the shovel, you need to aerate.

WHEN TO AERATE?

The timing of aeration is key and is determined by grass and soil type.

HOW TO AERATE Manual Aerator: great for small lawns, uses foot power to plunge hollow cylinders in the soil to punch holes and/or extract cores
Motorized Aerator: good for larger lawns, self-propelled with circular drums with hollowed spikes or cylinders that remove soil plugs. You can rent an aerator or you can see if your riding mower has a spike or core aerator attachment. Also, you can talk to your lawn care professional who may offer this service.
TIP: Leave soil plugs on your lawn to decompose naturally because they contain microorganisms that help digest lawn thatch.

Want to discover important tips on aerating success? Click Here to find out more!

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/maintenance-how-to/browse/aeration-why-how-and-when-to-aerate-your-lawn.html

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/how-to-tell-if-a-lawn-needs-aerating

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/when-to-aerate-your-lawn

http://www.lawndoctor.com/sanantonio-tx/how-know-what-type-grass-you-have/

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/how-to-aerate-a-lawn

Everything You Need to Know to Successfully Aerate Your Lawn

Mon, 01 Aug 2016 04:00:00 GMT

AERATING TIPS FOR SUCCESS

Fertilize and/or reseed prior to aerating because the openings allow nutrients and seeds to penetrate soil better (fertilize or reseed immediately after aerating).
Wait one year before aerating new lawns in order to give it the chance to establish a root system.
Be sure to have your lawn weeds under control before aerating because this process can spread weed seeds and roots. NOTE: Apply pre-emergent herbicides post aeration but do not apply herbicides at the same time of reseeding.
Aerate moist soil, not saturated. The moist soil allows for the lawn aerator to penetrate soil more deeply without clogging the tines. Prior to aerating be sure your lawn absorbs roughly one inch of water ( irrigating or raining for an hour). Irrigate a little extra post aeration, but do not saturate. NOTE: If your soil is hard and very compacted, water for shorter lengths of time several days before aerating.
Never aerate in high heat or drought. This will put more stress on your lawn by allowing the heat to dry out your soil even more.
Know where any sprinkler heads, shallow septic lines, irrigation lines or buried utilities are and mark with something, like a flag, before aeration.
Leave soil plugs on your lawn to decompose naturally because they contain microorganisms that help digest lawn thatch. The next time you mow the plugs should be dry enough that they will break up.
If you have aerated in the last 12 months or have sandy soil, aerate in a single pass following your mowing pattern. If your soil is highly compacted and/or it has been over a year since your last aeration, make two passes with the machine, one following your mowing pattern and the other at an angle to your first (roughly 20-40 holes per square foot).

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/maintenance-how-to/browse/aeration-why-how-and-when-to-aerate-your-lawn.html

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/how-to-tell-if-a-lawn-needs-aerating

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/when-to-aerate-your-lawn

http://www.lawndoctor.com/sanantonio-tx/how-know-what-type-grass-you-have/

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/how-to-aerate-a-lawn

Get the Dirt on Thatch

Mon, 01 Aug 2016 04:00:00 GMT

TIPS FOR IDENTIFYING & MANAGING THATCH

Thatch is a loose, intermingled organic layer of dead and living stems, shoots, and roots. It develops between the area of grass and the soil surface. Thatch is beneficial to your lawn’s health as long as it is not an extensive amount. Healthy thatch should be up to ½ inch thick, anything more means your lawn may have thatch buildup. Buildup begins when your lawn creates organic debris faster than it is broken down. When you have a thatch problem it compromises your lawn health by:

Forming an impermeable layer that prevents fertilizer, water and insect/disease controls to reach the soil.
Promoting a shallow grass root system since grass ends up growing into thatch instead of nutrient rich soil.
Blocking sunlight from lower grass blades.
Harboring a potential disease by holding moisture against grass blades.
Creating an uneven lawn that leads to scalping while mowing.

IDENTIFY WHEN YOU NEED TO DETHATCH

Feel your Lawn. If it feels spongy and is bouncy/springy underfoot, then there may be a thick layer of thatch built-up.
Inspect your Lawn. If you can’t see the soil between the turf crowns and you can’t shove your finger though the visible layer of thatch, then you should consider dethatching your lawn.
Measure the Thatch. Pry up a small section of soil with a shovel and examine the thatch layer directly on top of the soil. If it’s over ¾ of an inch, then it’s time to dethatch.

MANAGING YOUR THATCH PROBLEM

Dethatch. When your lawn has thatch buildup you have three options for removal:

Manually: For small jobs, you can dethatch with a rake (dethatching rakes can be purchased online or at your local home improvement store).
Rent: You can rent a dethatcher (vertical cutter, verticuter or power rake). There are many different models and they can be heavy machines with different settings so be sure to talk to your rental facility for advice.
Hire a Professional: If you think you need to dethatch and/or the project is too large for you to handle, hire a lawn care professional to successfully take care of the thatch problem for you.

Prevent. Follow the four basic techniques of a healthy lawn to prevent a future thatch problem: proper watering, fertilizing, mowing and regular aeration .

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Reference:

http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/thatch

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/how-to-tell-if-your-lawn-needs-dethatching

Does Fertilizer Go Bad?

Mon, 01 Aug 2016 04:00:00 GMT

TIPS TO MANAGE LEFT OVER FERTILIZER AT THE END OF A SEASON

Did you ever wonder “Does fertilizer go bad?”. The general answer is no, fertilizer does not go bad if it is properly stored. Fertilizer is made up of a variety of natural minerals and elements that do not break down over time allowing you to store your unused fertilizer from year to year.

NOTE: Generally, fertilizers with AI’s (active ingredients) found in weed and pest control products have a shelf life of only 1-4 years because a majority of pesticides and herbicides lose their potency over time.Check the product label for details.

Depending on the type of fertilizer (Granular or Liquid) you purchased will determine the life of your product. Granular fertilizer has an extensive life if stored properly. Liquid fertilizers can have a shelf life between 8-10 years if stored properly (refer to expiration date on product label or contact the manufacturer for more details since all products vary).

STORAGE TIPS

Proper storage is key in order to keep fertilizer effective from season to season. Here are a few tips for proper storage:

Store in dry, cool, 100% shaded places
Keep fertilizer in its original bag or liquid container so there is no confusion regarding product type, cautionary concerns or product use.
Close bag securely, wrap in plastic or store in its tightly sealed plastic container to keep moisture out.
Keep off the ground and store in a protected area away from food (i.e. shed, garage)

** When in doubt, refer to product label for proper storage instructions. *

TROUBLESHOOTING

Granular Clumping - You may discover that your lawn fertilizer has formed clumps after storage. Don’t be alarmed, this is natural tendency and it does not mean your fertilizer has lost its effectiveness. In humid conditions, fertilizer will absorb moisture from the air causing its particles to bond together, i.e. clumps. If you do find that your fertilizer has clumped, just break up the clumps before using it again.

TIP: If you know you live in an area of high humidity, store fertilizer by closing the bag and putting it in a sealed plastic container.

Sediments in Liquid - Because of the way liquid fertilizer is created, the solids may settle to the bottom over time so be sure to shake/agitate the bottle prior to use for the new season.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/lawn-fertilizer-lose-its-effectiveness-stored-80419.html

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/liquid-fertilizer-bad-84054.html

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/yard/lawn-care/does-fertilizer-go-bad/#page=0

http://www.ehow.com/info_8724167_fertilizer-expire.html

Why is my Lawn Brown?

Thu, 30 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

Typically, grass turns brown when it's roots are too short to properly grab nutrients or water from soil or, the soil does not contain enough nutrients or water. There are multiple reasons why your lawn can be turning brown. Here are 7 common reasons why your lawn is turning brown and ways to treat them:

DROUGHT/HEAT

Turf goes dormant during periods of extreme heat and low rain/water. This is completely normal and grass will turn green on its own once the temperature drops and rain resumes. Before treating a lawn due to drought, determine if drought is leading to your brown grass by “watching for prematurely dropping trees that are folded up like they’re praying for rain (says TV host Jason Cameron, a partner with TruGreen lawn care service).” To maintain a drought-dormant lawn, apply ½ inch of water every two-three weeks during the time of the drought. If you’re interested in giving your lawn a pick me up during a drought, apply 1 inch of water weekly (every 6-7 days) to green it up.

Note: An inch of water is about 1 hours of sprinkler use.

WEEDS

Weeds are a culprit to brown lawns that provide competition for water and nutrients. If your lawn is overrun by common weeds and turning your grass brown, apply a pre-emergent herbicide (applied before weeds appear) in spring to prevent germination.

**Keep Updated by checking out our Weed of the Week articles on ways to prevent specific common weeds**

DISEASE

Your lawn could have a disease which is causing your grass turn brown. If you’re noticing that your lawn is covered by black, brown, red or white substances, then your lawn may be diseased. This problem should be diagnosed and treated by a lawn care specialist. Fortunately, by raising a healthy lawn through proper lawn care, such as sufficient watering in the early mornings, regular mowing, lawn aeration, and thatch management, you are more likely to prevent a lawn disease.

GRUBS

Lawn grubs , often referred to as white grubs are the soil-inhabiting, larva of beetles including: Japanese beetles or European chafers or June “bugs” beetles. These immature organisms feed on grass roots as well as other organic substance in soil, causing turf to turn brown and die. To figure out if grubs are infesting your lawn, take samples from multiple spots by cutting away one square-foot piece of turf and inspecting the roots for grubs every 2 inches. To control, let your lawn dry out before watering and depending on the stage of the infestation, apply insecticide products.

WATERING TOO MUCH

Even in the heat of summer, you should not water grass every day. Overwatering causes grass to have a short root system which makes it more susceptible to insect infestation, weeds and disease. Instead of little drinks daily, give your lawn a drink once a week to establish a deeper root system.

DOGS

Who doesn’t love these lovable, furry creatures but believe it or not your loving pet can cause brown patches in your lawn. Urine contain salts and acid that can lead to turf discoloration. The constant heavy traffic of your pet can cause wear and tear on your lawn as well. Unfortunately, there is not an effective product that can help your lawn from your loving animal but we do have a few suggestions: Water down the area where your animal recently urinated to dilute the salt and acid; create a separate area of the lawn where your animal can run, play and do their business; or create a mulched area dedicated to dog for doing their business.

DULL MOWER BLADES

Something as simple as sharpening your mower blades can prevent your lawn from turning brown. Dull mower blades will cause grass to tear instead of providing a clean cut. This causes grass bruising. Luckily, this reason for grass turning brown is easy to identify. Look at your lawns grass tips to determine if it has a clean, straight edge or if it has a torn, jagged edge. If grass tips are clean and straight, then dull mower blades are not the culprit to your brown lawn, but if you notice the torn, jagged edges, it is time to sharpen or replace your mower blades.

According to Kevin Doerfler of Grass Seed USA, some treatment and prevention tips that will help your lawn stay green are:

Water in the early mornings to combat fungal disease. Water deeply to support a strong grass root system.
Raise mowing height to 3 or more inches to encourage taller grass that will shade roots and reduce water loss from evaporation.
Perform a soil test to determine improvements your lawn may need. Soil tests can be purchased form your local garden center, distributor or samples can be taken to your local extensions office.
Adopt a healthy lawn care program, including fertilizing in spring, summer and fall.
If necessary, call a professional lawn expert to help diagnose the problem for your brown lawn. Visit your local distributor who can help tailor a treatment method suitable for your lawn.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.houselogic.com/by-room/yard-patio/brown-grass/

http://www.bobvila.com/slideshow/11-ways-you-re-accidentally-ruining-your-lawn-50036

Weed of the Week: Ground Ivy

Tue, 21 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Ground ivy is a common broadleaf perennial weed that goes by many names including: Creeping Charlie and Creeping Ivy. This weed can range from 4 inches tall to several inches wide.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Ground ivy is a low vine-type weed with scalloped leaves that are green but can occasionally appear to have a purple tint to them. This weed forms dense mats of ground coverage that creeps into moist, shady areas of your lawns and gardens. Clusters of purple flowers appear in late spring.

WHERE IT GROWS

This weed grows in mainly moist, shady lawns and gardens but can tolerate sunlit areas.

GROWING SEASON

Ground ivy grows primarily in spring and fall but is not restricted to just those seasons; it can be found growing throughout the summer as well.

HOW TO MANAGE

Use a post-emergence herbicide (Herbicide that can be applied today) and/or, pull, till or hoe them out. Refer to the label for specific information on proper product use before applying a post-emergent herbicide. Decrease shade and soil moisture to encourage dense turf grass and discourage ground ivy. Mulching can also help prevent plantain growth in gardens. Overall, the best prevention method for ground ivy and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization, soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

FUN FACTS

At one point, ground ivy was used as a flavoring and clearing agent in brewing beer before the Germans introduced hops in the 8th Century. Ground ivy remained popular until around the 17th century because many people believed hops were dangerous to their health.
Ground ivy was not native to North America; it was brought over to the New World by the early English settlers as part of their standard household herbs. They used this weed for treating medical conditions such as: lung and kidney diseases, asthma, headaches, jaundice, hypochondria, and “monomania” (a condition of “partial insanity”).

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/pests/insects-diseases-weeds/types-of-weeds/#page=11

http://www.tennesseeturfgrassweeds.org/Lists/Fact%20Sheets/Attachments/24/W266updated2015.pdf

http://journaltimes.com/lifestyles/columnist/patti/the-root-of-it-all-get-that-dreaded-creeping-charlie/article_d55d5c10-67e3-11e1-a3a9-0019bb2963f4.html

http://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_glhe2.pdf

Weed of the Week: Broadleaf Plantain

Wed, 15 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Plantain is a common broadleaf perennial weed. This weed can range from 8 inches tall to 12 inches wide. Plantain has a root system that can penetrate the top 18 inches of soil.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

Plantain has broad, egg-shaped, flat leaves with wavy margins of three or more, defined fibrous parallel veins that form a rosette (a growth resembling a rose). Greenish-yellowish flowers grow within the rosettes that have thin cylinder shaped spikes on the upper end of the stalks.

NOTE: A healthy plant can produce roughly 14,000 or more seeds per year!

WHERE IT GROWS

This weed grows in well irrigated lawns and gardens in mainly sunlit areas but can tolerate shade.

GROWING SEASON

Plantain seed will germinate at temperatures of 50°F but in heightened temperatures, around 77°F, germination can increase. Seeding stages can last anywhere between 8-15 weeks depending on the temperature.

NOTE: Plantain can pose a year round problem depending on the area, temperature, and type of turf and soil in which you are located.

HOW TO MANAGE

Use a post-emergence herbicide (Herbicide that can be applied today) and/or, pull, till or hoe them out. Aerating turf as well as allowing soil to dry out between waterings will encourage dense grass and plant populations that will shade the soil and discourage weed growth. Mulching can also help prevent plantain growth in gardens. Overall, the best prevention method for broadleaf plantain and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization, soil amendments , proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

Fun Fact: Did you know you can eat plantain? Plantain has a nutty, asparagus-like taste. This weed is loaded with iron and important vitamins and minerals. The leaves are more flavorful when small and tender; larger leaves are more bitter and fibrous but still edible. However, if you would like to eat plantain be sure the weed has never been treated with herbicide or other fertilizers. Fun plantain recipes are available if you search on line.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/pests/insects-diseases-weeds/types-of-weeds/#page=11

http://www.livescience.com/15322-healthiest-backyard-weeds.html

http://www.ediblewildfood.com/broadleaf-plantain.aspx

https://extension.usu.edu/weedguides/files/uploads/Plantaginaceae.pdf

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7478.html

Lawn KILLER BUG! - How to MANAGE A DESTRUCTIVE Grub Invasion!

Wed, 15 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

HOW TO MANAGE A DESTRUCTIVE GRUB INVASION

SIGNS YOUR LAWN IS INFECTED

Keep a lookout for some early symptoms that your lawn is grub infected. A few signs to look for include:

Gradual thinning and yellowing/browning of the grass.
Irregularly shaped dead patches that develop in well-irrigated lawns during the summer or early fall.
Sponginess of turf can be a first clue that grubs are infesting your lawn, can sometimes be noticed before yellow-brown patches appear.
Increased presence of skunks, moles, raccoons and flocks of blackbirds can indicate grub infestation since they feed on grubs. (These varmints eat earthworms as well so be sure to perform a grub tests or get sampling to make sure grubs are present prior to pursuing any management method.)
TIP: If you experienced grub problems in previous years, it’s likely adult beetles will return and re-infest the same areas. If you are noticing large beetle activity in the months of June and July, it’s probable you will experience grubs later that summer.

HOW TO TEST AND/OR SAMPLE FOR GRUBS

You can test for grubs by lifting up a piece of turf and examining if it has little to no roots. If you have sod, a heavily infested area will pull loose from the ground as if you were lifting up carpet.

For sampling, one should take samples from multiple spots by cutting away one square-foot piece of turf and inspecting the roots for grubs every 2 inches. Sampling should be done during early infestation states (mid-July to mid-August). The challenge with sampling during the early stages is grubs will be small and difficult to find since significant damage has not occurred yet. It is common to have some grubs within lawns but if an average of eight or more grubs per sample appears, it’s an indication of an infestation.

GRUB TREATMENT OPTIONS

There are two strategies for controlling grubs: Curative and Preventive. TIMING IS KEY for each of these methods! Knowing scarab beetles life cycles will help you identify the best treatment method.

Preventive (Pre-Emergent): This can be applied before a grub problem develops. Timing is more lenient for application; it can be applied as early as May to mid-July. Be sure to read instructions on the back of the insecticide you purchased for more information about application and timing.

Curative (Post-Emergent): Immature grubs are vulnerable to insecticides; apply treatment when grubs are feeding in mid-to late summer and early fall. This treatment should be applied when a grub problem is currently present. Be sure to read instructions on the back of the insecticide you purchased for more information about application and timing.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/articles/dealing-with-lawn-grubs

https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ent10

Want to Give Your Lawn a Summer Treatment? Lime It!

Tue, 14 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

WHAT IS LIME?

Lime is a soil amendment made up of limestone, which is a natural and high source of calcium.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF LIMING YOUR LAWN?

Lime corrects acidic soils by increasing pH levels, restores damage, and returns the nutrients calcium and magnesium to the soil. Calcium and magnesium are important nutrients that strengthen turf against environmental stresses, heat, dry weather and foot traffic.

TIP! Balanced soil pH leads to optimum turf growth and reduces conditions that favor moss, bare spots and certain weed species.

WHY APPLY LIME?

When a lawn has patchy spots, is weedy and/or turning yellow, it can be a key sign that your soil could be too acidic or is calcium and magnesium deficient. Lime can also be applied to give your lawn a healthy boost and protect it from environmental stresses. A pH test is recommended and can be purchased form your local garden center or distributor. Check with your county cooperative extension service to see if they offer free testing!

WHEN TO APPLY LIME?

Lime can be applied anytime but recommended application is late spring and/or fall. It can be a great alternative to nutrient applications in the summer and can assist with protecting your lawn against harsh elements like heat and drought. Lime can also be effectively applied in the fall since cooler temperatures and rain help work it into the soil. Lime also works great in preparation for new grass seed or if the lawn has patchy spots, is weedy and/or is turning yellow.

WHAT TYPE OF LIME TO APPLY?

The most common lime products used on lawns are calcitic limestone (containing finely ground pure calcium carbonate) and dolomitic lime. Enhanced Lime products are also available which have added ingredients that increase the effects of lime and improve product benefits.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/lime-grass-57266.html

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/lawn-care/lgen/tips-to-lime-your-lawn.htm

http://www.noble.org/ag/soils/limingquestions/

Weed of the Week: Dandelion

Tue, 07 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

TYPE

Dandelion is a well-known, pesky broadleaf perennial weed that can push out plants and grass all while sucking nutrients and sapping water from the surrounding area. This weed can range from 12 inches tall to 6-16 inches wide and has a fleshy taproot that can extend up to 3 feet deep. A single plant produces about 12,000-15,000 seeds that can be dispersed for miles, making it a difficult weed to manage !

HOW TO IDENTIFY

A dandelion has yellow flowers that mature into puffballs. This common lawn weed has deeply notched leaves and has a strong taproot (a straight tapering root growing vertically downward and forming the center from which subsidiary rootlets spring).

WHERE IT GROWS

This weed grows in lawns and gardens in mainly sunlit areas.

GROWING SEASON

May-October. Seed germination occurs throughout the growing season at or near the soil surface. Seeds germinate at soil temperatures of 50°F but around 77°F, germination can increase. The seedling stage can last 8-15 weeks depending on growing conditions and soil temperature. Although dandelion will slow its growth during cooler seasons, it has the ability to survive cold weather.

HOW TO MANAGE

Use a post-emergence herbicide (Herbicide that can be applied today) and/or, dig them out by hand and shovel (remember taproots run deep and if not removed all the way, dandelions will return). Mulching can also help prevent dandelion growth in garden. Unfortunately, because dandelion seeds can travel miles through the wind, permanent removal of it is nearly impossible so all approaches of removal must be repeated yearly.

NOTE: It is important to prevent the weed from maturing to seed (white puffballs). Once the puffball appears the number of dandelions in your yard will multiply when the seeds are dispersed. Overall, the best prevention method for dandelion and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization, soil amendments, proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

If all else fails, pick yourself one of the white feathery dandelions and give it a good hard breath and wish those pesky dandelions away!

(Turfcare is not responsible for the results if this method is chosen.)

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.brilliantlawns.co.uk/lawn-weeds.html

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/pests/insects-diseases-weeds/types-of-weeds/#page=2

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/weeds/dandelion-control.htm

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7469.html

https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/dandelion

Lawn Care Tip: To Bag or Not to Bag?

Tue, 07 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

Even though bagging grass clippings after mowing has it aesthetic benefits to presenting a well-manicured lawn, not bagging has its perks as well!

Besides saving you time and cost on refuse bags, not bagging can be good for the environment and the health of your lawn! Grass clippings and yard waste are approximately 20% of the volume in our nation's landfills. You can help reduce this amount by leaving the grass clippings on your lawn after you mow. Grass clippings left on the lawn will also decompose and feed nutrients back into your lawn. To reduce the look of large grass clumps and to speed up the decomposing process, smaller grass clippings are suggested and can be accomplished by increasing mowing height and/or mowing frequency.

To learn more about the benefits of not bagging visit:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/lawns/lawn-clipping-management/

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Turf Care Supply Corp. Recognized by Community

Mon, 06 Jun 2016 04:00:00 GMT

CITY SHOWS APPRECIATION FOR TURFCARE'S CONTRIBUTION TO THE COMMUNITY

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016, the City of Brunswick, Ohio presented a Proclamation of Recognition to Turf Care Supply Corp. for their many years of community commitment and contribution. Brunswick wanted to show their appreciation to Turf Care Supply for supporting the local community, contributing to revenue, and being one of the largest local employers. Turf Care Supply's corporate office has been located in Brunswick, Ohio at the Pearl Rd. location since 2005 and has three Manufacturing facilities in other locations in the United States. Turf Care Supply prides itself on manufacturing quality american made products, bringing jobs to the community and helping support the local and national economy. County Commissioner, Tim Smith, City of Brunswick Mayor, Ron Falconi and building owner, Bob Knight visited TurfCare to presented C.E.O, William Milowitz; C.F.O., Jeffrey Bailey and C.O.O., Mark Mangan the Proclamation of Community Commitment.

A special thank you to the Brunswick Community for this acknowledgment for our community support.

Pictured: C.F.O. Jeffrey Bailey; C.E.O. William Milowitz; City of Brunswick Mayor, Ron Falconi; Building Owner, Bob Knight; Country Commissioner, Tim Smith. Not Pictured: C.O.O. Mark Mangan.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Weed of the Week: White Clover

Wed, 01 Jun 2016 15:28:00 GMT

TYPE

Broadleaf perennial weed, grows low to the ground and has a size range from 8-10 inches tall to 12 inches wide.

HOW TO IDENTIFY

White clover has white, spiky flower clusters with brown-green centers that are framed by three-lobe clover shaped leaves (...or four leaves if you’re LUCKY enough to find one!).

WHERE IT GROWS
In areas of sunlight to partial shade. Typically found in sparse lawns where the competition of grass is weak and nitrogen is low.

GROWING SEASON

Months of June through September.

HOW TO MANAGE

Use a post-emergence herbicide and/or, pull out by hand. If the post-emergence herbicide method is chosen, read the back of the label to make sure clover is listed under weeds treated. Be sure to apply on a cloudless and windless day (read instructions on the back of the herbicide you purchased for more information about application). If the hand pulling method is chosen, be sure to pull out as much of the white clovers roots as possible in order to prevent future growth. Since this weed often grows in clumps, hand pulling white clover can be easy and effective. Mulching can help prevent white clover growth in gardens as well. Overall, the best prevention method for white clover and any invasive weed is to maintain healthy, dense turf with a strong root system by adopting a regular lawn care routine including fertilization, soil amendments, proper mowing and watering as well as aeration and thatch management practices.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

http://www.brilliantlawns.co.uk/lawn-weeds.html

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/weeds/getting-rid-white-clover.htm

Photographs:

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/pests/insects-diseases-weeds/types-of-weeds/#page=7

Why Buy "Made in the USA" Products?

Mon, 30 May 2016 04:00:00 GMT

Turf Care Supply Corp. is a proud Manufacturer of American made products. We have three plant locations and a corporate office all located in the United States. We source predominantly American/domestic materials with few foreign components, hire American transportation services and provide jobs for a diverse community of Americans. We are dedicated to keeping our communities strong by continuing to manufacture quality products right here in the USA.

TOP 5 REASONS TO BUY "MADE IN USA" PRODUCTS:

5. Support the Local Community and Economy

Turf Care Supply Corp. does its part to support its community and the United States economy by contracting local trade and businesses to service its facilities and hiring American freight companies to transport their products.

Turf Care Supply Corp. also donates tens of thousands to local charities including Operation Finally Home, and is a passionate supporter of the United States veterans. TurfCare currently employs several United States veterans of which they are very proud to call a part of their team.

4. Make Safety a Priority

TurfCare values American safety standards so that’s why we inspect and test our products to produce quality products safe for all consumers. Turf Care Supply meets or exceeds EPA guidelines regarding manufacturing clean out specifications for all Active Ingredient changeovers. We also meet or exceed FIFRA (Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA) and Federal Facilities)requirements.

3. Create and Provide Jobs

With our three manufacturing facilities and corporate office all located in the U.S. (Massachusetts, Ohio, and Florida), TurfCare helps provide numerous jobs right here in the states. Not only do we create jobs directly onsite but we utilize local and national freight carriers and hire outside service professionals which helps support employment in other American companies as well.

2. Protect our Environment

We strive to reduce our carbon footprint by not outsourcing our manufacturing overseas. This cuts down on our petroleum usage and emissions because we’re only shipping within the states.

1. Promotes Safe and Fair Working Conditions

TurfCare supports American workers by observing child labor laws and maintaining safe working conditions. We choose to not outsource overseas because there are little to no regulations on working conditions that can result in brutal working environments (child labor, long hours, forced labor, etc.). Being America made ensures safe working conditions for all our TurfCare employees.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

The results are in ...and they are PHENOMENAL!

Wed, 13 Apr 2016 04:00:00 GMT

ENHANCED SOIL AMENDMENTS PROVIDING INCREDIBLE RESULTS TO USERS

You may have heard the name AMP-XC™ come up a few times in the turf world this year, and for good reason. Last year TurfCare™ released a new line of soil amendments (Calcitic Lime and Gypsum) enhanced by its new technology, AMP-XC™ and the buzz about its amazing results is still spreading. AMP-XC™ is an all natural nutritional enhancer, specifically a very scientific, complex and effective combination of proteins and amino acids that increases nutrient uptake and creates healthier and stronger turf. After it hit the market (and the soil) last year, its benefits have come true! AMP-XC™ has been proving some seriously huge improvements on turf and endusers are still singing its praises... to see some lab testing and application results, check out the info below!

ENHANCED SOIL AMENDMENTS PROVIDING INCREDIBLE RESULTS TO USERS

Check out the product specs, choose from the AMP-XC™ Soil Amendment product you're interested in here:

Calcitic Limestone (Hi-Cal Lime) Powered by AMP-XC™
Gypsum Powered by AMP-XC™

APPLICATION RESULTS

Photos taken 3 weeks after the application of Hi-Cal Lime powered by AMP-XC™

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Turf Care Supply - TurfReport Blog

Turf Care Supply, LLC is excited to join the Spring Valley USA team, an affiliate of Interoceanic Corporation (IOC), strengthening our organization and enhancing our ability to serve our customers.

The Hidden Cost of Filler: How to Maximize ROI with Zero-Filler Fertilizers

Turf Care and Beaty Fertilizer Unite for Growth, Innovation, and Increased Value to Customers

Grub Management: Understanding Life Cycles and Optimal Treatment Timing

Platte River Equity - Press Release: Turf Care Supply, LLC Acquires Agri-Nutrients, Inc.

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply, LLC Acquires Agri-Nutrients, Inc.

Turf Care Supply Goes Electric

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit Turf Care’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turf Care products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Tips for Safely Handling, Mixing and Storing Fertilizers & Pesticides

For professional fertilizers, control fertilizers with insecticide or herbicide, and soil amendments , please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Don’t Get ‘Burned’ by Poor Fertilizer Application Timing This Summer

Introduction

For biologicals or fertilizers enhanced with biologicals including humic and AMP-XC™ products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Photos:

How To Protect and Restore your Turfgrass from Summer Stress

Introduction

For professional fertilizers, soil amendments or biologicals like AMP-XC , humic or sea kelp products, visit Turf Care Supply’s online Product Catalog . ﻿

References:

Photos:

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply, LLC Announces New Chief Financial Officer

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply Promotes Mark Mangan to President

Enhanced Efficiency Fertilizers (EEFs): The Key to Maximizing Turf Health, Sustainability, and Your Return on Investment (ROI)

Enhanced efficiency fertilizers (EEFs), just what are they?

Biologicals and their Benefits to Turf and Soil Health

WHAT ARE BIOLOGICALS?

For biologicals or fertilizers enhanced with biologicals including humic and AMP-XC™ products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

Photos:

Prostrate Knotweed - How to control this invasive turfgrass predator

DESCRIPTION

For professional fertilizers with herbicides to prevent and control weeds, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

References:

Photos:

ANNOUNCEMENT: Turf Care Supply Corp. is Granted Exclusive Licensing Agreement

Koch Turf And Ornamental and Turf Care Supply Corp. Reach Exclusive Licensing Agreement

How to Restore and Prevent Soil Compaction

#TurfKiller - Ticks

Learn the Dangers of Ticks and How to Protect your TURF

How to Read and Interpret a Soil Test

How to Read and Interpret A Soil Test: A Field Service Manual for Growing Healthy, Vibrant Turfgrass (Volume 1)

What's the Damage: Pythium Root Rot

For professional fertilizers, slow-release fertilizers and soil amendments, including AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

#TurfKiller - Wild Parsnips

What's the Damage? Dollar Spot

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

﻿ For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Calibrate Your Spreader

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

#TurfKiller - Mole Cricket

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

#TurfTech - What are the benefits of Nitrogen Inhibitors?

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weeds - Cogongrass

For more information on our Combo Herbicides , Click Here .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

2019 GIE EXPO - TurfCare Event Schedule - Booth #21104

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Behind the Scenes Interview with Nicole Gerome

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weeds - Bindweed

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

What's the Damage? - Chinch Bugs

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weed - Spotted Spurge

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

Turfgrass's Least WANTED Weed - Puncture Vine

For more information on our Combo Herbicides, Click Here .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

JOE KNOWS! Cation Exchange Capacity - What Is CEC and How Does It Impact Soil Fertility?

For professional fertilizers, soil amendments or biologicals like AMP-XC , humic or sea kelp products, visit Turf Care Supply’s online Product Catalog .

For green industry professionals or others interested in ordering Turfcare products, please contact our Customer Service to find a distributor near you.

For professional fertilizers, humic and AMP-XC™ enriched products available, please visit TurfCare’s online Product Catalog .